My cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, were helpful and accommodating as ever, when they suggested joining us for a ten-day car vacation in Southern France and then taking us home to Belgium afterwards. All we had to do was slow down until they arrived on April 16th.
Initially, we had grand plans to explore northern Spain during that time, but when we found out that big dogs are not allowed on trains in that part of the country, those ideas shattered. Instead, we rented an apartment in Libourne, France, for a week, not too far from where we’d meet Griet and Wim.
Route Porto – Libourne
The only task at hand still was to get there from Porto, Portugal. Because of the above-mentioned issue, however, Maya was not allowed on the international train from Porto to Vigo (Spain) either. This resulted in Mark and me taking different train journeys north on April 8th. He rode all the way to Vigo with three pieces of luggage, while I took Maya and the two smaller bags on a full train to the Portuguese town that was closest to the border with Spain, namely Valença.
Mark picked up a rented cargo van in Vigo and drove it back across the border into Portugal to pick us up at the Valença train station around noon. A cargo van was the most affordable way to rent a car one way, for one day.
Our small cargo van
The next 24 hours consisted of lots of driving, with Maya in the closed-off back part, which she didn’t like. The electronic dashboard broke and the data disappeared, so we needed to get a speedometer app for the phone and place it in a secure spot. We ate sandwich lunches underway, stretched our legs once in six hours, and checked into a mediocre hotel two-thirds across Northern Spain. Hunting for a crappy take-out dinner in the middle of nowhere concluded this exhausting day.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
The following morning was more of the same, except much worse. After skipping breakfast and a few hours of driving, Mark dropped Maya and me – and all our luggage – off at the train station of Hendaye, just across the border in France. Then, he backtracked by car into Spain and dropped the one-way van off in Irun. This chore was supposed to take half an hour, including the Uber ride back to me. We had a high-speed train to catch to Bordeaux around 1pm.
After not hearing from Mark after an hour, I got worried. Luckily, train stations in France offer free WiFi (my phone doesn’t have a SIM card) and I found out the cargo van had incurred damage within those 24 hours we rented it. We had no idea how it happened – and definitely never heard or felt something when we were inside – but there were scratches along the driver’s side.
All we had done was drive and park three times. Someone must have run into the van when it had been parked. Or scratched it up on purpose. We figured our credit card insurance would take care of it. But we found out a few days ago that they didn’t. Apparently, cargo vans aren’t covered. Lesson learned: only rent passenger cars. This unfortunate event that wasn’t even our fault cost us $650!!!
After dealing with the damage report at the rental office, Mark failed to find a taxi and had to walk/run the hour back to me in France in order to make our reserved TGV train. Needless to say, this was another bad day.
Libourne and surroundings
Libourne
Mark and I finally had good seats on this comfortable long-distance train which brought us to Bordeaux in 2.5 hours. From there, we took a slower, 30-minute ride to Libourne followed by a 15-minute walk and two flights of narrow stairs to our next rental accommodation, a top-floor apartment. Hauling up all our bags was a bit tough, but at least we wouldn’t hear anybody above us this time.
This apartment was not made for tall people. The bed was in an alcove, the closet was pretty much unaccessible, and we removed the shelf above the sink to prevent bleeding foreheads. The kitchen table and chairs were uncomfortable so we avoided using them. None of the windows opened wide or offered a view. We couldn’t even tell what the weather was. The bathroom was fantastic, though, except for the leaking sink and sewage smell. The hallway smelled like sewage as well. It was either that or air fresheners. Which one would you pick?
During our week in Libourne, we explored the small town, walked to grocery stores, and took Maya for strolls and playtime in the amazing park nearby. We were immediately enchanted by the friendly locals and their positive attitude towards dogs.
Since the weather was bad in the beginning, we stayed close to home and kept focusing on Vario research and figuring out insurance and registration options as non-European residents. But the two less rainy days were devoted to excursions.
Saint-Emilion
Our idea had been to walk two hours to Saint-Emilion – through the countryside and vineyards – and take the train back after exploring the town. A quarter of the way there, we realized I had forgotten to pack Maya’s muzzle. This meant we’d have to walk there and back, since large dogs are only allowed on French trains when wearing a muzzle. That would be too much exercise, or one very expensive Uber ride.
So, Mark and Maya continued on their long walk and I returned to our apartment to grab her muzzle, jog to the train station, and hop on the next train to Saint-Emilion. I would meet my companions at the station there.
Except, when I arrived and looked at Google Maps offline, I realized this tiny, closed-up train station was way out of town. There was no reason for Mark and Maya to make such a detour on foot to pick me up. But I couldn’t reach them. (My smartphone is a dumb phone, remember.)
Thanks to a friendly employee at a telecommunications business next to the tracks, I managed to contact Mark via their WiFi network and meet my companions in the center of town instead.
While unaffordable for common folks like us (which is why we didn’t stay here or eat lunch out), Saint-Emilion is super cute and could be taken straight out of a fairytale.
Because it’s small, we made a few loops through the walled center, randomly following different alleys, photographing lots of historic buildings and scenes, and slowly taking it all in.
Bordeaux
Mark was not interested in seeing yet another city and the train fare was high for Maya, so I went for a solo excursion into Bordeaux, on the Garonne River.
I enjoy me-time and exploring new places, so I didn’t mind strolling through the city for hours and taking in the architecture, the many squares and parks, and the atmosphere.
For being a big city, Bordeaux had a relaxed feel about it and offered a fair amount of open plazas and green spaces throughout the center. Plus, exploring the city by foot was good exercise for me. I walked 23,000 steps and 10 miles!
On April 16th, the next stage of our trip would start at the train station of Périgueux, where my cousin and her husband picked us up to explore the Dordogne region together. Stay tuned!
Next up: Visiting the Dordogne Region in Southern France with family
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary
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May 19, 2026 at 9:38 am
Between the train and car problems, a $650 charge, trying to sort things out for Maya, and then discovering the apartment wasn’t quite what you expected, this really felt like one of those stretches where everyday life completely takes over the travel plans. I actually appreciated that you stayed honest about that instead of pretending every week in France automatically turns into some perfect carefree experience. One minute it’s logistics and frustration, and the next it’s a solo trip into Bordeaux with stone streets and beautiful scenery. And 23,000 steps!!!!! What roller-coaster ride in France. Thanks for sharing. Jim
May 20, 2026 at 6:33 am
Hi Jim,
When I read your posts – and especially your three-month break in Vienna – I realize how much nicer and comfortable life is when one slows down. While we played with that idea as well for our time before arriving in Belgium, the chance of renting an apartment or house for one or two months at a time and it then having too many problems was too high. And I’m sure that’s budget related.
By renting two weeks at a time, on average, it gave us enough opportunity to visit the surrounding areas and it allowed us to leave after not too long if the place sucked.
As for this week-long apartment rental in Libourne, I don’t think we would have enjoyed staying there any longer. We only had one key which we needed for our door and the main entrance door (this made it tricky if only one of us left for a chunk of time) and the stairways were extremely narrow so we worried about Maya tripping and falling down them. We always kept her on a tight leash when going up and down these steps.
May 19, 2026 at 10:28 am
You and Mark have a successful marriage–and travel strategy–because you know how to pivot, even traveling separately if need be.
I enjoyed especially the segment on Bordeaux, which features fascinating architecture and scenery. But, walking 23,000 steps and 10 miles! is beyond me. Of course, I hope your next experience will be smoother and without discomfort for you guys or Maya. Safe travels! 😀
May 20, 2026 at 6:39 am
Hi Marian,
We do feel like we are compatible and a good team within our relationship. And when it comes to staying with Maya because she’s not allowed somewhere, there is a healthy balance as well.
When the activity is nature-related, like hiking in a national park, Mark usually enjoys these ventures and I stay behind with Maya (I get migraines when exerting myself anyway). When it comes to cities, museums, or special excursions, I usually get to go and Mark stays with Maya (he has less interest in these things). When it’s an attractive restaurant that doesn’t allow dogs, we both pass on it. Having a dog – especially a separation anxious one – we have to make “sacrifices.”
That amount of walking is not usually our thing either. We are happy when we can get to 10,000 steps a day, which is not so easy.
May 19, 2026 at 11:01 am
Gosh, Liesbet! What a rollercoaster, life is never simple for you. Glad you figured the journey out even if it was convoluted – and expensive. I haven’t been to Bordeaux though I know I have been to St Emilion. I just can’t remember when or why!
May 20, 2026 at 6:45 am
Hi Anabel,
We actually were very ignorant about Saint-Emilion before we arrived. I had noticed online the high costs there for accommodation rentals and lunch menus, but my penny about the usual clientele there didn’t drop until we saw the fancy scene in person. And I had no idea this area was famous for wine either, until we walked through the vineyards and saw all the wine cellars. You live and learn. 🙂
Maybe you went there as part of a tour in the region?
And, yes, our life is never simple. I’d like to think that’s because of our lifestyle, but apparently just staying in my parents summer house and being quiet at the moment, still brings challenges. Like a broken hot water heater, a stove that can’t be set low enough to prevent food from burning, and having to walk and fill jugs to have potable water. It must be us!
May 20, 2026 at 7:52 am
Oh we knew it was the home of very expensive wine! Been pondering and I think it must have been at the end of a cycling holiday when the transport back to the airport stopped off there – no doubt the driver would have got commission if we had bought anything which I don’t think we did. This would have been late 80s.
May 20, 2026 at 8:24 am
That sounds plausible, Anabel. Your memory is just fine! And I didn’t know that you used to cycle as well.
May 20, 2026 at 8:30 am
Yes, we both cycled in the 80s then both stopped in the 90s sometime! Only John took it up again during lockdown.
May 22, 2026 at 2:19 am
A very fit man!
May 19, 2026 at 11:18 am
I completely impressed with your train boondoggle and how you handled all the problems. I would be exhausted. I was also sad seeing Maya in her muzzle. Guilty without a chance to prove her innocence. Sigh.
May 20, 2026 at 6:49 am
Jacqui,
We get exhausted from living like this as well. I’m happy to report that we are taking a break from traveling in Belgium right now. Of course, our feet are starting to itch already.
And, yes, we hate putting that muzzle on Maya’s nose. We bought an extra big one, so she can still pretty much do anything (except scrounging on the floors). That being said, whenever we had a chance on the train, we removed it. The kinds of seats we had and her “exposure” to people walking by defined this. I only got yelled at once by a conductor. 🙂
May 19, 2026 at 11:25 am
I love all the architecture and the vineyards. Great photos. Your trip across Spain seemed like a well-solved logistical problem. So sorry about the damage to the car. That really hurts.
May 20, 2026 at 6:51 am
Hi Duwan,
The entire journey from the moment we brought the long-term rental car back, was a logistical nightmare. Our first plan to boogie it up to Belgium as soon as possible would have meant less logistics, less costs, and less accommodation rentals and research. And it would have meant being able to buy a Vario van, but that’s another topic. We did have a nice time exploring new villages and places and seeing my family.
May 19, 2026 at 5:06 pm
You see some fantastic things but all the troubles you have getting to them! And I love animals but I can see traveling with one is not a good thing. May the rest of this journey be better.
May 20, 2026 at 6:53 am
Thanks, Alex. As I’ve said before: having these travels as a lifestyle is very different than going on vacation. Whether it is with a dog or without. The budget is not there to find comfortable rentals, apparently. And that comes with extra challenges and compromises. Having a pet and being in a budget means that we “need” to travel in a camper. That’s the conclusion.
May 19, 2026 at 9:49 pm
Saint-Emilion and Bordeaux both look so charming and pleasant. What a good girl Maya is to wear the muzzle so cooperatively!
May 20, 2026 at 7:23 am
Hi Lexie,
What we found is that if the muzzle sits correctly on her snout, Maya is usually okay with it. But, when the top strap is too much to the left or right (covering an eye), she starts rubbing the thing against the seats or your legs. And if she has to wear it for too long, she starts hating it as well.
We searched, bought, and first tried this “oversized” muzzle on her in La Paz, Bolivia, where she needed it on the cable cars. This was a much more extensive use of it, though, and she did surprisingly well.
May 20, 2026 at 1:57 am
I am told rental agencies are now using AI to compare vehicle bodies on return with condition when they were picked up. The slightest bits of change are getting charged to renters. So renting is not a great deal these days.
May 20, 2026 at 7:25 am
That’s crazy, Lois. Mark has heard about this AI checking of rental cars being tested in the US, but we haven’t noticed anything similar in Europe so far. As you can imagine, not having our own vehicle is getting old…
May 20, 2026 at 5:50 am
What a rollercoaster of a post. Poor Mark having to do that long walk between Spain and France, especially after having to deal to the damage claim to the rental van.
The pictures of the rental apartment make it look very nice, but all those problems with it must have had you both holding your heads in your hands. Maya looks chilled out on the sofa, though.
I’m glad to hear you got to do some sightseeing. Both Saint-Emilion and Bordeaux look beautiful.
I see from the Google map you are back in Belgium, hopefully with lots of creature-comforts.
May 20, 2026 at 7:28 am
Oh, Hugh. We’ve had some unpleasant days the last few months, but – as everyone keeps pointing out to me – that’s life!
Maya is always the most comfortable of our trio. And we do everything we can to make it so. 🙂 The big issue with her, these months, is that she really has come to hate car travel. That’s a problem in our lifestyle.
While those three months in Southern Europe were intense, we did enjoy all the sightseeing and traveling we were able to do. Our current life here in Belgium is pretty dull in comparison. But we were ready for a break from the road.