Leaving Chile
It was a bit tricky, but Mark and I managed to get a vet check-up and international dog permit for Maya in Futaleufú over the span of three hours and for a total cost of $28. Unfortunately, unlike her other permits, this one was only valid for 30 instead of 60 days. It would keep us moving!
The same afternoon, we left the country and crossed into Argentina on washboard roads, aiming for six things in one week: sunnier weather on the other side of the Andes Mountains, better roads, cheaper fuel, no ferry schedules/costs that were mandatory on the Carretera Austral, an affordable laundromat, and a full propane tank. After accomplishing those goals, we’d return to Chile for about three weeks.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
In Esquel, our first town in Argentina, we failed dropping off our laundry and it took multiple attempts to find a decent camping spot. We did manage to fill our fuel and water tanks for almost half the price than in Chile!
The next stop was Rio Azul, where we planned to take a mini-break from the road for a few days and sit out bad weather. We did have to move once, because it rained so much that the river rose rapidly and we worried about being flooded.
Bariloche, Argentina
The idea was to – urgently – fill our propane tank at a depot on the way north to Bariloche. We were now on paved roads, the sun had returned, and progress was smooth. We had confirmed this depot was open on a Saturday morning, but when we arrived, desperate for gas to cook, shower, and heat Bella, the people capable of filling international tanks didn’t work during the weekend. The facility was only open to swap Argentinian tanks… Right.
We rushed towards Bariloche, the biggest town on our Argentinian route, to check three more potential propane gas providers before lunchtime and weekend closures. We hate cities, so it was never the plan to drive our large camper through congested Bariloche, but here we were. When we eventually found a hardware store that gravity-filled tanks, the prices had doubled since a few months ago! In Ushuaia, the middle of nowhere, we’d paid less than $20 for a full tank. Here, in the Argentinian Lake District, the cost was $50 for the same privilege! We bought four kilos – about half a tank – to last another month before we’d return to this country. We had to be careful again!
Lago Nahuel Huapi, seen from Bariloche
Bariloche has a bad reputation for car break-ins and robberies. Because of those warnings and our aversion of cities, we only stayed for lunch. It was windy, so we ate our sandwiches inside Thirsty Bella.
Villa La Angostura
Villa La Angostura was our main destination in Argentina, this time around. It is located close to the Chilean border. We spent three nights in town, at different locations. Our first night of free camping took place at a parking lot near a river trail and lake. The place was packed, so we postponed our explorations until the next morning.
Later that day, we got stuck in narrow alleys, trying to reach a trail in the woods, only accessible via bumpy roads and a paid parking lot. We almost bailed, but eventually succeeded in finding this place. We made and packed our lunches and set out for a strenuous hike to a viewpoint and a barely visible waterfall. Maybe we should have bailed as this was a lot of effort for little to no rewards. I guess we all had an afternoon of exercise!
That evening, we parked by a pretty lake and the shortest river in Argentina. The colors of this river were gorgeous. The area was extremely busy with cars and families, but it quietened down that Sunday evening. Cars did drive by throughout the night, though, so we moved again the following morning.
On our last day in Villa La Angostura – a weekday – we dropped off our biggest pieces of laundry at a professional yet affordable laundromat on the outskirts of town, worked, and ran errands. We found an amazing bakery across the street, so we bought sourdough breads full of grains to last a few days.
That evening, an Argentinian van squeezed in between us and the next car, making it almost impossible to enter and exit our home, as our door pretty much touched their van. There was little room between it and our steps. And, there was plenty of space elsewhere in this parking lot. This behavior annoys us, but, since this is apparently our problem, we moved before darkness set in.
Coñaripe, Chile
Our idea was to spend a couple of weeks in the attractive-sounding lake region of Chile, because we needed a break from the pace, challenges, and discomfort of being on the road almost every day. Mark and I even looked into renting an Airbnb for a week to breathe – and do more laundry – but the price was high for what you’d get. Our camper looked more comfortable than some of these cabins!
By the time we crossed the border, our fridge was empty and our fresh produce was eaten. That’s the law when entering Chile – no fresh goods can be imported. So, our first stop in the decent-sized town of Osorno was a happy one. We found amazing produce and foodstuffs and loaded up. Since this was to be our last Chilean city, we stocked up on some specialty items as well – for us and Maya.
Then, we arrived at our first beach of choice, the red volcanic gravel along Lago Calafquén in Coñaripe. It was tricky to get into this area and Mark had to cut some bushes and trees for our wide vehicle to enter. Once we were settled, however, this spot worked out perfectly. While we didn’t expect this to become a major stop, we ended up staying here longer than anywhere else in over a year (eight nights) and watching other overlanders come and go.
The Lake Region in Chile is heavily developed and there aren’t a lot of options for free camping. What made this place special was that we managed to get settled on the “front row” (all the areas around us consisted of loose sand and gravel others could get stuck on), the lake had a pleasant temperature, it was finally warm weather, and town, with its incredible produce stores, was within walking distance! We also found blackberries for our Sunday pancake breakfast.
This was the site where we tried to perform all our “Airbnb tasks.” We aired out the camper and everything it contained, we got rid of the mold, we did a spring – or better, autumn – cleaning, and we handwashed, rinsed, and dried clothes every single day in the warmish lake water. Mark found a stick long and pointy enough to bury in the rocks for a clothes line.
We made new friends as well, a German couple that we got along with very well. The four of us shared happy hours and one exquisite dinner. Unexpectedly, this place provided us with wonderful moments and memories and we also caught up on work and other computer chores.
Villarrica
On the day we left Coñaripe, we stopped in the city of Villarrica for some shopping and errands. We even enjoyed a walk with Maya along the waterfront on this sunny, warm day.
Villarrica Volcano
We decided to postpone a visit to Pucon, except to fill up with potable water and gasoline, and camped on a large, free parking lot with a wonderful view of the volcano. Unfortunately, by morning, Volcan Villarrica had disappeared into the mist, rain, and clouds.
Parking in Pucon didn’t work out and it was raining, so we skipped this tourist destination all together and moved on to our next lake. It was the weekend again.
Caburgua
A small detour to the village of Caburgua and its namesake lake brought mixed feelings. We had a nice view of the lake and Maya loved running on the extensive, sandy beach, but it was windy, dusty, and dirty, so we only stayed two nights. We witnessed a ceremony by a group of indigenous Mapuche Indians, but never figured out what it was for.
Northern Caburgua Lake
Our very last destination in Chile was the north side of Lago Caburgua, basically “the other side” of where we’d previously camped. Yet, this trek brought us back to Pucon, through Villarrica, and over some pavement but mostly really bad roads for five hours. Just the last stretch of 20 miles took two hours! And it was insanely windy, creating extra road obstructions. At the end, paradise awaited…
Remote and little visited, the grassy meadows were frequented by cows and the occasional human. We loved our first camping spot with lake and river view, but, unfortunately, the wind picked up insanely, so we had to move. The camper shook so much – even with our nose into the wind – that we couldn’t sleep and Maya was super anxious.
So, we spent our last three nights among the blackberry bushes, a bit better protected, and still alongside the creek and grassy patches. We worked, rested, and walked. One day, it was warm enough to give Maya (and myself) a bath in the icy river.
When more wind and rain – and snow in the mountains and therefore the pass of our next border post – were predicted, we left the area prematurely to avoid getting stuck. At our camping spot. And in Chile. Maya’s paperwork was only valid for a few more days, so we returned to Argentina one more time.
I’ll leave you with a “bonus” video of our blackberry-loving dog, Maya! 😊
Next up: Coming full circle in Mendoza, Argentina
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
Discover more from Roaming About
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
April 21, 2025 at 10:34
Love seeing Maya in action. And your food–lovely eating!
April 24, 2025 at 19:36
Hi Jacqui,
I’m pretty sure Maya has a good life. Despite her anxieties and ambition to get in trouble! 🙂
April 21, 2025 at 14:17
Hooray, finally some beautiful, peaceful, and safe camping spots! You must have been so relieved to finally get a bit of a break. And thanks for the video of Maya – she’s so cute! 🙂
April 24, 2025 at 19:39
Hi Diane,
I lucked out with the video of Maya. This was the second time I watched her “pick a blackberry” and I was fast enough to film it, this time.
Yes, we enjoyed the slower pace and shorter driving distances of the Lakes District, especially in Chile. We did like that country and barely touched the surface. Now, ever since we returned to Argentina, it’s back to sleepless nights and frustrating moments… 🙁
April 25, 2025 at 14:22
Oh no. That sucks!
April 29, 2025 at 07:19
Oh, but think about all the stories and the adventures that are being racked up, haha. That’s what some people would comment – it’s all part of the adventure, no matter how many sleepless nights or how many piles of trash we encounter. 🙂 Mark and I are starting to think that we are staying too long in some of these underdeveloped countries, which get exhausting.
April 22, 2025 at 00:51
That bonus video is priceless. Maya is a true star!
I absolutely following the adventures of the three of you.
April 24, 2025 at 19:41
Haha, Donna. I’m glad you liked Maya the blackberry-picking dog! And our adventures keep going… 🙂
April 23, 2025 at 11:55
The story that happened in Villa La Angostura where the van parked right next to you even though they had lots of other choices, reminds us of an experience we had in Texas. We were tired of driving, so we found a huge dirt lot behind a gas station, right off the road. It was big enough to handle 50 or more 18-wheel trucks. There were two large trucks parked a various places on the lot, so we parked way in the back, in a corner, away from the other two trucks and in a place where it would not interfere with any trucks coming later in the evening. We have learned to respect truckers. Late that night we were wakened by a loud rumbling sound. We peeked out the window and a gigantic truck was pulling next to us, about 4 feet away from our trailer. He left his truck running all night, we assume to keep the refrigeration system onboard staying cold. We were too tired to move. When we woke up the next morning, he was still there and when I stepped outside to walk Pico de Gallo, he and us were the only ones inn the entire parking lot. The guy obviously was “teaching us a lesson” that THIS lot is for truckers only. What an experience. Glad to hear Lago Calafquén in Coñaripe was a place you enjoyed and was able to stay 8 days. LOVED the video of Maya eating blackberries. Jim
April 24, 2025 at 19:47
Hi Jim,
Thanks for sharing that crazy trucker story in Texas!
We can’t count the times when something similar happened to us anymore. At night and during the day. Not necessarily with truckers, but usually with cars playing loud music or screaming and laughing youth. And they ALWAYS have to park next to us. Always. Our camper draws commotion and seems to ask to be surrounded by anyone who possible is in the area. This is what happens in Latin America. Whether it’s other campers or local vehicles, we attract them like light does to bugs…
I think we’ve only stayed twice longer than a week anywhere in the last 2.5 years on this continent – intentionally and for no urgent reasons – that lake in Chile and a very cute town in Colombia. Maya loves blackberries! 🙂
April 26, 2025 at 17:51
Despite some weather challenges, it looks like you found a couple of nice places to stop. It’s so nice to meet new friends along the way. Such a cute picture of Maya in the heart.
April 29, 2025 at 07:20
Chile seems to treat us well, Janis. In general, we really like that country. Despite the weather and cost. It’s quieter and cleaner than Argentina. 🙂
April 27, 2025 at 07:06
It’s great to see some pictures of Maya making friends with local dogs given that in a lot of places some of the local dogs have be nasty. I bet she enjoyed all the socialising.
Isn’t it crazy that some drivers park so close to your vehicle that you can not open doors to get back into your vehicle? Here in the UK, I see it happening a lot, but many blame the parking spaces being too small as cars have got larger.
Glad Maya and you guys are enjoying the blackberries and that there are a lot of them in the wild for free picking. Blackberry picking is a pleasant childhood memory I have – one that used to pay, too.
So is this your last stops in Chile and Argentina?
April 29, 2025 at 08:57
Hi Hugh,
Maya is not really a social dog. She “tolerates” humans and other dogs or is indifferent to them. All she cares about is food/eating everything, and Mark. 🙂
The whole camping close to each other thing reminds us of when we were anchoring on our sailboat in wide open bays. For some reason, certain cultures (and, yes, I am generalizing and stereotyping here based on experience) like to crowd others. Whether it is to feel safer, because they think it’s the best area, or out of ignorance, it’s just what they do and feel comfortable with. Boggles our mind…
I have pleasant blackberry picking memories from Belgium as well. We went picking in the season, though. When we were in Chile, most bushes only had bright red and unripe berries, so we had to hunt hard and long to collect a small bowl for blackberry pancakes. I guess we could have stuck around until the height of picking season, but we’d freeze our pants off by then! 🙂
Yes, last stop in Chile was the Lake District (unless something unexpected happens in the future) and at the moment, we are crossing Argentina from west to (north)east again, one last time. We are ready for new countries, cultures, and experiences! And cheaper living conditions.
April 27, 2025 at 20:19
Hi Liesbet, Some beautiful scenery and clear blue sky days you’ve got there. I visited Bariloche and Villa La Angostura so this post brought back memories. Great video of Maya picking and eating blackberries. Wishing you safe travels and calm nights ahead.
April 29, 2025 at 08:58
Thanks for the lovely and meaningful wishes, Natalie. Sleep doesn’t come easy back in Argentina, but other than that, we are doing alright. Just like this post brings back memories for you, your recent one of Kinderdijk in the Netherlands will for me. Have a great weekend ahead!
April 28, 2025 at 22:34
Looks like some beautiful pics and good food. I’m definitely with you about the rude person who parked so close to you when there was so much other room. That’s just rude. 💜
April 29, 2025 at 09:19
Hi Debby,
If there’s one thing we don’t skimp on, it’s healthy food. Luckily, the cost for produce remains manageable. I love Mark’s cooking and am happy he usually feels up for the challenge. 🙂
The thing with Argentinians parking on top of us (and, in the past, French sailors anchoring close to us) is that they most likely don’t realize it bothers us. They don’t see anything wrong with it. They are “family” and “group” people, social and close, and don’t realize we, as Westerners, prefer some privacy and space. It’s interesting.
That night, after we were the ones moving again, I said to Mark that I should step up and ask them to move when they first arrive and explain to them how it bothers us. But, you know, who likes confrontations? Since then, I have spoke out about similar behavior, though. It doesn’t feel great, but whoever gets somewhere first should have some say in being crowded. And my Spanish is up for the task.
April 29, 2025 at 11:16
I get it. Nobody really likes confrontations except bullies. But how about common sense. Even when I park my car, I make sure there is plenty of room for me to get in and someone else not to hit my car door when they get in. 🙂
April 30, 2025 at 14:11
Here’s the thing about common sense, Debby… it’s extinct. Unfortunately. I keep telling Mark that common sense is not common anymore. Whether it’s in developing nations or in our western homelands. It’s like the entire world has turned stupid and selfish.
May 1, 2025 at 11:00
You said it my friend!!!!
May 1, 2025 at 12:49
🙂
May 12, 2025 at 14:22
Finally caught up, I think. Our bus broke down (before we boarded). So we are waiting in the bus station for 3 1/2 hours for the next bus. Ugh!
Our new van won’t have propane. What a pain. I remember you having to buy a new tank just before you left the US. Propane seems like a lot of trouble.
I love the monkey puzzle trees. And your extended stay by the lake looks nice.
And I need that sourdough bread! I’m going look for a bakery in Barranco on Google Maps right now.
May 12, 2025 at 15:59
Oh no about your bus, Duwan. Not again! My cousin and her husband had one break down on them while on the long journey from Lima to Cusco and they got stuck outside in the heat for hours. Darn Peru!
Good decision about not having propane in your next van. We will really try to avoid it in our future camper as well.
Heather and Jon are building out their second camper at this moment (they’re back in the US for the summer) and the only reason they still put propane systems in them is their desire for an oven. We will find a way around that… Propane has been a huge problem for us. The biggest one, actually, now that the internet issue has been solved with Starlink.
We’ve read about a German bakery in Paraguay near some of the missions. We will certainly have to check it out!!