“Where are you going first?”
This is not a weird question at all, when you talk to people hitting the road indefinitely. And the poser of said question might get annoyed with the ever-present “We don’t know yet” answer coming from our mouths.
But, first things first; Mark and I had to take care of a few specifics before an actual destination could be determined. Once our departure from Newburyport became imminent – the truck camper was taking shape, the bikes didn’t fall of the new ladder rack, help was in place for my in-laws, ties with friends and family were rekindled, and personal projects reached a stopping point – we could finally look at a map.
Two days before we coasted out of the driveway with our dog, Maya, and our belongings, Mark and I decided to head towards Chicago, Illinois, after visiting a couple of friends in Massachusetts and New York. I contacted three sets of friends in the Windy City, aka Chi-Town, to gauge their availability and location for a meet-up. Then, on September 17th, 2021, the three of us left Newburyport for the last time with a new-to-us vehicle and – somewhat of – a plan!
A quick, one-night stop at good friends in Uxbridge, MA, was followed by a Saturday night visit to a work friend of Mark’s in New York, who cooked his staple meat-loaden pasta sauce for us, following an amazing family recipe.
It was on Sunday, when our trip west was to start in earnest, that we realized we weren’t in a rush anymore. Why hurry to Chicago? We’d returned to our own home, our own routine, our own lives, our own priorities. We were our own boss again with few responsibilities! And, the weather was unseasonably pleasant with temperatures in the mid-70s Fahrenheit (mid-20s Celsius).
“Let’s explore New York a bit,” I exclaimed. A state so close by, yet so far away, as I’d never actually ventured into upstate New York for any length of time, other than quick visits – to our friend Sean and Mark’s college town Troy once, when on one of our many road trips across the USA.
(As always, click on or hover over photos to read captions.)
Schenectady
Mark grew up in Schenectady. I’m pretty good at spelling, but when he challenged me with this one years ago, I miserably failed. To make matters worse, Mark also lived in Niskayuna, a town to its east. I still have to look up how to write that one. But, I’m happy to say that I finally visited both cities, thanks to our friend Sean, who offered us a quick tour, that Sunday of our “real departure.”
While both men convinced me there is “nothing to see” in Schenectady, I enjoyed a stroll through the Stockade, an 82-acre historic district located on the banks of the Mohawk River. It is the oldest neighborhood in the city and has been continuously inhabited for more than 300 years. The National Park Service describes it as “the highest concentration of historic period homes in the country.” It is here that Mark’s parents used to own a house, while their son attended college and lived on campus nearby.
Sean also drove us through the campus of Union College, which relit the flame of my appreciation and awe of university campuses in the US. They are so grotesque, beautiful, peaceful, and well-kept. Nothing like the colleges in Belgium. What’s a road trip without a good theme? In the past, I’ve been infatuated by – and driven to see – capitol buildings whenever we encountered a state capital. This time, it would be college campuses!
Ithaca
“Where should we stop on our way through New York,” I’d asked Sean.
“Ithaca is pretty nice,” came the reply.
What did I know? Looking at the map, I was drawn to a green zone with a river and lots of trails… belonging to Cornell University, an Ivy League school on the edge of town. Yes, a college campus, let’s go! Mark was less enthusiastic and for good reason. Our truck bounced around on awful city roads bordered by congested sidewalks full of students. What did I know?
Each time we wanted to turn towards the “green zone,” we were met by a sign posting a 5-ton weight limit. Our set-up is heavier, so we couldn’t go. All the parking lots required permits. A walk about the peaceful Cornell campus seemed impossible.
We pulled over at an administrative building and Mark peered at Google Maps. “Let’s go here,” he suggested, pointing at what looked like a small river park. An hour of wasteful, stressful, and searchful driving around and through the college town ended at a parking lot where we could breathe again. We walked Maya to and in the river. I followed its bank for a bit and looked around the corner, to come eye to eye with a massive waterfall! Where did that come from? So close to town? I was baffled by this unexpected sight.
“Didn’t you know Ithaca is famous for its gorges and waterfalls?” Mark stated. Nope! But you could have told me, growing up in Upstate New York!
Our moods brightened, we drove further into the neighborhood, found another decent parking spot, discovered the Cascadilla Glen Trail, and I was mesmerized as we followed the stream up-river and passed multiple good-size waterfalls and rapids, to finish high up at… Cornell University.
“Imagine going to school here and walking home or to class every day through a natural environment like this!” I noted.
“The students get numb to it,” Mark said. “And, don’t forget, everything will soon be covered in snow.”
I guess he knows what he’s talking about, since his ex-wife went to school here.
Watkins Glen State Park
After the hubbub of the last weeks – preparing, researching, socializing, driving – Mark, Maya, and I were ready for some peace. Browsing our favorite, primary resource iOverlander for free places to camp, we discovered a developed campground near the town of Watkins Glen in the Finger Lakes region. Grassy sites. Bathrooms. Picnic tables. Water spigots. Trash and recycle bins. Trails. Space. Peace; other than a neighbor running his generator from 8am to 10pm!
There was to be one more sunny day before the rain would arrive and envelop us for a couple of days. So, internet work and catching up on emails would have to wait one more day, as we really wanted to check out Watkins Glen State Park, which Mark had stumbled upon when looking online for hiking trails in Ithaca. The park sounded mighty nice and, for once, we didn’t mind spending money on entertainment. An entire $10 (per car). Was it worth it? See for yourself…
There was only one caveat to doing the recommended 3-mile Gorge Trail: no dogs allowed. We took Maya for a 3-mile hike above the canyon, creating a loop of multiple dog-friendly trails and peeking down the gorge a few times.
Then, after a quick lunch in the camper, we left Maya alone in her new home for the first time, and “quickly” hiked the spectacular lower trail, taking photos and trying to avoid the crowds at the same time. We are happy to report that the scenery was worth the ten dollars and that a separation-anxiety prone Maya did okay on her own. No more books or rolls of paper towel were devoured.
Letchworth State Park
We’d been gone for a week already when we left Watkins Glen. Wow. Fall was approaching quickly and some of our friends would leave Chicago within weeks as well. Time to keep heading west! Letchworth State Park stared at me from the map and from Lonely Planet.
“That’s the park Holly mentioned.” Mark remembered our friend recommending a visit to this park.
“I guess that means we have to go,” I decided, realizing it wasn’t exactly on our route west. “It beats sitting around this campground another day and listening to that generator.”
Maya enjoys grassy environments.
So, we topped off our fresh water tank – still not trusting the digital gauges – and drove to Letchworth ($10 per car) for another 7-mile hike.
First, we followed the river for five miles on (yep) another Gorge Trail and then we added a 2-mile detour through the forest to the mix. This was an off-the-beaten path Mark found on the free version of AllTrails with no other soul. It was peaceful and liberating, for all of us. Maya could run and sniff to her heart’s content and I finally started to let go of the stress and rushed feeling that kept following me after leaving Newburyport.
New York state was exceeding all expectations, which is easy to do when you don’t have expectations! But, seriously, if you’re looking for a waterfall paradise and natural settings, this is it.
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October 4, 2021 at 19:05
How can it be…among the first to comment. I see you are actually in Chicago, where my children lived for 10 years before they came to Florida.
But you are writing about New York. One of my first subscribers who became a mentor and book reviewer lives now in Niskayuna, NY, a place I don’t expect to visit anytime soon.
About running water, I love it unless it’s a plumbing problem. Your waterfall photos are lovely, like many we saw in the Ozarks this summer. Heigh-ho!
October 5, 2021 at 12:26
You were the first to comment to this post, Marian! Congrats. And you are full of facts and (plumbing) humor. 🙂
So, you must know Chicago really well then. I had never really explored this city and was pleasantly surprised with its architecture and shoreline and many green spaces. Funny about Niskayuna as well. Such a lovely name for a town and it is rare to meet or know people who have lived there. The Ozarks sound like a beautiful area as well. We will have to return to New York one day…
October 4, 2021 at 19:09
Congratulations on being able to get out a nd on the road again. We are about an hour give or take from Watkins Glen, so you were not very far. So glad you can take the time to visit places as you get used to living in your new digs. We have had dogs with separation anxiety, glad that Maya did well when you were on your hike. Best, Michele
October 5, 2021 at 12:29
Oh Michele! I had no idea that you lived that close to Watkins Glen and the Finger Lakes – such a fabulous area. And so many places to go to enjoy a walk and being nature.
Maya won the jackpot when we adopted her, as we do anything for our dogs and spend 24/7 with them, resulting in many walks, lots of healthy attention, and being in tune with their needs. Separation anxiety is a tough one, but we keep working on being able to leave Maya alone for short lengths of time.
October 4, 2021 at 20:06
I’m so glad to read that you are on your own time, Liesbet–that notion has been your main motivator in life, with which you’ve had to compromise for a while now. How smart to drive to New York and just take your time to see the sights! Gorgeous! How is the camper? You’ve both worked so hard to get to this point. Enjoy every moment and just breathe!
October 5, 2021 at 12:33
Hello Terri!
It’s so funny how it almost came as an afterthought, the realization of “Wait a minute, we can – and should – actually slow down!” 🙂 We are doing pretty well, following your advice about enjoying every moment. It’s nice!
The camper is treating us well. I’ll write an update about it one of these weeks as well. I now have quite a few stories, experiences, and sights to share already and am trying to not feel pressure or guilt about being behind on my blog – and everywhere else. I really don’t want to be a slave to the internet or my computer anymore. Enough of that! 🙂
October 4, 2021 at 21:48
The luxury of not having to be somewhere at a given day are these on the fly explorations. My dad attended Cornell, Having never been there, before, I was most fascinated by those photos.
October 5, 2021 at 12:37
How interesting about your father going to Cornell University, Pete. It is a very pretty, expansive (and expensive probably :)) campus and I would have loved to walk around and between the buildings. That didn’t happen. But, the natural areas are very special too.
I agree that the luxury of time is a huge one and one that we have been able to enjoy most of our lives. I used to say that we are not rich in money, but we are rich in time. We are getting back to that commodity. And, having time also means that Mark can research what to buy, when, and where, which saves us heaps of money. This brings me to the little known fact that Mark saves money, I make (a little bit of) money, and we both spend money. 🙂
October 4, 2021 at 22:25
Hey Liesbet! AWESOME waterfalls. And even better when they are a surprise! So glad you are able to explore and enjoy the beautiful trails and nature as you gradually work your way west! ~Kathy
October 5, 2021 at 12:40
Hi Kathy!
Thank you for the sentiments. Waterfalls remain special to me, since they are close to non-existent in Belgium, where I grew up. I’ve seen plenty around the world since then, but they still mesmerize. 🙂
How did the traveling lifestyle treat you and Thom? Will you repeat a similar journey in the future?
October 5, 2021 at 07:39
That is a lot of waterfalls! Just beautiful.
I think Ithaca is a HP Lovecraft creature…
October 5, 2021 at 12:41
You know your craft, Alex! I had to look up HP Lovecraft and didn’t even realize he was an author – his photo and his work look pretty creepy to me. Poor town of Ithaca!
October 5, 2021 at 08:38
Liesbet, like I mentioned on your Instagram photos, ‘upstate NY is the mecca of waterfalls.’ I am glad Mark finally introduced you to this magical place. It is not possible to see and do all this area has to offer in one trip, but you guys did a credible job! Your photos from Watkins Glen are stunning.
October 5, 2021 at 12:46
You are so right about the expansiveness of New York state and all its sights to behold. Who would have known? Apparently, anybody but me, haha. I do love that surprise effect and am growing appreciation of states that I didn’t think much about. After all our travels I have seriously realized that every state (and certainly country) has a certain beauty to it, somewhere. You either look for it, read or hear about it, or stumble upon it, like the covered bridges of Madison County that we managed to drive past without realizing it until we looked at one of “those many brown signs along the way.” Like you, I love waterfalls and could never get enough of them. I just have to convince Mark about all these personal realizations… We better soak up the greenery and lushness before we head back to the desert southwest! 🙂
October 5, 2021 at 09:39
I can almost feel your mind and body unclenching and exhaling now that you are back out on your own. Not that your time in MA was bad at all, but you two were meant to roam about! Nice first leg!
October 5, 2021 at 12:49
Hi Lexie! I’m so glad you are coming along for this indefinite road trip! And, you totally get my drift. It is always such a adjustment – mostly mentally – to change gears from a comfortable room with heaps of expectations from others to being back on our own in a little space again. And, physically, there are changes too, as we resume multiple-mile hikes almost daily instead of taking Maya for an easy one-hour city walk. Speaking of cities… Guess who I saw a few days ago?? 🙂
October 7, 2021 at 09:48
Lisa? (I think that is our only friend in common!)
October 7, 2021 at 12:57
Correct! 🙂 But there is more… Think Airbnb. 🙂
October 9, 2021 at 22:41
Pete and Ben?! I’m jealous if so!
October 9, 2021 at 22:41
Peta. Damn autocorrect.
October 13, 2021 at 13:05
🙂
October 13, 2021 at 13:06
You got it! But, it was too quick and too short of a time together.
October 5, 2021 at 09:42
What a lovely start to your trip. I’m with you–if they won’t take Maya, move on!
I see on your map you’ve already made it to Chicago. Some great sights there!
October 5, 2021 at 12:51
Hi Jacqui! Chicago has been a nice surprise – to me. The other person in my household has some connection to this city as his ex-wife is from here. So far, I just love this city. I could never live here (too busy and to freaking cold in winter), but as a tourist, visitor, or house sitter I could easily immerse myself for a month. And, I will certainly keep that in mind. 🙂
October 5, 2021 at 16:09
Amazing waterfalls! What a beautiful area to hike in.
October 5, 2021 at 17:59
Thanks, Anabel. It’s as good as it gets up north. 🙂
October 5, 2021 at 17:55
We are lucky to have friends who live in the Finger Lakes area so we had tour guides when we visited several years ago. Watkins Glen was definitely a stand-out experience. It’s such a relief to be able to travel as fast or slow as you want. Chicago is a great city (but, like you, not in the winter) and the architecture is fabulous. Happy trails to you and Mark!
October 5, 2021 at 18:00
Thank you, Janis! We’re having a lovely time so far, combining sights, driving, and visiting with friends. Speaking of which… you might know a few of them, currently in Chicago! 🙂
October 5, 2021 at 20:31
Isn’t it awesome when we suddenly realize that expectations have been lifted and we actually CAN s-l-o-w down?! (In its own way, my current week has been like that too). I’m delighted to read that your travels have begun so well. I greatly look forward to continuing to follow.
October 6, 2021 at 15:16
Right, Donna!? Slowing down is good. Sometimes, there is a mental barrier that doesn’t allow us to do so. Often, it’s the circumstances around us – and the priorities that come with those – keeping us alert and too busy. Sigh!
I’m glad you are following along…
October 7, 2021 at 00:36
Wow, what stunning scenery! I never knew that part of the country had so many waterfalls. Congratulations on your “new start” – I hope you find lots of other beautiful stress-free places in your travels. 🙂
October 7, 2021 at 12:54
Hi Diane! I guess New York and its waterfalls would be as much a surprise to you as it was to me. Canadians are spoiled with natural beauty and waterfalls, though. It was nice to soak up the lushness up north, before we head back to the deserts of the southwest! 🙂
October 7, 2021 at 11:06
We discovered Upstate New York several years ago and have returned a few times since. Lots to see and do there. I’m glad you “discovered” it for yourselves.
October 7, 2021 at 12:59
You two are so much more familiar with the sights and beauty of New England! The waterfall surprises in NY were nice, for sure. By the way, we have been missing aspects of our Westy! More about that in a future post.
October 7, 2021 at 14:01
I like the gorge! Of course we had plans to visit the Finger Lakes area before we changed gears entirely. Beautiful! Hate we missed it.
Schenectady! I used to bartend down the street from a GE plant in Greenville, SC. So many of my customers that worked for GE were transplants from Schenectady. Spelling it is interesting but also saying it out loud.
October 7, 2021 at 15:27
Funny how you learned about Schenectady. It does sound wonderful as well. 🙂
Sorry you missed the Finger Lakes. We only scratched the surface by visiting those two parks and places. Apparently, the local wine is good as well. No experience with that.
While I’m glad we spent a little bit of time in New York, in general, I’d like to travel and move even slower, with multiple-day stops at a time. Right now, we are on a move every day again. Exhausting! But, Mark rather spends the last good days of the fall in the Badlands instead of Minnesota. I can’t blame him. 🙂
October 8, 2021 at 10:40
Super! I’m so glad you went and explored New York State. It’s something I always to do, but we always ended up in the city. I recall wanting to live in New York State when I was in my late teens. I don’t know why, but that part of the world was a real attraction back then.
Glad to hear that Maya was ok as a stay-alone-at-home dog for a few hours. That’s good news. Far better than the sound of that awful generator.
What I found strange about your photos of Stockade, was no people! Was it really that quiet? It almost looks like a ghost town, beautiful, but quite eerie.
And I love the surprise of the waterfall on your walk. That’s something I’d have been very pleased with discovering.
Looks like a great trip, Liesbet. I bet you’re so pleased to be on your travels again.
October 8, 2021 at 16:07
Hi Hugh!
It’s so interesting how we have ideas and aspirations when we are in our teens. How they are often not based on anything particular and how they change over the years. I hope you managed to hop north to upstate New York one day, when heading past the city.
When I was a teenager, I never wanted to go to the US, as it sounded like everyone wanted to go and it sounded overrated. I could have never guessed I’d eventually spend years in this country – or I’d become a citizen!!
I often try to take photos without people. In the case of the Stockade, I wanted Mark, Maya, and our friend Sean in some of them, but strangers were not welcome. In my photos. Generally speaking, if it can be avoided. 🙂 It was relatively quiet on that walk.
One of the reasons why Watkins Glen – while beautiful – was not our highlight in New York is because of the amount of people. None of them even tried to keep a distance when passing each other or wore a mask. Granted, it was outside and we didn’t wear a mask either (we kept six feet apart), but the mentality of some tourists rubbed me wrong at that particular site.
Yes, I am happy to be back on the road. Not that it has been challenge-free, but the positives – like unexpectedly discovering natural beauty – have outweighed the negatives so far.
Thank you for being such an engaging reader and happy weekend!
October 11, 2021 at 18:50
Loved traveling along on this mini venture with you through New York, Liesbet. Personally, I’d take Chicago for a visit again before New York. Enjoy! <3
October 13, 2021 at 14:04
Hi Debby! Happy to have you along for the ride. One of my upcoming blogs will touch on Chicago. It’s called the Windy City, but we lucked out with the weather there. Unlike right now, in The Badlands of South Dakota, where 75+ km winds are shaking us up and causing havoc after two days of non-stop heavy rains… Not much enjoying until we reach warmer climes at this point.