Warning: This is a long post, heavy on photographs.
Mark, Maya, and I entered Uruguay from Argentina without expectations. We knew the coast drew lots of people, Montevideo was the capital, and Colonia del Sacramento was a highlight and UNESCO World Heritage Site. And that the country was super expensive, aptly called the Switzerland of South America.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Uruguay in South America
The country of Uruguay and our sights
Uruguayan flag
Uruguayan license plate
Dealing with the border formalities was a bit confusing (everyone from either side wanted to inspect our camper) but didn’t take too long. We were a tad nervous regarding the “prohibited items” we brought to sustain ourselves and our dog (check the blue sign and guess what we carried), but Maya’s paperwork was in order, which proved important – and distracting – enough.
Walking to the border offices to deal with all the paperwork
Ready for a new country in Thirsty Bella
How many of these items did we have in our camper?
Salto Grande Dam
Right across the border, on the outskirts of Salto, we stopped by the Salto Grande dam, operated by both countries. There, Mark and I partook in a free tour, conducted in Spanish.
The massive turbines
Viewpoint over the dam
Salto Grande Dam, seen from Argentina
One of the massive doors that regulate the water flow
Driving back from Argentina to Uruguay on the tour bus – we did this two hours earlier in our camper; the dam is the border crossing in Salto.
Afterwards, mid-afternoon, we decided to put some miles behind our wheels, since we hoped to cross the entire country and reach the coast within a few days. In Uruguay, we planned our route and stops more carefully, due to the costs. When gasoline has a price tag of $7 a gallon (about $2 per liter), you think twice about detours and their “worth.”
Our first camping spot for the night was a bit overgrown, but hidden from the road!
Our second night was spent in a free campground that was flooded.
Our third free camping spot necessitated driving under this low bridge; we just fit!
The end of this turnaround point was the only spot with open sky and sunshine, needed for Starlink, solar power, and an anxious dog.
We stopped at a small clearing in the bushes, out of view, for that first night. The next three days, we leisurely traversed the hinterland of Uruguay, gazing at the well-kept homes and fields and feeling happy for the livestock – mostly horses, cows, and sheep – with all that juicy, bright-green grass everywhere!
Happy cows in Uruguay
Lush and pretty fields
We also came across a dinosaur display, with preserved footprints and information signs.
Signs with info in Spanish
Dinosaur track on display
Old footprints!
The people we met along the way were friendly, we enjoyed this peek into lesser-known territory, and we happily noticed the lack of garbage everywhere, but we were surprised at the state of the throughways.
Filled potholes; one can wonder if it’s better or worse to hit these piles of fresh asphalt.
One of the gravel roads
Maya doesn’t like dirt roads and holds on for dear life.
Broken road surfaces
We would not fit on this bridge with our camper.
Old car from a local driver
Thinking that Uruguay was a relatively developed nation with a relatively western mentality, we had counted on beautifully paved main roads everywhere. Not in the back country. For at least 100 of the 400 miles across, we dealt with broken pavement, potholes, road work, or dirt tracks going east-west. The north-south equivalents seemed in better shape.
La Coronilla
The Atlantic coast brought pleasant surprises. First, we arrived at La Coronilla at the exact same time a familiar-looking kombi VW bus did. Mark recognized them as the Kombi Chronicles, a British couple with two cats, who had been exploring Latin America overland for a few years. We knew Willow and Lee through Facebook, WhatsApp groups, and mutual friends. It was great to finally meet! (They have a popular YouTube channel and Facebook page as well.)
Meeting Willow and Lee of the Kombi Chronicles for the first time
The VW bus of our Kombi Chronicles friends, parked on the bluff
Sunday afternoon with our new friends
After an introductory chat, they decided to stay another day, a Sunday, on which we hung out all afternoon and evening, chatting, exchanging stories, and sharing popcorn and wine. It’s always nice to meet like-minded folks and we hope to run into them again soon, on the way to – or in – Patagonia.
Our camping spot in La Coronilla; away from the parking area
Maya is much happier on the bed than in the car, these days.
Our boondocking spot offered an “exotic” setting under palm trees, long walks on the beach, a decent view, and the sound of waves when falling asleep. It was quiet at night, so all three of us could rest up.
First beach walk with Maya in a long time!
One of many dead penguins along the Atlantic beaches
Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits.Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.
After we returned to Thirsty Bella in Argentina, Mark, Maya, and I needed about three weeks to find our travel groove, get readjusted to the lifestyle, prep for new adventures, and see friends before new horizons lured. The first week of October, we headed north in Argentina and on October 9th, we crossed into Uruguay, a new-to-us country. We stayed through Halloween.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
The equivalent of $100 in Argentinian pesos
Welcome to Uruguay
The equivalent of $100 in Uruguayan pesos
Despite Uruguay being a very expensive nation – even by western norms – our monthly budget stayed below average. Why? Mark and I were super careful spending money, stocked up in Argentina, drove slower than usual, deliberated detours, and focused on free camping and what we really wanted to see.
Waiting for the traffic to pass…
Nice pavement in the beginning
Dirt road back to the main road
Disappearing pavement
Over 100 miles of dirt roads, crossing the country
Driving on bad roads – Maya is stressed
More traffic in the hinterland of Uruguay
Building new roads
The car category was the highest, as usual. Over half of our total! With fuel costing $7 a gallon/$1.80 a liter in Uruguay (diesel is 40% cheaper), it is no surprise that we spent around $560 on gasoline, despite topping up in Argentina (at $4/gallon) and filling our 5-gallon jerrycan before crossing the border. I wonder if this has been an all-time monthly record. We complained about expensive fuel in Peru – where we drove around for five months – at $5 a gallon!
Filling up with gasoline in Argentina
Topping up the fuel tank – and our jerrycan – as well
Main fuel company in Uruguay
Buying expensive gasoline
Dollar rate at the gas station
More fuel is needed
The other car cost went to toll roads, which were pricy in Uruguay as well. We joked that we had to pay $4 an hour on the highways. There are five “automatic” toll stations; an ordeal for foreigners.
The toll rates are the same at each of the five booths. We hit them all!
Toll station near Montevideo
One of the toll stations
The gate finally opens; you don’t want to arrive behind us!
You’re supposed to register your license plate and car (which we did), put credit on your account (we had no idea how many tolls we’d need, so skipped this) or pay at an office (which we did each time), and a camera would read your registered plate, take the correct credit off your account, and open the gate.
That last step NEVER worked. Now that we know how many tolls there are along the highways in Uruguay and that the cost is the same at each one, we would put that amount on the account and only be annoyed once at each booth, when the gate remains closed and some manual action somewhere happens.
Time for dinner!
Camped by the river of Gualeguaychu
Many dinners in Bella (Photo courtesy of Brandon Lever)
Our grocery expense was on the high side, due to needing a lot still after coming home to an empty camper, cooking every meal at home, and preparing a handful of dinners for friends. Monthly rates for our satellite internet subscription have gone up. We now pay $80, half of which is fronted by our business.
Baking brownies
Stocking up at the grocery store of Concordia, Argentina, before crossing the border into Uruguay
Stir fry with egg noodles
Yummy chili!
Juicy, tasty, and affordable strawberries. They must grow these in Uruguay.
When the wind mellows out, we can grill.
Strawberry-banana milkshake (no ice cream), a wonderful treat!
We also opted to top up our propane tank before crossing the border – due to higher costs for everything in the neighboring country – but are not sure now this was the best plan of action. It seems that no matter where and when we add a few kilos of gas to our tank in Argentina, we end up paying for a full tank, just for the privilege, setting us back $15. Drinking water was free everywhere.
The hardware store that couldn’t fill our propane tank (after we waited an hour for it)
After a big detour and more waiting, we got our propane tank topped off here.
Filling with drinking water in Punta del Diablo
After the hassle and vet costs traveling back and forth to the US and Belgium with Maya, we weren’t done yet. Before entering Uruguay, she needed a new health certificate, export permit, and negative blood test for Leishmaniasis. We had all that done in the Argentinian town of Gualeguaychu, over one vet visit (when Maya got attacked again) and two SENASA (agriculture department) stops. We also got some of her shots updated at the vet, adding that bill up to $53. Being patient regarding the export permit meant that part only cost $2 (processing time of 72 hours) instead of the expedited, one-day fee of $30.
Vet visit for paperwork
Blood test for Maya
We are back in wine country! Despite everything else in Argentina steeply going up in price, wine seems to have been spared. We also bought two bottles of discounted rum to last in Uruguay. We never went out for drinks.
The laundromat (out of three) I picked
It costs $7 to have this small pile of laundry washed, dried, and folded.
Another one of our three website domains was due last month ($22) and we couldn’t avoid laundry in Uruguay. In Colonia del Sacramento, I inquired at three laundromats. The price was the same everywhere: $7.50 for a tiny load of 2-3kg. Yikes! We had a lot of dirty stuff. The solution: drop off the most difficult items to hand wash (sheets, towels, jeans, and shorts) and wash everything else (about three big loads) by hand. The price was high for the convenience, but the savings were even higher!
Hours of hand laundry
First batch of hand laundry at the coast
All our clothes are washed and pegged!
Here is the truth about our dining out experiences: Mark and I had not gone out to dinner, just the two of us, since April of this year. Before we left for the summer, restaurant prices kept going up in Argentina, so we stuck to a few take-out meals. In Belgium and Massachusetts, it just didn’t happen. Back in Argentina, we didn’t have time, plus, many restaurants don’t open until 8pm. And in Uruguay, it was too expensive. We do have a couple of donation amounts left, which we look forward to splurging with soon.
Cozy atmosphere, but too cold to eat outside
Burgers and fries
I ordered a fish burger and a cocktail and Mark chose a vegetable burger and a beer.
All that being said, I did treat Mark to one dinner in Punta del Diablo, Uruguay, because the photos on Google looked super appealing for a place called Cardamomo and I had some money set aside from Belgium still (the last funds). Maya was welcome and, while pricy, the food and drinks were tasty and the atmosphere delightful.
Fish & chips in Bella
Our new, plastic spoon
The $5 we did use from our account went to a portion of fries from a food stand to complement a homecooked fried fish dinner. And, we needed a new plastic ladle/spoon as the old one was shedding and were surprised by its affordability ($2) in a Uruguayan grocery store.
Salto Grande Dam
Free bus tour of the dam
Castillo de Piria
One saving grace in Uruguay were its inexpensive – or free – attractions. More about that in my upcoming post. I climbed two lighthouses for stunning views, which only cost me $1 each time. Mark was not interested. And, both of us visited the impressive and well-kept Santa Teresa Fort near Punta del Diablo. All this for the equivalent of $4! A dam tour and Piria Castle were free to enjoy.
Faro de San Ignacio
View from the top of the lighthouse
Lighthouse of Colonia
View from the top of the lighthouse
One of the five corners of the fort
Good parking job, Mark!
Santa Teresa Fort
Entrance fee to the fort: $1.25 a person
Last but not least, one of the most appealing things about that smallish country is its plethora of free, attractive camping spots, especially along the coast!
Our camping spot in Punta del Diablo
Quick stop for the night
Free, basic campground along the way
Arrival at the coast
We stayed here for one night.
Camped at La Paloma
Camped near the capital for one night
Our first camping spot in Colonia del Sacramento
Second, free camping spot in Colonia
An amazing free campground in the middle of Uruguay
Camping spot for the last nights at Ismael Cortinas
We also camped for free in Argentina; our friend Brandon paid for the three nights at Punta Viracho.
Visitors in Gualeguaychu
A couple of nights at windy and cloudy peninsula Soler
Free hot water in the park
Arriving at Punta Viracho (Photo courtesy of Brandon Lever)
Camped with our friends in Punta Viracho
Soaking in the hot pools of Punta Viracho (Photo courtesy of Brandon Lever)
Punta Viracho campground (Photo courtesy of Brandon Lever)
Prices of the campground at Punta Viracho – Brandon paid for our stay.
And that wraps up our relatively low ($1,135) and relatively enjoyable month of October.
Massive fields in Uruguay
Juicy fields
Happy cows!
With all that electricity from driving, we happily plug in our devices
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
Next up: A three-week discovery of Uruguay
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After a three-month “summer break” in Massachusetts and Belgium, Mark and I looked forward to returning to our RV life in South America, which promised new adventures and horizons. But first, we had a few hurdles to overcome.
Route North in Argentina
Camp spots along Salto Grande Reservoir
For the first time since finishing our sailing episode in Tahiti in 2015, we decided to check a bag (we usually only fly with three or four carry-on/personal items). We needed to bring back spare parts and gear to fix our camper and truck, plus a few liquid novelties like maple syrup and dog shampoo. It had taken multiple attempts to fill this bag and not exceed 50 pounds. It was tricky, as we also didn’t want things to shift in this enormous duffel. Padding added weight. I even tried to put all our “to check” luggage into our carry-on roller, super tight, too tight, with a ripped zipper as a result.
In the end, I succeeded with the duffel bag. Since we had plenty to carry with us on the plane, I stuffed our rain jackets inside it as well. The scale at the airport showed 52 pounds. Ouch. But the lady was super friendly and impressed relieved that we only had one checked bag, so she let the overweight go. Thanks!
Then, we flew from Boston, MA, to Buenos Aires, Argentina, via Miami. We arrived early and hadn’t slept for 24 hours. The day had only just started and it was September 21st, the arrival of spring in the Southern Hemisphere.
We dealt with immigration (long lines), nervously waited for our one bag to arrive as one of the last pieces on the belt (that’s why we hate checking bags), swung by the friendly guy at agriculture for Maya’s paperwork, and sent all our luggage through X-ray machines at customs. And all that time, Maya couldn’t relieve herself, which stressed us out.
Our sets of metal brake pads raised questions. We managed to talk ourselves out of the legal fact that no traveler is allowed to import car parts. Not even when your Ford F350 doesn’t exist in Argentina and neither do the parts!
The exchange rate from dollars to pesos was horrible at the airport, so we passed on that, planning to pay our storage fee in USD. Finding an Uber that accepted dogs proved to be difficult as well. We lined up three taxi drivers, only to have the last man not cancel after we sent a private message about our well-behaved Maya. He took a few wrong turns and forgot to switch the meter off when he delivered us, but we made it to our home on wheels by 10am!
Reunited with Thirsty Bella on Julian’s property
Julian’s property had been perfect and affordable to store Thirsty Bella, but we knew from dropping our camper off and needing to prep it to be left unattended that this is NOT a usable campground, without running water to fill our tank or hot water in the shower block and with barking dogs and their poop everywhere. The mosquitoes were less of a problem, but now the toilet bowl had a gaping hole in it; flushing it flooded the bathroom floor and not in a pretty way. Don’t ask me how I know…
Anyway, after our set-up was rudimentary ready, we needed to leave ASAP. Plus, we had no food or drinks at all, after emptying the cupboards and fridge before we left. The first task at hand was start the truck. With a totally drained battery, this took a while, with the help of Julian’s trickle charger. Next step: reinstate our Starlink satellite internet account, which we had paused for three months, saving $210. Mark relocated our sign-up address from Peru to Argentina to avoid issues in the future.
Around noon, we generously rewarded Julian and his wife, Sofia, for their hospitality and help, before hugging them goodbye and maneuvering our camper under low-hanging electrical cables (which needed lifting with a stick) and through the narrow gate.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Leaving the challenging property where we’d stored our camper
Julian and Sofia
We stopped by a small tienda in a city with tight streets (Mark wasn’t thrilled about this unexpected “big rig” driving test on day one) to stock up on some staples and made our way to Zapparancho, the campground ran by the well-known Zapp family, who traveled around the world in an old, classic car for over twenty years. Our trio had stayed here in the past, so we knew Herman offered the right facilities to get ready for the road.
Welcomed back by Herman at his Zapparancho
The travel car of the Zapp family
Zapparancho – where (Argentinian) dreams begin….
A map of their route
The resident horse that thinks it’s a dog
We immediately filled up with drinking water, discovered an issue with the water heater – after three plumbing attempts, this got fixed – and realized our bathroom tap, which acts as a sink faucet as well as a showerhead, was leaking profusely and needed to be replaced. Darn. How can things break while they’re not being used?
Filling the camper with potable water again
This wall painting was new since our last time here
Testing and comparing two old tablets to act as our battery monitor
Mark fixing the water heater
Installing a new rod for the door, so it finally stays open again
Maya keeps busy with a new bone from the US
Luckily, our American motorcycle friends, Brandon and Katherine, were returning to Buenos Aires in a week as well. They happily received the package and brought the small part to our next meeting point, about ten days later.
The faucet that broke
New faucet in the bathroom. Thank you, Brandon and Katherine!
Zapparancho is a popular and buzzing place, where travelers meet and share meals. Yet, the price added up each day, standing water attracted mosquitoes, and the nights were noisy. We wanted to keep focusing on the jobs at hand and looked forward to getting on the road again.
Music and social times at Zapparancho
Shared pizza dinner at 11pm…
The sun was bright, but the wind was strong as we prepped our camper, went grocery shopping, did laundry, and organized everything the way it was.
The attractive cathedral of Lujan
Shopping in Lujan – store one
Shopping in Lujan – store two
Doing laundry; the last errand before leaving Zapparancho
We postponed the “big engine project” until later in the week. For that, we moved closer to the building. It blocked the wind, so no dirt would enter the engine compartment and work would be easier.
Moved to the building at Zapparancho, to be protected from the wind
Our afternoon here turned into an extra day and night
Which work? Mark needed to replace the 16 sparkplugs and 8 ignition coils on the engine block, all in one go. I was his assistant and mental support person, as always. It didn’t take long before I heard him curse. One of the sparkplugs was stuck. It didn’t want to unscrew. As he predicted, this turned into a massive ordeal! When he finally got it loose, the threads were damaged, meaning the receiving end on the engine block was compromised as well and the new sparkplug couldn’t go in.
Mark has organized all his tools and the new parts
Keeping track of old and new parts
I will make a long story short. We finished replacing the other 15 sparkplugs and all the ignition coils without issues and then focused on the damaged sparkplug, which had been inserted incorrectly by the factory. Our car only has 60,000 miles on the odometer and this was the first time the sparkplugs were touched by a person. Yes, this miss-threaded part was Ford’s fault; a rare mistake.
Yet, here we were. In Argentina. Without the right equipment, confidence, or knowledge for an issue of this magnitude. And far away from a good mechanic in the capital. One piece of metal accidentally entering the motor block during any maneuver and our engine would be damaged and possibly needing replacement! Mark fabricated a rethreading/chasing tool out of an old sparkplug to “clean” the threads but, ultimately, we didn’t trust ourselves to do the job.
The damaged sparkplug
Making a “chaser” out of an old sparkplug
So, we researched and enabled the best mechanic we could find in Buenos Aires, convinced him to drive out an hour and half each way to help us, and hired him to do the work. His initial quote was $300-$400. But… the first time he and a helper arrived, they were baffled by the tricky nature of this job and preferred to return the next morning, Saturday, with proper tools.
First visit by the mechanics from Buenos Aires
Necessary hot water for mate, for the drive back to the capital
That morning became evening, but they eventually showed up at dusk with modified tools and an endoscopic camera and – after a couple of hours – they cautiously and professionally fixed the issue, inserted the new sparkplug, and listened to the engine purr nicely. The final price for the job was $600, which hurt, but was better than the feared-for, worst-case scenario! And, we could get back to our travels the following day.
Endoscopic camera to see what’s going on with the threads
Second visit of the mechanics – one of them has to lie on the engine of our big truck to reach things
Final assembly of the engine parts
Luckily, we were not in a hurry as early spring is still too soon to head south to Patagonia and Ushuaia. We had a month of “lingering around” planned, to wait for better weather. We left the capital area and headed north in Argentina. Our initial camping spot didn’t work out due to it being a Sunday, which means packed parking lots and parks. So, we ended up at a truck stop in Zarate. Nothing too glorious for our first night back on the road!
Our first night back on the road – a truck stop/fuel station
The coming and going of semi trucks made this place loud at night.
Our next destination was Gualeguachú, which takes a while to pronounce. We found a grassy spot along the river to park up for a few days, work, and explore town. We braved one super-hot and humid day on which we couldn’t do much.
Freshly painted sign!
Our grassy camp spot along the river of Gualeguaychu
Walk through the old harbor
Walk along the river
Nice building on our walk through town
Church in the center of town
Back to wads of cash – this is the equivalent of $100
Who would have guessed this heat in spring? Luckily, it was only one day.
We also needed a blood test and paperwork for Maya to enter Uruguay. On our walk to the vet, she got attacked again by a loose, owned dog. Not a stray. Stray dogs behave friendly or shy; not protective.
Vet visit to get Maya’s newest paperwork
Leishmaniasis blood test for Uruguay
Followed by loose dogs
We urgently had to come up with a rough, northern route. Initially, we wanted to make a loop through Southern Brazil, along the coast of Uruguay, and back into Argentina. After deliberation, and chats with my virtual travel friend and blog follower Gilda (who is from Southern Brazil), we changed plans and decided to skip that part of her country. This would save us a chunk of time and gas money.
It was in Gualeguachú that Brandon and Katherine joined us for a night with their motorcycles and tent. They brought their Argentinian friend, Federico, which produced deeper insights into the country and culture for us. We shared a nice dinner in Bella and enjoyed a fun evening and restful night.
The arrival of our friends and their friend
Hanging out and soaking up the sun with Katherine, Brandon, and Federico
We’d forgotten Maya’s precious bone at Zapparancho and Brandon found it when they camped there for the night! Happy us – and happy Maya!
Our setup along the river (Photo courtesy of Brandon Lever)
Happy hour with new and old friends (Photo courtesy of Brandon Lever)
Girl talk with Katherine (Photo courtesy of Brandon Lever)
Mark grills chicken on our BBQ (Photo courtesy of Brandon Lever)
Grilled dinner inside Bella with all of us. It was the first time we ate inside our camper with five adults!
The following day, after Mark and I ran more errands, our little group met up again, further north, at Punta Viracho. Federico had moved on towards Paraguay.
Passing through a herd of capybara on our way to the campground
Brandon and Katherine love hot springs and they’d discovered that staying at a campground in that area was affordable and included unlimited entrance into hot pools and a waterpark within walking distance. We took their invitation and camped close together for a few more nights. We could see Uruguay on the other side of the massive reservoir that is Salto Grande.
Settled next to the reservoir in an established campground.
Camped next to our friends at this campground
Our set-up at the campground for three days
Another dinner together
Our first highlight – and surprise – was the herd of capybaras that lives on this peninsula. It was amazing to just watch and photograph the adults and babies.
Posing with our new neighbors
Resting capybaras
Capybaras lined up near a puddle – they love water!
More capybaras
A walk among the capybaras
Family of capybaras
Nice coincidence!
Maya – on a leash – behaved really well among these wild creatures.
This group wasn’t very shy!
So cute!
Here is a video from when they walked by.
And, who knew they like to swim?
We weren’t the only ones happy to soak!
Swimming capybaras at dusk
We enjoyed quality time and homecooked meals with our friends and managed to soak and play in the hot pools several times as well. Since it was weekend, however, the pools got crowded.
Walk to the hot springs and past the capybaras on our first evening
Peacock at the pools
Big lizard at the pools
Soaking with friends
One of the peacocks in full glory
And, I really have to stop doing crazy things at my age. This was the fastest slide I’d ever been on!!
Hugging our dear friends goodbye was more emotional than usually, as we won’t see them again on this continent. We had the fortune of meeting up in five South American countries – Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina – in the last year and a half, but now they’re hopping over to Africa to continue their world travels.
Katherine and Brandon ready to go, in the rain
Bye, bye, friends!
The three of us only hopped to the next peninsula (Soler) along the reservoir for a couple more days of rest, wind, and rain – and stress for Maya, thanks to twigs and leaves falling onto the roof of the camper – in Argentina.
Rainy camping spot on Peninsula Soler
Nervous Maya chewed through her leash when we tried to prevent her from joining us in bed after a third night of her panting and us not being able to sleep!
View of the reservoir
Wet forest walk
On a walk with our dog, we heard these weird noises…
Unfortunately, because of our location by a turnaround point at the end of the road, it proved much busier and louder than expected. So, on October 9th, after filling our gas tank and pantry, we left Argentina and entered a new-to-us country: Uruguay.
Heading towards the border with Uruguay
Stocking up in Concordia, Argentina, before crossing the border into Uruguay
Filling up with fuel – including our jerrycan – in Concordia, Argentina, before crossing the border into Uruguay
Time for a new country!
Next up: Our monthly expense report for October 2024
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary
Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits.Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed and possible.
After spending three months in Europe and the US over the summer, Mark, Maya, and I returned to Argentina on September 21st, the first day of spring (primavera) down here. While the initial three weeks of the month had been cheap, thanks to the generosity of our parents regarding food expenses and car use, we immediately blew the budget once we moved back into our truck camper, Thirsty Bella . The flights had been paid for last March.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Returning from grocery shopping in Belgium
A wonderful gift of beer and chocolate from our friends!
Leaving Europe
Belgian chocolate – for friends, family, and ourselves
So, September 2024 was an expensive month for us, especially since we spent it all in the final ten days! Some of the high costs were expected, like Maya’s export permit, storage for our camper, an official campground, and renewing our car insurance for South America; others were not only surprising but also scary…
One of the mechanics needs to lie on the engine to work on it.
Our low-mileage F350 truck engine developed a serious issue – factory induced – when we did some maintenance on it upon our arrival in Argentina. A miss-threaded sparkplug (one of the sixteen) was difficult to remove and appeared to have damaged threads. This made it impossible to replace with a new one and caused profound worries about how to fix the issue. Especially since the spark plug hole was hidden, so out of view and difficult to access. We were stranded!
We moved our car closer to the building to work without too much hinder from the strong wind.
Mark organizing his tools for this day-long project
Old ignition coils and sparkplugs lined up
The culprit of our engine issue: a damaged, previouly miss-threaded sparkplug.
Long story short: we needed to hire professional, cautious, and capable mechanics who wouldn’t only be willing to drive to our campground an hour and a half outside Buenos Aires, but who could also solve our predicament. The pair came out twice and managed to install the new spark plug without damaging the engine block or anything else. The price tag: US$600 (reduced to $570, since we paid some in the local currency). It would have been cheaper ($500) if we would have possessed the full amount in pesos.
First visit from the mechanics – the job was too complicated without the right equipment, which they didn’t bring.
Second visit of the mechanics – in the evening this time!
This time, they brought an endoscopic camera to see what was going on. Very important!
They worked on the car with special tools until 8:30pm.
We renewed our Mercasur countries liability insurance for another year for $358, which was three times as high as six months ago! Yes, prices keep rising in Argentina. The storage fee for our camper at Julian’s place was cheap. He charges only 25,000 pesos a month, so we tipped him another 30% to make the bill exactly $100. We also paid $3 for toll roads.
Reunited with Thirsty Bella at Julian’s place
Being waved off by Julian and his wife
Julian and I guide Mark and our fat camper through the narrow gate
Julian and his wife Sofia
To reach that whopping $1,079 for the car category, we also ordered tools to work on the sparkplug and ignition coils projects, bought fuel for my mother-in-law’s car in the US, and paid $2 for parking at Salisbury Beach, which is very close to our home base in Massachusetts, but I’d never been.
Using the car from Mark’s mom for visits to friends. Driving in Boston turned bad. Twice.
Visiting friends in Duxbury, on the other side of Boston
First visit to Salisbury Beach, close to Newburyport
Our camper pantry and fridge were totally empty when we returned to Buenos Aires, so a giant stock-up was needed. On our first day back, we stopped by a small shop for necessities, before reaching the Zapparancho campground, where we’d regroup and prepare for the rest of our South American journey.
One of the chain grocery stores we visited
The international food chain
After the weekend, we drove to the town of Lujan to visit two supermarkets for a first heavy-loaded run. We immediately missed the diversity and quality of goods we’d gotten used to in the US and Belgium. It will take a few more grocery stops to fill the camper up.
Maya needed a new international health certificate from the US to enter Argentina, so there went another $225. We are super happy that vet fees and shots are much more affordable down south!
Another thing I did back in Massachusetts was reclaim my Plunge books from the local bookstore, where the owner had “archived” them in the storage room, because none had sold in the last two years. Better to distribute them from our camper!
Reclaiming my Plunge books from a local bookstore. The owner had put them in the storage room!
On the first day of our return to the continent, we filled our camper with potable water, installed a new part on the water heater – which leaked and needed a few tightening attempts; we hate plumbing! – and discovered the bathroom faucet was leaking. We use this handle in the sink and as a shower head. Wasting water in a small camper is detrimental.
Topping up with water
Filling with water and checking all the systems
Fixing a plug for the water heater
Replacing the pressurized bar of our door
Who would be returning to Buenos Aires soon as well? Our US motorcycle friends Katherine and Brandon! And, yes, they could bring back the small and light replacement part. We paid more than normal to ship it to their address in time. A few random other parts rounded out the camper category.
The faucet part that leaked and had to be replaced, and its size
The new faucet part delivered by friends, installed, and leak-free!
In general, our health and fitness category is low, since we rarely go to hair dressers or buy health products. But, a visit to the US is the opportune time to stock up on specialized toothpaste (which I now rely on), a bottle of aloe vera, and nine months’ worth of vitamins.
Another pile of Amazon packages awaits us, mostly from Vine.
Even a checked-bag was available on Vine, with some patience.
Mark and I always fly with carry-on luggage only, unless we have a huge amount of gear, products, and/or parts to bring back. In this case, we checked one bag for $60 and donated it afterwards. Many packages waited for us in Massachusetts after our break in Belgium. Most were Vine Voice items, which we order for free in return for an honest review. We brought back a lot of useful products!
A moose antler for Maya – the first toy that holds her attention for more than a few seconds!
New flip flops for Mark
I ordered a soft, fleece blanket for Maya. I mean, Mark.
My new, stainless-steel water bottle
New cushion covers for the dinette, ordered through Vine
Laundry basket from Amazon Vine
And we brought Maya’s new, free bowl as well.
We counted on a week at an official campground to get ready for the road again – unpacking, organizing, shopping, cleaning, filling with water, fixing issues, engine maintenance, catching up on sleep, and researching a route and upcoming destinations. Our unexpected engine issue extended that stay, so we paid around $50 for eight nights at Zapparancho.
Being welcomed by Herman at Zapparancho
Zapparancho has a new mural since last time we visited in June
Two of our three website domain name registrations were due for renewal in September and the monthly subscription fee for our Starlink satellite internet service went up. Depending on the exchange rate, we now pay about $80 a month, half of which is taken care of by our business.
Within an hour of arriving in Bella, after getting Thirsty’s engine started with an extra boost (first things first), Mark unpaused our internet service and reregistered our Starlink account in Argentina instead of Peru, where we’d bought the unit. The fees in Peru had risen enormously and being registered here works better if the policy of only being allowed two months outside of the host country will be enforced.
A nice evening with friends at their lake house in New Hampshire
Money also went to alcohol/wine ($29) in the US as gifts for friends and in Argentina for ourselves, an Uber taxi from the airport in BA to our camper 45 minutes away ($22), shared meals at Zapparancho and a food stand choripan ($18), a new doormat and baskets from Dollar Tree ($4), and laundry ($3).
The asado cook grabs us a chorizo (chori) for the bread bun (pan)
Ordering our first choripan at a stand in Villars
Social evening with pizza, wine, and music
The old, small washing machine for campers at Zapparancho still works well.
The chocolate we brought back and our share of the Airbnb we rented with our German friends in Liege was paid for with my Belgian funds, which are not part yet of our bookkeeping records.
I paid for part of this Airbnb rental with my money in Belgium.
A perfect space for four adults and two dogs
Snacks in Liege for a 20-hour reunion with German friends
While our total amount for September is well above average, we did manage to stay under $2,000 despite the extra expenses. We boondocked after leaving Zapparancho and are cooking all our meals at home. Having been “sponsored” in Belgium, I did realize that Mark and I never went out for a meal just the two of us, there or anywhere else, in the last four months.
Our first night back on the road at a truck stop in Zarate
Our free camping spot in Gualeguaychu
Can you believe how hot it was in the beginning of spring? Luckily, only for one day.
On the plane back home to Bella, I promised myself I would become less frugal when it comes to spoiling ourselves, which includes eating out. It’s something we thoroughly enjoy and, you know, cooking and doing dishes every evening gets old. Then, we faced that extra $600 bill for the engine (the world’s most expensive sparkplug), and my intentions went out the window! Give me a few months without unexpected bills and I might reconsider again. 😊
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
Next up: A one-week vacation in the Black Forest of Germany.
If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!
Where do I begin? This was the first time in 21 years that I returned to my home country for more than two weeks. It’s very different to “live” in Belgium instead of frantically seeing all my friends and relatives in a span of fourteen days every year or two. That method always felt like it was a dream; a whirlwind of activity that seemingly didn’t happen because it flew by so fast. I skipped last year.
Leaving for Belgium from Massachusetts after three and a half weeks with Mark’s family
Belgium, here we come!
Mark, Maya, and I made the decision to visit Belgium for two months straddling July, August, and September, to take an extensive break from our life on the road in South America and to enjoy quality time with my family and friends.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Our living room
Our patio and view of the narrow, rectangular house
Our dining area and work station
Our kitchen
Our bedroom
Our borrowed car
Our bathroom
My parents let us use their small vacation house nearby, so we had the privacy and comfort of a real home, while being in driving, biking, or walking distance of everything we needed and everyone we wanted to see, including them. I also had first dibs on their only car. Life was easy!
Posing with my brother, Robin, and his family in the little house.
Time for gifts!
Nephew Lenn is happy with his soccer shirt, straight from Argentina.
Visit to my friend Hilde in St. Niklaas
Incredible homemade quiche lunch at my friend Hilde’s place
A vending machine for fresh strawberries!
Meeting an aunt and uncle at my parents’ place
Posing with Kim, Eli, and their youngest son, Giel.
Snack time at my friend Kim’s place in Lokeren
The first two weeks, we got settled in “the little house” as we came to call it and worked a lot, while sprinkling in visits to family members and going for daily walks with Maya in the natural areas around us.
Which of the fifty rums shall we try tonight?
My cousin and her husband prepared a Belgian staple: mussels and fries.
The brewery in my cousin’s yard
Mark helped Wim brew a batch of beer, while the girls planned our upcoming 10-day trip to Germany.
Going for a walk in the neighborhood
My cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, live in Boom, famous for Tomorrowland. We had a look “behind the scenes” on our walk.
Tasting some special and funny rum in Boom
Being able to just walk outside and follow trails around the lake (Donk) any time we wanted was a big plus of this location!
Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits.Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed and possible.
While our truck camper Thirsty Bella is stored in Buenos Aires, Argentina, Mark, Maya, and I are on a summer break from the road. Or is it a winter break? Last month, we lived in Belgium and traveled to Germany and Liechtenstein with my cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim. More about that in a future post.
Reaction from the land owner where we stored our camper, when asked how Bella is doing
Reaction from the land owner where we stored our camper, when asked how Bella is doing
Maya is comfortable “at home” in Belgium
The Principality of Liechtenstein
Back and forth to Austria
It’s been ages since I sent a postcard!
Half-timbered houses in Cawl
One of the many cuckoo clocks in the Black Forest of Germany
Triberg Falls
Our August 2024 expense report is probably the most unusual one we’ve ever posted. Not because we didn’t spend any money – we just spent other people’s money! Kind of. My parents generously provided the funds for fuel and groceries in my home country, friends and family cooked meals when we visited, and I used Belgian savings for our ten-day European vacation.
Rosy is cooking an amazing Thai curry, which inspired us for our meals at home.
Extensive breakfast at Rosy and Peter’s place
Second dinner at Rosy and Peter’s place
Belgian fries from the fry shop with a big, homemade salad
Our wheels in Belgium
Going out for drinks with Sven and Mieke
Healthy dinner prepared by Griet, after Mark and I helped with the brewer Wim’s beer bottling
Sunday breakfasts like these are the best – Thank you, Griet and Wim!
Making our own version of Thai curry
Grocery run by bike in Berlare, Belgium
Dinner spread at my aunt’s place
Posing with friends An and Kristof, after they prepared an amazing BBQ for us
Croque madame = croque monsieur (grilled cheese and ham sandwich) topped with an egg
To be transparent and give you an idea, that trip cost us 943 euros or 1,046 US dollars; €565/$627 for ten nights of lodging (seven in the Black Forest and three in Austria) and €378/$419 for excursions, transportation, and food.
Ski lift to the top – hiking down
Wim drove us to and in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Liechtenstein
Black Forest cake
German beers for the boys
Ice cream cones and Peruvian sweaters for the nieces
Each day, we made our own lunches (sandwiches) and dinners were split 50/50 between eating out and cooking at our rented apartments.
Sandwich lunch in Malbun, Liechtenstein
Picnic lunch after a hike in the Black Forest
Mark cooks dinner at our first apartment in Germany.
When it was chilly, we ate inside.
Usually, it was warm enough to eat meals outside.
Flammkuche at a restaurant in the Black Forest
The men are cooking a typical German dinner: bratwurst with sauerkraut and a potato pancake
Comfort food out: tagliatelle with cream sauce, ham, and cheese
Our last dinner together, at a restaurant in Austria
As far as our own US money is concerned (which our bookkeeping resembles), we only spent $125. Most of that went to gifts ($108), $9 bought two beers in Liechtenstein for Mark and Wim, and the remaining $8 was claimed by Amazon for a new pair of discounted shorts for Mark. It is safe to say that we finally earned more money than we consumed in August. 😊
Biannual (every two years) open-air musical near us – we bought tickets for my parents, who’d never attended a musical before
Taking my niece and nephew mini-golfing on his birthday
Vaduz beer for the boys
This month, life is turning back to normal. We are ordering more items online for our return to Argentina and will soon stop over in Massachusetts (USA) again for our final week away from the camper. Mark, Maya, and I are scheduled to be reunited with a totally empty Thirsty Bella on September 21st. That is exactly two weeks from today. Time flies!
August 2024 Overview:
Gifts:
Drinking out:
Clothing (shorts M):
TOTAL:
$108
$9
$8
———
$ 125
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!
Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits.Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed and possible.
While our truck camper Thirsty Bella is stored in Buenos Aires, Argentina, Mark, Maya, and I are on a summer break. Or is it a winter break? The first week of July, we were still in Newburyport, Massachusetts, visiting friends and dentists, but the rest of the month, we lived comfortably in my home country of Belgium.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Wonderful evenings and meals with Don and Janet in Vermont
Lovely tajine meal in Vermont
Paella in Vermont
Mark hard at work – the WiFi in our little house is perfect!
A real bedroom with a real bed!
Maya is comfortable as well
This expense report is a bit unusual, since my parents are generously sponsoring us while we are “home.” This is mostly visible in the grocery, dog, and fuel categories!
Maya cost us the most for the second month in a row. We had to pay for overnight shipping of her health permit from the USDA, in order to receive it in time and take her with us to Belgium. We also ordered another annual dose of heartworm pills, while my parents paid for her salmon-based food.
The car came in second, but it wasn’t our truck. Storage fees for Thirsty Bella will appear once we return to Argentina. We used my mother-in-law’s car in Massachusetts, USA, to get around, so we filled it up again before we left. And, Mark ordered special grease for Thirsty.
Our wheels in Massachusetts
When Mark spots a deal for something we need, he snatches it up. This time, it was for an annual subscription (in 2025) of Quicken, the program we use for our bookkeeping and finances. Usually, this tool costs twice as much ($120).
Since I am having issues with my teeth and gums, we ordered more electric toothbrush heads and a water flosser. Has anyone ever used one? I’m hoping it’s a game changer regarding gum disease.
And, we keep ordering more items online for our camper: electrical wire, since Mark used our spare spools to install a Starlink unit in a friend’s camper, and new bed sheets and properly sized toilet bags.
The gifts from last month’s expense report have been delivered. 🙂
Gift unwrapping by my niece and nephew in Berlare
Gift for my nephew
Groceries came in at only $5. Not realistic in the long run; we have to thank our parents for this nice financial break. I also bought Mark a t-shirt in a thrift store, but it doesn’t quite fit and he doesn’t like it, so we see those $4 as charity. 🙂
Lunch consists of fresh whole wheat bread, cheese (for me), and vegetables
How about this? A salmon & Brie cheese sandwich!
This is why I come to Belgium: fresh and tasty pastries from the bakery.
We’ve been cooking wholesome meals at home and I’ve been enjoying the Belgian food and treats tremendously. From money I have put away in Belgium (not part of our accounting), I bought an oven for the little house we are staying in and beer for Mark.
Healthy meals at home
Mark makes his own granola in the second-hand oven I bought.
Mark tests the beer my cousin’s husband brews.
Our friends and family have been spoiling us as well with fantastic food and drinks!
Rum tasting, anyone? A choice of 80 (!) different rums…
Mussels and fries, a typical Belgian dish
Healthy fare at my cousin’s house in Boom
Group photo of us with Kim and part of her family
Lunch invite by my friend Hilde: she made three quiches from scratch!
Spread of amazing appetizers at my friend Kim’s place in Lokeren
My friend Hilde and I pick up fresh strawberries at this vending machine to top our ice cream dessert.
Aperitif at my friends Rosy and Peter in Merelbeke
Rosy makes a second dinner for us: Thai green curry. Delicious!
And another big spread for breakfast. Can you spot the fresh pastries?
Other than that, I bought an eBook about the writing craft (nope, I’m not working on another book, yet) and we went on a lot of walks with Maya. Low costs for entertainment in July. I also wanted to point out that we slept for free and paused our Starlink satellite internet subscription for the summer, which saves us $70 (usually split between business and personal expenses.)
Maya meets a sheep
On a walk in Berlare, where we are staying
Walking along the Donk lake, where we are staying
Walking around Lier with my cousin and her husband
Walking along the beach in Holland
Walk in Damme
Day trip to Damme with Rosy and her family
It’s hard to believe that our total for last month amounted to under $400 and I sure wish we could keep that up! We thank my mom and dad for this “all inclusive” stay in Belgium.
Maya is also getting spoiled!
Maya is not complaining
July 2024 Overview:
Dog (permits: $80; meds: $50):
Car ( fuel: $61; maintenance: $2):
Computer hardware (Quicken 2025):
Health & Fitness (teeth hygiene):
Household (sheets & bags):
Camper (electrical wire):
Groceries:
Clothing:
Entertainment (eBook):
Accommodation:
Utilities:
TOTAL:
$130
$63
$62
$58
$44
$19
$5
$4
$2
$0
$0
———
$ 387
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!
Many of you know that I, Liesbet, was born, raised, and educated in Belgium. But, did you know that it has been 21 years since I actually lived there (July 2003)?
Goodbye party invitation front
Goodbye party invitation back
That’s right, I have officially been a nomad for over two decades now. During that time of sailing, RVing, house and pet sitting, and overlanding (a fancy term for roughing it internationally in a vehicle), I tried to return to my home country once a year or every other year. During Covid, it took three years before I was able to see my family and friends again. Too long!
For me, it comes easy to leave everything behind, because I have an adventurous streak and do just fine on my own (and with my husband and furry companions). If I were to get homesick easily, miss my loved ones too much, or crave familiarity and routine, this roaming lifestyle would not be a good match! That is not to say I don’t enjoy summer visits “back home,” usually for two or three weeks at a time.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Ready to fly to Belgium
Departing Boston
On the plane – we were the only ones wearing a mask!
Mark, Maya, and I are currently in Belgium. For two entire months! This is beyond exciting and special. For once, there is no need to rush, have an overfull schedule, and feel more tired when I leave than when I arrived. It’s not a vacation – Mark and I still perform our jobs – but to be living in comfort with a healthy dose of routine, convenience, and luxury is something we don’t take for granted and enjoy immensely.
It’s like Christmas! Opening the many packages we ordered while still in Argentina.
Two new pairs of jeans for Mark. Exciting!
One of the slow feeders we ordered for Maya in Massachusetts
Maya with one of her new toys, which holds frozen peanut butter
Most toys are boring to Maya
This new toy contains food nuggets that are dispensed when Maya moves the toy around.
Maya’s first real dog bed. She likes it!
At the dentist – many issues with my teeth
This visit to Belgium follows a hellishly busy three weeks in Massachusetts, USA, during which we combined tons of health visits and follow-ups (22 between Mark and me; two for Maya) with work, taking care of my mother-in-law, dealing with (extra) issues regarding her car, running errands, preparing for our trip to Belgium, buying gear for Thirsty Bella in Argentina, and squeezing in leisure time with friends.
Mark hard at work
Our new living quarters, since niece Jo and her husband moved in with grandma
Hanging out on the patio with Mark’s mom, Carol
Maya loves tight spots!
Maya and a neighbor’s dog, Wetzel
Mother-in-law Carol had a little fall, so 911 checked in on her and Jo, our in-home nurse practitioner family member, took care of her. Luckily, nothing serious…
Visit from the fire brigade
Cooking healthy meals every day
Quick visit to friends Joe and Elsa in Newton, MA, after a specialist’s health check-up
Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂
This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits.Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed and possible.
Mark, Maya, and I spent the first eleven days of June with our truck camper Thirsty Bella in Buenos Aires, Argentina. On that last evening, Julian, the owner of our storage spot, brought us to Ezeiza International Airport and we flew – via JFK – to Boston, Massachusetts, for the rest of the month and into July.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Time for a summer adventure
We flew from Argentina to the US with American Airlines
Our route for the first 11 hours
For once, the car category wasn’t the highest one. Maya received that honor. Before leaving Argentina, we needed a health certificate and export paperwork for her (about $40 in total). On our first day in the US, we had an appointment with a vet to administer another rabies shot (the three-year version as that would make things easier for returns to the US) for $45. In South America, we paid between $4 and $7 for this!
Another vet visit for Maya
Visit to the agriculture department at BA airport before leaving
We also obtained an international health certificate for Belgium that day, which cost $220 and was valid for one month. This document had to be endorsed and validated by the USDA within 10 days of our departure date and a hard copy with seals had to be mailed back to us (overnight) for another $80 (July expense). We picked it up before leaving the country and made another appointment for September to repeat this process for Argentina. In addition, we bought a bag of salmon-based dog food. I mentioned that Maya would be pricy this summer!
Mark ordered a spare propane regulator for the camper, as well as an improved DC-DC battery charger. The regulator will save us in South America (where it is not available) if the old one dies. Without this, we can’t use our propane tank. The new charger will allow us to put a higher amount of power into our Lithium battery when we run the car, which helps on weeks of little or weak sunshine.
We needed improvements on the computer front as well and ordered two external keyboards and a bigger hard drive for our Surface laptops, a new tablet for the car (which we use for navigation and music), and a router for our home base in Massachusetts.
Testing the new tablet for our truck in Argentina
Our grocery bill was higher than it should have been, based on us finishing all the food in Bella’s fridge and cabinets and Mark’s mom sponsoring most of our shopping trips to Market Basket. We contributed to a family party and bought some goodies once in the US.
Family party – We provided the cheese and salami platter as an appetizer.
Gifts are usually in order whenever we return to our home countries. This time, I bought a few presents for my niece and nephew in Belgium (still to be delivered) and a wooden sign for a friend, we celebrated that friend’s birthday, and we treated one of Mark’s nieces and her husband to a delayed wedding dinner at a Thai restaurant.
Gift for Denise, who loves signs. By the way, this reads pee pee room.
Birthday balloons!
Birthday flowers and gifts
Floating in the pool with birthday girl Denise
Delayed wedding dinner at the Thai restaurant with Jo and Tom
Those friends splurged us on a weekend visit, that same niece organized a family party for us, and one of Mark’s nephews took Mark and me out to dinner.
Mark’s niece Jo took care of the family dinner.
Chinese take-out dinner at our friends Ryan and Denise’s place
Breakfast at our friends Ryan and Denise’s place
Look at that hard liquor smoothie at our sister-in-law’s restaurant, The Cormorant… It was super delicious!
Dinner out with nephew Randall and his wife Rebeccah
The car category consisted of fuel purchases in Argentina (we left Thirsty with a full tank so condensation – and therefore water – can’t build up) and Massachusetts, where we were fortunate to have the use of my mother-in-law’s car. Parking had to be paid at Dana Farber Cancer Institute in Boston and Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires. We reimbursed Julian for the tolls to the airport.
We used the car from Mark’s mom to get around Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Vermont.
Our annual Chase credit card fee was due ($95), we spent around $50 on alcohol (beer and rum) during our stay and visits in the US, and we managed to order two dinners in Buenos Aires for $35 in total: a pizza and sushi. Both were delivered to our doorstep in one of Palermo’s parks, where we slept.
Interesting, spongy pie that is eaten with pizza in Argentina. Don’t ask me why…
A pizza for two – We made a mistake ordering. We usually never eat salami/pepperoni on pizza.
Splurging on heaps of sushi
Mark is picking out all the cream cheese that rolls in Argentina come with.
Our camping spot in Palermo, Buenos Aires, for two weeks.
An Uber brought us and our Dutch friends to San Telmo in Argentina’s capital one day and another one brought us back. We paid Julian the equivalent of $20 for bringing us to the airport, half an hour away.
Weekend fair in San Telmo
Artisanal goods in San Telmo
Moving on to Health & Fitness. I inquired at two hair dressers in Palermo, BA, how much it would cost to get a haircut, since I was convinced it would be cheaper than in our western countries and I wanted to start the summer with a short hairdo. Mission accomplished for $11. The other $13 went to electric toothbrush heads on Amazon.
New haircut
The laundry place that took care of our dirty clothes and linen
Of course, I shopped around before deciding on a laundromat. I took photos of each as a visual reminder of the choices.
Our $9 laundry expense was manageable in June and I visited La Recoleta cemetery for another $7, while Mark and Maya waited outside. It was pricey, but I don’t want to miss out on too many things anymore while on this South American journey. The Museum of Fine Art was free.
Entrance to La Recoleta Cemetery
Graves and mausoleums in the famous cemetery
A city of the dead
Paul Gauguin
Auguste Rodin
Household goods we purchased when prepping our camper to be left for multiple months were bleach to attack mold on our walls due to all the condensation and cold weather, and anti-moisture products to keep this issue at bay during our absence.
Apart from one night at Julian’s place for $7, our camping in June was free. We boondocked in the Palermo district of Buenos Aires. Once in Massachusetts, we stayed in the guest room of my mother-in-law’s condo.
Bella is prepped, winterized, and stored on Julian’s property.
Our current abode in Newburyport, Massachusetts
Being Amazon Vine members allows us to order a selection of items for free in return for product reviews. Since we have to be in the US to partake, we took advantage of that by ordering as much as we needed this way, which saved us hundreds of dollars.
Many Vine goods to sort through. Because of the poor quality of some items, we never keep all the orders.
Maya’s first real dog bed… She loves it!
New food and water bowl for Maya
Maya looses interest in toys quickly.
Frozen peanut butter is the best!
We ordered a lot of toys and goodies for Maya via our Vine account.
Mark paused our Starlink satellite internet connection for three months, so that’s less money spent. And, we still have a donation from long-time supporter Marian to use this summer. Speaking of summer, we sure feel like cheating by taking a plane from a chilly winter in the Southern Hemisphere to a hot and humid summer in the US! 😊
While June wasn’t a cheap month, the damage was manageable, knowing how much “stuff” we needed for our return to the camper.
On a side note, Mark and I had a little issue with some crisp US dollar bills we had hidden under the toilet, when our pee container overflew, because the sensor got stuck. The Ziploc bag that held the cash, leaked. We had to rinse each bill and hang it to dry! I guess we need a different hiding spot…
Our precious, rinsed and wet, money
Money laundering 🙂
Mark dries some of the bills in front of the heater vent.
June 2024 Overview:
Dog (permits: $257; food: $57; shot: $45):
Camper (propane regulator, charger USA):
Computer hardware:
Groceries:
Gifts:
Car ( fuel: $147; parking: $11; tolls: $2):
Bank charge (annual CC fee):
Alcohol:
Dining out (take-outs in BA):
Transportation (Uber, airport ride):
Health & Fitness (haircut, toothbrushes):
Laundry:
Entertainment:
Household:
Camping:
Utilities:
TOTAL:
$359
$312
$296
$242
$187
$160
$95
$53
$35
$25
$24
$9
$8
$8
$7
$0
———
$ 1,820
(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)
Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.
If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!
Mark, Maya, and I had plenty of time to reach Buenos Aires when we left San Rafael earlier than planned, as we bid farewell to our friends, who needed to prepare for their departure from South America as well. Our flights to the US wouldn’t leave from Argentina’s capital until June 11th and it was only May 22nd when we began our boring three-day ride east, across the continent and country.
Our route in Central Argentina
Buenos Aires and surroundings
Realico
Our first driving day consisted of five uninspiring hours in the car on this flat stretch of Central Argentina. Because of the decent, straight roads, we could let our “pothole guard” down, listened to Spotify music through our Starlink antenna, and clocked decent fuel mileage.
Play on words in the province La Pampa
In grey, rainy, and cold Realico, we found many mosquitoes, a free municipal campground where we spent two nights, and the cheapest gasoline in months. Especially since the exchange rate for the peso had finally gone up. Three weeks out from temporarily leaving our life on the road behind, we started to plan meals around getting rid of all our food – dry and fresh.
Free Municipal Campground in Realico
Junin
As I mentioned before, Mark and I never know what to expect when we pick a potential campsite in our iOverlander app. We usually have a back-up in mind, when things don’t turn out upon arrival. Well, after another boring drive east, Laguna de Gomez in Junin offered extensive areas of green grass, level spots, and a peaceful atmosphere. We loved it from the moment we arrived, took Maya for a walk, and settled in for a few days.
Colorful town sign of Junin
Except, this was the night I described in my expense report of May 2024; when the temperature dropped well below freezing, the butane in our propane tank failed to produce gas, and we couldn’t cook or heat our camper anymore. Mark poured warmish water over the tank after heating that up on the struggling pilot-size flame of our stove, which saved us from shivering more. We needed a better solution!
(As always, click on or hover over the photos in galleries to read their captions.)
The coldest night we’ve had so far!
Even the windshield was frozen!
Opening and airing out all our cabinets to fight condensation and mold
Our options: top up the now half-empty butane tank with propane, which would make everything function again in cold weather or move to a location where it wouldn’t freeze. Since it was a holiday Saturday, nobody would be able to sell us propane. So, after a nice walk with Maya and the discovery that our electric lock had a problem, we left our wonderful spot by the lagoon.
Cold but spacious Junin
Soaking up the sunrays by the reservoir in Junin
Funny bathroom symbols in Junin
Taking our electric lock apart
San Antonio de Areco
After another three hours of driving, we reached San Antonio de Areco, an attractive town not too far from Buenos Aires. Due to a parking ban, there is really only one decent place to wild camp, near the museum on the edge of town. The weather forecast promised above-freezing temperatures here and we would top up our propane tank first thing on Monday. Due to all the cold weather, condensation had become a problem and mold was growing in the seams of Bella’s walls. We attacked it with a bleach-water mixture and lifted the mattress with a fan blowing underneath.
A new friend for Maya
Airing out the mattress
The center of town was relatively attractive as far as Argentina goes (but still nowhere near as cute as its Colombians counterparts) and within walking distance of our camper. The nearby park was great for dog walks as well. A restaurant in the neighborhood threw awesome Sunday asados (grilled meat fests). While appealing, we passed due to the frigid weather. We hope to return for this meal in the future.
Cute historic bridge and river in Areco
Historic center of San Antonio de Areco
Church at the town square
San Antonio de Areco is a nice town to stroll around in.
We have been perpetual nomads since 2003 – sailing, camping, RVing, house and pet sitting – and are currently roaming about South America in a truck camper with our rescue dog, Maya. As lifetime adventurers, we are self-employed and maintain a tight budget. This blog is about all that – and more – to inspire a life less ordinary. Don’t dream but do! 🙂
