For our second two-week stint in the southern part of the Iberian Peninsula, Mark and I rented a fairly modern apartment in the coastal city of Benalmádena. The main reason for coming to Spain this winter was to check out a few cute Andalusian villages as a potential future base. Ideally, we would have stayed in one of those towns, but higher rents and cooler mountain temperatures in mid-February nudged us towards the Mediterranean coast instead.
View over the town and the Med from Benalmádena
The weather improved for a little while, but our apartment lacked outdoor space to enjoy those elusive sunrays during what turned out to be a particularly cold, windy, and wet winter. The thin walls didn’t help either, especially with loud neighbors above us. We relied on the fan for background noise to sleep.
Ronda
The first town we decided to visit was a winner! Mark and I were immediately charmed by the beautiful architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and spectacular surroundings. We picked a sunny day for our visit and quickly fell in love with Ronda. Yes, it’s touristy—but with good reason.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
We admired the historic buildings, three different bridges, and the dramatic El Tajo gorge. While we had planned to descend to the river far below, a couple of hours of strolling around town—combined with a fantastic tapas lunch at dog-friendly El Lechuguita—left us without the energy for that steep descent and climb back up.
Instead, we drove around the outskirts for a better view of what many consider Ronda’s masterpiece: the Puente Nuevo. Completed in 1793, it spans the lush canyon in truly impressive fashion.
Setenil de las Bodegas
Since we still had some daylight left, we made a quick stop in Setenil de las Bodegas—a town I had only recently come across in a blog and that immediately piqued my curiosity.
For an hour, we wandered the shaded streets and photographed the homes built directly into the rocks and cliffs. I found this fascinating, as we never saw anything like it before. The closest comparison we could think of were the cave dwellings of Mesa Verde in Colorado—which, of course, are completely different.
One small door had a sign: “Visitors welcome – €1.” Curious about the interior, I stepped inside. The elderly man who lived there told me he was the fourth generation to call that tiny house home.
El Burgo
This was the first village on our list of potential future bases. We started our visit with a 6-mile hike along the river, enjoying the scenery and the striking blue waters of the reservoir.
At one point, we crossed a flooded ledge to make a loop—something Mark wasn’t thrilled about—but he followed after I took my shoes off and “tested the waters”.
Back in town, our only affordable lunch option turned out to be mediocre: a three-course set menu with a lot of fried food. We lingered, taking in the atmosphere of locals and expats—mostly drinking beer—and after chatting with a few people, we realized this town wasn’t for us.
We finished our visit with a stroll through the small but charming downtown, but the decision had already been made: El Burgo is a pass.
Benalmádena
Benalmádena was home for two weeks. While it was bigger, busier, and more built-up than we had expected, we were pleasantly surprised by its charming corners and quieter areas once we started exploring.
Close to our apartment was a viewpoint with a stupa. And when we ventured off the beaten path, we found a few rocky spots—without crowds—where we could enjoy views of the deep-blue Mediterranean. We had hoped to bring drinks there one evening, but once the sunny days disappeared, it was simply too cold.
One afternoon, we visited the popular waterfront and its award-winning marina, but the crowds and prices quickly confirmed that coastal living isn’t for us.
We still enjoyed walks along the grey beach, nearby parks, and quieter streets. The boardwalk was attractive, but even happy hour prices felt a bit steep.
Benalmádena was more than just sightseeing. We ordered three packages via Amazon. The first—a yoga mat—got lost (or stolen), so no ground exercises for me. That 50-year-old belly keeps growing!
For the second, we stayed home most of the day waiting for Mark’s 220V hair clippers that were supposedly arriving at 11am. After hours of waiting on a rare sunny day, we finally left at 3pm… only to receive a message twenty minutes later that the package had arrived.
Our Spanish skills were tested trying to figure out how the delivery even reached our door in a gated community—and whether our noisy neighbors might walk off with it. In Spain, packages seem to arrive in their original boxes, so everyone knows what’s inside.
The third package—ground flaxseed—was delivered to a florist. Working around siesta hours and relaxed opening times, we eventually picked it up and decided this was by far the least stressful delivery method.
We also took care of an EU pet passport for Maya. If only we had done this during our summer in Belgium two years ago—it would have saved us hundreds of dollars in South America. The process took about half an hour and cost just €21 ($25).
I also picked up a few translation projects and we made good use of the apartment’s kitchen and washing machine (even if drying clothes was a challenge).
We started celebrating Mark’s birthday a couple of days early, since March 1st—moving day—would be busy. I made my traditional crepes breakfast, and we enjoyed a lovely lunch at a vegan café.
El Torcal
This natural area was a bit of a surprise. We hadn’t realized it was only about an hour from Benalmádena.
What we thought would be a simple outing turned into a 6-mile mountain hike. The rocky landscape was striking and unique—I loved it—though Mark was less impressed.
We spotted herds of wild goats and enjoyed the quieter sections of the trail. Near the visitor center, however, the crowds took over. Tour buses and packed paths made it feel much less special.
After a peaceful sandwich break, we decided to retrace our steps rather than complete the loop along the busy access road.
Málaga
We saved Málaga for our last full day, a Saturday, which wasn’t the best idea.
It was Andalusia Day, meaning free entry to attractions and, unsurprisingly, massive crowds. My plan to visit the Picasso Museum failed. By the time I arrived, the line stretched incredibly far—easily an hour wait. Lesson learned.
Instead, I explored the Alcazaba, Roman theater, and surrounding streets on my own, while Mark and Maya sought out quieter spots.
Overall, the city didn’t resonate with us. Combined with the crowds and the hassle of parking (our Portuguese-plated rental wasn’t allowed in low-emission zones), we ended up heading home earlier than planned.
Canillas de Aceituno
On March 1st, we moved from the coast to the mountains, heading to Órgiva. As usual on a longer drive, we made a tourist stop along the way—this time in Canillas de Aceituno, another village on our “maybe someday” list.
After parking, we followed a small group of people up endless stairs into the hills. This was easily one of the steepest towns we’ve ever visited.
Our hike turned into a 5-mile adventure. Part of the trail was closed, but we still reached a suspension bridge and crossed metal platforms along steep cliffs. This route is nicknamed the “Mini Caminito del Rey” (or “Poor Man’s” version), since it’s free. We actually tried to book the real Caminito del Rey, but tickets sell out months in advance and we never plan ahead like that.
After a long wait for our preferred restaurant to open, we enjoyed a simple but excellent lunch: a shared salad (one of the best we’ve ever had) and a seafood pizza. Happy birthday, Mark!
Bonus Destination: Gibraltar
Not a white village—and not even Spain—but we couldn’t resist visiting Gibraltar. This excursion took place during our first week in Benalmádena.
After a two-hour drive, we parked on the Spanish side and walked across the border, where only American Mark received a stamp. A plane landing on the runway (which you literally cross) caused a short delay before we entered the British territory and exited the Schengen zone.
High prices ($40/person) and dog restrictions to visit “The Rock”, which offers Gibraltar’s highlights, made us decide to just walk the length of the peninsula instead and return by bus.
We wandered through the historic center, followed a self-guided route, and made our way to Europa Point, where we had distant views of Morocco. A mosque we wanted to visit was closed during Ramadan prayer time, so we continued exploring.
Then came a surreal moment: a US Navy flotilla—including the largest aircraft carrier in the world—passed through the Strait of Gibraltar. We watched in awe… and with a bit of unease as it headed towards Iran.
Our return journey by bus failed as no dogs were allowed. So we walked back. Again. Even resting after all this effort proved tricky—we were asked to leave the only patch of grass we found in a pretty park, because of Maya!
All in all, Gibraltar was interesting, but not a place we feel the need to return to.
February 2025 Expenses
February was an affordable month since Patti hosted us for free the first two weeks and the other accommodation and the rental car had already been paid for, apart from the “Spain fee”. Groceries were on the higher side, fuel reasonable, and we had a few extra admin costs. We cooked most of our meals.
Maya needed salmon-based kibble and a pet passport and Mark ordered an international driving permit, once we discovered he actually needed this to drive legally in Spain. The shipping from AAA in the US cost more than the actual permit. Nothing too crazy went to alcohol and entertainment.
Our total came to $1,262, which is actually under our monthly average for the last two decades. But February is a short month and it is sandwiched between two super expensive ones, due to rental accommodation.
February 2026 expense overview:
- Groceries: $447
- Car (fuel): $227
- Dining out: $173
- Dog (food: $65; passport: $25): $90
- Miscellaneous (IDP): $83
- Alcohol: $64
- Transportation (rental car Spain fee, taxi): $57
- Entertainment (castles, ferry parents): $47
- Gifts (port Patti): $40
- Household supplies (hair clippers): $22
- Utilities (SIM card): $12
TOTAL: 1,262
Next up: More cute villages – including our favorite – in Granada Province, Spain
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