Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.
Mark, Maya, and I spent pretty much the entire month of November with Thirsty Bella in Argentina, after crossing back over from Uruguay. The only reason I mention Uruguay in the title, is that some of the credit card charges from October didn’t come through until November. Bookkeeping…
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Our November expenses were on the high end, but that is not a surprise. It was an eventful month with lots of driving and quite a few realizations and stories.
It seems like every month we reach a new record high with the amount we spend on fuel! This time, we can blame the long distances. Gasoline is back “down” to around $4 a gallon (1 euro a liter) in Argentina as opposed to the $7 in Uruguay. But, man, did we cover some miles last month – and we are still going!
From November 1st, leaving Fray Bentos in Uruguay to cross the border, until November 30th at Playa La Mina along the Atlantic coast of Argentina, including a few measurable detours, we drove 2,000 miles (3,000 km)! I guess that translates to $670 of fuel… Luckily, our water consumption remains free.
Other car expenses – historically the highest category – went to maintenance ($10) in the form of windshield washer fluid and battery lugs (to create a more efficient cable run between the car and the camper, an upcoming project) and tolls ($15). The bridge crossing between Uruguay and Argentina cost $10 for cars and $40 (!) for motorhomes (and pick-ups with dual tires), which is insane. The other tolls were paid in Northern Argentina.
The expensive bridge over the river dividing Uruguay and Argentina
Our grocery bills were unusually high as well. We did stock up a bit before arriving in Patagonia, as we had heard that goods are pricier here, but the main reason for the increased number ($450), is that prices in Argentina, for all goods, keep rising. People everywhere in the world complain about inflation, but – honestly – that is nothing compared to this country. We have seen products double and triple in price this year. It is hurting every tourist, but the local population even more. Something will give soon.
My birthday gift at the end of November was a boat tour to Isla Pinguïno, off the coast of Puerto Deseado, a substantial detour from Ruta 3. Mark and I arrived here with the understanding that day tours to the island cost $80 per person, since nobody seems to update prices in iOverlander. This was already a high price to swallow for us, budget-minded nomads. But we had heard the trip was worthwhile, mostly to see rockhopper penguins, a species that is very difficult to visit elsewhere in the world.
Imagine our surprise when we inquired about this tour at two agencies and learned that the cheapest one offered these 5-hour trips (2-hour boat ride and 3 hours on the island) for $160 a person, not including lunch!
We managed to bargain them down a bit to $140 per person (cash would have been 130,000 pesos/$130 a person – we don’t even carry that many bills), which was still way out of our budget. So, Mark stayed home and let me go. Our friend Sheri came along, which was nice.
It was an enjoyable excursion (more photos and videos in an upcoming blog post), but to be honest, I still found the price too steep; just to watch the rockhoppers. Especially when adding another $60 in fuel for the detour. All the other wildlife could be seen – for free – in other parts of this country. I wish I would have known this price ahead of time (my mistake for not doing more research, but an increase of 100%?) and that Mark could have joined us.
After seventeen years (of traveling), my Crocs, a birthday gift from Mark in 2007, finally perished.
On my actual birthday (November 28), Jeff and Sheri treated us to dinner at a local restaurant, after having drinks in our camper. It was an interesting evening. and so busy that I forgot it was also the fourth anniversary of my book, Plunge. 🙂
We bought a bunch of affordable wine and a discounted bottle of vodka before the trek south and paid our monthly Starlink subscription, which is also going up due to the less favorable exchange rate. We topped up our propane tank again, for a decent price. This company only charged us for the gas they actually added, instead of for an entire 10kg tank.
Eating out in Argentina deserves a separate blog post! It isn’t pretty. Nor is it easy, affordable, tasty, or enjoyable. And that’s our bottom line. Believe me, we’ve tried. Between the late opening times of restaurants (generally around 8pm, which doesn’t mean you can eat at 8pm, of course), the increased – and still increasing – prices of meals, and the slim selection of well-prepared and healthy dishes, it’s just not worth it to us anymore.
For example, it took three tries in three different cities (the first two with us ending up cooking at home after 8pm) before we succeeded in buying a take-out pizza for two people, which cost $21, including a discount. The pie was not that great, especially the cooked ham that was supposed to be prosciutto. Oh, and the olives still had pits. We were actually going to use dinner donation money for this, but the credit card charges never came through. Yay! Now we can try once more. 😊
Mark and I bought a dozen empanadas on a beach one afternoon, expecting them to be seafood with a garlic sauce, based on our conversation with the vendor. They were quite tasty, but filled with ground beef, which came a tad unexpected.
The exception was a wonderful high tea ceremony in the Welsh town of Gaiman, where we ordered one “full service tea” at a tea house and one extra tea. This was enough food – savory and sweet treats – for two people. We shared the yummy experience with our Canadian friends, Jeff and Sheri. The price for this special feast had gone up from $8 to $24 in a year, but it was still worthwhile.
We just keep cooking our own meals (and doing the dishes) every day, which are tasty, healthy, and affordable, but it would be nice to take a break and have a splurge once in a while. Maybe in Ushuaia? Or Chile?
Dropping off laundry in Argentina – which is the only way, like in most South American countries, unless you rent an Airbnb with a washing machine – costs around $8 a load these days. We gave in, after inquiring at three laundromats and receiving a small discount when paying cash. And Maya finally received a new box of dog treats (since we saved a chunk of money elsewhere) and a bag of stuffing, with which we fluffed up her pathetic-looking dog bed.
In true fashion, we didn’t spend much money on entertainment. Mark and I visited the affordable Fray Bentos museum in Uruguay and booked a tour there on the last day of October. Luckily, we could pay with credit card, as we had run out of Uruguayan pesos by then. This charge came through in November.
Mural of the social situation in Fray Bentos, when the factory was active
Mark didn’t join me on the other two visits. The first one was to an abandoned town on the shores of Lago Epecuén. The entrance fee was low, but three times as high as six months ago. Out of principle, Mark stayed home. And the second one was a quick look into the oldest Welsh house of Gaiman, which gave me, Sheri, and Jeff a good idea of how the Welsh folks lived there in the 1800s.
Now, let’s talk about our pantry repair in Bella…
I had forgotten to latch the cabinet, we drove on really bumpy and crappy roads for an hour, and the pantry slid out and in on its tracks long enough to give up and tumble to the floor. We heard the crash from the cabin of the truck, stopped immediately, and witnessed the warzone with horror, dread, and sadness.
Everything made from glass and ceramics, including precious gifts from friends, lie shattered on the floor, mixed with ball bearings of the destroyed track, and scattered shelves and spice containers.
After an already long, tiring, and frustrating day, this was another all-time-low for us. We stared at the damage and were ready to give up on this journey all together. Then, we gathered our wits, picked up the broken pieces, and swept the floor for the first time. More cleaning would follow – tiny shards of glass hid everywhere!
We contacted an Argentinian friend from Puerto Madryn, the first big town we were headed to, who got in touch with a carpenter friend of his, who let us know he could help. To make a long story short: we communicated with Federico and he came by Bella to see what was needed. Then, he bought new tracks, visited us again with his tools, and spent two hours installing and modifying the pantry.
On top of his service, professionalism, kindness, knowledge, and fast assistance, he refused to take any extra money from us! He only (under)charged us for the part, happy to help and become friends! This was an incredible and humbling experience. We used the money we’d saved to buy goodies for all three of us.
After we returned from our summer break in the US and Belgium, Mark suffered from allergies for many weeks. Finally, he bought medicine for the worst days. We also needed a new supply of hydrogen peroxide. We didn’t replace the broken mugs and glasses, apart for one wine glass on sale for $2. So far, we are managing fine. Mark refuses to drink out of plastic cups, though. I’ll have to be even more careful securing our cabinets, which I usually check meticulously before every departure.
As usual, we didn’t stay at pay campgrounds and managed to boondock/wild camp for the entire 30 days of November. Some places were quiet and attractive; others not so much.
And that wraps up our $1,512 expense report for November 2024 – above average but it could have been worse based on how the inflation in Argentina is going. We don’t want to be here for too much longer.
(For anyone interested in the political and financial situation of Argentina, Mark came across this interesting article recently: https://apnews.com/article/argentina-milei-trump-musk-default-economy-inflation-libertarian-18efe55d81df459792a038ea9e321800.)
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
Next up: Wildlife encounters in Patagonia
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December 13, 2024 at 12:58
Happy Birthday!
December 14, 2024 at 12:00
Thanks, Margie. This birthday wasn’t too special. The next one will be a big one! Happy holidays!
December 14, 2024 at 14:37
Hey, they are all special and at the same time, just a number 🙂
December 14, 2024 at 20:08
🙂
December 13, 2024 at 14:33
As usual, an eventful month. Eventually, inflation will make the economy collapse at this rate.
December 14, 2024 at 12:02
Hi Pete,
Yeah, we are a bit worried about the inflation and economy in Argentina and the way it’s going… But, the locals are super patient. They’ve elected Milei, so they’re giving him a fair chance to make positive changes to their economy. We shall see.
And, you’re right. Every month is eventful in this household! It’s exciting and never boring, but I do wish to have a more relaxed life one day. 🙂
December 13, 2024 at 14:39
We certainly can relate to the broken pantry and everything scattered on the floor at the end of the day! We’ve been there more than once, as I’m sure most RVers have. But then it led to a good ending and making a friend, which is also often the case with disasters on the road. Fun read, Lisbet!
December 14, 2024 at 20:11
Hi Gail,
Good points. I think Mark and I need to get to a point where we can deal with bad situations more gracefully. Sometimes, they just add up and you feel “enough is enough.” And then, you get over it, you regroup, and you continue life and the journey. 🙂
I keep appreciating and respecting your positive attitude.
December 13, 2024 at 15:29
Some tough times but that seems to be the norm, isn’t it? Sad to hear about the broken ceramics that had been gifts from friends as those were irreplaceable. Hope the New Year brings you both good health, fun and safe travels, and enjoyable ways to economize!
December 14, 2024 at 20:13
Hi Annie!
No matter what we do or where we go, because this lifestyle comes with daily challenges, it always seems to be something. On the other hand, there is never a dull moment, haha. No wonder it takes an hour every day to write my diary. 🙂
Thanks for the wishes! We wish you and Steve a fabulous New Year as well, with improved health and continued travels. xox
December 13, 2024 at 15:33
Happy November 28th birthday! Thanks for the update. Jim
December 14, 2024 at 20:14
Thanks for the birthday wishes, Jim! I hope to share some amazing wildlife encounters in Argentina soon. So much has been going on.
December 13, 2024 at 20:32
I used to think that life cycled with ups and then downs.
Your posts makes me think that the ups and downs are on parallel tracks, happening almost simultaneously.
I’ll concentrate on the smiles with your friends in Gaiman. 🙂
December 14, 2024 at 20:17
Hi Marian,
That “tea party” in the Welsh village of Gaiman was such a pleasant surprise. Everything about it was enjoyable and fun. And, I hear you about the parallel track of ups and downs. It’s almost like they go together. In this lifestyle, anyway. I’d never looked at it this way. Thank you for the insight!
One could contemplate what’s better – a stagnant way of life or extreme ups and downs. Maybe neither is better. They are just different and people choose their ways.
December 13, 2024 at 20:35
As usual, it’s amazing how you balance a tight budget. The Milei article was interesting. We get one perspective here. I enjoyed another outlook.
December 14, 2024 at 20:20
Hi Jacqui,
It’s so hard to understand how a country operates, even when living and traveling in it for many months. Parts of the Milei article certainly did justice to our experiences here. Except that we can’t see anything positive come out of it yet. But, we are not politicians, nor economists. So, time will tell. But we might be out of here by then. 🙂
December 14, 2024 at 11:05
Sorry the pantry fell out!
Those prices are indeed insane. Although eating out here is about equal or a bit higher. For average food, better off cooking at home.
December 14, 2024 at 20:22
Hi Alex,
We’ve always enjoyed eating at home more than out, for the reasons you mention: it’s cheaper, healthier, and you know what you’re putting in your stomach. That being said, eating out once in a while offers a break from all the food work at home and can/should be fun. We shall wait with that until we return to Chile. Oh, we heard the food is good and affordable in Paraguay as well! 🙂
December 16, 2024 at 18:33
Sounds like you’ve been having a perfectly chaotic mercury retrograde. Mine has been the worst I can remember. Even the planets are crazy. But I’m glad you seemed to have a great birthday with lots going on and celebrations. Time for new Crocs, lol. 🙂 xx
December 17, 2024 at 09:45
That’s one way to look at it, Debby. It seems like every month we have a chaotic Mercury retrograde! 🙂 My birthday was alright, but I hope next year will be more special and relaxed. It will be a very big one.
I really liked my Crocs, but don’t have a need for them. Mark and I have three pairs of shoes – hiking shoes, sturdy sandals (which we never seem to wear), and flip flops – and we don’t need any more. We don’t have space for any more, haha.
December 17, 2024 at 16:04
Sounds like me. When I travel somewhere warm I hardly ever even wear sandals, happy in my flip flops. And ironically, there are usually 3 retrogrades a year, but we were blessed this year with 4. They typically last about a month, but longer because their tricksters come about a week early and take a good week to flock off. It ended Sunday, but I’m still feeling it. So there you go, this is why it seems there’s always a retrograde because 6 weeks x 4 is 24 weeks. Almost half a year of this crap!!! <3
January 1, 2025 at 18:42
Wow, Debby. That’s some crazy stuff going on in the cosmos. Maybe this year, there will be less retrogrades. Happy New Year, my friend!
January 2, 2025 at 10:35
I’m afraid to look, lol! 🙂 🙂
January 3, 2025 at 07:34
🙂
December 18, 2024 at 10:37
What a very up-and-down month November was for you. It looks like it was doing what the inflation rate does in Argentina.
I am so glad you enjoyed the visit to the Welsh village. The treats look delicious and mouthwatering. What variety of tea did they serve you? Did any of the guides speak Welsh? I’d also love to know if there was a Welsh lady costume on display. It’s good to hear that Welsh folk made it all the way to Argentina in the 19th century and carried on many traditions.
I’m sorry to hear about the cabinet issue, but how wonderful to find a tradesperson who was happy to help and did the job without breaking the bank.
January 1, 2025 at 18:46
Hello Hugh,
Apologies for the late response. Time is going so fast and by now 2024 has come and gone. Crazy!
The only tea they offered us – in a bottomless pitcher (or how do you call the vessel that holds the tea?) – was black tea. I didn’t ask the brand or origin. None of the servers seemed to speak Welsh. Some only spoke Spanish, but some managed a little bit of English. It was all still quite Argentinian. 🙂
And, no, I didn’t see a Welsh lady costume. Sorry. My upcoming blog post – if I ever manage to finish it; so many stories, photos, and videos – features this Welsh town of Gaiman with photos of the tea ceremony and its colonial buildings and art in the park.
December 20, 2024 at 14:14
Liesbet, November sounds like another eventful month for you. It’s interesting to hear about the inflation and price increases you’ve experienced in your travels. This problem was all the talk in our last election, but it sounds like it may be global problem as well.
I do have one travel gear question that I’ve wondered about. How does your Starlink service perform? We live in town and don’t really need it, but as a geek, I’m curious how well it works for you on the road. Take care and have a Happy Holiday. ~James
January 1, 2025 at 18:55
Hello James,
Sorry for the delayed answer. We’ve been quite busy exploring Ushuaia the last few weeks. 🙂
Yes, I do think inflation is a problem in most countries of the world – prices always seem to keep going up everywhere – but Argentina has been known for this issue for decades. I guess the difference this time is that we are in the middle of it all and can’t quite grasp the tripling or even quadrupling of the prices of goods, meals, and tourist attractions in such a short time. Argentina is quickly becoming the priciest country in South America, which is bizarre for a developing nation.
Regarding your question: Starlink is AWESOME. It has been such a game changer for us. We can literally work from everywhere on the continent now, except when we park under trees or at the bottom of a steep canyon. So, we try and avoid that during the week. 🙂
Because Mark converted and wired it into our 12V system, it doesn’t draw too much power and because we modified it (by cutting the mount off) and permanently installed it inside our camper under a skylight, we can now listen to Spotify in the most remote locations while driving. Yeah. It’s been amazing.
December 29, 2024 at 20:30
And they sell eggs by weight here in Perú. Those penguins are awesome! You got so close to them!
So sorry about all the broken things in your camper, but I’m always glad to see that the bag bag we gave you is still in good shape.
I can’t believe the inflation in Argentina. I think we might give it a miss if it is so expensive. Eating out has been hard for us lately – finding restaurants with vegetarin options. But when we do find them the food has been super good. We will get to eat out again once we are in Lima next week. We have decided to make nachos for our New Years dinner – if only we could find cheddar cheese here, but that isn’t going to happen.
Feliz Año Nuevo para tí, Mark, y Maya!
January 1, 2025 at 19:01
Hello Duwan,
Happy New Year!!
I didn’t remember they sell eggs by the weight in Peru! And, unfortunately, the bag bag was disposed of after the pantry incident. Because we had it hanging over the button, we feel we might have forgotten to lock it, because it was hidden. Sorry, Greg. Maybe he can make us a new one in the near future? 🙂
I hope you enjoyed your nachos. Sounds like a lovely NYE dinner. Mark made orange chicken for us, but we are now leaning towards more vegetarian options as we’ve been eating too much meat lately. Mark anyway.
I actually like the variation of veggie burgers in Argentinian supermarkets. They offer tons of choices. The trick is to buy the products that are on sale. This keeps our grocery bills within check. Although, we shall see what the next expense report brings! We never eat out anymore and stick to the free attractions.