El Trampolin de La Muerte (the Trampoline of Death) in Southern Colombia connects the city of Mocoa with the town of San Francisco.
Before we even reached this notorious route, we had to deal with bad roads, crazy drivers, more landslides…
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
…and one other giant obstacle: a road block with miles of backed-up traffic that had been there for days.
After waiting in a fuel station for five hours, one of the protesters took pity on us and guided us through the blockade. It was a slightly unnerving but peaceful experience.
This edited video from our dashcam gives you a good idea of the event:
We managed to reach our intended camping spot for the night – driving in the dark once again to get there – and had an early start the following morning, only to be stopped by another landslide before even getting onto the Trampoline. People had left their cars behind in line overnight!
Eventually, only after another hour of waiting, we started this adventure. The good thing? We could follow the herd and as long as we kept up (which lasted about ten minutes), cars coming from the other side would have to let us all pass.
The Trampoline of Death is a narrow, windy, bumpy, and sometimes steep dirt road with river crossings, vertical cliffs, and missing guardrails. Semis are not allowed but buses and ‘one-body” trucks are, and traffic goes in both directions. Luckily, there are plenty of pull-outs and most drivers seemed respectful. The scenery is jaw dropping, but it is often rainy and misty, so our views were limited.
Enjoy the ride…
Sketchy part of the road
Wide area to pull over
Water coming from everywhere!
Thirsty Bella on the Trampoline of Death
Pulling over for a photo
Losing our visibility
The road behind us
After this adventure, we headed towards the western border with Ecuador for a few more sights, one of which was more than worth this detour!
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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June 2, 2023 at 15:54
That was nice to be escorted through the blockade, Liesbet. When I saw the word Mocoa, it triggered a memory….looked it up on google translate and viola, it means “runny nose!” You were indeed in the runny nose of the Trampoline of Death! What a ride you endured, but the scenery sure is spectacular!
June 2, 2023 at 16:24
Ha! Thanks for the translation, Terri. I had no idea that “mocoa” meant runny nose. I’ll have to remember that one! The Trampoline of Death was a fun ride. Not as scary as was portrayed, so that was a good thing! 🙂
June 2, 2023 at 15:58
So did you enjoy the ride? I know it must have been scary but I love this sort of thing – going places where other people don’t, experiencing amazing scenery in the middle of nowhere. The whole experience seems amazing.
Glad the death part of the trampolin of death didn’t live up to its name even if the trampolin part did.
And how great that those guys led you through the road block. I learned a new word this past week and taught it to Greg one of the many times traffic backed up on the highway yesterday- embotellamiento! Traffic jam!
June 2, 2023 at 16:29
Hi Duwan,
This was certainly an off-the-beaten-track route, one that Mark initially vetoed. But, the logistics and directions made more sense this way, so I gathered blog posts, asked questions on forums, and collected research that somewhat convinced us to go this route. The alternative was longer, as bad of a road, and because of a major landslide, we would need to follow one-way procedures on different days – information and schedules we could not find or confirm.
And, yes, we enjoyed the ride. And bounced up and down a lot! 🙂
I love your new word – embotellamiento – and should remember it as well. Must have to do with bottleneck or being stuck in a bottle-like situation. Trapped. I hope you won’t have to experience it much more!
June 2, 2023 at 17:22
???? I’m glad to have read about it and more glad not to have been through it.
June 6, 2023 at 17:08
Haha. The benefits of arm chair travel – in this situation anyway. 🙂
June 2, 2023 at 17:44
Truly amazing. I wonder if I’d have the patience!
June 6, 2023 at 17:10
Hi Jacqui! The biggest benefit of our lifestyle, in my opinion, is that we are rarely in a rush. I truly love that. I often tell people we are not rich in funds, but we are rich in time. It makes traveling and this roaming lifestyle much more enjoyable. 🙂
June 2, 2023 at 17:59
Tough, but you survived! Looks hair-raising.
June 6, 2023 at 17:12
Hi Anabel,
Now that we are in Ecuador, I have to say that Colombia was much more adventurous. For good or for bad – and there sure was some bad. It feels like Ecuador has been a breeze for us compared to its northern neighbor. Fingers crossed it stays that way! Of course, when the challenges are bigger, the rewards often are as well.
June 2, 2023 at 18:59
Glad to read you had a fun ride in spite of the obstacles to get to the Trampoline.
June 6, 2023 at 17:14
Hi Natalie!
The Trampoline as a gorgeous drive. Apparently the alternative route was scenic, crappy, and slow as well, so we are happy we made the decision to take the shortest way and that we didn’t get stuck (for too long) because of land slides.
June 2, 2023 at 19:05
Reminds me of some of Nepal’s terrifying roads. Beautiful country though!
June 6, 2023 at 17:17
Hi Margie,
The scenery in the Colombian mountains has been surprisingly pretty. We didn’t expect anything, so this has been nice.
I can see how these roads compare to the tricky mountain roads in other less developed countries. The biggest difference for me is that we are now driving ourselves, while in the mountains of hectic Southeast Asia, I was always a passenger in a bus or minivan. We drive waaaaay slower than public transportation drivers do and I wouldn’t want it a different way, even though locals get annoyed with us and pass us any and every time.
June 6, 2023 at 21:25
Good point! Being in control makes a big difference!
June 8, 2023 at 13:31
I don’t envy my husband for driving all those roads, though, but taking it easy and slowly has been good for the car and for my motion sickness as well. 🙂
June 2, 2023 at 19:21
Extraordinary journey, memories, photos, & presentation. Thank you for sharing with all of us.
June 6, 2023 at 17:18
Hi Lynn,
I’m glad you enjoyed the (virtual) ride. We’ve driven quite a few crazy roads in Colombia (and Mexico), but this one topped them all.
June 2, 2023 at 22:50
Wow, it was amazingly kind of the protesters to go to so much trouble to let you through. That’s FAR too much adventure for my taste, though! 😉
June 6, 2023 at 17:22
Haha Diane!
I agree that this little series of three episodes – the barricade, the waiting for the landslide to clear, and the actual drive on the Trampoline – was a bit too much excitement in a row for me as well. Luckily, the drive was scenic, we took our time, and nothing drastic happened.
Except for my husband getting mad at me for jumping out of the truck at some point to take photos, him not being able to pull over easily, traffic behind us getting mad and squeezing past too close for comfort, and him then having to wait for me to catch up on foot, in the rain. Yeah… That wasn’t a smart move on my part.
June 6, 2023 at 18:20
Yikes. You’re a true adrenaline junkie! 😉
June 6, 2023 at 21:20
Haha. Or just plain stupid at times! 🙂
June 3, 2023 at 07:10
I don’t usually get nervous reading your posts but this South America adventure is over the top. Great reading but it raises my blood pressure!
Be safe,
Steve
June 6, 2023 at 17:24
Hi Steve,
I’m sorry to have raised your blood pressure. You two have done some serious road tripping as well and I agree that driving in Colombia is certainly on a different level. Especially because the Trampoline of Death wasn’t the only scary road experience for us in that country. I’m happy to report that driving in Ecuador has been much less challenging! 🙂
June 3, 2023 at 07:43
One of those moments you realize “I’m not in Kansas anymore”, huh? Never a dull moment on these treks, but sure is pretty!
June 6, 2023 at 17:26
Haha, Laura! I love your Kansas quote. I can’t say we have missed the boring states and highway driving while in South America, but we sure could use a break after all the crazy driving and experiences in Colombia. That’s why, when we found a quiet pond after crossing the border with Ecuador, we boondocked there for almost a week, resting up and catching our breath!!
June 3, 2023 at 08:45
Wow, a road block that had lasted for 3 days. Glad some kind person helped you past it. What an adventure. Love the photos of the road on the Trampoline of Death. We would NOT take our trailer on that road. ???? Thanks for sharing. Jim
June 6, 2023 at 17:30
Hi Jim,
I would not take a trailer on the Trampoline either. 🙂 I don’t even know if they’re allowed on that road. Although, I never saw a sign about the maximum weight, length, or height. Anything. That being said, while buses and smaller trucks utilize this road as a thoroughfare, I definitely didn’t see eighteen wheelers.
By the way, we have never seen a height restriction on overpasses and bridges over smaller roads either. I often have to jump out to make sure we fit. Aaah, the adventure goes on.
And, yes, we were fortunate to have that escort through the road blocks. The protesters never target tourists, but it did feel strange to pass by all those truckers being stuck there for days.
June 3, 2023 at 11:38
Too much excitement for me, Liesbet. Even the video made me slightly dizzy. You say, “People had left their cars behind in line overnight!” tells me a lot about the mind-set of the people there. Yet, you made it out alive with Thirsty Bella unscathed to blog another post. Brava!
You say the scenery is worth it. I guess that’s the true test.
June 6, 2023 at 17:35
Hi Marian,
I have to admit that Colombia brought us a lot of challenges and excitement. Yet, there is a lot about that country we love. Maybe a better balance will be found as the months/years progress? In Ecuador, life has proven to be a little bit easier. Maybe that trend can continue as we head further south.
Bella has gathered quite a bit of scratches on narrow roads in the last months and – recently – I didn’t guide Mark through a metal gate properly, which resulted in deeper gashes, but in general, we have been able to escape a few situations relatively unscathed. 🙂
June 3, 2023 at 12:40
You are incredibly brave, Liesbet. I was on the edge of my seat the whole time — even though I was safely reading/viewing from my couch!
June 6, 2023 at 17:36
Hi Donna!
I warned you in the last post (or was it comment) that the Tranpoline experience would have you on the edge of your seat. 🙂 I’m glad you enjoyed it as an armchair reader/viewer. We all needed a break after six months in Colombia, haha!
June 3, 2023 at 15:12
Liesbet, I got a little nauseous just watching the videos, but I chuckled at the officer who asked if Thirsty Bella was a Cow or a Dalmatian 😉 Told you so! Mudslides, protests, a lot of very kind people and the experience of a lifetime. Thank you for sharing your adventures. I cannot imagine being in your shoes, but I love where you are walking…
June 6, 2023 at 17:42
Hi Suzanne,
After six months of bumpy roads in Colombia (surprisingly, I rarely felt nauseous; I think because we always drove so slowly), the major roads in Ecuador appear to be smoother and in better shape. Less bouncing. Unless you turn off the beaten path.
There have been two camps when it comes to our camper decorations: some think Bella resembles a Dalmatian (did you know that Maya supposedly has a bit of that breed in her genes?) or a cow. We were definitely happy to discover that South America does have black and white cows. Honestly, I was worried about that before we arrived.
We have also been asked if our camper is a vet clinic or part of a movie set. One time, a grumpy official asked what was inside the camper. Next time, we will reply “milk.” 🙂
Thank you for continuing to follow along in our virtual shoes.
June 3, 2023 at 22:57
I’m asking myself if I would drive that road … and I can’t decide! In some vehicles, maybe. Does your truck have good traction? The wet gravel would worry me, as would the river crossings in a regular car. How long were you on the road overall? I felt stressed out reading it for a few minutes – can’t imagine hour after hour on that road!
June 6, 2023 at 17:50
Hi Lexie,
Our truck had 4WD, but cars of all sizes drove this road. The traction and gravel seemed to never be an issue. We never used the 4×4. If I were in a passenger car, the river crossings would be the only thing worrying me, although none were too deep. Not seeing what kind of rocks would end up under the tires, that would worry me. And having to back up into a pullout for the bigger vehicles, as that’s usually the unspoken rule.
Believe it or not, but we actually drove this road much faster than I anticipated and than other dirt roads in Colombia, where we usually average about 5mph. I’m not sure what got into Mark. First, we wanted to keep up with the stream of cars in front of us and then, he kept a decent pace of around 10-15mph.
We stopped a few times for photos and kept up the pace, which had us on the Trampoline of Death road for about four hours. Most cars do it quicker, I’m sure, but for us, this was a speedy trip! 🙂
June 5, 2023 at 23:02
Wow you daredevils. Trampoline death looked pretty scary on snakey roads in the wilderness, lol. I loved listening to you gabbing in Spanish. You are doing well with Duo Lingo my friend. <3
June 6, 2023 at 17:52
Hi Debby,
I was beating myself up listening to that video afterwards, as I made so many mistakes in Spanish. I do gab when it comes to communicating in that language and – as always – thinking more before I speak might help us all out! 🙂 I enjoy my daily DuoLingo lessons but wished I had more time and energy at night (when I have my downtime) to practice longer and more in depth.
June 6, 2023 at 20:42
You are doing just fine Liesbet. Look where you are now. Before this year is out, you’ll be a pro! <3
June 6, 2023 at 21:23
Thank you, dear friend. You are very encouraging and kind.
I just finished DuoLingo and managed to practice for 30 minutes. That makes me happy. When I have busy days communicating with locals in person, I’m not so inspired and motivated by the “virtual Spanish” at night. But today was a mellow “Spanish day”. We hiked all morning without speaking to any locals (it was a very gringo touristy experience) and then we ate lunch at a Persian restaurant, where we ordered in Spanish. That was all today. A “quiet” speaking day in Ecuador. 🙂
June 7, 2023 at 08:19
Sounds like a perfect day. Lol gringo. You’ll be fluent in no time! 🙂 🙂 xx
June 8, 2023 at 13:35
Being fluent in Spanish would be a great accomplishment and help, but I think it would only happen if we become expats in a Spanish-speaking country one day. Never say never! 🙂
June 11, 2023 at 07:10
I’m glad you told us why the road block was in place. And I’m so pleased that two of the protesters took pity on you and allowed you through. Watching the video was ‘edge of your seat’ stuff, Liesbet. Couldn’t help but noice –
1. How many motorcycles there are on the roads.
2. How many riding them do not wear helmets.
But the trampoline road of death was an a amazing sight, although I hate to think how Thirsty Bella’s shock absorbers coped. It looked very wet. Was it humid?
June 11, 2023 at 16:02
Hi Hugh,
Thank you for watching the road block video. I think it gives a good, realistic view of the drive and the situation. When I watched it afterwards, I was more on the edge of my seat than when actually driving it!
The motorcycles and their drivers are completely crazy in Colombia! Nuts! We really hated being surrounded by them at all times. They were like nasty mosquitoes: loud and annoying. Mark learned to mostly “ignore” them as it was hard enough to keep track of all the car and truck drivers! And pedestrians and bicyclists.
The Trampoline of Death road is located high in the mountains, where fog and rain – and landslides – are the norm. It wasn’t humid as it can be in the tropics, but it was very wet indeed!
We sure have been bouncing a lot the last seven months, but Thirsty is handling it all very well. 🙂
June 22, 2023 at 23:55
Loved the dashcam video and especially listening to your voices as you made your way on the Trampoline of Death!
June 23, 2023 at 11:45
Hi Annie,
So cool that you came along for the ride when we had the dashcam on. That was real-time footage that we never thought we’d share with anyone, haha. It’s Mark’s first and probably only attempt at editing a video! 🙂