Mark, Maya, and I would meet our Vermonster friends Heather and Jon in Tupungato, where we’d spent a few chilly nights previously, and travel together through Atuel Canyon and San Rafael for a week or two. If I complained about the cold in a previous blog post, well, winter seemed to have arrived early. That’s when living in a poorly insulated, solar-powered camper becomes less enjoyable.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Tupungato
After hugging our friends from Meat Around The World goodbye in Mendoza, our trio drove back south to Tupungato. We would have loved to meet Heather and Jon at Bodega Giaquinta to buy more wine, but the new, restricted opening times didn’t fit our schedule, so we returned to the municipal campground. Our friends would buy extra wine and meet us there.
We parked in the same spot, were accompanied by the same, wagging dogs, and enjoyed more walks among the fall colors. But, by now, it was way too cold and cloudy to sit outside or walk to the shower block. We used our own amenities, filled up with drinking water afterwards, and managed to plug into the electric system of our friends. This allowed our Lithium battery to finally charge to 100% – a huge help – which hadn’t happened in six months or so!
It was wonderful to see our friends again and spend more time together. On this first evening, Mark made ossobuco and squash risotto for the group. Delicious!
Manzano Historico
It was grey and it was cold, so we weren’t in a rush to explore the canyon yet. On the drive to Manzano Historico, we made a brief stop at Bodega Azul. We managed a little wine tasting and bought a couple of bottles of wine (Mark and I really like their Chardonnay), but the place was expensive and fully booked for lunch, so the atmosphere wasn’t ideal. We moved on early afternoon.
Little did we realize our next destination was even higher up… That dawned on us when I saw all the roofs in town were white and wondered why. Snow! To our horror, the picnic tables were covered with the white stuff when we pulled into the municipal campground. We needed the heater here during the day as well.
For our afternoon walk, the winter coats and gloves came out for the first time in 1.5 years on this South American journey and I wore two wool hats. It felt novel and fun at first! Our group hiked up to the statue of San Martin, played with the colorful leaves, and checked out the local museum. Nobody was around.
Then, we insistently hunted down Los Camilos, a family business that made and sold crudo, raw (dried) meat. We splurged on a few items that – together with the extra case of wine from Giaquinta – would be consumed with our friends.
That night, they invited us over for a wonderful meal, starting with a smoked salmon appetizer. The main dish consisted of paella and we finished with ice cream!!! Together with the good company and shared stories, this was a sublime evening. Maya behaved at home.
El Nihuil Reservoir
The last stop before our canyon adventure was a chilly reservoir, which Mark, Maya, and I reached after a detour to Tunuyan to fill our one propane tank. With the cold weather, the heater had consumed much more than usual and our gauge showed empty. Unbeknownst to us, the guy only sold butane, which would cause a serious issue later on.
Filling our tank with the wrong gas (butane instead of propane), holding a cigarette!
By the reservoir, we discovered a friendly, but skinny dog without a home. Seeing him on his chilly, grassy perch was heartbreaking. In the evening, at exactly the same moment, Heather and I came out of our campers to feed the dog scraps. It was more proof of how we are on the same page with so many things; kindred spirits. We also shared our sadness for this dog. Of all the strays we had encountered so far, this white one really pulled at our heartstrings.
In the morning, we woke up with fog, but once that cleared, a brilliant blue sky presented itself and we couldn’t have asked for better weather the week ahead!
Canyon del Atuel
The idea was simple: we would drive the dirt road through this canyon at a leisurely pace and stop wherever something looked – or sounded – interesting. We gazed at the rock formations, paused by particular views, and walked to absorb the fall colors.
Heather and Jon are keen hikers, so whenever they get a chance to stretch their legs, especially in side canyons, they jump on the occasion. Mark, Maya, and I gladly obliged.
That first late afternoon, we checked out another one of those side canyons, liked what we saw, and opted to camp there. Once the sun disappeared, coldness set in fast! Another wonderful dinner was shared in Bella that evening.
The following morning and onward, Mark set the alarm clock at 7am. He was tired of getting up late and losing a big chunk of the day, because of the cold mornings and delayed appearance of the sun (usually around 9am). This meant we could do a couple of hours of work before the fun times with our friends. In this particular canyon, however, the sun didn’t pop out until 1pm!
We followed an old gravel road up the mountain, revealing pretty scenery and scattering chinchillas. Once we reached the “sun line,” we could shed a few items of clothing.
I also followed the reservoir while the sun was in the ideal spot for reflections. This place grew on us fast as well as the quietness this time of the year. Spending two nights in the same place, allowed us to slow down a little bit.
Our two vehicles returned to the canyon road for more photo and walking stops. Fall was in full swing as we explored this area.
The main destination was a side canyon Heather and Jon discovered on their bike ride the previous day. They are super adventurous when it comes to exploring by foot, bushwhacking, and scaling rocks to keep following a wash. The three of us followed suit, having to haul and lower Maya with her harness and leash a few times.
Jon had his sights set on a copper green rock formation, so we climbed there next for wonderful views and photo opportunities. We even saw a condor swoop underneath us from very close by. Cool stuff!
Towards the end of the day, we stopped by a couple of viewpoints over Valle Grande Reservoir. The light wasn’t ideal, but we still enjoyed the picturesque surroundings.
That night, we camped on a concrete slab with wide open skies for sunshine until “late”. A fox visited us but remained at a distance.
Our walk the next morning defined a loop along the reservoir and back to the campers, all on paved roads. Despite it being Sunday morning (we shared a pancake breakfast before), it was relatively calm. The cold weather might have been a cause.
We stopped by another canyon that, of course, had to be explored. The five of us set out for a second hike that day, and climbed up and up the dry river bed, discovering cool rock formations and plants.
It was to be the last meal with our friends inside one of our campers, but we didn’t know that yet. Heather and Jon had us over for another wonderful appetizer and dinner, while Maya showed disapproval at home by eating the cardboard flaps of the box containing extra wine bottles and chewing a hole in one of her sturdy dogfood bags (a first!), eating who knows how much kibble. She drank water all night and the next day, requiring plenty potty breaks!
San Rafael
In San Rafael, we planned on camping in the big city park. Our free app iOverlander presented a few options, but when Mark and I showed up, nothing was appealing, between the shady trees and the noisy traffic. Both rigs temporarily settled in a sunny spot to charge the batteries.
Camping spot in San Rafael – While pretty, this park was very busy and loud
When walking through town, Jon and Heather shared their worries about returning to Chile. The Los Libertadores Pass had been closed for days and they needed to get across soon to prep and store their camper and catch a flight to the US from Santiago. They preferred to move back to Uspallata as a base, so they could take the first opportunity to cross the border. Of course, we understood. This weather-controlled lifestyle started to resemble our – and their – sailing years more and more!
Statue and main plaza in San Rafael
Mark and I had hoped to celebrate their 30th wedding anniversary with them on May 21st, but when it became clear they would leave that morning, we tried to make the previous evening – our last one together – somewhat special. We invited Heather and Jon over for a “full bar” and light snacks, before going out for a nice dinner together.
Hanging out with Jon and Heather on their 30th anniversary
Both couples settled on a Tomahawk meal, which consisted of a massive slab of beef on the bone (lucky dog), two side dishes, and a bottle of house wine. Maya was welcome and rested under the table (as always in these situations). Her good behavior warranted compliments from our friends, who had only seen her get into trouble the last handful of days.
It was the perfect evening to conclude our week with Heather and Jon. In the morning, we shared a last walk together and bid each other farewell, hoping to meet again on this continent. Mark and I stayed one more day for errands and work, before our eastbound progress to Buenos Aires, Argentina’s capital.
Waving goodbye to our friends, after a week of traveling together
Next up: Buenos Aires, Argentina’s capital city.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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June 14, 2024 at 17:54
You have so many other nomadic friends. I didn’t realize how many people lived the same lifestyle you and Mark have chosen. Your pictures are always great, but you took some spectacular shots this time.
June 19, 2024 at 14:31
Hi Pete,
Yes, there are more of us traveling the world than most people realize. And, definitely way more than when Mark and I first left the US in an RV in 2006. That was before terms like “overlanders”, “boondocking”, “vanlife”, and “digital nomads” existed, haha.
Back then, we would drop everything when another camper approached us and hang out and exchange information, no questions asked. Now, a wave when passing another camper in South America is often the extension of our communications.
Because of the huge amount of vanlifers down here, the focus of travel and why has changed. Much revolves around Instagram moments and YouTube videos. Needless to say, there are actually few couples that we truly connect with and – to be honest – we seem to have more in common with people closer to our age as well, preferring their company.
June 14, 2024 at 19:10
Beautiful scenery and great friends… what more could you want? (Okay, maybe you could want several extra degrees of warmth.) 🙂
June 19, 2024 at 14:33
Haha, Janis! It’s ironic that we left the continent to find warmer weather. Of course, there are other reasons for our “camper break.” But, you are right: spending time in this beautiful area with good friends ticked many boxes! 🙂
June 15, 2024 at 03:04
Oh, that poor dog 🙁 It’s heartbreaking when you see animals in so much need and there’s so little you can do to help.
It sounds like you had a wonderful time with friends – something so often missing with this lifestyle!
Do you have a battery to battery charger? We found that a game changer for the periods of ‘solar anxiety’!
I’m already worried about your butane…
Thanks for sharing – the scenery definitely looks worth braving the cold for!
June 19, 2024 at 14:38
Hi Jackie,
We wish we could pick up random dogs and give them a good home, but it’s just impossible based on the sheer amount of them, our lack of space, the regulations, … You know all about that, I’m sure.
I had a friend ask me “Why don’t you pick up these kinds of dogs and drop them off at a shelter?” Well, there are none of those where we travel. I just wish that puppies got spayed and neutered from the moment they are old enough. That would be a first step towards the massive stray population. Sigh.
I wrote the story about the butane fiasco in my expense report of May 2024. In case you are interested: https://www.roamingabout.com/monthly-expenses-of-a-nomad-in-south-america-may-2024-argentina/
And, yes, we do have a DC-DC charger and have been running our engine daily the last two months on the road. It’s chewing through our gasoline. 🙁 Mark actually ordered a stronger one for our return, which will charge twice as fast. That, and the fact that the days will get longer, should suffice for our trip in Patagonia.
June 15, 2024 at 10:56
Great photos guys.
June 19, 2024 at 14:38
Thanks, Susan. It was a nice area.
June 15, 2024 at 11:05
Heather and Jon are obviously fine friends. I enjoyed the scenery this time as always, but even more so your good times around the table.
I hope your time in Newburyport is refreshing for body and soul, and the weather is agreeable. It’ll be a huge change!
June 19, 2024 at 14:44
Hi Marian,
We throughly enjoyed hanging out with Jon and Heather and in somewhat of an extensive way. We usually don’t travel with other people and meet them on occasion. But, with these two, we couldn’t get enough. 🙂 It was nice to share meals, wine, and hikes. Kindred spirits. A rare thing.
The weather in Newburyport has been lovely. Right now, it’s hot and humid (mid nineties), but that’ll only last three days. No complaints. Plus, we have a climate-controlled room. I’m soaking up the comfort and luxury, you can bet on that.
June 15, 2024 at 15:00
Brrr! Those were some chilly-looking photos. The blue sky was beautiful, though – it’s funny how that deep vivid blue only seems to show up in the fall when it’s cold!
June 19, 2024 at 14:46
Hi Diane,
I love, love, love blue skies. So much so that I almost don’t want to take photos of buildings, attractions, and natural sites when the sky is grey. Because nothing looks good in grey! But, of course, I still want photos as memories, so I grumble, complain about the bad lighting, and snap the shots for the records. 🙂 When the sky is blue, I am in photography heaven. As long as it’s not too hot and humid, haha.
June 16, 2024 at 12:53
How amazing was your trip through the canyon!
I’m glad Maya is making friends. I was afraid that after her bad interactions with street dogs she might be a little skittish. I love seeing her have a good time.
I hate the cold. And snow is always so surprising. Well, it was for me when we were in Colorado, even though it shouldn’t have been. I think we have spent so many years avoiding it, I had just forgotten that there are places where it snows a lot.
Love the chinchilla and the fox! And the fun group photo of the 5 of you.
Hope all is well in the US!
June 19, 2024 at 14:53
Hi Duwan,
While the scenery wasn’t exactly mind blowing, we throughly enjoyed our canyon drive and trip for the combination of other factors – sunny skies, fall colors, awesome company, fun activities, and good food and wine. Talk about a perfect mix!
You are so right about the snow. It looks nice on photos and when people talk about their winters, we do understand. Yet, when we are a part of it, it surely becomes a reality. Especially since it’s not just a snowy patch on the top of a mountain or pass that makes up a small part of the day.
We haven’t come across much wildlife lately, so it was nice to see the chinchillas, the fox, and some cool birds in Buenos Aires lately. I’m glad you’ve been successful spotting pajaros in the cities. You’ll like the “cock of the rock” if/when you make it to Jardin. 🙂
June 17, 2024 at 13:50
Well, the one thing Carmen and I ALWAYS try to avoid is the cold white stuff you encountered in Manzano Historico. When we do find ourselves in that situation, our propane usage goes crazy high and we have to find a nearby, if possible, place to purchase more. If the weather is fine, a propane tank can last a month for us. The white dog tore at our hearts. The photos with the water reflections were beautiful. You two are more adventurous than we are when it comes to bouldering. Glad you were able to spend some quality time with Heather and Jon. I love their rig.
June 19, 2024 at 14:57
Hi Jim,
Jon and Heather built their own overland camper in the back of an old fire truck from Europe. It is immaculate, modern, comfortable, and amazing inside. This is their “forever” rig, so they’ll most likely take it around the world.
We made some changes and conversions to our camper before leaving the US, to avoid needing a lot of propane, since it’s a pain in the ass to source. We changed our propane fridge into an electric one, for example, also because we only have one 20-pound tank. In normal weather, that lasts us three months. When we need it for heat in freezing temperatures, that’s another story!
June 17, 2024 at 22:03
I’m still laughing at Maya getting into mischief and pigging out on kibble and cardboard. Lol. Looks like a fabulous time had by all. Great when you can hook up with friends. <3
June 19, 2024 at 14:59
Hi Debby,
We have a troubled and troublesome rescue dog, but she has come such a long way and is having the best life! As someone else mentioned: Why are we spending a lot of money on quality fish-based dog food for our allergy-prone dog, while her favorite “food” is cardboard, scraps, and grass.. You wonder. 🙂
June 19, 2024 at 15:05
Maya is the luckiest dog to have you both. And duh, what a dumb thing to say. You care about your dog and don’t want her to get sick, that’s why you feed her properly. Cardboard is merely here entertainment. 🙂 xx
June 19, 2024 at 15:10
Haha. I’m sure that statement was meant as a joke. That being said, Maya would also do okay as a stray (food wise, not mentally), because then she could eat whatever she finds without getting yelled it. She is so weird/hungry/desperate that she still finds “edibles” where strays roam, like in Mexico or South America. As a matter of fact, I’ve had it happen many times that I hand a loose/stray dog one of Maya’s treats and they don’t care for it. They are used to raw meat and bones and seem to prefer those.
June 18, 2024 at 11:13
Lovely post as usual. I agree–the stray dogs break my heart, and there’s really nothing you can do. Not with all the tests and licenses they require crossing borders.
June 19, 2024 at 15:13
Thanks, Jacqui. Yeah, the stray dogs, especially the needy ones like this white one, tug hard on our heartstrings. Maybe if we wouldn’t have a dog already, we’d consider rescuing one or two. But you are right. All the shots and paperwork would take ages to complete. Plus, traveling with dogs is more challenging than without, so I have to respect other campers not saving one along the way. Some people do, though. They are angels!
June 21, 2024 at 21:03
Beautiful photos at the Canyon and friendship, Liesbet. I hope you’re enjoying summer weather in MA.
June 26, 2024 at 10:06
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reading and commenting. We had a super nice time in the canyon and lucked out with the weather. The combination of sightseeing, sunshine, friends, and good food and drinks can’t be beat! 🙂 Summer in MA has been nice as well, with just a handful of hot and humid days so far. I hope Toronto is treating you well!
June 26, 2024 at 07:34
Ice cream for dinner in that cold climate, Liesbet? However, storing ice cream in those temperatures must have been easy. I’ve heard of people defrosting their freezers in the winter months to store the contents outside in sub-zero temperatures.
My heart went out to that stray dog. All alone there. How sad. I guess these strays survive on scraps from visiting tourists, but the winter months must be challenging for them, given the lack of people. Were there any other stray dogs to keep it company?
I can’t ever recall reading any posts of you guys travelling in such cold weather. You mentioned that thirsty Bella is not well insulated, so must get very cold inside. I hope you have plenty of warm blankets to help and that there is no chances of any frozen pipes that may burst.
June 26, 2024 at 10:18
Hi Hugh,
Our friends have a freezer in their camper, which always contains two flavors of ice cream. They have higher living standards than us, haha. They also have a washer and dryer, a separate shower stall (so their entire bathroom doesn’t get wet like ours), and higher quality amenities.
This white stray dog was all alone, which made it extra sad. We wondered if he had been “banned” from town by the other loose dogs, but this didn’t seem to be the case as he followed our group everywhere. To be honest, I don’t know how he survives as there weren’t many houses around and tourists, other than campers, don’t seem to come to this spot often. The best day for strays is Sunday, because that’s when every Argentinian family grills food in public spaces.
Yes, it was cold inside our “crappy camper,” but usually, our heater takes care of that. The bigger issue that we faced in these frigid temperatures was condensation, which then drops down everywhere (and frightens Maya) and produces mold. I elaborate on that in my upcoming blog post.
Frozen pipes are a worry, but only when we don’t live in our camper, because our heater has ducts in the “basement,” where the tanks are located. So, when we left Thirsty Bella in Argentina for our “summer escape” a couple of weeks ago, we winterized it by emptying all the tanks and lines to prevent them and any fittings from bursting.