Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast.
Early last month, Mark, Maya, and I completed 175 days of exploring Colombia and on May 4th, we crossed into Ecuador with our truck camper Thirsty Bella. Did you know that the national currency in this country is the US dollar? It will make our tracking – and spending – that much easier. 🙂
The border crossing between Colombia and Ecuador was surprisingly mellow.
May 2023 was our cheapest month in years. We rarely dip under $1,000, but this time we surpassed ourselves. The reasons: because April was an expensive, above-average month, Mark and I tried hard to “save” money by not eating out and camping for free, and we had somewhat stocked up on dry food in cheaper Colombia. On top of that, we were surrounded by generous friends – old and new.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Yes, Ecuador has higher prices for pretty much everything except tolls, gasoline, and produce and you often have to pay for street parking, hiking, and natural sites. National parks seem to be free.
The main roads, especially the PanAmerican Highway, are in better shape, motorcycles are less frequent, and tourism is more established than in Colombia.
Our highest category last month was groceries at under $200, followed by car expenses. We didn’t drive that much and only ventured around northern Ecuador the first five weeks, because Mark decided to leave from Quito for his annual medical and family visit to Massachusetts, USA.
View over Quito from Andy’s place, where we stored our camper for two nights ($8) while visiting the capital with friends
Before we crossed the border with Ecuador, we had an oil change done in Pasto. When you buy the oil at a garage, they perform the change for free. Unfortunately, the mechanic overfilled the reservoir, so Mark had to carefully drain some of it back out (and save it) the following day. There were some tolls too.
The last two nights of May, the three of us stayed at a funky Airbnb in Quito. This allowed us to explore the capital city on foot – our accommodation was located in the historical district – and to have quality time with our friends Katherine and Brandon, who are traversing Central and South America on their decked-out BMW motorcycles. We had an amazing time!
As usual, we boondocked (camp without facilities) 100% of the time and managed to mostly do so for free. Ecuador offers more public spaces than Colombia, but we did have to pay a small fee for overnight parking a few times.
The reason we spent some money on camping is because I wanted to check out a few safe options for Maya and me to stay during Mark’s 2.5-week absence. In the end, I decided to return to the property of friends Graham and Amalia in Ibarra, where I’m currently typing this. Mark left on June 11th.
Despite trying our best to not eat out (cooking and doing dishes every single day does get old, though), we kept sightseeing without worrying too much about the cost. In Colombia, we paid $9 for the cable car (teleférico) from Santuario de Las Lajas back up to the parking lot.
In Ecuador, we soaked in four (!) hot springs (termales) for $42 in total, paid $5 for road access into Cayambe-Coca National Park, and visited the solar clock and museum ($5) on the equator. The following photos are just a sampling, blog posts about all these attractions will follow later this month.
We have been hanging out with friends in May so needed to make sure we had wine, beer, and rum. Also, before crossing into Ecuador, we topped up our propane tank as this is cheaper and more convenient in Colombia. The rest of the utilities category went to internet. Claro is the biggest cell and data provider here as well, but the plans are pricier than north of the border. Somehow, we still manage to spend around $30 a month, which is alright. The price is roughly $1 per 1GB of data.
The indigenous town of Otavalo reputedly has the biggest handicraft market in South America on Saturdays. Our trio visited on Sunday – we are not fans of crowded places – and Mark bought two pretty sweaters, one synthetic and one made of alpaca wool, for $32. At an artisanal market in Quito we finally bought an alpaca blanket for our bed after using a crappy fleece one from Walmart for six years. It was a tough bargain at $23.
Our drinking and dining out expenses were ridiculously low. We thought there would be a spike during our time with friends in Quito, but they were super generous to treat us to a fancy dinner the first night, and on the second night we cooked and ate in the house we rented. If there would be a bakery category, however, you’d be surprised at how costly it gets.
And that’s a wrap for May 2023, totaling $652. I doubt we will ever be able to match that amount, but we might as well try. Once in a while…
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
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June 13, 2023 at 14:09
Ecuador national parks may be free because of the $100 fee for Galapagos – maybe it subsidizes the rest? Enjoy Ecuador!
June 13, 2023 at 16:30
Haha, Marie, maybe, but I doubt it. The money that goes to the Galapagos more than likely stays there. My husband and I visited the Galapagos Islands for two months in 2013 with our sailboat. It was a fantastic experience, but back then, we were charged US$1,000 for that privilege. I can only imagine what cruisers pay these days…
June 13, 2023 at 15:21
Brava! We wouldn’t survive a week in the States on $652, including bill paying.
Safe travels for Mark, and a cozy time for you and Maya!
June 13, 2023 at 16:31
Hi Marian,
I don’t think Mark and I could afford living in the US anymore, even on the road, which is about the cheapest way to survive. Not having monthly bills is probably one of our biggest savings, in addition to not paying for a mortgage or rent.
June 13, 2023 at 16:47
HI, Liesbet – This is absolutely amazing. You, Mark and Maya are VERY inspirational!
June 13, 2023 at 21:35
Hi Donna,
We tried quite hard this time to keep our expenses low and there were no extra and unexpected costs. 🙂 I’m hoping this month is low as well, since half of it I’m stationary. We will see. I do want to eat out more again, though. And buy an ice cream once in a while. 🙂
June 13, 2023 at 17:06
Wow, that’s amazing! It must feel good to finally have a ‘cheap’ month after all your surprise expenses. 🙂
June 13, 2023 at 21:35
Yes. It. Does. 🙂
June 13, 2023 at 17:50
My comment is the same as Marian’s. Travel expenses seem to be at a very high rate in the United States right now. With all of the travel associated with our son’s wedding, it’s been particularly crazy.
June 13, 2023 at 21:38
Hi Pete,
I can only imagine how much it cost everyone to fly to a wedding and then add local accommodation and transportation to the mix. Yet, it doesn’t seem to prevent people from flying and traveling within North America and Europe. It’s interesting to me. Of course, special events like your son’s wedding, are always worth it. 🙂
June 13, 2023 at 18:21
How you fared on just $652 is amazing, Liesbet! Loved your photos and descriptions and very curious what else you’ll see in Ecuador. We spent quite a bit of time there, exploring a good chunk of the country. Bad experience our first day in Quito when I was mugged just before a walking tour. A man came up behind me and yanked my small gold hoop pierced earrings out of both ears and then ran away. Good travel lesson I learned that day to never wear gold anywhere when traveling. Invested in silver jewelry which I only wear on overseas trips so that was fun!
Also a vivid memory of a local woman on the bus gesturing to me to put my cheap camera away lest it was also stolen. Had never felt unsafe before so that was a learning curve. However, we loved exploring the capital and many other places throughout the country and highly recommend it to others.
June 13, 2023 at 21:44
Hi Annie,
Those are distressing stories. I’m sorry to read them and that becoming aware of your surroundings had to happen in these awful ways. Yikes! It must have hurt as well, when t that guy snatched your earrings!!!
Your second story reminds me of similar events for us in Quito, which seems to have dangerous parts to it. Our friend, Katherine, was told by an Ecuadorian to not carry her phone in her back pocket. When we drove out of town with an Uber, the driver didn’t want to roll her windows down until we arrived in the valley and that’s when she placed her phone back in its holder as well.
These actions are reminders that the capital still had issues. The only time we really “felt” it when walking outside of the historic center was when cops kept telling us to be aware of our surroundings and to not climb to the winged virgin. There were even signs along those stairs warning tourists to not continue up the hill!
June 13, 2023 at 20:18
Hi Liesbet! Wow! The thing I liked best about this month’s post is not just your amazingly low costs–but that you seemed to have a wonderful month doing fun things, getting together with people and seeing some beautiful county. Thank you (as always) for showing that it is possible. ~Kathy
June 13, 2023 at 21:47
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for your observations! As a matter of fact, yes, it was a good month! I’m glad you reminded me of that. We got to do fun things and visit the sites we wanted to explore within that budget. That being said, it will be nice to splurge a bit more. But, then again, if we don’t soak in more hot springs, it opens up the budget for a cheap dinner or two out and treats. 🙂
I have to say that Ecuador has been good to us. We can be a tad more relaxed about and during our travels after the ups and downs of Colombia.
June 16, 2023 at 07:29
As always, you and Mark are an inspiration on so many things, including how to have an incredible life together spending little currency but lots of love (and doggie kisses). Hope Mark’s trip goes well, and you enjoy a bit of “me” time. xo
June 16, 2023 at 11:59
Hi Pam,
Thanks for the good wishes. Trying hard for that me-time right now, as I’m staying with a nice family that allows me to practice my Spanish daily. But I have a lot of writing and blogging and organizing and cleaning to do. And, as you know, time flies! In the meantime, Mark is incredible busy in your neck of the woods! At least it’s warmer there than here. 🙂
June 16, 2023 at 16:35
I know you don’t like NE weather, but it’s pretty nice for him. Until tomorrow. Thinking of you both with a great big hug.
June 18, 2023 at 22:10
Good to know the weather is generally fine in MA right now. For sure, it’s warmer than here in Ecuador at 8,000ft. Especially in the evenings. 🙂
Yesterday evening, I contemplated turning the heater on as the thermometer inside the camper read 58 degrees. But I toughened it out, under the covers, with Maya next to me on the bed.
June 16, 2023 at 20:40
That is an amazing amount of money not spent!
The blanket and Marks sweater are great! Ecuador looks beautiful.
June 18, 2023 at 22:17
Hi Duwan,
What a great way of expressing that sentiment about money not spent, haha. I know you guys had a terrible month regarding costs and I’m so sorry about that.
We probably should have bought a second alpaca blanket for Mark to take home and safe keep in his mom’s house, since he pretty much left with little luggage. We contemplated it, but what would that blanket be doing in Massachusetts and then what? We really only need stuff that we use in our camper. And that was the end of that discussion.
June 17, 2023 at 10:29
I love the look of the vegetable market, and how cool to have crossed the equator.
Well done on a savvy month of spending, although with Ecuador being expensive than Columbia for a lot of stuff, it’ll be interesting to see how you guys get on.
Hope Maya and you are doing ok while Mark is away.
June 18, 2023 at 22:28
Hi Hugh,
Thanks for checking in! Yes, we will see how Ecuador treats us the coming months. I think if we are careful with our expenditures, especially regarding eating out and campgrounds, we will be fine. Food in the grocery store is more expensive than Colombia, but it makes us more conscious about what we buy and what we pass on.
Maya and I are staying on a nice property of local friends, but during the weekends, fireworks are all around us. Loud and close by, so that’s a bummer. The indigenous peoples love to shoot off firecrackers. And now there is a festival going on. I sure hope tomorrow is quieter again! Poor Maya.
June 17, 2023 at 14:17
Lovely blog, Liesbet. You are soooo inspiring. We also find we spend a lot less when we’re away on the boat, but we’re very frugal types anyway, so it’s not difficult to keep costs low here in our rural region of Zeeuws Vlaanderen. I would so love to travel through Columbia and Equador. Trying to work out the logistics of getting there and travelling with our spaniel, Zoe, is kind of challenging. I’m not even sure it’s possible at our age, but I shall keep dreaming.
June 18, 2023 at 22:35
Hi Val,
Thank you for swinging by and leaving a comment, lieverd!
I remember spending less on our boat than in our campers at times as well, when, like you, we were underway or anchored (docked) in remote places where there is no opportunity to spend money. I’m happy to learn that you both are frugal travelers as well. Did you learn that from Koos? 🙂
Yes, traveling with a dog makes everything more complicated. And costly. It also requires a bunch of research and making changes on behalf of our four-legged family members!
If you have a chance, ever, I’d recommend you visit the Galápagos Islands, still our highlight in Ecuador and South America so far. But without Zoë of course. Colombia and Ecuador have been interesting and slightly fascinating, but my guess is that the scenery will drastically improve and impress as we head south into the high Andes.
June 17, 2023 at 14:18
PS, your photos are wonderful. It looks quite magical!
June 18, 2023 at 22:36
Thanks, dear Val. I’m taking way too many photos and always have a hard time picking a selection for the blogs. My next entry will have over 100 photos in it as I’m trying to catch up with some longer posts. Hopefully, I’ll get that published tomorrow. I’m already halfway through my me-time without Mark!
June 20, 2023 at 23:51
Wow, you guys done well! The photos are gorgeous. Looks as though you’re having a great South American experience. <3
June 21, 2023 at 11:10
Hi Debby,
Ecuador has been treating us well. Being able to camp for free in nature again has been super pleasant and if we are careful about what we buy in the grocery stores (which we are) and which restaurants to eat at, the cost of living is similar to Colombia.
June 29, 2023 at 15:15
Bargain month for you. Beats the US any day!
June 29, 2023 at 21:16
Yes! Unless you boondock in nature for a while, don’t drive a lot, and cook all your own meals. 🙂