Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed and possible.
For part of December 2023, Mark and I parked our truck camper, Thirsty Bella, at the Quinta Lala campground in Cusco, Peru, while we explored the city and surroundings with my cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim. After they flew home to Belgium, we got ready for the road again, met up with good friends, and made our way to the Bolivian border, which we crossed on December 19th. After a few days in Copacabana, we reached La Paz, where we’ve been stationary since, to run the Las Lomas campground for a month.
The car category was huge! Not only did we spend almost $300 on gasoline, we also had two costly “repairs,” and purchased liability insurance for six months in the Mercasur countries (Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay, and Paraguay with Bolivia and Chile being associated states).
In Cusco, we added “unbreakable” security film to the four side windows of our truck, after reading repeated reports of foreign cars being broken into in Chile.
Before leaving Peru, Mark noticed sparks in our engine, each time he started the car. Once in La Paz, he discovered corrosion in some of the ignition coils. He managed to clean and reinstall two of them, but one had to be replaced. Our options were to buy a low-quality coil locally for twice the price than a high-quality one in the US, or to pay heavy import duties when ordering what we wanted online. We decided to purchase one ignition coil in La Paz. At the moment, one more coil is broken, so we need another part… The good news is that we figured out the cause of the rust, yesterday.
Mark works on the engine
We finally bought a tire plug kit, in case we run into a puncture problem again (like that terrible incident in Colombia). We also took Thirsty to a carwash before leaving Cusco, paid for parking when needing the car close to our Airbnb, and handed over cash at a few restored toll booths. We had gotten away with not paying tolls in Peru for months, after protesters burned most of the stations down in early 2023.
Burned-down toll booth
Our grocery bill was above average, because we went on a couple of extensive shopping sprees, after finishing all the food from the fridge and making a dent in other provisions, before we stored our camper for three weeks. And, there were lots of homecooked dinners, among which two special ones over the holidays.
We ate out quite a bit, having friends and family – and incredible restaurants – around, including a fabulous birthday dinner. Despite Griet and Wim’s generosity, we still spent more than usually in this category.
The next big and unexpected expense was a new smartphone for me. The day after my family arrived, we were strolling through downtown Cusco, ready to join a walking tour. Griet and I were chatting non-stop. In the excitement of the day and the company, I had forgotten to zip up the pocket of my sweater, which was wrapped around my waist. My phone was located in this pocket and skillfully removed from it by someone, without me noticing it.
My phone was stolen in this area, on a pedestrian stretch further down.
I couldn’t help but feel this robbery was my fault, despite being the victim and stealing being a crime. Of course, I should have zippered up! Instead of joining the Cusco Free Walking Tour, Mark, Maya, and I spent that afternoon at the main police office (a story for another day). Needless to say, I never retrieved my one-year-old Google Pixel 6a, of which I’d finally had the cracked screen replaced a month and a half prior. I was beyond bummed.
After one year, my badly cracked screen was replaced!
But, as “luck” would have it, my birthday was coming up and our Canadian friends, Sheri and Jeff, had another week at home, before meeting us in Peru. They joined forces with Mark and managed to find and bring me a new smartphone: A Pixel 7a. Mark surprised me with it, one day on a hike. Interestingly, while I’m super happy to have a good camera again, being without a phone for a month was somewhat liberating; I enjoyed taking less photos and not “having” to post them on Facebook; my main use for this device.
My new Google Pixel 7a smartphone
Our accommodation costs for last month included splitting an Airbnb in Cusco for a week with my cousin and her husband, storage for Thirsty Bella during that time, another few days of camping at Quinta Lala, and tipping a farmer in Tinajani Canyon to boondock on his land for three nights.
December is the period of gifts. I created annual calendars with 13 photos of the two – or three – of us in exciting locations for family members in Belgium and the US, we bought a bottle of Baileys for Sheri and Jeff, whom we celebrated Christmas with for the second year in a row (on a funny side note, they happened to select the same bottle for me as a gift), and we ordered an electric heater for my mother-in-law as an early birthday present.
Our alcohol expense seemed average – surprising, when celebrating the old and the new year with friends – but I have to add a note about the utilities category. We actually pay around $70 a month for our Starlink satellite internet subscription, but Mark realized that some of that fee should be put towards our business/freelance careers, hence the reduced amount of $35 for unlimited internet in this report and going forward. We also filled our propane tank, before leaving Cusco. This should last us three months.
We paid for a rickety barge crossing of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia and frequently used taxis to get around in Cusco and La Paz. Plus, we enjoy(ed) taking the cable cars in La Paz. In cities, it is just safer – and less frustrating – to keep the vehicle parked at a secure location and get around with public transportation.
The only real excursion we did in December was a strenuous hike on Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca, leaving from Copacabana.
I explored a few more ruins with my family around Cusco, but those were included in my 10-day tourist ticket, bought in November.
Our friend, Jeff, and I also bicycled Death Road (aka “The World’s Most Dangerous Road”) on a long and exhausting, but fun, day trip from La Paz. I used gift money from my parents for that adventure. More about that in another post.
The remaining categories were all under $20. We went out for a few drinks with friends, obtained meds from the pharmacy for my headaches, sore throat, and birth control, sourced a few items for the camper, bought two new camping chairs that were super affordable (the only negative, we discovered later, is that none of our glasses or stainless-steel water bottles fit in the cup holders), found a muzzle for Maya so she could join us in the cable cars of La Paz, and exchanged coins for toilet visits.
Crossing the border into Bolivia didn’t cost anything and once there (and at a beach south of Puno earlier), we wild camped for free again.
Our total for December was high again, around $1,900, but we are determined to begin 2024 on a lower budget. For once, we are off to a good start.
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
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January 13, 2024 at 14:40
This sounds like a much more relaxing and enjoyable time than your earlier adventures. Are you enjoying the “home base” of the campground, or are your feet getting itchy already?
January 14, 2024 at 15:57
You got it, Diane. This month in the campground is peanuts in terms of adventure – and it’s just what the doctor ordered. 🙂 So, yes, I am enjoying the little home base, despite it being busy and super social. I’m finally getting some of my personal (work) projects done. That being said, we will be ready to leave here in about ten days, when the Bolivian owner returns.
January 13, 2024 at 15:17
You must have been terribly bummed about having your phone stolen. Nobody likes to feel violated. I wouldn’t beat myself over forgetting to zip up. You weren’t the one who did something wrong. What was it like to run a campground?
January 14, 2024 at 16:02
You are so right about being the victim and not needing to feel bad about the phone robbery event, Pete. It’s interesting how the human brain works sometimes. But, yes, the worst part is feeling violated. And, it really bums me out that people do this to each other. Losing a phone is a serious impediment on anyone’s life. The thieves not only cause loss of property (and a big chunk of money), but a lot of hassle and annoyance and inconvenience as well.
We are still in La Paz, taking care of this small campground and it’s been great so far. Much busier – with much more involvement – than we expected, but most overlanders are pretty good about cleaning up after themselves and respecting everyone’s privacy, so I have been able to put in a lot of (my own) work hours in addition to campground maintenance. 🙂
January 13, 2024 at 16:22
Im so glad you got a new phone. I’m so sorry it got stolen. On our last trip to Mexico City I was wondering how I’d keep my phone secure. It ended up I just kept the phone in my hand most of the time. I was either taking pictures or following Google Maps. We purchased pick-pocket proof pants for Greg. He likes them but sometimes it is hard for him to get stuff out of them. I hope that means it would be hard for the pick-pockets too.
I hope there is an easy solution for coil rust problem.
How did Maya do with the muzzle. She looks so pitiful with it on, I love the cable cars, though!
The unbreakable security film sounds like a good idea. I hope you never have to find out how well it works.
January 14, 2024 at 16:09
Hi Duwan,
Pickpocket-proof pants, huh? I had no idea those existed. But it sure sounds like we could all use them, when traveling in cities and walking in tight, chaotic markets. Our friend Brandon also got his smartphone stolen, here in La Paz. Is it annoying to Greg that it takes a while to get stuff out of his pockets?
I’d be worried when holding my phone for photos or navigation that someone would snatch it out of my hands. Having a phone stolen once makes you worried about it happening again. So, I’m actually happier and better off not taking it with me in dodgy place. But, like you, I enjoy taking photos…
Right now, we need to order one more new ignition coil. But, we are happy to have found the source of the rust, so this problem shouldn’t happen again!
Like every other dog we saw at the cable cars, Maya hates the muzzle. Initially, she kept trying to paw it off her face (like we saw other dogs do), but she’s a good sport, as you know, and she gets used to things. And that comes with lots of treats. So, at the moment, she is much more tolerant of the muzzle, if she doesn’t have to wear it for too long at a time.
January 13, 2024 at 17:50
Just checking your bottom line again–always way below ours.
I had my wallet stolen once; the feeling is awful, but you are recovering and are able to secure a new phone. Yay!
January 14, 2024 at 16:13
Hi Marian,
It was an awful experience, to have a valuable item taken away from me. I honestly didn’t want another phone anymore (since I mainly use it for taking photos) and was happy to get back to my old camera (until I saw the photos of lesser quality on my computer later). I’m quite a “simple” girl, who would rather not have any gadgets if it meant changing my alertness or comfort level.
I’m sorry you had to go through that awful feeling when your wallet was stolen. I kept reminding myself that, with the phone, it’s “only money.” Having a wallet stolen involves much more hassle and inconvenience. I never have mine on me, ever since I arrived in South America over a year ago.
January 13, 2024 at 20:05
Amazing stuff, Liesbet. What a darling picture of you peaking over Mark’s shoulder–very cute. Yikes that Maya had to wear a muzzle (though I understand completely why). I bet she was a good sport about it.
January 14, 2024 at 16:19
Hi Jacqui,
You know Maya! She is a good sport about the muzzle. I actually wrote just that in another comment, before reading yours. She’s getting a dog treat every time she wears the muzzle, so that helps. But, she is an adventurer and adjusts well to new situations.
If we would have only stayed in La Paz for a few days (as was the “plan”), we wouldn’t have bought a muzzle for her. But, being here for a month meant using the cable car system more frequently. And, it’s actually good to have one in case of future requirements.
January 13, 2024 at 20:22
Sorry about your phone!
Some amazing shots as usual. The tram looks cool. Glad you had a good (and tasty) birthday.
January 14, 2024 at 16:21
Hi Alex,
Thanks for the compliments. We think the cable car system is the coolest thing to do and see (including the views) in this city. We bought a card to recharge, so we will use it a few more times.
January 15, 2024 at 21:44
Wow, that sounds like a whole lotta good times. Arg, except for your phone. You must have had a momentary lapse forgetting you left your phone vulnerable with so much crime. Glad you got a new one and Happy belated Birthday! Stay safe! <3
January 17, 2024 at 14:54
Hi Debby,
Cusco is the most touristy and popular city in Peru and is generally very safe. Plus, we were walking in a pedestrian zone in the historic center that wasn’t too crowded, with police and cameras abound. I was chatting away with my cousin, who I hadn’t seen in a year-and-a-half (which is like chatting with a BFF you haven’t see or heard for a while), so I wasn’t paying attention to my surroundings enough.
And, because of my excitement – and checking the time often for our walking tour, since our lunch had been delayed and we were running late – I never zipped up the pocket with the phone in it. I think someone saw an “opportunity”, when my device was “staring” at them, while I wasn’t paying attention and Mark was walking our dog. If only, if only, if only…
January 17, 2024 at 17:12
ARG! Goes to show it only takes a moment to be on guard. Even when out and about in Mexico I wear a small flat pouch crossbody, which I don’t leave hanging at the side but hanging in front of me. If it gets crowded, I put the pouch inside my top. xx
January 20, 2024 at 09:43
That’s the best way to carry valuables. I never carry a wallet, so it’s usually just the phone/camera I have on me at all times. And sometimes my glasses. I do have a “fanny pack” as you Canadians call it, but I never use it… Maybe that would make me feel safer than carrying stuff in my pockets or a small purse. In general, we always have a backpack with us, with water for Maya and ourselves. My phone – and certainly my glasses – are sometimes in there.
January 23, 2024 at 10:40
Happy belated birthday, Liesbet. And it looks like you also had a nice Christmas and New Year. I’m sorry about your phone being stolen, but I love how you said you felt quite liberated for a month without having one. I’ve read blog posts about people switching off their phones for a week, month or even longer. They all say how wonderful it was, although all came back to using their phone again.
January 25, 2024 at 15:27
Hi Hugh,
Thank you for the lovely wishes. We all had a good time over the holidays and celebrations, mainly because we had family and friends around to share these moments with. And, we love good food and drinks – and company. 🙂
Having gadgets and devices is such a mixed bag, or double-edged sword. I feel like they consume me. Yet, it is my choice to spend so much time with and on them.
Most people seem to have a hard time finding a healthy balance! And me? I just have too many things I want to do that require technology, like blogging, diary entries, research for our lifestyle, communications with friends and family, and work.