One Month in La Paz, Bolivia – As Campground Hosts

The Opportunity

When we first arrived at Las Lomas Campground in La Paz, Bolivia, on Christmas Day, we couldn’t wait to leave. It had been a pain to get here, the nasty approach caused damage to the camper before we arrived, the place was busy and tight, and we had an engine problem.

Soon, however, the cozy environment grew on us. When we learned the owner, Marcos, was leaving on vacation for one month the next day and could use an overlander couple to watch his property and manage the campground, we made a quick decision. We committed to the job. Free camping with amenities in exchange for running this small (and at that moment quiet) business seemed fair – and our trio was more than ready for a break from the road!

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The Campground Tasks

The first day we were “on duty,” only our Canadian friends Jeff and Sheri were here. We could get used to this! Being responsible for a small property and a couple of buildings we kept tidy, and sitting outside in the sun, chatting, lying low…

Then, one after another camper showed up and soon, the place was filled to the brim with German and French visitors. Mark and I played Tetris to fit them all onto the property. Someone needed to spend their first night on the street, since there was no more room inside. And, when one vehicle wanted to leave, others had to move around and exit the gate to accommodate the departing campers. That was the scene for a good two weeks, over and after the holidays.

Our usual tasks consisted of sweeping the porch twice a day (so leaves wouldn’t block the drainage system), watering plants, tidying up the common rooms, mopping wet floors, making sure there was always enough toilet paper and the trash cans didn’t overflow in the two bathrooms (in Latin America, soiled toilet paper goes into a garbage bin, not the toilet), putting the trash on the street three times a week, refilling and dealing with fresh water jugs and propane tanks (for cooking and hot water), greeting and hosting new arrivals, getting them settled, giving them a tour of the facilities, and helping them with questions.

We also needed to keep track of the financials and let people in when they rang the doorbell.

Besides these easy, common tasks, we found ourselves become pet sitters and travel agents as well. Twice, we watched and took care of dogs for the day, and once, I arranged a bike tour for a group of campers, including myself and Jeff, and I happily kept sharing my favorite way of visiting the city.

This month of being settled was very welcome. I never did string up a hammock, relaxed on the couch, or read a book during this time, but it was a nice change from having to drive, research, hunt for water, food, and fuel, and find decent camping spots.

The Neighborhood

While Las Lomas is located in an upscale neighborhood of La Paz, with patches of farm land the indigenous people hold on to, the roads are terrible with potholes, speedbumps, and mud after it rains. But it was nice to have a few tiendas (small stores) nearby for basic supplies, wine, bread, and produce. A big, modern supermarket wasn’t too far away either.

There are no trails nearby and it was impossible to give Maya the exercise she needed. But the worst part was the number of loose dogs. Most of them are owned, so they are in pretty good shape. Yet, they live on the street, congregate, bark, and can be aggressive, especially when they stick together and become a pack. It was really not fun to take our dog for potty walks and Mark got used to carrying a spray bottle with water and vinegar on daily outings.

Maya got bitten once here and another time in Copacabana near the border with Peru. During this one-year journey so far, we feel the stray/loose dog problem has been the worst in Bolivia.

Valle de las Animas

La Paz is surrounded by and scattered with cool rock formations, which give the city a very unique look and feel. One such grouping of rocks is phenomenal and extensive. This area is called Valle de las Animas and is a tourist attraction. A 45-minute uphill walk from the campground brought us to this valley. The climb was tough and exhausting (this part of La Paz is at 12,000ft or 3,600m), but, again, it was the barking and approaching dogs – hundreds of them – that made this excursion the most unpleasant.

As we arrived at the park, one more shack had to be passed. Two dogs charged at us – or me, being the last one of the pack – growling, hair raised, ready to attack my legs. It was one of the few days we wore shorts! Luckily, Mark noticed the commotion behind him and chased the pair off with the spray bottle. A close call!

The surroundings were pretty and we played with the idea of coming back one day (by taxi) to give Maya some exercise, but that never happened. The walk back home was easy enough, mostly downhill, but we had to be very weary of the dogs, ready to pounce from every corner.

Visiting La Paz

Being in the administrative capital of Bolivia for this long meant we had plenty of time and opportunity to visit the city center. In the beginning, we did this with friends; later just the three of us. Taking a micro bus into town was very cheap at about 30 cents per person. Before we realized one of the routes takes people well into this massive city, we would switch to taxis or the cable car to reach tourist areas.

One place of interest is the extensive cemetery with its colorful murals, interesting customs, and maze of alleys. It is a stop on the Red Line of the cable car system and it is pretty cool to see the colorful, metal cubes whiz over the concrete structures holding the deceased.

Mercado de las Brujas (Witches Market) is another attraction and borders the most touristy street in La Paz. Souvenir stores and travel agencies mingle with age-old tiendas selling llama fetuses and stillborn animals, as well as potions, herbs, and other interesting remedies.

My favorite square in the city is Plaza Metropolitana Murillo, which houses the Government Palace, the Cathedral, and a few other majestic, historical buildings. It is a great place to people watch and take in the changing of the guard, which we happened to catch at 10am one day.

The Cable Car System

By far the highlight of La Paz in our opinion is Mi Teleférico. This city-wide cable car system is a state-of-the-art installation, clean, modern, efficient, comfortable, and cheap. Trips cost 3 or 2 Bolivianos (the equivalent of 40/35 cents US) and there are many, colored lines to pick from.

The tour/loop I recommended to fellow campers was: take the minibus (#359) from Las Lomas Campground to the Green Station, hop on the Green Line all the way to the Yellow one. Take that one to the end – it climbs up a tall hill to El Alto – and switch onto the Silver/Platinum Line. Next, step onto the Red Line and get off in the city center (ideally the cemetery). Walk through the touristy parts of town to see the sites and finish at the Blue Line. You stay on until the end, hop on the Green Line again, and take a cab back to Las Lomas de Achumani from the station where you started. Or, patiently wait on the main road for a minibus back.

Maya was allowed on the cable cars if she wore a muzzle. Since we would be here for a good month, it was worth buying one and teach her to get used to it. The three of us had many a pleasant ride above the skyline of La Paz!

The Holidays

Initially, Mark and I swore to avoid a big city over Christmas and New Year’s. Maya hates fireworks, and spending the holidays in La Paz would be a sure way to make her unhappy. But we had a car issue to deal with (which we managed to fix), our friends were in the city as well, and, compared to Colombia the previous year, the fireworks and firecrackers during December had been manageable. Plus, being in an established campground was a sure way to not repeat that terrible experience of last Christmas in Eastern Colombia.

We enjoyed a mellow evening on Christmas Day with Sheri and Jeff. Since we would be here for a while, we “convinced” our US motorcycle friends Katherine and Brandon to join us at Las Lomas for New Year as well. Instead of a small celebration with six friends – and a dog, New Year’s Eve turned out to be a big party with eighteen people in total, because so many campers had shown up.

Our little group arranged for firewood and charcoal, we used Marcos’ decent-sized grill, and a spontaneous potluck and social evening emerged. People contributed dishes and alcohol, and couples cooked their own meat – or vegetarian – main course. It turned out to be a fun, enjoyable, and tasty evening. And, we all made midnight! Maya wasn’t happy about all the firework displays in the area, but she did well under the circumstances.

Gastronomical Highlights

Since we committed to being in La Paz for a month, we were saving (and earning), and we had NY gift money left, Mark and I splurged on gastronomical delights. Because we could not (ever) afford eating out at the top restaurants in Lima (which houses the #1 and #6 on the The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, namely Central and Maido), we switched our focus to the 100 Best Restaurants of Latin America.

Gustu is the number 23 on that famed list and Ancestral made number 62. Shortly after New Year’s Day, Brandon and Katherine took us out for dinner at Ancestral, where we all ordered the 7-course tasting menu. Each couple split a wine pairing. The food was delicious and experimental, the atmosphere and service cozy and personal, and the company awesome.

We liked this place so much that we returned with Maya (they have covered outdoor seating) for one last dinner a-la-carte.

Mark and I made a reservation for Gustu for the middle of January. We savored out-of-this-world food combinations and creations in the 8-course tasting menu, like raw alligator with toppings from the jungle, beets with fish milk, and chamomile ice cream decorated with flowers. While this was an interesting and special experience, we found the service, despite being professional and efficient (at least six different waiters brought food and explained the dishes), less personal and enjoyed the atmosphere and focus (and prices) of Ancestral better.

Both of these restaurants are excellent, regarding décor and ambiance as well as food quality and service. And, just like our third restaurant choice beneath, they use only Bolivian ingredients for their preparations and concoctions. I will share prices in my next expense report.

And then there is Popular Cocina Boliviana, or Popular in short. This lunch place was high on my list of things to do in La Paz. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed for vacation until January 16^th, something we discovered the hard way. Luckily, we had more time in the city and we returned – with Maya – a second time, well before opening hours, waiting in line.

Our dog was allowed inside and we could pick whichever table we preferred, namely one with extra space to the side. The three-course lunch included homemade bread and a drink. It was a set menu, which changes every week and we could choose between two appetizers, desserts, and beverages, and three main courses, called segundos. I went vegetarian all the way and Mark chose meat options.

It was a delicious feast, for the taste buds as well as for the eyes! If I were to live in La Paz, I’d swing by this popular, attractive, and affordable place once a week. We had hoped to return one more time, but that didn’t happen. Mainly, because it was a time-consuming event to get there from the campground.

Road Blocks

Campground owner Marcos returned from his vacation a bit earlier than planned. Since Mark and I were still in the middle of work assignments and getting ready to hit the road again, we stayed two extra days, planning to leave on Wednesday, January 24^th, destination Sucre. The evening before breaking camp and being ready to travel again, we learned that road blocks prevented passage on most major roads in Bolivia. We couldn’t get to Sucre.

We gave the protesters three more days to abandon their barriers or for the government to interfere. This didn’t happen, so we left La Paz the following weekend on a long day of driving and sourcing difficult-to-obtain gasoline. Near the split of the road Sucre – Uyuni, we boondocked between some ruins and a river. We stayed one extra day there, but our patience was running out and we were ready to explore Bolivia instead of “waiting around.”

So, we skipped beautiful Sucre, the capital of this country and a World Heritage Site. Such is the way of overlanding in South America; obstacles and political problems pop up constantly and unexpectedly…

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir: