This is more of a status update than an exciting blog post…
When we discovered that I couldn’t get a 90-day extension to stay the full six months in Brazil as a Belgian—hoping we’d sell our camper by then—we needed a new plan. The closest border was Paraguay. Having great memories from our previous visit, we decided to make it our South American base for a while, at least until the heat chased us off or a buyer popped up for Bella.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Tacuru Pucu, Hernandarias
After crossing the border in hectic Ciudad del Este on September 11, Mark, Maya, and I returned to the free Tacuru Pucu campground, managed by the Itaipu Dam organization. Just like five months earlier, we stayed the allowed 14 days, but the grounds and facilities had deteriorated further.
Some of the electricity and water hookups were broken, the WiFi worked intermittently, and none of the hot showers functioned anymore. Most days, it was hot enough to shower with cold water anyway—or we could use our own shower and refill the tank with potable water. Maya was only allowed in a restricted area, so long walks were out of the question.
Despite the bugs and the heat, we enjoyed a much-needed break. Our favorite amenity remained the covered palapa, where we could do hand laundry, eat at the picnic table, chat with new and familiar faces (including Larry, who stopped by briefly), and swing in our hammock. I even started reading a book again!
Those two weeks filled up fast with cleaning nearly everything in and on the camper, cooking delicious meals, writing, catching up on Brazil blog posts, and setting up a new computer after more files got corrupted on my ancient laptop. Now, I’m getting used to two new-to-me devices.
I also gave my published book some long-overdue attention and started experimenting with a virtual audiobook. After a few chapters, I abandoned the idea—Amazon’s beta version wasn’t ready for prime time. Meanwhile, Mark repaired our water pump after an entertaining ride to the free zone with a Colombian, a Cuban, and a Paraguayan.
Nights were restless. Each blistering, humid day seemed to culminate in a violent storm, leaving us with a couple of chilly mornings before the heat built again. Maya was terrified of the thunder and lightning, and fireworks or gunfire from a nearby military base didn’t help either.
Mark was sick for a few days as well; a bummer. When it was too hot to do anything but sit in the shade of our palapa, we fantasized and talked about the next chapter in our lives, after our camper sells.
Ñacunday Falls
On our way to Hohenau to revisit Manantial Campground, we stopped for a night at Ñacunday Falls. Reaching the campsite deep in the jungle required trimming branches, brushing past foliage, and careful maneuvering to get level, but the peace was worth it.
The waterfalls were impressive, though the infrastructure lacked proper viewpoints or hiking trails. It was a decent detour, but we enjoyed the drive through farmlands.
Manantial Campground, Hohenau
After another day of driving and errands, we arrived in Hohenau for what we hoped would be a peaceful and restorative stay—until “something happened” to get us moving again. As usual, comfort and ease aren’t words in our lifestyle dictionary.
Our main reasons for returning to Paraguay—and Hohenau in particular—were to find tranquility and good food. Many residents here are of German descent, which means delicious breads, pastries, cured meats, and cheese. To say we indulged is an understatement.
Peace, however, was harder to come by. The relentless biting gnats required DEET twice a day, and I’d still end up with a dozen bites. As summer approached, weddings filled every weekend. The only level spots were near the event hall, and we could not remain there when that area was rented. Since we had removed the camper for maintenance, cleaning, and side-trips with just the truck, it caused extra work each time we had to move for a party. One celebration even ran from 6 pm to 6 am—most of us left the campground altogether just to get some sleep.
At times, the heat was unbearable. For the first time in three years of overland travel through South America, we wished we had air conditioning. The stifling weather and biting insects tested our patience. My migraines flared almost daily, and the storm cycles brought more sleepless nights.
Still, there were bright spots: a pool to cool off (though Maya wasn’t allowed in that area, limiting our visits), nice morning or evening hikes across the vast property, fresh bread and pastry deliveries, laundry service, and a lively, international camping community.
I finally had time to test my “new” SLR digital camera and had fun photographing animals and flowers on the property of the campground.
We reunited with Larry, met a Belgian couple relocating to Paraguay, and were thrilled when our friends Heather and Jon from VermonsterRV detoured on their way to Uruguay to spend ten days with us. Unfortunately, I came down with what felt like Covid, the flu, or a severe sinus infection, which kept me out of most social activities—and away from their blissfully air-conditioned cabin. They’re now preparing to ship their rig to Europe, and we hope to reconnect there next year. It took two weeks for me to feel 100% again.
Despite the challenges, our time together was wonderful. We celebrated Jon’s birthday with sushi in Encarnación, shared many happy hours, walked to a pizzeria-microbrewery nearby (twice), and crossed items off our to-do list.
We also took a day trip to Bella Vista and Puerto Obligado with Heather and Jon.
After three weeks at Manantial—still one of the best campgrounds on the continent despite its quirks—a reason to move on had arrived. We left Paraguay even more exhausted than when we arrived.
But not before enjoying one last sushi meal in Encarnación.
Next up: Our monthly expense report for October 2025
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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October 31, 2025 at 19:35
Sounds like a pretty challenging time, given your illnesses, heat, and the gnats. How is having an all-night party even allowed?
I hope you have luck selling your camper. It only takes one interested party. Anyone nibbling yet? Of course, I’m curious about what the next chapter in your lives will be, but I’m sure you’ll tell us when you’re ready.
November 1, 2025 at 10:27
Hi Pete,
We feel that the owners of this giant property are doing campers a favor by letting them stay in the grassy yard/field that only has a few level spots. There are some water spigots and some electrical outlets and the fee is very reasonable. Campers are not their main income source by a long stretch. They sell day passes for the pool and game area, do tours on their property with a big safari-like truck, have a restaurant, and rent a hall for events (which we assume pays them the big money). Among other things. So, when there is a wedding planned on a Sunday or Saturday, it takes precedence. It used to bother us, but makes sense when you think about it. Luckily, the all-night wedding party only happened once.
We have interest in our camper at the moment, but I don’t want to jinx anything. Honestly, we have no idea yet about that next chapter. We have a few options to bridge the next four or five months to avoid the European/American winter.
October 31, 2025 at 21:26
Liesbet, Happy to read that the three of you returned to Paraguay, one of the least visited countries on the continent. We loved our time there! Glad you were able to relax after such a tough schedule you’ve led for so long. I hope you get a nibble from someone wanting to buy Bella soon.
November 1, 2025 at 10:28
Hi Annie,
Selling the camper is our priority right now. Thanks for the wishes. It’s one of the reasons we have returned to Chile, because many travelers start their overland adventures in Santiago. Fingers crossed!
November 1, 2025 at 09:43
I’m glad you are picking out the good times in the “now,” before the next chapter in your lives begins, after your camper sells. I love the photo of you and Maya in the hammock, a good one to use as the featured image.
About Paraguay, Mennonites migrated to that country, which would explain some of the German dishes available even now. Best wishes on selling Bella! 😀
November 1, 2025 at 10:31
Thanks for the wishes! You might be right about the origin of those German dishes, Marian. There are indeed groups of Mennonites who live in Paraguay and have lived here for a long time. But most are located in the Chaco Desert towards the north of the country. Hohenau in the south has attracted Germans and other Europeans more recently, because of the the peace and low cost of living. I’m happy about that! 🙂
November 1, 2025 at 15:40
No AC? I couldn’t take that kind of heat. I’d never sleep.
Anyone interested in Bella yet?
November 8, 2025 at 20:06
Hi Alex,
We purposefully didn’t want AC in this camper because you don’t need it in most of South America. Except in Paraguay. To be honest, even if the camper had AC, our 110-volt truck wouldn’t have been able to plug into the 220-volt electricity system of Paraguay.
Yes, we’ve had some interest in Bella. 🙂
November 1, 2025 at 16:58
Your bird photos are great! Love rhea and owl. Hope the camper is off your hands soon.
November 8, 2025 at 20:07
Hi Anabel,
Owls are probably my favorite birds. Not sure why, but I somehow feel a connections to them.
Thanks for the wishes about Bella. We are all ready for a little change for a little while. 🙂
November 1, 2025 at 17:06
It is so interesting that there is a German(ish) community in Paraguay. Marian’s explanation of the origin makes sense. Sorry about the gnats… they would have loved me too. Yikes!
November 8, 2025 at 20:12
Hi Janis,
There is not one insect that doesn’t love me. Usually, DEET does the trick (which I hate), but these gnats are stubborn and insistent!
Paraguay (and Argentina) was a popular place for Germans to settle after WWII. More recently, it’s still popular for new generations of Germans (and other Europeans) to become expats here. Maybe because there already was an integrated community.
November 1, 2025 at 23:43
I’m exhausted just reading about all your trials and tribulations. Even though you’re still finding spectacular scenery and good adventures, you must be REALLY looking forward to the next chapter of your life. Have you had any potential buyers for the camper yet?
November 9, 2025 at 09:40
Hi Diane,
Yes, we’ve had interest in our camper. But we have no idea yet what the next chapter will be. Something a bit more comfortable and settled for a few months before the next adventure, I think. Not sure when and where, though. 🙂
November 2, 2025 at 11:07
So nice to meet up with so many friends and to make new ones. So much good food!
It took me a couple of weeks to feel 100% when I got sick in Paraguay, too. So annoying when you are basically over being sick but still don’t feel completely well.
It’s too bad about the state of the Tacuru Pucu Campground. But at least it was free, and you had the palapa. It looks like Maya is enjoying the hammock!
I’m glad you are enjoying your new camera. Your photos are great. The owl is fantastic. And what a great shot of the goats!
November 9, 2025 at 09:44
Hi Duwan,
Our time in Paraguay was as social as it gets. That country seems to draw friendships and time spent together, I guess. 🙂
I wonder if you had a similar “bug” than me when in Paraguay. I’m still not sure what I suffered from, but it sure took a while to snap out of it. And it’s even more annoying when there are precious friends around.
It was nice to finally enjoy the camera and the hammock, last month. Everything is stored again now. So few places warrant the use of them down here.
November 5, 2025 at 16:15
Wow, I give you guys credit. It feels like you’re eternally camping with elements, heat and gnats, and being sick on top of. I cannot live without aircon in the heat, so huge brownie points for you! When you sell Thirsty Bella, what’s the plan for next episodes? 🧡
November 9, 2025 at 09:48
Hi Debby,
One of the nice things about South America is that it rarely gets that hot and humid, unlike Central America. And when it does, you usually suffer for a couple of days and head into the mountains next. Except in Paraguay – no mountains! 🙂
So, in general, we don’t need airco in our camper down here, which is why we never installed one. Our next camper will more than likely have AC, especially if Africa is on the agenda.
Yet, we have no idea what the next chapter will be. The three of us are ready for a break from the road for a few months, or as long as we need to come up with the next means of travel. Thing is that it will be winter in Belgium and the US soon, so returning there is not too appealing. As always: we don’t have a plan. Yet. 🙂
November 7, 2025 at 06:43
Great to see some pictures from the new camera, Liesbet. Looks like you are enjoying using the new camera. I love the photos of the goats.
But that heat would kill me. I wouldn’t be able to sleep. What a shame you could not extend your 90-day visa. Good to see you relaxing and treating yourselves to all that fantastic cuisine.
Sorry to hear you were ill. I’ve had had flu and covid shots as I’m hearing lots of news that it’s going to be a very fad flu season in Europe this winter. Apparently, it’s started 5 weeks earlier than last year.
November 9, 2025 at 09:52
Hi Hugh,
The goats looked like they shared a podium of #1, #2, and #3. For gymnastics at the Olympics! 🙂
I’m still bummed that we couldn’t stay longer in Brazil, so that’s a country where I want to return to by plane, one day. But it did allow us to drive back to Paraguay, take it easy for a bit, and splurge on good food and company!
That’s bad news about the dreadful flu season in Europe. I’m glad you’ve got your shots and I keep my fingers crossed that you won’t get sick, this winter. It’s not a season we like… But at least, you won’t be hot and sweaty.