Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed and possible.
In October 2023, Mark, dog Maya, and I explored the southern part of Peru in our truck camper, Thirsty Bella. It was another expensive, above-average month, but, luckily, much cheaper than the previous one. Peru has been hard on our budget. To be honest, we were ready to leave after our allocated three months, but due to (fun) commitments, we added another sixty days and lots more driving (and fuel costs) in this country to our schedule.
Therefore, the highest category – again – was the car, more precisely, fuel. Peru is huge, gasoline costs about $5 a gallon, and we are driving more than ever to cover distances and timelines.
We also spent money on maintenance for our Ford F350 by getting an oil change done in Cusco, which was a bit of a disaster I wrote about here. We ordered car parts in the US, which our Canadian friends will bring back to us early December. And we had the valve of our spare tire replaced.
The tolls were very affordable, because many of the booths were still in disrepair after being burned down during political protests in the beginning of this year.
Burned-down toll booth
Our grocery and alcohol costs were pretty average, but two extra categories were added in Cusco. Mark arranged his expensive visa for Bolivia there, which took a full day (story here) and, because we had a bunch of camper and car projects to complete (and we were sick), we stayed at a pay campground for nine days. We also handed over money at two parking lots in the Sacred Valley that allowed us to camp.
The rest of the month, we boondocked for free around the Sacred Valley, the Andes Mountains, and the Peruvian countryside.
Mark and I ate out a few times – Cusco has good and diverse restaurants, and day menus for lunch everywhere are filling and affordable – but kept that total amount under $100.
We also topped off our propane tank in October and paid our monthly subscription fee for Starlink, our satellite internet solution, which has been awesome. After installing the dish permanently in our camper, we can now not only get online 24/7, but we also manage to listen to music (Spotify) while driving in the middle of nowhere and rely on the GPS/Google Maps more. This monthly fee hovers around $70, affected by the exchange rate.
Since the Sacred Valley and Cusco area have a lot of interesting sites, our entertainment spending went up. Most of this expense covered our two-day tourist ticket to see the archeological sites of Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray, and Chinchero.
We also paid for a visit to the salt mine of Maras and the colored mountains of Pallcoyo. When reaching Titicaca Lake, we enjoyed a guided boat tour to the floating reed islands of Uros. More about those two incredible excursions in an upcoming post.
Mark ordered a few parts for the camper as well (coming with our friends), we had to pay the annual fee for one of our website addresses, Maya was due for a vaccine, which was administered at a vet in Puno, and I forgot to bring pain medicine on our prolonged trip to the Bolivian consulate, so had to buy extra Tylenol at a pharmacy when my head acted up.
Driving through the Andes Mountains in Peru
One of the reasons Mark and I set out on this South American journey is its perceived affordability. Unfortunately, we do not succeed to stay under our American expense average at the moment, so this has to change. We have been able to work more than usually, but none of this is fun, of course, and it would be nice to eat out or splurge more in cheaper countries. Plus, there always seems to be an unexpected expense… What’s the solution? Stay put longer in places and drive less? Leave Peru? Time will tell.
Driving to Pallcoyo Mountain
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
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November 13, 2023 at 14:55
What a crazy world it is when being online costs nearly as much as food. Even though you are not within your desired budget, you are still living very frugally when compared to some. Fuel of course is hard to reduce.
November 14, 2023 at 11:34
Yeah, Starlink is pricey, but the monthly subscription fee is about half as much here as in the US, so we will take that. It’s been a life saver, since we need it for work and we are surely not missing all the frustration that came with flaky cell connections and hunting for internet. 🙂
The fuel is what’s “killing” us. We have the advantage of traveling extremely slowly – since this is our life – within the visa restrictions of the countries around here.
November 13, 2023 at 15:36
Still following your adventures. How much longer are you planning to be in South America? How do the gas prices compare to the United States?
November 14, 2023 at 11:37
Hi Pete,
I believe the gas prices in Peru compare to California. Diesel is a little bit cheaper, but we opted for a car with gasoline for a reason. We feel like we just got to South America, despite already being here for a year. We didn’t make it very far down yet! 🙂
We will most like stay at least another two years on this continent. We don’t know yet. It’s big and there is a lot to see and experience. Since this is our life, we can be flexible. We have a home on wheels now. Once we’re done with this trip, we will probably sell Thirsty Bella down here and figure out what’s next.
November 15, 2023 at 11:52
The beauty of your lifestyle is like it’s an open-ended story, one that has endless possibilities. Though happy with our life choices, I find your path courageous.
November 17, 2023 at 07:35
Hi Pete,
That’s a really nice way of saying it and looking at it. Very true. Our trip, adventure, and lifestyle has no end in sight, which gives us heaps of flexibility and opportunity. 🙂
November 13, 2023 at 15:56
Peru sounds fantastic, and I’m glad you are “overspending” on entrance fees. It seemed a shame to me that after all the hard work and investment in your epic South America trip, that you were passing up so many places in order to save $10 on admissions. Columbia was cheaper but sounded kind of miserable. Maybe the budget is overoptimistic given how prices everywhere are higher post-pandemic due to inflation, Ukraine war, etc?
November 14, 2023 at 12:19
Hi Marie!
True that! We do weigh the entrance fees against the potential rewards of the visit and try to find a balance. It would be a shame to miss out on the truly amazing sites, like Machu Picchu, but skipping a museum with a famous mummy, while we could see mummies elsewhere, we don’t feel too bad about. 🙂
There was a fabulous monastery in Arequipa that would have been interesting to explore, but with an entrance fee of over $12 a person, we figured we’d rather eat four lunch meals out with that amount of money. If we’d be tourists on a vacation (which most visitors here are), it would be a different situation. But because this is our lifestyle, we have to pick and choose what we can afford (or are willing the spend).
November 14, 2023 at 12:40
Still, having to choose between eating and seeing an interesting site? I’m all about frugaling but too bad your budget goals are so stringent. Do you both (three?) still feel having a bigger “home” than the van is worth the extra gas expense? I’m still trying to decide if and how I’d do a year-long full time trip, so your experiences are really interesting!
November 14, 2023 at 12:52
It’s not really choosing between eating and seeing an interesting site. We will never go hungry! 🙂 We mostly cook our own meals for about $3 per dinner, but it’s nice to “splurge” on eating out, which we try to keep to a minimum, usually. We both love food and eating out, sometimes more than sightseeing (especially Mark), hence my example.
Good question about the van versus truck camper ownership… We are so used to the comfort of Bella and the endurance of the truck at high altitude and on rough roads that we feel it’s the right choice for South America.
That being said, campervans are by far the most frequent vehicles down here. If it was just me, I would probably prefer a van for safety (you can hop into the back and front without opening any doors) and financial reasons (better fuel economy).
The fuel prices have been hurting us, because the truck consumes a lot (hence its name “Thirsty” :)), but, to be honest, the size of our truck camper has almost been as much a problem and annoyance when driving through towns in Colombia and Peru.
Still, the comfort we have when living inside (which is much more often than we drive) makes it all worthwhile. Since we are full timers and Thirsty Bella will be our home for close to five years, this comfort level is important. I hope that makes sense?
November 13, 2023 at 18:25
Toll booths burned during unrest? Well, small mercy for you.
November 14, 2023 at 12:22
Haha, Alex. Good point! While we don’t agree with violence and aggression during protests, it made for some cheaper roads these last few months.
November 13, 2023 at 18:36
Those are California gas prices! We are currently in Arizona and it’s almost $2 a gallon cheaper here. I’m so happy that I drive an EV. even though you are over budget, you are still doing pretty well.
November 14, 2023 at 12:24
Hi Janis,
I do wonder if a company at some point will come out with an EV camper. The best bet would be a van, I think. But, charging stations would be hard to find in the Andes Mountains of South America or the deserts of Mongolia and Africa!
We loved our Prius, the couple of years we had it. Nothing compares to that regarding fuel consumption, but we couldn’t live in it…
November 13, 2023 at 19:03
Hi, Liesbet – Even in an over-budget month for you, I still have no idea how you manage this all and live so frugally. Wishing you smoother days ahead!
November 14, 2023 at 12:26
Hi Donna!
I see our lifestyle as part work and part leisure, but I often feel like the biggest part of each day consists of work and challenges, whether it is to keep the lifestyle going, or financially. As long as the rewards are worth the sacrifices (regarding the budget and the logistics), we are happy campers. 🙂
November 13, 2023 at 19:23
It’s a good thing you have friends to help brighten up some of the murky days of travel: “We ordered car parts in the US, which our Canadian friends will bring back to us early December.”
Still, I see some beautiful scenery, yummy food, and notice you two are smiling on the floating reed islands. I wonder when you read your journal months and years from now, what will stand out, the pain or the pleasure?
November 14, 2023 at 12:31
Hi Marian,
As a person who writes, blogs, and journals, you have a good idea about the writing part in my life. It consumes a big part. 🙂 I sometimes wonder when and where I will reread those long, daily travel entries. I think the positive parts will stand out, but the challenges will make it a story if I ever write a book again. 🙂
We have made many friends over the last two decades and we are grateful for them! This month – and the next one – will be social ones, as we will be reunited with a few of them. A Canadian friend passing through Cusco, for example, gifted us real maple syrup a couple of days ago. That’s liquid gold to weary travelers, so this morning, Mark made blueberry pancakes and we (and friends) enjoyed this treat with maple syrup immensely.
I have family joining us later this month and good friends as well in December. All of them will bring parts (and goodies) we need/could use… 🙂
November 13, 2023 at 21:08
Hi Liesbet! Once again you’ve still managed fairly low expenses (even if you hoped for lower) and awed us all when you do! Yes gas is the wild card for all of us and weirdly it is around $5 a gallon in California but only about $3.20 here in Tucson. Who knows? But some of your photos are stunning so you are seeing awesome sites and it also sounds like you are getting together with friends. As long as you can keep managing that it will continue to be an amazing trip! ~Kathy
November 14, 2023 at 12:35
Hi Kathy,
As you know, it’s all about a balance in life – whether it is on the home front or on the road. We are trying to manage all that – financially, logistically, socially, physically, and psychologically.
And, yes, the rest of this year will be super social for us, something we are not used to. It has been a while. I am hoping this will mean more fun, but usually this comes with higher expenses – and more drinking and eating – as well. Again, we will aim for that balance. We are surely grateful for the likeminded people in our lives who we cross paths with on this journey.
November 14, 2023 at 08:51
Hi Liesbet, as beautiful as this experience is, (the photo of you guys over the salt pans and the colored mountains stand out) I sense a longing to find a place to settle. Maybe I am wrong. Somedays I’d like to burn a toll booth too. Seems like a reasonable protest to me.
November 14, 2023 at 12:44
Haha, Suzanne, your comment made me smile. We’ve seen quite a bit of damage from the protests early this year in Peru, including burned-down government buildings in the mountains and at the borders. Luckily, they have provisional offices now for customs & immigration, but some toll booths remain unoccupied and free.
Once in a while, we get exhausted in this life and, you are right, since Peru has been a bit ”difficult” on us, I am/was ready for a break from the road for a month or so. I actively looked for a place to rent in Cusco, but logistics and affordability didn’t allow a rental for now. Maybe next year somewhere else.
My main reason to settle for a month is to be able to focus on work, which has been challenging in combination with life’s challenges. We are – really – doing too many things every single day, which causes stress, frustration, and friction. Even though it appears that we are traveling very slowly (and we are, compared to other overlanders), we still have heaps going on.
Most other people who travel like us are on a gap year or a multiple-year break from their normal lives, so they have no restrictions on the budget or their time (they don’t work on the road or have deadlines), which creates a different sense of adventuring and enjoyment. Not complaining. Just stating the reality.
All to say that sitting still for a month here or there, once in a while, would be good to charge the batteries. And that’s why we are at a campground for a week now. To not drive and worry about logistics, but to work, take a daily hot shower, walk Maya in the woods, and hang out with friends. 🙂
November 14, 2023 at 13:08
Liesbet, I am glad you guys are taking a week to recharge. Your pace makes me dizzy, but everything you say here makes sense. There is a real difference between leisurely ‘gap’ travel and a lifestyle on the road. I never consider your comments as complaining, ‘it is what it is’, and you are a realist, so I get what you are saying. Take care.
November 16, 2023 at 22:01
Hi Suzanne,
It’s nice to sit still for a week, but it’s been busier than ever, unfortunately. Relaxing just doesn’t seem to be possible for us. The good thing is that we managed to make money working, but we also have camper and truck projects to attend to. This week is flying by! 🙁
November 14, 2023 at 20:20
It sounds like the Starlink was a great investment – safety, convenience, and enjoyment. Even though $1,500 is more expensive than you’re used to, you’re still doing very well considering the price of gas. I hope you enjoy a break from your hectic schedule soon!
November 17, 2023 at 07:30
Hi Diane,
We just love having our Starlink! Ironically, we haven’t been able to use it the last few days, because there is not enough sun anymore to keep our batteries solar charged, so we have to be careful with power. So, it’s back to annoying, unreliable, and crappy WiFi (from the campground…)
Not sure if it’s circumstances, our commitments, or our personalities, but we never seem to get a break. There’s always a to-do list of projects and work. But soon, we have to take it easier as my family is joining us. It’ll be a forced “vacation.” 🙂
November 15, 2023 at 09:51
Hi Liesbet–Somehow my comment got lost on its way to your post! I always love traveling with you. You make these trips where everything is new and unknown sound completely doable. Me, I’d be pretty nervous. Thanks for sharing.
November 17, 2023 at 07:32
Good morning Jacqui!
Sorry about the loss of your comment. That’s frustrating. Blame WordPress! 🙂
Sometimes, I wonder how we pull it off to travel around here like it’s nothing. But then I see other RVers do the same and it seems more manageable. It’s adventuresome and challenging, but the rewards never cease to enlighten or surprise us. Especially the scenery.
November 18, 2023 at 07:13
At leat Starlink is giving you a great service. I don’t mind paying a little extra if something is more reliable.
I was rather shocked by fuel costs, though. For some reason, I thought they’d be cheaper than is North America, but I guess if you guys were not driving as much, they would be.
good to see Maya keeping up with her vaccines, Liesbet. Vet fees seem less expensive than they are here in the UK.
November 18, 2023 at 14:45
Hi Hugh,
Starlink is a game changer. Almost a life saver! Definitively a mood saver as getting on the internet is now one less thing to be frustrated by. 🙂 That being said, because of the current cloudy skies, we are lacking sun power, so Starlink has to remain turned off while we use the inconsistent and often absent WiFi of our campground. Until our battery has more juice.
Fuel prices fluctuate a lot in the South American countries. Venezuela is dirt cheap, but it’s not safe there for tourists. Argentina is affordable as well, but Chile and Peru are expensive. It all depends on how much the fuel is taxed by the government.
Yes, vet fees have been affordable around here. We’ve never paid more than the equivalent of $20 for anything. 🙂
November 21, 2023 at 18:21
Hi Liesbet. Considering everything in the world has gone up in greedy prices, you’re still doing cheaper than most citizens around the world. Groceries so cheap is worth the price of admission. 🙂 P.S. are you going to Argentina with their new authoritarian colorful president? 🙂 xx
November 24, 2023 at 16:03
Hi Debby!
I could have known that you are following international politics closely! 🙂
We actually couldn’t wait to get to Argentina until recently, because life is very cheap there for visitors with American dollars – and we can’t wait to find fabulous wine that’s super affordable. At this point, based on the current elections, we will see what happens. We won’t be there for another two months at least. But, yes, we were hoping to spend a few months in that country soon, to settle a bit and save money.
November 24, 2023 at 20:08
Lol Liesbet. Oh yes, I follow very closely. And I know you will want to go there. Just pay attention to the temperature there in the coming months. Yes, good wine! Stay safe. <3
November 25, 2023 at 10:26
Thanks, Debby! We could actually use some better weather. 🙂 It’s been cold and rainy in the Sacred Valley – not ideal to explore the area with family. Hoping to luck out with better weather at Machu Picchu soon…
November 25, 2023 at 11:41
I hope you find some warmer weather soon. Go south my friend! Lol 🙂 xx
December 19, 2023 at 20:40
Going east at the moment… We just arrived in Bolivia, still at high (and chilly) elevation! 🙂
December 20, 2023 at 08:46
Wow! I have noticed your silence. Travel safe and Merry South American Christmas. <3
December 20, 2023 at 14:36
Thank you, dear Debby! Happy holidays to you, too, my friend! xxx
December 27, 2023 at 22:14
I’m assuming Americans need visas for Bolivia but Europeans don’t? It’s amazing that Peruvians can afford to drive with prices like that. I wonder why they are so high?
I know November’s expenses were even higher since I’ve already read the post. I hope the new year brings some relief from all the spending. And a little rest from the road.
January 3, 2024 at 14:38
You are right, Duwan. Americans need a visa to visit Bolivia ($160), as well as some other nationalities (South Africans, Chinese, Koreans… – $30; Indians – around $80, I believe). Europeans and Canadians don’t need a visa. Which is why I was adamant to use my Belgian passport upon entry – something I’d been trying to switch to previously. I made the mistake to enter Colombia on my US passport and then I somewhat got “locked in.”
Some Peruvians – like in Mexico – have converted their fuel tanks to propane gas. And, most don’t drive much. The indigenous people don’t have cars. Collectivos and other small vans for public transportation – and even taxis – are extremely popular. I think the fuel prices are so high, because of the taxes.
Your hopes for us have come through already. 🙂 In January, we are getting relief from lots of spending and we are planning a bit more rest, here in La Paz.