After our time in Quito, Mark, Maya, and I had less than a week left, before Mark would fly out of Ecuador for seventeen days.
June stops in Northern Ecuador
We contemplated traveling to Amazonia/El Oriente, the jungle in the eastern part of the country, but soon realized we’d need more time for that massive detour and unique experience. So, we headed west, to Mindo.
Mindo
Mindo is a popular destination for travelers alike, especially backpackers and families. While the town is nothing special, activities in nature abound. From tubing to hiking; from cable cart riding to ziplining. We found a decent place to camp for free near the center of town, which allowed us to splurge at some of the western-style restaurants.
We also moved to a riverside spot for one night, to be able to sleep better, but since there was no cell signal, we couldn’t stay long.
Our main reason to come this way was a hike in the jungle among a plethora of waterfalls. Mindo is at a much lower elevation than we have been used to in Ecuador. At only 4,000ft (1,200m) above sea level, the climate turned hot and humid, yet still very rainy. It’s the perfect place to grow mold and we can’t quite see the attraction of living there. Is that why so many properties are for sale?
In tourist towns, everything is more expensive. The usual way to reach the park with the waterfalls is via two cable carts, in which Maya was allowed. The lower one was pricey; the second one was included in the waterfall trail walking fee of $5 a person. Since the entrance to the park is quite the hike up and our camper couldn’t fit over the bridge to get there, we paid for a single cab ride.
Then, we discovered the second cable car was closed due to maintenance. This made our intended hike up and down in a hot climate even longer and my chance of a migraine bigger. We took it easy and I skipped the last set of falls on this 4-mile trail. I was grateful that the cable cart was fixed for the ride back, since we also walked the last two miles, downhill, to our camper.
Pululahua Crater
We made a quick stop in Calacali for another equator view and photo. Unlike others, this site is free and the adjacent park was pretty and quiet.
Then, we kept climbing to around 10,000ft (3,000m) again, to enter the Pululahua Reserve. From there, it took about 45 minutes to descend the narrow, dirt road to the bottom of this extinct volcano, 1,000ft below. The entire time, Thirsty Bella was surrounded by fog and we didn’t have any views.
Once settled along one of the roads in this tiny hamlet (after begrudgingly having to back down a curvy road for half a mile when a massive truck approached from the opposite direction), the three of us enjoyed our peaceful, two-day stay tremendously. We felt so far removed from anywhere else, down in this crater.
Dogs are technically not allowed, but yet we were greeted and barked at by tons of roaming canines. The few local, indigenous people that still live here – all older – were friendly, but none of the establishments were open. Pululahua is a weekend destination and we had arrived – happily – during the week.
Cell service surrounded by green cliffs was spotty, so we enjoyed exploring the valley as well as the crater wall. The weather was cloudy, misty, and rainy, but we managed to get some views after climbing 500ft up two of the trails with Maya. Taking her down the varying dirt roads, past bucolic fields and properties was a joy in itself; a step back in time.
After leaving the crater, we stopped at a viewpoint with our car. Again, Maya was not allowed – and this time, the rule was enforced, despite local dogs being present (upon questioning this, we were told that only “tourist dogs” are not welcome) – so this was just a quick photo opportunity. It gave us a very different sense and perspective of the place than from down below.
Ibarra
Mark and I checked out a few camping options, before I decided to spend my alone time on the driveway of our friends Graham, Amalia, daughter Leah, and abuela (grandmother) Ada. I knew in my heart that Maya and I would probably end up here, when they invited us back after an initial five-day stay in May. We managed to get Thirsty Bella relatively level on boards, dropped Mark off at the airport of Quito, and I settled into family and Ibarra life.
During the 2.5 weeks that Mark returned to Massachusetts, USA, for medical, family, and friends visits, I kept very busy in Ibarra, mostly working on my writing, pitching articles and ideas, proofreading, blogging, book promotion, social media presence, and “spring” cleaning the interior of our car and camper. I was super grateful I could use the washing machine and shower from the house, hang out with the family dogs Dingo, Rose, and Jack, and wander about the beautiful and expansive property at will with Maya.
Negatives were the frequent fireworks, especially during the weekends (our dog hates them) and not being able to walk Maya outside the property due to aggressive dogs and uneven cobblestone streets. One day, I took her on the bus for an hour, to hike the 10km (6-mile) circular loop around Laguna Yahuarcotcha. We’d picked the hottest day to do this, plus returning to the bus stop required a steep climb, so my head wasn’t too happy after the effort.
I also immersed myself in the local culture and language (Amalia and Ada only speak Spanish) and participated in a few family activities. Time flew by fast!
When Mark returned, we focused on car projects, I did one more load of laundry to start “fresh,” we filled our water tank with potable water, and then, early July, we hit the Ecuadorian road again. By then, we had decided to not extend our tourist visa and stick to the allotted three months. One of those months had been spent on Graham’s driveway in Ibarra!
Because Mark left the country, he is allowed to stay two more weeks in Ecuador than me – and our car. I actually took the long bus ride to the border with Colombia one day, in an attempt to return to Ecuador on my Belgian passport (instead of the American one I’d been using), to reset my three-month visa, so I could also stay those two extra weeks. But my attempt failed. Colombian immigration, as well as the Ecuadorian office, requires use of the passport that contains the exit stamp of its neighbor…
All this is to say that we only had four weeks left to cover the biggest chunk of the country after leaving Ibarra. Stay tuned for more Ecuadorian experiences and explorations!
Until next time!!!
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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July 21, 2023 at 15:02
You seem happier in Ecuador than in Colombia for some reason; maybe you feel safer. I used to enjoy tubing and hiking. Now I’d choose sightseeing, photographing the waterfalls and sampling some of the restaurants you describe. I had to smile at your creative effort to reset your visa.
Stay safe as you explore!
July 22, 2023 at 15:32
Hi Marian,
Ecuador has been interesting. Initially, we felt more at ease than in Colombia and the roads are definitely better and wider, but there is an underlying message here, every time we talk to police or even to locals, about how the country is getting less and less safe. While we haven’t had any incidents ourselves, the reports we read and hear regarding travelers and overlanders getting robbed, are escalating as well. It is one of the reasons we are not buying an extension. It’s time for something new.
July 21, 2023 at 15:13
It amazing me that you two ALWAYS manage to find a free place to camp every night. You two have the skills. And the one in Mindo was right near the center of town. Looks like Maya was having a blast at the waterfalls. I don’t know about that zip-line cable car. Hmmmmm… nope I not sure about that. ????. We have towed our Airstream up to 10,000 ft a few times in Colorado. Our Cumins diesel made it, but we had to stop a few times to let it cool down. Does your rig have that problem climbing so high? The backing up for half a mile is one of the nightmares I have. Luckily, knock on wood, it hasn’t happened to us. Interesting double standard on dogs. ????. Pico hates fireworks and we have to create as much ‘white-noise’ as we can to distract him. I enjoyed this recap. Thanks! Jim
July 22, 2023 at 15:44
Hi Jim,
The iOverlander app is our best friend – and has been for years. In the US we boondocked and free camped pretty much 100% of the time, while here, we sometimes have to pay for overnight parking, or choose to spend the night on private property. Usually, when we need to fill with potable water or it feels safer.
Camping in a town has the advantage that we can walk to a restaurant, which is a novel thing. But our preference is to camp in nature, which is quieter, but more vulnerable. Unfortunately, wild camping in the boonies seems to be less safe than in North America, based on reports and experiences.
Mark and I were just talking about how 10,000ft in the US is high. It’s probably the highest we ever drove and camped there (and it made me sick), while in Colombia and Ecuador, we are often hovering around 10,000ft driving and camping. We are in the Andes mountains after all… 🙂 Luckily, my altitude sickness has adjusted to the higher elevations.
Our F350 and its gasoline engine has had no issue climbing high so far, even with our heavy camper (which has been on the truck for every high-altitude adventure). Mark was a bit worried when we climbed the Cotopaxi volcano in Ecuador, up to 15,000ft, but the engine did great. We always go slow, though.
We are currently in an area with a lot of indigenous people, so the fireworks/homemade bottle rockets have gotten worse again. But, Maya is slightly doing better after all that “desensitizing”.
July 21, 2023 at 16:34
It’s too bad the fog obscured the views on the road to the volcano, but what a beautiful place to stay for a while. It sounds as though this part of your trip has been much more relaxing and less stressful – that must be a relief! 🙂
July 22, 2023 at 15:46
Hi Diane,
We enjoyed our first weeks in Ecuador and did feel more relaxed, after hectic Colombia. Since Mark has been back, we have felt more rushed and on edge for several reasons. Because we have a deadline now to leave the country and because people keep telling us that Ecuador is getting more dangerous. Our options to camp for free are split between busy, noisy towns, or remote areas that might be unsafe.
July 23, 2023 at 15:18
That doesn’t sound like a comfortable choice. I hope you find a more reassuring ambience in your next country!
July 24, 2023 at 12:31
We will see what Peru offers, in a week or so. It’s about time I start reading about that country, so we can plan somewhat of a route, haha.
July 21, 2023 at 17:25
I’m glad that you were able to stay with your friends while Mark was gone. Safer and more amenities. That cable car ride looks a little “iffy” but not as wackadoodle as your jump off the bridge 🙂
July 22, 2023 at 15:49
Haha, Janis. Yeah, I’d say the jump off that bridge in Banos was a bit more crazy and scary than this cable car ride. But I was super happy it ran again, as we had hiked a lot already and my energy was fading, while my worry for a headache increased. I didn’t want to descend into the ravine and then climb back up again on foot. Luckily, the last two miles of that walking adventure back to our car were downhill. 🙂
July 22, 2023 at 09:57
I love your trip pictures, but Maya is definitely a highlight. Always.
July 22, 2023 at 15:55
Your comment makes me smile, Jacqui. Maya has quite the life and adventure and I love sharing her photos with everyone. Today, though, we had to skip our visit to a national park, because she wasn’t allowed to enter. Not even in our vehicle. Ecuador is strict about that. 🙁
July 22, 2023 at 12:16
Thanks Liesbet for the virtual tour. I like the mountainous landscape in Ecuador a lot. Lots of volcanoes, lakes, hot springs and hiking opportunities.
July 22, 2023 at 15:57
Hi Natalie,
Ecuador is very diverse and packs a punch, but we do think that the scenery will keep getting more impressive and dramatic as we head further south towards Patagonia. Have a great weekend!!!
July 22, 2023 at 23:21
I just read the story of how you met each other!! How absolutely heartwarming to read!! Because I’m an Ovarian cancer survivor I’m concerned for Mark and hopeful he’s had genetic testing – my thought is that he has the BRCA1or BRCA2 genetic mutation because of the breast cancer diagnosis. I’m happy he’s healthy now but also am hoping he’s being monitored. Just paying it forward from my life’s cancer/BRCA journey.
July 23, 2023 at 09:32
Hi Kathy,
First off, I’m so happy that you have recovered from ovarian cancer. That is impressive and super fortunate. I hope you continue to live a long and healthy life.
Secondly, thank you so much for your comment and concern. You – obviously – know what you are talking about and I’m glad to report, that yes, Mark knows that his cancer was due to the gene mutation of BRCA1, he has been tested (unfortunately, he has two bad mutations, so is prone to other cancers as well), and he is closely monitored, seeing his specialist doctors once a year for tests, scans, and probing. That’s why he returns to Massachusetts every summer.
We really appreciate your kindness, wish you a fantastic summer, and hope you’ll continue to follow our adventures. 🙂
July 23, 2023 at 00:37
Another great post about your intrepid adventures, Liesbet. I have such administration for all of you willing to take on such challenges day after day!
July 23, 2023 at 09:33
Hi Annie,
Thanks for reading and for the lovely comment. This lifestyle can be challenging, as you know. Wishing you a speedy recovery. I’ll send you an email back later today.
July 23, 2023 at 06:46
Another great post, Liesbet. I’m sorry to hear Equador is less safe than it was. Is there a reason for this? I’m glad to see you stay in a safe place when you’re on your own, anyway. Where are you heading for now?
July 23, 2023 at 09:44
Hi Val,
The reasons for the increase in crime in Ecuador is multi-faceted. Based on chats with police and locals, it appears that drug trafficking is becoming worse, especially along the coast and the border with Colombia, Mexican and Colombian gangs now operate in Ecuador, and the Venezuelan refugee crises makes criminality worse as well.
We know of a few people who have been robbed in Ecuador. But we’ve also heard (and experienced) about criminal activities in Colombia. Bottom line is that South America is less safe than we expected and we have to be aware and careful, especially when boondocking.
August 6, 2023 at 11:55
I’m glad you are cautious, my dear. I’ve always thought of South America as being dangerous, especially Columbia, Venezuela, Panama and Brazil. I’m sorry Equador is also proving to be so. That’s sad! I believe Uruguay is quite safe, although I know it’s on the other side.
August 9, 2023 at 22:01
Hi Val,
I think we have to be careful, vigilant, and aware wherever we travel in Latin America. Issues and gangs move across borders and countries that were once safer than others are no more and vice versa. Of course, everything changes on a dime and often. The only country that is unsafe for us to travel, in general, is Venezuela (it used to be Colombia over a decade ago), so we don’t plan on driving there.
July 23, 2023 at 09:35
Hi Liesbet, I was relieved to read that you spent Mark’s time away in the company of friends and that your gut is telling you it’s time to move on. Stay safe out there!
July 23, 2023 at 09:47
Hi Suzanne!
It’s been a bit of a surprise to realize some areas in this country – and others – aren’t safe, so we have to plan accordingly and have skipped sites because of it. I was fortunate and glad to have the driveway of friends to stay at during Mark’s absence. They’ve become good friends, so we remain in touch.
We are currently in our last week in Ecuador, so moving countries will be exciting, especially since Peru is the first “new” country for us in a long, long time!
July 23, 2023 at 09:59
Wow. Just read your June post about mostly giving up on promoting your story while simultaneously seeing you as the top story on CNN.com! Hope to hear if new readers are now a result. I certainly am one. Just bought and finished Plunge in two days!
July 23, 2023 at 11:15
Hi Arden,
Thank you so much for swinging by and leaving a comment. And for buying and reading Plunge as well. I’m glad you enjoyed the read. If you’re up for it, please consider leaving a short review on Amazon. Doesn’t have to be long or intensive! 🙂
Yeah, the book promoting has been time consuming with little rewards. Until Friday! That was a crazy turn of events, for sure. Mark and I were interviewed by CNN just this last Tuesday, here in Ecuador. The article has been an awesome boost for my blog, Roaming About Facebook page, and my book. So, I do believe I’ve gathered a few new readers, including you, for which I’m grateful and delighted!
July 23, 2023 at 17:23
DONE! ( under my “nom d’Amazon”: Maya ( my Hebrew name).
July 24, 2023 at 12:32
Thank you so much, Arden. I appreciate it! Usually, it takes a few days to appear. I love your Hebrew name! If you’ve browsed the blog, you will know why. 🙂
July 23, 2023 at 17:47
Thank goodness for Graham and Amalia — especially with rising incidents of crime against foreigners.
I look forward to your next adventure!
July 24, 2023 at 12:34
Hi Donna,
It’s hard to get a rounded and nuanced opinion about Ecuador at the moment, for some reason. Colombia captured a spot in our hearts, despite the incidents and the horrible roads and drivers, which is strange in a way. That being said, we are currently camped in my favorite Ecuadorian town: Vilcabamba.
July 23, 2023 at 20:45
I’ve been traveling for a few days and am going through old email. I can’t read it all, but I stopped to take the time to read your post, Liesbet. I’m not sure if you’ve told us where you’re going next after Ecuador, or are you returning to the states? My wife said that the last three nights they’re still shooting off fireworks around here. Like Maya, Lulu does not respond well to loud noises. It breaks my heart to see her so frightened. Though I’m not against people having fun, they’re really should be a limit to the endless fireworks. How do the other dogs you’ve encountered get along with Maya? Seems odd to have laws about “tourist dogs” rather than all dogs. That implies tourist dogs are more problematic. Well, it’s not like our country is very welcoming to foreigners.
July 24, 2023 at 12:42
Hi Pete,
Thanks for reading my last post! I recognize the feeling of being on the road and having emails and blogs pile up in the inbox. I’m having to delete some of them in recent times as well, especially with our CNN feature this past weekend, which caused a frenzy. 🙂
Sorry to read about the fireworks. We had some here this past weekend as well. Luckily, they were the short bursts instead of homemade bottle rocket booms spread out over the entire evening.
Maya is indifferent to other dogs, but taking her for walks in towns and cities can be annoying, as a lot of loose dogs are protective and some of them aggressive as well. She’s handling it like a champ, though. When the local dogs get too crazy, the trick is to bend down and pretend to pick up a rock. That chases them off.
Most of the time, other dogs check Maya out at the rear and then move on. If that habit lasts too long, Maya sits down, until we move on. 🙂
The “tourist” dog thing is just stupid. Part of us wants to follow rules, but part of us thinks some of those rules are ridiculous. Our dog is vaccinated, clean, and taken care of, and on leash, compared to the local dogs roaming around places where dogs are supposedly not allowed.
We are heading into Peru next week. We have no intention of returning to the US.
July 24, 2023 at 20:41
Loved your mini tour you shared. It seems to me Ibarra was like a vacation for you. 🙂 I imagine your Spanish is getting real good by now! <3
July 25, 2023 at 12:01
Hi Debby,
Ibarra was actually my most productive time of the year, where I could work on my computer pretty much for two weeks straight (taking time off during the weekends to be with the family), without interruptions. It’s what I need once in a while, instead of doing a little bit here and a little bit there, when time and the lifestyle permits. Those 2.5 weeks, I managed to concentrate on many tasks I usually don’t have time for: pitching articles and stories, sending resumes off, catching up on blogs, and book promotion. 🙂
I still practice Spanish every day – on DuoLingo and in real life, but it will take a long time to get fluent…
July 25, 2023 at 12:12
I can well imagine. I know when I’m out too many days during the week I make sure to schedule a few days of full work time for those very same reasons. Some things take time and concentration, and I imagine being on the road all the time makes that difficult. Go you on the Spanish! 🙂 <3
July 26, 2023 at 10:37
You got it, Debby! I often wonder if this lifestyle we lead is busier than a traditional lifestyle. No weekends off. It sure is more challenging, but – in my opinion – more rewarding and exciting as well. Everything is a trade-off! 🙂
July 26, 2023 at 19:15
You are so right! And you should do it, as long as you can do it. When your bodies don’t want it anymore, they’ll let you know, lol. Because, yes, your lifestyle is not the leisurely, retirement life. So take it all in! <3
July 26, 2023 at 20:12
We are and we will. But, when it all gets too exhausting, I think we will rent a place somewhere for a month or so. I’m pretty tired right now, actually. We will see how Peru treats us, next week.
July 26, 2023 at 20:21
That’s a fantastic idea. It’s like a vacation for you from the daily grind. Maybe another dog sit back in America? Or maybe a splurge on a rental? The possibilities are endless. 🙂 xx
July 26, 2023 at 20:28
Yep. Lots of possibilities. Especially now that we are both gainfully employed on the road. 🙂
July 25, 2023 at 09:19
Hi Liesbet,
The crater looks a fun place to visit, although I’m not sure I could cope with living there given that phone and wifi reception is not good.
The cable cars look a fun ride too. Glad they were working on your way back.
Pleased to hear you stayed at a lovely, safe place while Mark was away. I hope the time passed quickly.
There were no captions on some of your photos this time. No sure if that was because you didn’t add them or that there was a problem.
July 25, 2023 at 12:06
Hi Hugh,
The crater was a peaceful place to spend a couple of days. Luckily, we could manage with the internet as no “real jobs” had to be accomplished during that time. We do have to plan around our work assignments/schedule and internet availability.
Time passed very quickly without Mark and I always wish I had more me-time. On the other hand, after being stationary for three weeks, I was ready to hit the road again with my loved ones.
Thanks for letting me know about the absence of captions. That was on purpose. I was running out of time and really wanted this new blog post out there as soon as possible, while also dealing with a lot of chaos and frenzy regarding Mark and my appearance on CNN that weekend.
July 30, 2023 at 11:34
I really like the idea of camping inside a crater. It looked very lush – not how you think of a volcanic crater.
And that cable car ride above the trees! It looks like they pack people in. Glad they got if fixed for your trip back down.
August 4, 2023 at 08:58
Hi Duwan,
You know, that crater was not so special in itself, but the serenity it exuded when we were staying there was something special and hard to describe. It was as if we were transported back in time, with wrinkled, indigenous people, donkeys, horses, cows, nature, … and all that mattered was living off the land surrounded by crater walls and peace.
The cable ride was very short. Maya didn’t like it at all, but we survived. And it was much easier and faster than hiking all the way down the canyon and back up again! 🙂