While we were camped at a peaceful lake in Central Chile, snow was predicted in the mountains, where the border stations are located. Since Maya’s international health permit was expiring soon, we needed to prevent getting stuck because of road or frontier closures. So, at the end of March, Mark, Maya, and I left Chile with no intention to return. Unless we decide to sell our truck camper in Santiago, its capital, whenever we are done with this adventure.
Loncopué
Entering Argentina for the last time was smooth, but involved a lot of bumpy roads and disappointing campsite hunts for one reason or another; the strong winds, incessant traffic noise, and an anxious Maya being the main culprits. We encountered countless sleepless nights on our drive north.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
When we moved to a different town and found a relatively peaceful, wind-protected, and grassy spot among the herds and shepherds moving their animals from their summer grounds in the Andes Mountains to the winter valleys and farms, we felt better. It was cool to be a part of “the pack.”
Here are two videos to get a better feel of the camping scene:
Caviahue
Then, it was time for an unexpected highlight in Argentina. Caviahue contained a few attractions based on our resources, but it was located at an even higher elevation, meaning it would freeze at night. Since this causes condensation and discomfort issues, we wanted to keep our time there to a minimum and managed to complete all our excursions within 24 hours.
First, we drove to this fascinating, beautiful, and diverse area and hiked along a clear lake to a stone bridge. Erosion had impacted the volcanic rock here, creating this natural arch.
Then, we reached and admired patches of monkey puzzle trees. Also called Araucaria (or Pehuen in the local language), it is the national tree of Chile and of the Argentinian province, Neuquén, where we found ourselves.
Our little group followed a well-maintained trail past multiple waterfalls and through the monkey puzzle tree forests. We ate lunch by the largest of the falls and watched in amazement how shepherds and their goats navigated the river just above the falls.
We had read it was possible to continue walking upriver. In the absence of a path, we followed goat trials and clambered over boulders to get to our final waterfall, which we had to ourselves.
A short drive brought us to another trail, climbing up and around a natural wall of rock. We observed more monkey puzzle trees and eventually reached a hidden lagoon, Laguna Escondida, where peace fell over us. Since we didn’t have that much time left in the day, we had to keep moving.
We descended along the same trail and drove deeper into the mountains to find a geothermal area at the base of pretty, snow-capped Volcano Copahue.
We left Maya in the car for our explorations here and gazed at the bubble pools, mud holes, and steaming fumeroles. An incredible area!
While there were many feasible places to camp in this natural playground, we decided to push towards our intended highlight, the Agrio waterfall, arriving by 6pm, just before dark. We knew morning light on a sunny day was the best time to visit this attraction, but we couldn’t help sneaking a peek before the sun set. Indeed, the lighting was terrible.
Because we spent the night here, we could indulge in long, enjoyable views – and photo shoots – in the morning. Since the days are getting shorter, the best time for photography in this area was between 10am and 11am. As you can see in the photos, the shadows were already starting to grow by noon.
Still, we had planned our visit around a sunny day (very important) and were really impressed with this site, taking in the different lighting. I can honestly say that this is one of the prettiest waterfalls I have ever seen. Mark agrees.
After taking our time admiring Salto del Agrio, we left this region and the mountains, heading north towards Mendoza. But first, we needed to bounce on washboard roads for another day. Running the heater so much at night and having managed a month with half a tank of propane, we needed a refill as well, which worked out in Chos Malal, at a much better price than Bariloche.
Sleepless nights along the “highway” and two days of driving followed. Ruta 40 was mostly paved, but there was a two-hour stretch that rattled us into frustration. By now, Mark and I (and Maya) had had it with gravel roads on which we averaged ten miles per hour (15km/h). We needed a break. With good asphalt and fun times. Luckily for us, this was in the cards. Well, we’d planned for it. 🙂
Pareditas
After a day of errands, we reached a cloudy, chilly, and quiet area by a river, about 85 miles (130km) south of Mendoza. Here, we met up with our US friends, Heather and Jon from VermonsterRV. Coincidentally, about a year ago, we’d reunited in the same general area. This meant we’d already explored the interesting sites together in May 2024 and were at a bit of a loss as where to go and stay for our week together, before parting ways in Mendoza.
Since being in their company was the main goal, it didn’t really matter where we’d camp as long as it was comfortable enough and they could go for long hikes. We stayed in Pareditas for a few nights, to chat, share awesome meals and wine, and explore the area on foot. But it was still frigid, during the day and night. The mountains offer peace and solitude, but sleeping required a heater.
Manzano Historico
The five of us returned to Manzano Historico, with a stop at the park and ice cream shop of Tunuyán.

While eerily quiet and covered in snow, a year ago, the relaxed village of Manzano Historico was booming with local tourists when we drove through again, now on a Sunday. After some trial and error, we found a relatively quiet and private wild camping spot for the next few days.
Here, we repeated our entertaining happy hours, laughs, chats, walks, and shared cooking abilities. Mark and I managed to get work done, when our friends set off on extended hikes. It was so nice to hang out with like-minded adventurers who have been on a similar path than us, sailing and camping, in the last two decades.
On the day we drove to Maipu, we stopped at our favorite winery on this continent. Last year, we had recommended Giaquinta in Tupungato to our friends and it became their preferred wine as well, so we had to swing by and “stock up” again. Prices had doubled in a year, but it was still worth it.
Maipu
Other friends of ours recently bought property in Maipu, Argentina, work there now, and are preparing to run a campground. They’d asked us to “house sit” for five days in April, so they could go camping with family from Switzerland. Mark and I agreed to help out and take advantage of that time to use the comforts of a home and yard, namely to do laundry, wash the truck and camper, perform another oil change, work in peace, and take pressurized hot showers.
Since this family were mutual friends, Mark, Maya, Heather, Jon, and I first stopped by for a short visit, providing meat, side dishes, and wine. Our host grilled the food as an asado, Argentinian style.
Mendoza
Mark, Maya, and I spent a weekend at San Martin Park in Mendoza, a place we really enjoy walking around in with our dog. It’s big, grassy, and diverse, but – like last year – we didn’t sleep well because of the commotion of cars racing each other on the park lanes and loud, muffler-less motorcycles cruising by all night long. Some vehicles honked at our camper for good measure. That – and our favorite bakery being closed – had us leave Mendoza sooner than expected.

Back to Maipu
Unfortunately, the “property sit” for our European friends didn’t work out in the end, so we changed plans and did all our camper and truck errands at a nearby campground instead. That’s where we said our goodbyes to Jon and Heather as well. We hope to see them again, on this continent, later this year.
One highlight of our time together was a fancy meal at a Michelin-star restaurant. Yes, it was very pricy (see my upcoming expense report for April), but it was an interesting, tasty, fun, and unique experience. And the perfect conclusion to our social times with good friends.
After one last stock up, Mark, Maya, and I headed northeast in Argentina and started what felt like a new chapter.

A little, yet incredible, side story
One night, Jon, Heather, Mark, and I were talking about a mutual sailing friend of ours, Axel from Germany who lives in Auckland, New Zealand, with his Kiwi wife and family. Some readers might remember him from my book, Plunge. He was the photographer at our wedding party in St. Martin, he generously gifted us his spinnaker sail before we entered the Pacific Ocean, and we visited him in New Zealand, which led to us eventually quitting our sailing life on Irie.
Mark and I were also line handlers on his boat, when he crossed the Panama Canal. And here is where things got interesting. Heather said: “We were tied up to Axel’s boat in the Panama Canal.” Me: “Wait a minute, we were ON Axel’s boat in the Panama Canal!” Could it be that we actually traveled next to each other going through the locks, that many years ago?
I couldn’t wait to get on my computer and dig around my photo archive of “Panama Canal Crossing on Gudrun” (Axel’s sailboat) in 2012. Sure enough… There they were… Heather and Jon, line handling on the boat in the middle, tied up to Gudrun and going through the Canal with us. We could have met thirteen years ago!!! How crazy is this? They became friends with Axel in Panama City after completing their own Panama Canal crossing. Mark and I would go through on our sailing catamaran, Irie, a year later.
Next up: Our monthly expense report for April 2025
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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