For our second two-week stint in the southern part of the Iberian Peninsula, Mark and I rented a fairly modern apartment in the coastal city of Benalmádena. The main reason for coming to Spain this winter was to check out a few cute Andalusian villages as a potential future base. Ideally, we would have stayed in one of those towns, but higher rents and cooler mountain temperatures in mid-February nudged us towards the Mediterranean coast instead.
View over the town and the Med from Benalmádena
The weather improved for a little while, but our apartment lacked outdoor space to enjoy those elusive sunrays during what turned out to be a particularly cold, windy, and wet winter. The thin walls didn’t help either, especially with loud neighbors above us. We relied on the fan for background noise to sleep.
Ronda
The first town we decided to visit was a winner! Mark and I were immediately charmed by the beautiful architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and spectacular surroundings. We picked a sunny day for our visit and quickly fell in love with Ronda. Yes, it’s touristy—but with good reason.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
We admired the historic buildings, three different bridges, and the dramatic El Tajo gorge. While we had planned to descend to the river far below, a couple of hours of strolling around town—combined with a fantastic tapas lunch at dog-friendly El Lechuguita—left us without the energy for that steep descent and climb back up.
Instead, we drove around the outskirts for a better view of what many consider Ronda’s masterpiece: the Puente Nuevo. Completed in 1793, it spans the lush canyon in truly impressive fashion.
Setenil de las Bodegas
Since we still had some daylight left, we made a quick stop in Setenil de las Bodegas—a town I had only recently come across in a blog and that immediately piqued my curiosity.
For an hour, we wandered the shaded streets and photographed the homes built directly into the rocks and cliffs. I found this fascinating, as we never saw anything like it before. The closest comparison we could think of were the cave dwellings of Mesa Verde in Colorado—which, of course, are completely different.
One small door had a sign: “Visitors welcome – €1.” Curious about the interior, I stepped inside. The elderly man who lived there told me he was the fourth generation to call that tiny house home.
El Burgo
This was the first village on our list of potential future bases. We started our visit with a 6-mile hike along the river, enjoying the scenery and the striking blue waters of the reservoir.
At one point, we crossed a flooded ledge to make a loop—something Mark wasn’t thrilled about—but he followed after I took my shoes off and “tested the waters”.
Back in town, our only affordable lunch option turned out to be mediocre: a three-course set menu with a lot of fried food. We lingered, taking in the atmosphere of locals and expats—mostly drinking beer—and after chatting with a few people, we realized this town wasn’t for us.
We finished our visit with a stroll through the small but charming downtown, but the decision had already been made: El Burgo is a pass.
Benalmádena
Benalmádena was home for two weeks. While it was bigger, busier, and more built-up than we had expected, we were pleasantly surprised by its charming corners and quieter areas once we started exploring.
Close to our apartment was a viewpoint with a stupa. And when we ventured off the beaten path, we found a few rocky spots—without crowds—where we could enjoy views of the deep-blue Mediterranean. We had hoped to bring drinks there one evening, but once the sunny days disappeared, it was simply too cold.
One afternoon, we visited the popular waterfront and its award-winning marina, but the crowds and prices quickly confirmed that coastal living isn’t for us.
We still enjoyed walks along the grey beach, nearby parks, and quieter streets. The boardwalk was attractive, but even happy hour prices felt a bit steep.
Benalmádena was more than just sightseeing. We ordered three packages via Amazon. The first—a yoga mat—got lost (or stolen), so no ground exercises for me. That 50-year-old belly keeps growing!
For the second, we stayed home most of the day waiting for Mark’s 220V hair clippers that were supposedly arriving at 11am. After hours of waiting on a rare sunny day, we finally left at 3pm… only to receive a message twenty minutes later that the package had arrived.
Our Spanish skills were tested trying to figure out how the delivery even reached our door in a gated community—and whether our noisy neighbors might walk off with it. In Spain, packages seem to arrive in their original boxes, so everyone knows what’s inside.
The third package—ground flaxseed—was delivered to a florist. Working around siesta hours and relaxed opening times, we eventually picked it up and decided this was by far the least stressful delivery method.
We also took care of an EU pet passport for Maya. If only we had done this during our summer in Belgium two years ago—it would have saved us hundreds of dollars in South America. The process took about half an hour and cost just €21 ($25).
I also picked up a few translation projects and we made good use of the apartment’s kitchen and washing machine (even if drying clothes was a challenge).
We started celebrating Mark’s birthday a couple of days early, since March 1st—moving day—would be busy. I made my traditional crepes breakfast, and we enjoyed a lovely lunch at a vegan café.
El Torcal
This natural area was a bit of a surprise. We hadn’t realized it was only about an hour from Benalmádena.
What we thought would be a simple outing turned into a 6-mile mountain hike. The rocky landscape was striking and unique—I loved it—though Mark was less impressed.
We spotted herds of wild goats and enjoyed the quieter sections of the trail. Near the visitor center, however, the crowds took over. Tour buses and packed paths made it feel much less special.
After a peaceful sandwich break, we decided to retrace our steps rather than complete the loop along the busy access road.
Málaga
We saved Málaga for our last full day, a Saturday, which wasn’t the best idea.
It was Andalusia Day, meaning free entry to attractions and, unsurprisingly, massive crowds. My plan to visit the Picasso Museum failed. By the time I arrived, the line stretched incredibly far—easily an hour wait. Lesson learned.
Instead, I explored the Alcazaba, Roman theater, and surrounding streets on my own, while Mark and Maya sought out quieter spots.
Overall, the city didn’t resonate with us. Combined with the crowds and the hassle of parking (our Portuguese-plated rental wasn’t allowed in low-emission zones), we ended up heading home earlier than planned.
Canillas de Aceituno
On March 1st, we moved from the coast to the mountains, heading to Órgiva. As usual on a longer drive, we made a tourist stop along the way—this time in Canillas de Aceituno, another village on our “maybe someday” list.
After parking, we followed a small group of people up endless stairs into the hills. This was easily one of the steepest towns we’ve ever visited.
Our hike turned into a 5-mile adventure. Part of the trail was closed, but we still reached a suspension bridge and crossed metal platforms along steep cliffs. This route is nicknamed the “Mini Caminito del Rey” (or “Poor Man’s” version), since it’s free. We actually tried to book the real Caminito del Rey, but tickets sell out months in advance and we never plan ahead like that.
After a long wait for our preferred restaurant to open, we enjoyed a simple but excellent lunch: a shared salad (one of the best we’ve ever had) and a seafood pizza. Happy birthday, Mark!
Bonus Destination: Gibraltar
Not a white village—and not even Spain—but we couldn’t resist visiting Gibraltar. This excursion took place during our first week in Benalmádena.
After a two-hour drive, we parked on the Spanish side and walked across the border, where only American Mark received a stamp. A plane landing on the runway (which you literally cross) caused a short delay before we entered the British territory and exited the Schengen zone.
High prices ($40/person) and dog restrictions to visit “The Rock”, which offers Gibraltar’s highlights, made us decide to just walk the length of the peninsula instead and return by bus.
We wandered through the historic center, followed a self-guided route, and made our way to Europa Point, where we had distant views of Morocco. A mosque we wanted to visit was closed during Ramadan prayer time, so we continued exploring.
Then came a surreal moment: a US Navy flotilla—including the largest aircraft carrier in the world—passed through the Strait of Gibraltar. We watched in awe… and with a bit of unease as it headed towards Iran.
Our return journey by bus failed as no dogs were allowed. So we walked back. Again. Even resting after all this effort proved tricky—we were asked to leave the only patch of grass we found in a pretty park, because of Maya!
All in all, Gibraltar was interesting, but not a place we feel the need to return to.
February 2025 Expenses
February was an affordable month since Patti hosted us for free the first two weeks and the other accommodation and the rental car had already been paid for, apart from the “Spain fee”. Groceries were on the higher side, fuel reasonable, and we had a few extra admin costs. We cooked most of our meals.
Maya needed salmon-based kibble and a pet passport and Mark ordered an international driving permit, once we discovered he actually needed this to drive legally in Spain. The shipping from AAA in the US cost more than the actual permit. Nothing too crazy went to alcohol and entertainment.
Our total came to $1,262, which is actually under our monthly average for the last two decades. But February is a short month and it is sandwiched between two super expensive ones, due to rental accommodation.
February 2026 expense overview:
- Groceries: $447
- Car (fuel): $227
- Dining out: $173
- Dog (food: $65; passport: $25): $90
- Miscellaneous (IDP): $83
- Alcohol: $64
- Transportation (rental car Spain fee, taxi): $57
- Entertainment (castles, ferry parents): $47
- Gifts (port Patti): $40
- Household supplies (hair clippers): $22
- Utilities (SIM card): $12
TOTAL: 1,262
Next up: More cute villages – including our favorite – in Granada Province, Spain
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March 30, 2026 at 12:37 pm
I’ve enjoyed your explorations – I don’t know this area at all. Gibraltar always seems a weird anomaly. My mum and dad visited once but I can’t say it appeals to me.
March 31, 2026 at 4:20 pm
Hi Anabel,
We really enjoyed Andalusia. Gibraltar is a weird one, for sure. When I posted our opinion about it on Facebook, I had a local feel bad about us not enjoying our visit (mostly because of the country being dog unfriendly, noisy, and expensive). He suggested we’d contact him next time we come and he would make sure to show us the “real” Gibraltar.
It was interesting to me how Spain has always wanted to own Gibraltar and thinks it’s theirs, while the locals prefer and are obviously committed to being British. It reminded me of “Las Malvinas” (Falkland Islands) and how Argentina claims it. 🙂
March 31, 2026 at 6:10 pm
Neither seems logical – just the results of British colonialism 🙁.
April 4, 2026 at 8:07 am
🙁
March 30, 2026 at 5:29 pm
You have added a few places for us to visit the next time we are in Spain. It really is a lovely country full of wonderful people. Happy belated birthday to Mark!
March 31, 2026 at 4:22 pm
Thanks, Janis. One of my goals of being down here for two months was to figure out which country spoke more to me, Spain or Portugal. Surprisingly (to me, anyway), I have the answer already. 🙂
March 30, 2026 at 6:34 pm
Belated happy birthday to Mark!
Those buildings are build rather deep into the cliff. That would make me nervous to live there!
March 31, 2026 at 4:24 pm
Thanks, Alex! Apparently, many generations and different peoples have lived in those cliffs for hundreds if not thousands of years. The construction looks solid to me, but I’d be worried about water seepage, humidity, and mold. Houses not built into the cliffs suffer from all that in Spain and Portugal!!
March 31, 2026 at 3:26 pm
That’s an amazing budget for the kind of travelling you’ve been doing lately! As you say, it would have been quite a bit different without your “free” couple of weeks. I imagine you must be getting anxious to get a new camper.
Those homes built into the rock gave me the heebie-jeebies! Very cool from an architectural standpoint, but I wouldn’t want to live there. 😉
March 31, 2026 at 4:29 pm
Hi Diane,
That monthly budget is not a good indication of our expenses, since it doesn’t include any lodging costs, which we had a lot of. Therefore, January and March pretty much had/have triple the cost. 🙁 Yeah, this is not a long-term travel method for us or we’d be broke in no time! So, you’re right, we are getting anxious to obtain our next camper. Hopefully we can 100% focus on that in a few weeks. (Instead of 25%).
If I lived in those cliffs, I’d worry about water dripping and seeping inside my home, but the locals seem to have that figured out. They have extra ceilings and sealant inside, it seems like.
April 1, 2026 at 9:18 pm
Wonderful explorations, Liesbet. I’ve been to Ronda, Málaga and Gibraltar but not the other places in your post. Between Portugal and Spain, I have my answer but look forward to learning what yours is 🙂
April 4, 2026 at 8:13 am
You seem to enjoy Spain a lot, Natalie, based on your continued explorations in that country. I look forward to more in-depth travels on the Iberian peninsula whenever we have a camper again.
April 3, 2026 at 3:13 pm
I particularly enjoyed this post, Liesbet, since we’ve also spent time in this area of Spain and also took a day trip to Gibraltar. Too bad, the latter was not friendly towards dogs. Looking forward to reading where you might end up one day!
April 4, 2026 at 8:15 am
Hi Annie,
It’s been interesting to check out a few of the villages in southern Spain, but, in reality, just a day here and there is not enough to really “feel” a place to potentially live there one day. I think we will need to rent a place long-term in a few areas whenever finding a base is really on the table.
April 5, 2026 at 8:13 am
What I really enjoyed about this one is how the photos make these villages feel more real than just postcard pretty. Those whitewashed streets and hillside views are stunning, but it’s the quieter moments that stuck with me—like the small plazas and everyday corners. The perspective shots of the villages perched up on the hills almost don’t look real at first glance. And then you balance that with the more lived-in feel, especially seeing your place and how you’re actually settling into daily life there. That contrast between exploring and just living is something you capture really well. I also have to say, I’m always amazed at how you manage your expenses. You lay it out so clearly, and somehow you’re living this rich, full experience on a budget that feels incredibly intentional. It’s not just saving money—it’s choosing how you want to live. That part is just as inspiring as the places themselves. Jim
April 7, 2026 at 11:38 am
Hi again, Jim. And thank you once more for your thoughtful comments.
You certainly hit the hammer on the head with your notes and I’m so happy you understand how our life looks like, the good, the bad, and the ugly. And the fact that this is “life” and not just a vacation. Although, we are relaxing a bit regarding our expenses. That being said, wait until you see the total of March. It’s less pretty. More accommodation rent had to be taken into account.
I hope to write a financial post one day, with insights and tips and in which I explain how and why we’ve been living this way and what the advantages have been. But that article will have to wait until I have a bunch if leisure time.
April 7, 2026 at 4:23 pm
Thanks for sharing this lovely mini tour with us Liesbet. I feel like you guys are feeling relaxed in Europe. I appreciate the peek into some of these quaint little towns. 😍
April 10, 2026 at 1:51 pm
Hi Debby,
Europe has been quaint and interesting so far. It’s certainly a different lifestyle for us for a bit. In a way, it’s been more relaxing. But we are yearning to have our own home (on wheels) again. The novelty of staying in crappy apartments that don’t have the necessary cooking utensils, comfortable furniture, or mattresses and pillows that don’t hurt our backs is wearing off. And so are the sewage smells, the thin walls that let noise and smoke in, and the low-hanging obstacles (since we seem much taller than the average local everywhere we stay).
April 10, 2026 at 5:55 am
I’ve visited this area, although a long time ago, but I never made it to Gibraltar. I heard the Gibraltar monkeys were a problem, but you didn’t mention them. Are they still an issue, Liesbet? I love that you were able to see Morocco across the sea. But seeing those naval ships on their way to Iran must have been a bit of a down moment. Which brings me on to the cost of fuel caused by the Middle East conflict. It must be putting a big dent in your fuel budget unless you have switched to an electric car.
April 10, 2026 at 1:57 pm
Hi Hugh,
The Gibraltar monkeys seem to reside on “the rock”, which covers most of the territory and has a lot of nature. We didn’t go there, because it’s a park in its entirety and it was very pricey and not dog-friendly to visit. And, as you know by now, we take Maya everywhere or we don’t go. I hear the monkeys are still cheeky, but we didn’t see any as we stayed at sea level.
Fuel has been crazy expensive in Europe, especially lately due to the irrational behavior of a certain idiot, which has been affecting our travel costs negatively for a while. Luckily, our rental car had really good fuel mileage, so we certainly spent less money driving the distances than we did with our camper. That being said, we are happy to have returned that small car by now. But I can’t say that train travel is that affordable either, especially with a dog in tow. It’s yet another adventure that brings its own challenges.
April 15, 2026 at 7:53 pm
Everything looks so amazing. Especially, of course, the town built into the rocks. Evergreen, Colorado (where we house-sat once), has some buildings built into rocks. But nothing like this.
We need to look into an international driver’s license now. I didn’t realize that any place actually required one.
April 16, 2026 at 4:43 am
Hi Duwan,
You shouldn’t need an international driver’s licence in Central and South America, unless something has changed. When we researched our trip in SA, there was confusion about needing one for French Guyana, but if you stay less than thirty days, it’s not necessary. And nobody I know stays longer than a month in French Guyana. 🙂
That being said, it is very easy to pick one up at an AAA office or get one mailed to you. The permit itself costs $30, I believe. Ours was expensive since we freaked out and had it FedExed to Spain. Nobody ever asked. Not even at the rental agencies.