city trip – Roaming About

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Valparaiso in Chile – A Colorful Day Trip from Santiago

I had it all figured out: I’d walk to the closest metro station from our wonderful free camping spot in Santiago, ride the line to the bus station, take a two-hour bus trip west to Valparaiso, explore the town during the day, and return home the same way.

Valparaiso in Chile

Valparaiso and Santiago de Chile

Then, our friends Abigail, Richie, and Zoe from Meat Around The World were interested in joining me. Great! Last minute, we realized that if we rented a car for the day, Mark and Maya would be able to come as well, plus this would give everyone more freedom and comfort than a return journey by public transportation.

Part of our group in Valparaiso
(Photo courtesy of Richie Gubler)

The reason we didn’t want to take our own campers was the bad reputation Valparaiso has regarding petty crime, car beak-ins, and tire slashings of foreign-plated vehicles. All of us had just installed new tires in Santiago, so now was definitely not a good time to take extra risks. There certainly is a grimy side to this port city.

Screenshot of Valparaiso in iOverlander – all the red and white warning signs mark robberies, break-ins, or tire slashings!

After a late start, a two-hour drive on fantastic toll roads, and finding a safe and covered parking spot for the rental car, the six of us set off on foot to discover the colors, murals, and old ascensores (elevators) of Valparaiso during the afternoon. Here is a photo gallery of our day as full-blown tourists.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Pastel-colored row houses

View from Cerro Concepcion

Look over the harbor of Valparaiso

A stately hotel on top of the hill

Colorful alley on Cerro Concepcion

Murals abound in alleys and streets

Girls will be girls – Zoe easily makes friends everywhere she goes.

A stand-off between Maya and a cat

A street on Cerro Alegro

Fountain on the main square, Plaza Sotomayor

Armada de Chile building

Scene along the busy downtown of Valparaiso

Church

Painted main street

Walking near the waterfront in Valparaiso

Another cool mural in downtown

Approaching our first elevator of the day

The Espiritu Santo elevator was built in 1911

The two cabins operate via steel cables

View from our glass-walled elevator

A Surprising Side Trip to Santiago, the Capital of Chile

May 1, 2024 / Liesbet / 35 Comments

As overlanders, Mark and I are not city people. Being camped in nature without any human presence or noises is our happy place. Yet, the three of us spent a full two weeks in Santiago de Chile, a capital city of 7 million! This was our all-time “stationary” boondocking record after a year and a half in South America. Jardin, Colombia, is now the runner-up at nine nights. What happened?

Country of Chile with its capital, Santiago

Location of Santiago de Chile

Well, this lifestyle is full of surprises. Bad ones and good ones. It had been a while since fate smiled down upon us, but Santiago – which is expensive and not even an interesting tourist destination – ticked some of our required boxes. With ease. We were quite happy there. Read on to learn why…

Group shot in the park
(Photo courtesy of Richie Gubler)

Why back to Chile?

If you’ve been following our blog, you might have noticed that some hardships were encountered in Northern Argentina. Nothing disastrous, really, but after getting tired of similar issues in Peru and Bolivia, mostly regarding loose, aggressive dogs, dusty and dirty surroundings, and third-world living conditions, we had hoped for a reprieve of those in Argentina, especially after finding cleanliness and modernity in Northern Chile. When not finding that quite yet, we opted to return to Chile for a bit.

Another consideration was Maya’s international health certificate we obtained in Chile, the end of February. It was valid for sixty days, allowing free entries and exits for our dog between Argentina and Chile until the end of April. We figured we’d take advantage of that permit again, three weeks before it expired.

But the most important reason for our little sojourn back into Chile was truck maintenance. Imported parts are much cheaper there than in Argentina, as we realized when buying our first set of two new tires in Iquique a couple of months ago. Unfortunately, we didn’t purchase four at the time.

That being said, we chose Santiago to replace the other two tires, install a new battery, and do another oil change. Yeah, our expense report for April won’t be pretty again…

Our Providencia neighborhood in Santiago by night
(Photo courtesy of Richie Gubler)

Our fantastic camping spot

The biggest surprise that greeted us in Santiago was the place we opted to wild camp at, based on reviews in iOverlander. It was easy to see why every overlander seemed to flock here!

Our camping spot for two weeks!

Lots of company for Thirsty Bella!

Gathering more water in the park (Thank you, John, for the bags!)

Adding four more gallons at a time

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Living Large for Two Days in Quito, Ecuador’s Capital

June 29, 2023 / Liesbet / 38 Comments

After our tour of waterfalls, lakes, and hot springs in Northern Ecuador, Mark, Maya, and I checked out one more campground, a potential refuge for me when my husband left for the US. We enjoyed the company of Fernando and Evelyn and the center of Puembo, so kept it as an option.

Camped on Fernando’s property in Puembo – I don’t mind staying here for 2.5 weeks during Mark’s absence

Doggie cuddles

Cute façade in Puembo

Lunch with Fernando, Evelyn, and daughter S.

A tight squeeze to enter and exit the property – we did scrape the metal gate on the driver’s side due to the the slope of the driveway…

As a matter of fact, our two-day trip into Quito was squeezed between “skinny” campground stays. I wanted to get my bearings at Hostal Colibri, which sounded promising in iOverlander at only 10 minutes from the aeropuerto. But this meant planes landed over our heads, similar to our Point Loma experience on a three-month house sit stint in San Diego, California. Because of that fact – and the price – we ruled this option out!

Parked on the soccer field in this tight and small “overlanding” place – we’d have to move over the weekend.

Landing plane above our heads

Conversations cease each time a plane lands nearby

First glimpse of another snow-covered volcano, near Quito

Hostal Colibri also has a very narrow driveway, with low-hanging branches and wires…

No way, Mark and I were going to take our “massive” truck camper Thirsty Bella into the center of Quito. Instead, we stored it at a campground under construction, with an amazing view over the city. We paid $8 to leave our home on wheels there, safe and sound. Staying here as campers would set us back way too much money ($10 per person, officially), so we didn’t even consider it.

More view over Quito from Andy’s place

View over Quito from Andy’s place

Taking a cab into the historic center

Why Quito?

There was no doubt that we wanted to visit the historical center of Quito one day, without driving there. When we learned that our motorcycle friends Katherine and Brandon were leaving their vehicles near the border in Colombia and flying out of Ecuador’s capital for a summer stint in the US, the deal was sealed. We would spend their last two nights on the continent together and split an Airbnb.

Four friends reunited at the Airbnb in Quito

Our Airbnb

Well, what can I say? Mark and I did try to find a more modest apartment to rent for those two nights, but they were either more expensive or in an undesirable location. So, we ended up with an entire, 170-year-old house with three floors, funky layout and colors, and ample space. One of Ecuador’s presidents lived here in the 1930s. Once we didn’t get lost anymore, we enjoyed the rooms and courtyards.

Entrance and hallway of this ex-hotel

Cute courtyard

Our Airbnb with three floors

Living area near one of the bedrooms

One of the two bedrooms we had access to

Easy to get lost

Dining room

View over the historic center of Quito from the Airbnb – towards Panecillo Hill

View of our street towards the basilica

Living room area downstairs

In the courtyard

A historic house in the historic center

The historic center

Five Things to Do in Loreto, Baja California, Mexico

February 16, 2022 / Liesbet / 47 Comments

Mark, Maya, and I visited Loreto for a few days last year, in our campervan Zesty. It was pretty much our most southern stop on the peninsula during a two-month Baja California sojourn. We spent most of that time on the beaches of Bahia Concepcion and in Mulege, a town we liked better than Loreto. I wrote about that “comparison” here.

Every city in Baja California has a statue of their name in colorful letters.

When it became clear and imminent for Mark to fly back to Massachusetts last month, we decided Loreto would be the best, most convenient, and cheapest place for Maya and me to await his return. We managed to snag a “dry camping” spot at Rivera del Mer RV Park ($5/person/night), which has splendid bathroom and laundry facilities.

T&T at Rivera del Mar RV park this year

Zesty parked at Rivera del Mar RV park last year (spring 2021) – nobody else was around

In perspective: T&T parked in the corner of the tight “dry camping” area

Vendors with fresh tortillas and other goodies pass right by the gate and the center of town is a short walk away. Unless you have a dog. That requires a detour to avoid all the barking, aggressive, local canines guarding their properties.

Lunch on fresh corn tortillas, bought from a passing vendor

(As always, hover over or click on the photos to read their captions.)

Here are my five highlights of Loreto, which grew on me when I camped there in T&T the last twelve days of January.

Seal on the pedestrian walkway in town

How to Visit Chicago for Free (in a Small Camper) – Skylines & Social Times

October 20, 2021 / Liesbet / 61 Comments

After New York’s natural beauty, more wonder – of a very different kind – befell me when Mark, Maya, and I approached the skyline of Chicago, Illinois. Yes, I had set foot upon its grounds twice before. Once on a wintry layover from Belgium, never venturing further than a hotel room after missing my connecting flight, and once a couple of years ago, when we swung by our friends Keith and Kavita’s home on the outskirts of the city. But I had never witnessed its majestic architectural beauty, strolled its waterfront, or parked in its quirky neighborhoods.

Chicago skyline

When our long-anticipated departure from Newburyport, Massachusetts, approached, Mark and I had to pick a route, or, at the very least, a first destination. We prefer a northern track across the United States for its scenic appeal, but we hate cold weather. Everything was dependent on when exactly we could start our journey. Luckily, that happened in mid-September and not October like last year, when a southern approach was required. So, we stated, “As long as the weather holds, we will stick to a northern course.” As I write this, we still haven’t made any southward progress! Soon…

Our goal was Chicago, a city I had heard a lot of positives about but never visited, and a place where three sets of friends would be located at the end of September… Our trio stayed in the city for four nights and had a jolly good time, without spending a dime!* ????

(Click on the photos or hover over them to read the captions in galleries.)

Approaching Chicago

Big cities mean lots of traffic…

Six tips for a free “long weekend” in Chi Town:

1. Stick to outdoor sights and activities

We easily filled a few days by checking out Lake Michigan – with a long waterfront bike/walking trail – and several areas in downtown. The first day, we walked all the way from Lincoln Park to Navy Pier and returned via skyscraper heaven.