Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Nomad Life (page 10 of 13)

Escape into Nature – Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument in Washington State

July 28, 2022 / / 64 Comments

I hinted at it before: Mark and I have had some challenges the last few months, in general, and a few difficulties and issues regarding our current Lance 830 truck camper. Without going into detail just yet, we decided that our best plan of action in early July (a week before my departure to Belgium) was to head into the woods. We could use a change of scenery, needed to escape the 90+ temperatures of Portland, Oregon, wanted to test our camper on rough roads and terrain, and looked forward to camping in nature again.

(As always, click on or hover over the photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The National Monument sports tons of hikes for every level.
Gifford Pinchot National Forest
Mount St. Helens viewpoint
The area has a wealth of attractions and hikes – we only scratched the surface.
Close to our first campsite, we found a trail heading into the woods.

The three of us had a fantastic time hiking in Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, sleeping in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, exploring trails and backroads, and bouncing around on the roughest roads we ever encountered (since that was the goal).

Our current truck camper and home
Potholed forest roads
Big open spot where we camped the second night.
Glimpses of Mount St. Helens
A good place to test the durability of our rig.
Our current home in front of Mount St. Helens
Driving towards the volcano
Maya is intrigued and enlightened by the snow.
On our fourth and last night, we camped close to a stream.
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Join Us at the Virtual Vanlife Summit – An Entertaining, Inspiring & Free Event

July 20, 2022 / / 24 Comments

A free three-day event packed with information, talks, and interactions

Tomorrow, the three-day Virtual Vanlife Summit begins and I am one of the speakers and live panelists. My talk takes place on Thursday, July 21st at 12pm PDT (US West Coast time), which is 9pm in Belgium (where I currently am) and focuses on living on a budget while on the road. I will happily answer any questions you have in the chat box.

Talk about living as a nomad on a budget

The next day, on Friday, July 22nd at 11am PDT, I join a live panel in which we will discuss relationships on the road. How do we survive living together 24/7 with our partner in a tiny space without killing each other? Again, ask us any question during the broadcast.

Live panel about relationships in a small camper

This entire event is free, but you have to register to attend. Check it out and sign up here. I hope to “see” you there!

Mark, Liesbet, and Maya pose in front of Thirsty, the truck, and our soon-to-be-named camper

Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary

Available on Amazon and elsewhere

eBook: US$ 5.99

Paperback: US$ 13.99

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad – June 2022

July 8, 2022 / / 32 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Last month was unusual to say the least; our expense categories, our location (mostly apart from each other), and our focus. Plus, the weather was extreme: rain almost every day Mark was gone and upper nineties Fahrenheit (mid-thirties Celsius) for three days shortly after his return…

(Click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

My home while Mark was away
My living quarters
Roomy kitchen
Protection against all the Oregon rain
Extremely hot weather, the end of June – it was more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit in our camper, but the thermometer doesn’t go any higher than 99!

Mark flew to Newburyport, Massachusetts, for three weeks to help out his mom who injured herself, arrange the funeral service for his dad, Stanley, who passed away in February, and receive health check-ups, which caused extra stress and grief. He was super overwhelmed and busy those weeks.

Maya on her dinette bed
Maya on her dog bed
“Can I come up, mommy?”

Maya and I stayed in our recently-purchased Lance 830 truck camper on the property of friends in the Portland area of Oregon. Yes, the opposite end of the country. I organized our life inside (as we had quickly “moved in” two days before Mark’s departure), caught up with a bunch of internet tasks and work, did an interview as a presenter for my first Van Life Summit, and completed small projects.

Van Life Virtual Summit 2022
My presentation takes place at noon PST on July 21st (on Belgium’s National Day, while I am there)

Taking care of Maya and providing her with enough exercise also took a chunk of time and was much more fun when the sun peeked out.

Spring by the Columbia River
Sign in downtown
Main street in St. Helens
On the rare clear days, one can see Mount Hood from town
St. Helens is nestled along the Columbia River in Oregon

No crazy high categories in June. Our grocery costs were reasonable and we paid for fuel once in MA for Mark using the car of his mom and once for the truck here in order to drive it back and forth to PDX, Portland’s airport. Parking fees are steep in Boston, where some of Mark’s health check-ups take place.

Extra categories involved paying for one third of Stan’s funeral service, providing drinks for the gathering afterwards (recorded as a gift; on hindsight, it should probably have gone in miscellaneous as well), and spending too much money on annual credit card fees, because we forgot to cancel one of our cards in time. As I mentioned, too much else going on. While $95 might not seem like a lot to some people, it does make a difference for us.*

Mark reading my text for Stan at his dad’s memorial service on June 11th.
The Reverend presents the funeral service in the Unitarian Church of Newburyport.
I managed to follow the service virtually via Zoom.

Mark bought accessories for a new computer, but ended up returning the device. He will be able to use the parts whenever he decides to finally purchase a replacement laptop. I bought a few more items to organize the interior of our camper.

Filling a gap behind the mattress to be able to lean against the wall and sit upright in bed
Now we can sit upright in bed
Contents of one of the many packages we are ordering in St. Helens. It’s nice to have an address when doing heaps of projects!
Extra memory for Mark’s next device
We bought a custom-made blind for the back window

And, I finally gave in and purchased a raincoat, a garment I haven’t owned in years. There are three reasons for this decision: Oregon has been wet, I’m sure I need one in South America, and I want something with pockets to stuff them with goodies on the plane ride back from Belgium as I’m only allowed to take one personal item for a three-week trip! (Two weeks in my home country and one week in Massachusetts before flying back to Oregon.)

Our living quarters seen from the bed.
Maya stressed out (but still cute) and hiding behind our pillows during the fireworks that started well before July 4th.

We ordered an expensive pizza for take-out one evening, have been enjoying free music in town on Thursday nights with our friends (hence the drinking out), Maya needed a few items, and – for some reason – one now has to pay out of pocket to prep for a colonoscopy. Sorry if this is too much information. No taboos on this site.

Egg noodles with a mushroom – parsley cream sauce
Cauliflower soup – my first attempt in cooking soup.
Scott presented delicious homemade gnocchi for dinner one night.
The end result: homemade gnocchi with clam sauce (clams he harvested)
Maya cute and comfy on the porch

On a positive note, we didn’t spend a dime on accommodation, courtesy (again and still) of our friends here in St. Helens. And we have primarily been cooking our own meals and sharing some of them with our hosts.  Once Mark was back, we dove into projects again. Stay tuned while we try and figure out our next move, which remains incredibly tricky and stressful…

From the moment Mark returned, he dove into more projects.
For some of the projects, our camper needs to be on the truck
Swapping the space-consuming plastic bathroom door out with a whimsical shower curtain
Installing a new track for a shower curtain in the bathroom
Trying to diagnose and fix a big issue underneath the camper
New exhaust vent cover and LED lights outside

(PS: We did have about $500 of Lance camper expenses in June as well, but since we budgeted for that (so far), it becomes part of our purchase price. I plan to write a separate post about those projects and costs.)

*UPDATE: We called our Chase bank to cancel that credit card and they will refund the $95 annual fee (so our total expenses for June 2022 are closer to $1,230).  Apparently, this is their policy and courtesy when you cancel within 41 days of paying the fee.

June 2022 Overview:

Groceries:

Miscellaneous (memorial service):

Bank fees (CC annual fees):

Car (fuel: $117; parking: $14):

Gifts (drinks for memorial event):

Computer hardware (parts):

Alcohol:

Utilities (internet: $35; propane: $19):

Household:

Clothing (rain jacket Liesbet):

Health & fitness (vitamins Mark):

Dining out:

Medical (colonoscopy prep M):

Drinking out:

Dog (fish oil, shampoo, treats):

Transportation (train from airport):

Accommodation:

 

TOTAL:

 

$267

$225

$190

$131

$86

$77

$74

$54

$44

$39

$35

$28

$26

$26

$23

$7

$0

———

$ 1,332

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Donate to Roaming About to help maintain this website.

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad – May 2022

June 10, 2022 / / 27 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Last month was quite crazy for us; on many fronts. Our circumstances – hunting for a different camper, picking it up, moving locations, preparing and delivering our original camper that was for sale, fixing imminent issues and systems in our “new” home on wheels, a terrible accident in the family, my mother-in-law breaking her shoulder, Mark having to fly back east, me booking a plane ticket, … (read about it all here) – hugely affected our expenditures in May.

(Click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

These fuel prices greeted us when we crossed back into the US after four months on the Baja California peninsula in Mexico.
Crossing state borders again
Scenery along the way – gone are the blue skies!
Finally, Idaho – Mark and I never explored this state; and it wouldn’t happen again, this time around
Driving through part of Oregon again, on our return trip to Boise, ID
Wintry California landscape in mid-May!

The largest cost by far was gasoline for our truck, as we drove north in California, crisscrossed this state a few times between Auburn, CA, and Boise, Idaho, made a “detour” to Twin Falls, ID, to drop off our Cirrus camper, and headed west to St. Helens, Oregon. We knew we were spending hundreds of dollars over those weeks, but were still flabbergasted at the total sum of over $1,000!!! There is only one solution for our frugal budgets: sit still for a long while. Because of all our upcoming camper projects and issues, we kind of have to anyway.

Cheapest price for gasoline on the 520-mile drive. before arriving back in Boise
We often spent between $130 and $150 a tank of gas in May – and the prices are still rising!
Back in the days, when the fuel price per gallon was still under $5. Not so much in St. Helens, OR.
Biking to (hardware) stores to save fuel

Speaking of which, our Lance camper expenses are actually much higher than any other category, but since we budgeted for that (so far), it becomes part of our purchase price. I plan to dedicate a separate post for those projects and costs.

First stop in Auburn, CA, to check out this well-used Lance 830 truck camper for sale (by owner); we spent six hours scrutinizing it and had a chat with the friendly dealer
Ready to purchase the Lance 830
Too cold to eat outside – Mark and I save money by making and bringing our own meals everywhere
RV dealership where the camper was sold on consignment
Posing with RV dealer Glen, who was incredibly helpful with the transaction and communications
Collecting campers in the driveway of our friends
Ordering lots of parts for our “new” camper
Fixing lots of issues with our “new” camper
Lots of money exchanged hands in May

Some of our US car insurance money was still due, as we had paused this policy when traveling throughout Baja, Mexico, for four months. And, after all the driving, Thirsty was due for an oil change, which Mark performed a few hundred miles ago back in Boise. Being able to do most tasks and projects ourselves – now, in the past (also when sailing), and in the future – saves us a lot of money, stress, inconvenience, distrust, and disappointment.

Camped on the property of a friend in Julian, California
Deer in the yard
Front-row seats to watch wildlife

The cost of plane tickets – nationally and internationally – has doubled compared to last year as well. It was another shock to us when we browsed tickets for Mark (and me later this summer) to fly back to Massachusetts and for me to visit my family in Belgium. We used multiple one-way tickets through inconvenient airports, with funky layovers, and without carry-on luggage (yes, that’s a thing now – “only one personal item allowed”) to make these jaunts as affordable as possible. My dear parents covered my legs to Belgium. Thank you!

Home for a couple of weeks
We had an oven – nacho time!
Ready to move locations with our (partly) new set-up

Our other expenses were normal. Before we sold it, we had to repair a couple of things on the Cirrus camper after our extensive travels on the Baja peninsula this past winter. We also thanked our hosts for their hospitality with a few items we knew they enjoyed, and shared some rum and wine with friends to ease our worries a bit.

One hour of fun: visiting Shoshone Falls in the town of Twin Falls, Idaho, before dropping our Cirrus camper off
It was a beautiful day

Our entertainment in May was free and comprised a one-hour stop at the magnificent Shoshone Falls in the town of Twin Falls, Idaho (usually $5 parking fee per car, but the kiosk was closed during our morning, weekday stop), before dropping the Cirrus camper off with its new owners and a quick visit of Idaho’s capitol in Boise, the day we left the area.

On the day we left Boise, we hopped over to the capitol
I am fascinated by capitol buildings in this country and want to see – and photograph – them all!

Getting a cashier’s check to pay for a big-ticket item, like a used truck camper, costs $15 with Bank of America. While it’s not that much, costs like these annoy us. The same with fees for administrative dealings, although the time, energy, and hassle involved are obviously more intrusive.

One-night stop along a street in Lodi, CA, on our drive north – not the quietest place….
Boondocked in Tahoe National Forest, CA on the way to Boise, ID.
Our first encounter with snow in a looong time (it wouldn’t be our last)
We managed to go for a nice, yet short, walk from our “campsite”
Second stop between Auburn, CA, and Boise, ID, at Antelope Reservoir (OR) – it was a long drive
Another cold and rainy night at Antelope Reservoir – familiar terrain now
Boondocked in a national forest in eastern Oregon on the long drive from Boise, ID, to the Portland area.

We didn’t spend anything on accommodation or camping, laundry, water, or electricity in May; something we are very thankful for. Hurray for friends – and family – in troubled times!

Home for the time being
Maya loved it in St. Helens and was spoiled with walks, treats, and attention

May 2022 Overview:

Car (fuel: $1,206; ins.: $154; maint.: $30):

Travel (flights):

Groceries:

Cirrus camper (ins.: $23; repairs: $110):

Gifts:

Utilities (internet):

Dining out:

Alcohol:

Banking (cashier’s check):

Household:

Clothing (flip flops Mark):

Customs & Immigration:

Drinking out:

Accommodation:

 

TOTAL:

 

$1,390

$1,013

$355

$133

$58

$35

$27

$17

$15

$11

$10

$8

$3

$0

———

$ 3,075

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Donate to Roaming About to help maintain this website.

Overwhelmed by Life (as Nomads)– A Personal Note from Oregon

June 3, 2022 / / 71 Comments

May was an insanely busy month for Mark and me. I usually post blogs about experiences we had or things we did/saw, so this one is a bit different; more personal, emotional, and recent.

Since I am so far behind with just about everything – diary entries, emails, blog posts, social media, reading, articles, administrative tasks, chores, promises, projects… – I figured I would write a “quick” update to let everyone know how we are doing and what’s been going on. And, most importantly, how nothing ever works according to plan, how life throws its punches, and how priorities shift. Several of the following events will probably turn into a longer post one of these weeks or months.

Before we left our peaceful life on the Baja peninsula in Mexico (which seems like a lifetime ago), the end of April, we had a truck camper purchase lined up. We never intended to keep the “fancy” Cirrus 820 we took across the border, hence its name Temp (T&T – Thirsty & Temp), but you never know with us. I’ll get into that train of thought; the reasons and the differences, another time. The truck – which is awesome – we’d keep.

Over the months, we narrowed our preferred camper down to a Lance 830. We searched for it online for about three months, and even spotted this model in Mexico for a closer look, before we made a deal on one in British Columbia, Canada, and set a route and plan in motion. Our base for the transition would become Boise, Idaho. A deposit had been sent to BC by check and a pick-up date arranged, once we crossed the border into the US.

The Lance 830 we spotted – and visited – in Cabo Pulmo, Baja, Mexico

Our first stop for a few days was a friend’s property in Julian, California, where we cleaned the Baja dust off our truck and camper, finished a couple of projects, wiped the interior down, and took indoor and outdoor photo shoots to list the Cirrus for sale.

Our camping spot on a friend’s property in Julian, CA, for a handful of days
Social evening with our friend Diana and her husband, Doug
Washing the truck and camper with well water on the property
Emptying one cabinet to take photos of it opened up. We kept the rest for another time.
Wiping down the interior for photo shoots
Fixing the screen door of the Cirrus

That’s where we learned the deal in Canada was not going to happen, due to unexpected circumstances on the seller’s part…

Continue reading

Swapping Truck Campers – #WordlessWednesday

May 25, 2022 / / 29 Comments

Before (Cirrus 820)

After (Lance 830)

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics, check out the travel/adventure/personal memoir I wrote:

Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary

Available on Amazon and elsewhere

eBook: US$ 5.99

Paperback: US$ 13.99

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad (mostly in Mexico) – April 2022

May 13, 2022 / / 45 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

For most of last month, Mark, Maya, and I happily kept traveling and living throughout Baja California Sur and Baja California (Norte) in Mexico, slowly making our way back “home.” After 3.5 months south of the border, we returned to the United States on April 26th, 2022,  and spent about a week in Southern California. We have covered thousands of miles since then.

Entering the state of Baja California, the northern half of the peninsula
Rows of bumps in corners to slow us down
Topes in towns are often unmarked, blended in, or fake
Back to the border – and border wall – in Tecate. The line wasn’t too long and the crossing itself was uneventful.
Back to highways and complicated road infrastructure!
And, super expensive fuel in California
That’s why we filled up in Mexico at US$4/gallon before crossing the border

Once we reached the historic town of Loreto by the end of March, we regretfully felt our time on the Baja peninsula was diminishing, as we would start making our way back to the US from there – where to, we didn’t know yet.

Camped along the dirt road to San Basilio after a failed attempt to reach the beach ten miles in
Back in Mulege, camped at our favorite spot south of the river, except, conditions change…. The humid climate (wet sand and salty air) chased us inland a bit
Our second spot to camp for a couple of nights, north of the river. This is where Katherine and Brandon “found” us

Little did we know that a couple of weeks later, a chance encounter with Katherine and Brandon in Mulege, sent us south again, back to Loreto Bay/Nopolo. Our new friends had invited us for a few days of splurging at their condo (showers, laundry, great company, a pool), which was followed by another handful of days of beach camping near town.

View from the condo’s balcony
Dinner at our friends’ condo in Loreto Bay/Nopolo
Fabulous food, drinks, and company
T&T parked near the condo building of our friends
Clean and beautiful Nopolo neighborhood
Narrow alleys in Nopolo village
Camped on the airport beach in Loreto for five nights, where I dealt with a dreadful flu

On April 22nd, we did – finally – start our long journey north and pretty much drove every day for the remainder of the month, slowly covering the 850 miles from Loreto to Julian, California, via San Diego. If you think our gas price for this jaunt in Baja was high, wait until the expense report for May comes out…

Driving north again…
…past the pretty Bahia Concepcion beaches, without stopping this time
Mission de San Ignacio
Interior of the San Ignacio Mission
Restaurant along the square in San Ignacio
Camped for the night along the shady square

We finished all the food in our fridge before crossing the border, so an extensive shopping spree was in order. Fortunately, our friend Janis made dinner in San Diego on our first evening back in the US. We had a nice time with her and her husband Paul.

One night in Mission Hills – photo taken by Janis Heppell
Meeting up with Janis and Paul in San Diego

In Baja, it was still affordable to go out for dinner, so we did this a few times, to celebrate our postponed combined birthdays at the amazing restaurant Mi Loreto and to eat fish and shrimp tacos in San Ignacio. After taking Katherine and Brandon on the incredible Mesquite Canyon hike, they were extremely generous by treating us to a delicious seafood lunch on the drive home.

Birthday dinner out at Mi Loreto
View of the Mission from Mi Loreto
Swimming through Mesquite Canyon
Seafood lunch at the “clam shack” on the beach – thank you, Brandon and Katherine
Restaurant where we had fish and shrimp tacos and a Jamaica (hibiscus) juice for me
Our last meal out in Mexico at Victor’s

Mark and I swore we would not eat out – or do take-out – anymore once we left Mexico, as inflation is hurting us, but we happily bought our friend Amy a pho on our second night in San Diego and were treated to pizza by our friend Diana, once settled for a few days on her beautiful and peaceful property in Julian, CA.

Stocking up on fresh ratone pastries in Loreto before leaving the area and the peninsula
Diana taking a selfie by the fire with Doug, Mark, and me in it

We paid for six nights at campgrounds in April – in Loreto, Playa La Perla (Bahia Concepcion), and near Ensenada on our last night in Mexico, which happened to be the least attractive and priciest stay of the bunch.

We returned to Rivera del Mar RV Park in Loreto and tried to sell our electric bikes, unsuccessfully.
Home for three nights – Playa La Perla along Bahia Concepcion
Sunrise over Bahia Concepcion
Pancake breakfast at the beach
Finally a spot to hang our hammock up again!
Walking south from La Perla
Homemade gnocchi dinner with new friends Mary and Ted
Our last night in Baja was spent at Mi Refugio in Ensenada; not our favorite

The rest of the month, we boondocked (camping without facilities) in nature for free.

Camped in an arroyo for one night after visiting Mission San Javier
Maya waits to go for a walk
Cactus in bloom
One of our last nights in Baja, surrounded by cacti in Catavina

And we finally bought a souvenir – a handmade Mexican blanket. We’d been keeping an eye out for one and gauging prices at a few markets to get a feel for what they were worth. Eventually, after three months on the peninsula, we bought one from a beach vendor at a very fair price.

Our Mexican blanket, which will grace one of our dinette cushions one of these months
Parked near Mission San Javier
Mission San Javier near Loreto
Looking out through a door in the church
Surroundings of the mission

Now that we are back in the US and expect to spend thousands of dollars on camper preparations, parts, and fuel, we have to cut down on expenses in other categories. The coming months, we will avoid eating and drinking out, buying alcohol, and paying for laundry. We are fortunate to have friends in the Pacific Northwest, who will happily host us and provide services, like a level driveway, tools, water, electricity, a shower, and laundry facilities. Let the camper work and another transition begin!

Changing gears again the coming months

April 2022 Overview:

Car (fuel: $473; car soap: $6):

Groceries:

Dining out:

Utilities (internet: $40; propane: $21; water: $13):

Camping:

Alcohol:

Souvenir:

Drinking out:

Laundry:

Dog (treats):

Postage:

Household:

 

TOTAL:

 

$479

$343

$178

$74

$64

$47

$25

$12

$9

$4

$2

$1

———

$ 1,238

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Donate to Roaming About to help maintain this website.

Wet & Wild Mesquite Canyon – One of the Most Spectacular Hikes in Baja California Sur, Mexico

May 2, 2022 / / 52 Comments

A hike in Mesquite Canyon, located about an hour south of Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico, was on the agenda last year, especially after seeing photos about it on our friends Sandie and Karsten’s blog. They had told us how to get there, but our mistake was not writing down the instructions and neglecting to search for the approach on Google Map’s satellite image.

Hiking in the heat to find the trail last year – in vain

We found the correct entrance road in the spring of 2021, drove through the gravel pit area, parked, and explored two approaches on foot with Maya. One brought us to a gate, which we didn’t think allowed public access (it did) and the other gravel path brought us into the mountains after a couple of hot and rocky miles, before we believed this wasn’t right.

The gate was closed last year, so we didn’t proceed. The trail starts two miles past this point.

It was late afternoon by the time we returned to Zesty, so we spent the night in the peaceful environs of a gravel pit. Bummed, we gave up on this alleged incredible canyon hike. When we saw Sandie and Karsten again, they mentioned the trail started two miles past the gate.

Camped with Zesty near the gravel pit, last year

Needless to say, this hike in Mesquite Canyon was high on the list during our recent return trip to Baja California Sur. This time, we did enough research and were determined to find the trail. Except, it was Sunday and the access road to the canyon was blocked off. Despair and disappointment arrived.

Oh no, the access road is blocked!

Continue reading

Agua Verde – A Remote Gem & Highlight in Baja California, Mexico

April 20, 2022 / / 67 Comments

In the beginning of February, Mark, Maya, and I spent ten days on a pebble beach near Agua Verde in Baja California, Mexico. During that time, we visited this small village with our friends Duwan and Greg, in their car. Waiting for a fish taco lunch at the town’s waterfront, we spotted a protected bay with anchored boats and a sandy beach through binoculars. We decided to stop there on the drive home. Within five minutes of setting foot on that white beach and gazing at the surrounding rock formations, Mark and I concluded: “Let’s stop here for a week on our drive back north.”

Agua Verde bay

So, a good six weeks later, after we explored more of the Baja California peninsula and rounded Cabo Este, we stocked up on water, propane, and food for another nine days off the beaten path. Our first night was spent at the end of the ten-mile paved stretch of road, which then turned into dirt for another 20 miles to Agua Verde.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Sign at the entrance of the 30-mile road
Welcome back to the mountains!
Extra water to add to our tank later

The road in

Those last 30 kilometers (20 miles) of the Agua Verde road were rutted and potholed; some were steep and narrow, down a treacherous slope, where you hoped nobody arrived from the other side. This was the second time we attempted this route. Heading down and looking ahead, clouds of dust announced opposing traffic. Sometimes, I would jump out of the passenger seat to assess the situation. On the return trip, it was more difficult to see oncoming cars. We hoped they would see our dust cloud.

Heading down the hill
A steep descend
What do you mean no passing allowed?
Another sharp turn
A dust cloud tells another car is heading our way.
A truck heading our way!

At the bottom of the windy hill, the track was mostly flat but still in awful shape. The entire stretch of road, from Mex 1 (the main “highway” in Baja) to Agua Verde took us two hours and a half of being shaken. Despite our slow progress, car sickness still befell me. But it was worth it.

One-lane dirt road towards Agua Verde

Our campsite

After a last, steep descend, an empty beach opened up. We had encountered quite a bit of traffic on the drive, so we feared the place would be packed. Not so. A group of fishermen was camped for the night by the entrance of the beach and multiple sailboats peacefully swayed at anchor. We had our pick to park and chose a spot higher up. From here, we could see the protected bay on one side and the windier Sea of Cortez on the other side. Depending on shade, we moved our chairs around the camper.

First camping spot
Bedside view towards the Sea of Cortez
Bedside view towards the calm bay
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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad (in Mexico) – March 2022

April 9, 2022 / / 26 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the East Coast.

Last month, Mark, Maya, and I happily kept traveling throughout Baja California Sur in Mexico. The grocery and car expense categories battled for the top position. As to be expected, fuel burned a lot of money as we rounded and explored the southern part of the peninsula. The gas prices in Baja haven’t changed much from last year, but they are fluctuating, just like propane. In any case, these prices are less than in the US now, so we will fill all our tanks before returning.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Filling our tank when it’s close to empty is an expensive endeavor – more than US$100!!
The top price is for gasoline and one of the cheapest per liter that we have found in Baja this year
Gasoline prices in Loreto, one year ago (the top number)
Driving on rough roads is not good for the fuel economy!
Rough road downhill to Agua Verde
Rough road to one of the Pacific beaches

Our utility cost while in Mexico is higher than in the US, because we kept paying for our cheap and discontinued AT&T data plan north of the border and for internet in this country. We also pay for drinking water now and keep having to fill our propane tanks to run our fridge and cook. We can’t wait to get a compressor fridge that works on electricity, which we have plenty of thanks to our solar panels.

Free camping along Camino Cabo Este
Parked for the night at Playa Palmilla in San Jose del Cabo
An entire arroyo, just for us
Boondocked along the road to Agua Verde
Parked in a free public lot in La Paz again, for a couple of nights
Camped at El Canejo beach
One of our favorite free campsites in Baja California

As always, most of our camping spots were free and attractive.

We stumbled upon an international triathlon in La Paz
Baby turtles ready to be released
Turtle release after sunset in Todos Santos
Hiking above Agua Verde
Hiking with friends of the furry kind
Beach walks with Maya
Hiking in Mesquite Canyon, worthy of a separate blog post…

Just like lots of activities we enjoy: witnessing a triathlon in La Paz and a turtle release in Todos Santos, hiking, bird watching, beach and town strolling, hanging out with friends, snorkeling, watching sunrise and sunset.

Van pizza made by Greg and Duwan and eaten with them and our new friend, Gehn
Snorkeling in Agua Verde
Even Maya made new friends: Delilah and Pyros…
… and Lola, the beach dog, of course.

In March we did stay at a couple of pay campgrounds (south of El Pescadero and in Loreto), ordered a part for our awning (which was shipped to a friend in San Diego, CA), and cooked more meals than in February.

Camped for a few nights in Rivera Del Mar RV Park, Loreto
Dinner out with friends, Greg, Duwan, and Gehn in Todos Santos
Delicious fish tacos in Todos Santos – the cheapest we’ve bought in Baja
Homemade pizza in the truck camper of our new friends, Deb and Andy, who have an oven!!!
Sharing a fabulous homemade pizza with Deb and Andy on our beach in Agua Verde
Mark made the most delicious tortilla soup for dinner one evening – with fabulous toppings!

There were also a few smaller expenditures: laundry, new flipflops and a quarterly blood test for Mark (did you notice how cheap these are in Mexico?), a small turtle souvenir for me, and a bone for Maya. All in all, not a bad month…

Walking around Todos Santos
Hotel in Todos Santos
Sunset in Agua Verde
Sunset over the Pacific Ocean, which has bigger waves than the Sea of Cortez
Another sunset over the Pacific Ocean

March 2022 Overview:

Groceries:

Car (fuel: $233; car wash: $5):

Utilities (internet: $68; propane: $40; water: $15; dump: $5):

Dining out:

Alcohol:

Camping:

Camper (repairs):

Laundry:

Clothing:

Medical (blood test Mark):

Miscellaneous (souvenir):

Dog (treat):

 

TOTAL:

 

$244

$238

$128

$72

$36

$30

$22

$11

$10

$6

$5

$4

———

$ 806

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Sunset over the Pacific Ocean through a cactus

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