Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Nomad Life (page 1 of 16)

Five Days on Easter Island – The Perfect 50th Birthday Present

When I realized early last year that I would turn 50 in 2025, I promised myself to do something special for this milestone occasion. But I had no idea what this would be yet. Because of our flexible lifestyle and undetermined schedules, who knew where we would end up in November? It could be Brazil. Or Chile. Or back in Colombia.

Once we secured buyers for Thirsty Bella, whom we would meet in Santiago de Chile at the beginning of December, my excitement for a destination grew. I’d always wanted to visit Rapa Nui (Easter Island), which belongs to Chile. Mark and I actually had plans for a week-long vacation there in 2014, when we were sailing in French Polynesia. But fate had something much less fun and more impactful in mind twelve years ago. So, we hopped on a plane to the US instead of Rapa Nui to deal with Mark’s health.

Sunrise on Rapa Nui/Easter Island

This magical destination had always been in the back of my mind. Now that I’d be in the capital of Chile, the only place left with regular flights to Hanga Roa, the main town of Easter Island, it was the perfect time to book this trip. Unfortunately, prices for everything—from hostel rooms to flights to the national park fee—had gone up immensely since the pandemic. I sucked it up, yet tried to keep my five-day excursion as cheaply as possible.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

With only one personal item (Latam Airlines charges extra for carry-on bags as well), I took a cab to the airport early on November 16th and hopped on a plane for five hours. This domestic flight was comfortable and smooth. There was entertainment and—to my surprise—a meal was included. When exiting the plane, passengers were welcomed with Polynesian drumming and dancing. I felt immediately transported back to the South Pacific of our sailing days. It felt great! I had missed the islands and the culture.

To save money, I walked the half hour—a bit overdressed—from the airport to my hostel, enjoyed the views of the ocean and some old and newer statues along the shoreline, and was settled by 2pm, ready for my solo adventure.

That first afternoon, I had hoped to book a “full” island tour, buy my mandatory national park ticket, inquire about activities, and get my bearings. But because it was Sunday, I couldn’t do much more than explore the town of Hanga Roa and enjoy my first sunset over the moai of Ahu Tahai.

I had three full days to take in the sights of Easter Island. My return flight would leave on the afternoon of day five. It seemed like plenty of time.

On Monday, my plan was to hike along the northern shore and end up at a couple of national park sites to peek at. I had bought my pass for $102 (which had gone up that month from $75 and the bad exchange rate with the US$ made it even more expensive), but most of the sites are only accessible with a guide. Another change since Covid.

Nevertheless, I enjoyed strolling over the bluffs and the volcanic rocks, following horse trails, and spotting the “sunset statues” by day, without the crowds. Statues on the island were erected to honor the (affluent) deceased and later in history, (mass) burials took place underneath the platforms.

Continuing along the shoreline, I passed another single moai and eventually, I walked through a gate where I was immediately yelled at and kicked out by a ranger. Luckily, a more friendly local gave me a ride back to the village.

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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – December 2025 (Chile & USA)

 

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

Note: This is most likely the last monthly expense report from us. We don’t seem to be able to stick to our $1,300 – $1,500 budget anymore, Mark doesn’t think anyone is interested in our numbers, these posts overlap with my normal updates, and we are not overlanding or traveling at the moment. I will still publish our yearly report later this month or in early February, depending on my spare time.

In December, Mark, Maya, and I spent (the last) five days in our ex-home on wheels, Thirsty Bella and rented a small apartment for three weeks in Santiago de Chile. We slept the last five nights of 2025 in two different beds in the US state of Massachusetts, where we still are now.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

It was an interesting, expensive, and not so ordinary month for us. If this resembles our life without a camper, we could never afford doing it full-time! The biggest culprit was an unexpected expense regarding Maya, however.

Accommodation was the highest category, because we stayed in Chile’s capital after selling our truck camper and decided to finish our South American adventure in an “upscale” Airbnb for three weeks. By “upscale” I mean that we picked a desirable neighborhood and an apartment with air conditioning and decent facilities.

I’ll report on that time later, but $785 went to this apartment living experience, which seems to be the going rate for this kind of place, unless you rent directly from locals without going through Airbnb or property managers.

We also stayed at a pay campground in the beginning of the month to get our camper ready and sparkling clean to be toured by and handed over to the new buyers. We spent $50 for three nights at Las Varas Campground in Santiago de Chile. Our nights camped in the capital’s Providencia neighborhood were free.

Our free urban camping spot in Santiago de Chile

A big shock arrived six days before we were due to depart the city, country, and continent by plane. That morning, I hugged Maya and she yelped. I didn’t think too much about it. A couple of hours later, when she lifted her head after resting, she yelped louder and this concerned us. Initially, we thought the pain came from a front leg—which had happened before but to a lesser extent—but as time progressed, the issue seemed to be her neck.

In the afternoon, the pain—and her cries—intensified, so we took her to a nearby vet in 95-degree weather. He said he couldn’t help us and he referred us to a more specialized and equipped clinic. We walked back home, researched other vets, and made an appointment for the following morning, a Saturday.

By evening, Maya’s screams broke our hearts, and made us panic, so we texted the vet if we could see her that night instead of the following morning. She gave us a 9pm appointment. Luckily, it was much cooler to walk at that time of the day.

After two hours of waiting, a checkup, chats in Spanish, blood work, X-rays, two shots of pain medication, a box of steroids, a prescription for two more drugs, a follow-up appointment for Christmas Eve, and a bill of $300, we left at 11pm.

The balance of the $472 we spent on vets in December went to the follow-up visit with this doctor, a previous vet visit to get another health certificate for Maya (right before her injury) to be able to fly, and a check-up visit in the US to figure out the real deal with our dog.

We also spent $90 on dog food—$30 for a 5.5kg one in Santiago and $60 for her usual 13kg bag of salmon kibble in the US. I bought pee pads for her ($2), just in case, because of a reaction to all the drugs. And, this was the most painful and stupid part, financially, we had to pay $66 for health certificates to be able to export our dog from Chile, which was pointless! The US didn’t require any permits or fees from us.

I’m sure you are wondering what was wrong with Maya, so I’ll quickly summarize. The vet in Chile said Maya had degenerative vertebrae disks that were inflamed and hurting, an old age thing. She was not allowed to exercise and move much that last week (which made us change many plans). The drugs caused her a lot of thirst and therefore needing pee breaks every two hours, and also gave her worrisome diarrhea, to be eased with an exclusively salmon diet. Then, more drugs to stop the diarrhea. It was a mess. And all this mere days before our flight. Talk about stressful!

At the vet in Massachusetts, we learned (for another $100) that she probably just had a sore neck from sleeping wrong on it. Good news but at a high price tag. While it might be hard to believe, this was actually the very first time in seven years (!) that Maya required a vet visit. All other visits have been related to paperwork and annual vaccinations.

Moving on. Our grocery bill was not too high, despite two expensive factors: Maya had to eat pounds of salmon (which probably cost us about $50) and we brought an extensive cheese, meat, and crackers platter to a New Year’s Eve party in Massachusetts ($80). We also splurged on a few goodies for ourselves while at the Airbnb.

What made this category on par with other months is that we had to “get rid of” all our food before leaving Santiago, so we cooked a lot of our own meals and only bought the bare minimums, apart from an exuberant delayed Thanksgiving meal. 🙂

Another unexpected expense was the cost—and hassle—of a new tire. When washing the car, Mark noticed a gash in one of our back tires. If we were to keep the camper, he would play it safe and replace the tire. So, we did the same for the new owners. That $166 was our last challenge and cost for Thirsty Bella.

The alcohol category was high at $127. We drank less than usual at the Airbnb, but made up for that—well, the spending not the drinking, since we got sick—for that same New Year’s Eve party and visit to friends.

Mark and I had plans to splurge on dinners out  while staying at the apartment in Santiago, especially that last week when we would have eaten most of our food, but Maya’s injury prevented that. So, we only spent $97, all in Chile.

We went out for ramen when still living in the camper and ordered a pizza (a story in itself), grilled chicken, and take-out hamburgers when in the apartment. I joined friends for a planned vegan lunch, while Mark stayed home with Maya.

To show their appreciation for the work we did on Thirsty Bella, for our help and transparency during the handover process, and maybe because they liked us as well, the new buyers of our camper – Marjolein and Max – treated us to a nice dinner at our favorite (French) restaurant in Santiago, Le Bistro de Gaetan. We had a very nice evening with a bit too much to drink. 😊

Our $82 transportation costs cover a car rental deposit in Portugal, two Uber rides to get to the Airbnb and to the airport with all our belongings, and two roundtrip metro rides for me to arrange Maya’s international health permit, while Mark stayed home with her.

Now that we are back in the US, it is time to order some essentials online. But not too many since we have no place to store anything. One of Mark’s “holy” Levi’s jeans got replaced with new ones (again) at a $27 eBay bargain price and he’s on the lookout for a second pair.

And we stocked up on strong dental floss for $8, since we are picky about that. These two containers hold a total of 400 yards/meters, so should last a while!

Before everything went downhill in Santiago, Mark and I stopped for Peruvian Pisco sour drinks on one of our walks with Maya. It was a tasty treat and it made us feel happy and relaxed to just stop and sit down for a cocktail, which is not our usual style, but which we should do more often.

Since I report on all our expenses, I’ll finish with an eBook I bought for $1. I’d like to also mention that our laundry was totally free in December, because our Airbnb had a washer/dryer combo, which was awesome!!!

Our own washer/dryer!

So, last month’s total was way above average (by $1,000!) at $2,300. We had a lot of “extras” going on but, without a camper in which we slept 99% of the time for free, our budget has to go up, unless we crash at family members’ places or overstay our welcome with friends. For the time being, we expect to spend about $1,000 on monthly rentals in Europe, interspersed with staying at friends’ places and my parents’ tiny house.

Happy budgeting in 2026!

December 2025 Overview:

Accommodation (Airbnb:$785; camping: $50):

Dog (vets: $472; food: $90; permits: $66; supplies: $2):

Groceries:

Car (new tire):

Alcohol:

Dining out:

Transportation (rental deposit: $39; Ubers: $37; metro: $6):

Clothing (jeans Mark):

Household (dental floss):

Drinking out:

Entertainment:

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$835

$629

$321

$166

$127

$97

$82

$27

$8

$7

$1

$0

———

$ 2,300

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: My five-day excursion to Easter Island (finally)!

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Happy New Year & A Quick Update

The first day of the year starts off cold!

I know I’m late, but I have good excuses. 🙂

Mark, Maya, and I wish you all a fantastic 2026, during which all your desires, intentions, relationships, and health work out exactly as you want them to be!

Thank you for following along with our adventures and for being an active part of this blog. I continue to appreciate every comment, reaction, suggestion, and dialogue on Roaming About and I truly cherish the friendships I have made here. If we haven’t already, maybe 2026 is the year we will meet in person!

Winter walk – slippery at times – in Uxbridge, Massachusetts

So, what has been going on and why have I been quiet on this site for almost three weeks? The short answer is that we’ve been busy, stressed, and sick. Kind of in that order. As a matter of fact, Mark, his mom, and I are still battling a nasty flu that has us surviving on Tylenol and cough drops for ten days so far. It’s not fun, especially when needing to take care of family members at the same time.

My mother-in law’s condo in Newburyport, where we are spending most of our four weeks back in Massachusetts. Our room is located on the front corner of the second floor.

My last post documented our final days in our truck camper Thirsty Bella, in Chile. This was followed by three weeks at an Airbnb in its capital Santiago, where we were supposed to rest up. It might not come as a surprise that this didn’t happen and in addition, we had worries about a dog in pain. On Christmas Day, we flew to the US. We were welcomed by snow, icy temperatures, and a nasty virus.

Maya posing in the snow

As I try to catch up on blog writing the coming days, you will learn more about all these events. I’ll start with our expense report for December 2025, which also acts as a monthly overview. Then, I plan to finally post about my five-day trip to Easter Island. This will be followed by regular posts about what we have been up to, until we find a new home on wheels for our upcoming European adventures.

Thanks again for continuing to follow along and, please, stay tuned!

The Last Six Weeks in Our Truck Camper, “Thirsty Bella”, in Central Chile

In October, Mark, Maya, and I swapped Paraguay for Chile for two reasons: to pursue a Vario van for our next adventure and to be able to sell our own Thirsty Bella easier, since Central Chile is the starting point for many overlanders. Flights to Santiago are more affordable than elsewhere in South America, gear is easily available in a plethora of well-equipped stores, and there are companies selling cars to foreigners. Since our car was registered in the US, the transfer to a new owner would be easy, regardless.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

After long days of driving across Argentina, we arrived in Santiago, Chile’s capital, for the second time. We had fond memories of urban camping by Parque Metropolitano, which we’d hoped would become our base soon. We only stayed one night, to confirm if this was still an attractive overnight spot (it was), to fix our back window before the next rain, and to visit Suzie Santiago CTW’s office within walking distance. We would hire them to do the paperwork if we were to buy a Chilean Vario. It was all part of our months of research, gathering data, and interacting with potential service providers.

We also checked out Suzie Santiago’s workshop on the outskirts of the city and spent one night at a noisy truck stop before heading south towards Pichilemu, where we would set eyes on a Vario van that had a horrible conversion done to it.

The idea was to confirm everything we were told by the owner—the vehicle was supposed to be in “perfect condition”—and make an offer. Then, we’d start the registration process in our name, bring the van to Paraguay to have it built out by a factory we’d visited and agreed on a quote with, and eventually ship it to Europe for the next chapter in our lives.

Since we couldn’t visit this Vario until Monday, we spent the weekend at a nice wild camping spot on a bluff in Navidad, with a pretty view over the ocean and good walks for Maya. Despite this being our favorite spot in a while, we didn’t return because of the strong onshore breezes, covering our camper with salt water. Since Mark had recently repainted our ladder and jacks, he didn’t want corrosion to return before the sale of our camper.

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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – November 2025 (Chile)

 

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

In November, Mark, Maya, and I drove short distances to check out a couple of Vario vans in Central Chile and to run errands, but we mostly waited around in our home on wheels, Thirsty Bella, until her new owners showed up. And I made a “little side trip”!

Our expenses were all but usual, with some big hitters, namely my five-day birthday escape to Rapa Nui (Easter Island), buying two one-way flights from Santiago, Chile, to Boston, USA, and a pricey Airbnb for our last three weeks on the continent. I will share that final expense in the December 2025 report.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Therefore, the highest category in November was travel ($1,050), which accounted for those plane tickets to and from Rapa Nui ($566) for me and the one-way flights to the US for Mark and me ($484 – we used points for the other half of the cost).

Posing by a group of moai at the quarry site

A few weeks after booking our US plane tickets, the price dropped by $250, so we dealt with the headache, frustration, stress, and time sink of eventually receiving credit back and rebooking the same flights. Since these are airline points, they didn’t make this expense cheaper, but we now have extra credit for future flights. That’s how we stay busy!

The grocery category was average at $354. We started to finish off staples, knowing that we’d move out of Bella at the beginning of December. Meals were mostly planned around “getting rid” of stuff.

Finally, our car was not the priciest item of the month. Our drive to Pichilemu from the capital was the furthest we ventured and, of course, we had to return, run errands, and leave enough gasoline for the next owners.

We also spent $22 on Chilean tolls and $18 on a 24V Mercedes Vario OBD adapter that we never used. We have our own 12V scanner, but this didn’t fit into the console of the grey Vario, so we managed to order a 24V adapter for our scanner with the help of friendly locals to check the red Vario we planned to pursue but eventually never did. Unfortunately, it’s impossible for foreigners to order parts online on most websites due to not having a RUT (local identity number), a local credit card, and a local phone number.

The $240 entertainment price tag was mostly mine, apart from a cable car ride for our trio in Parque Metropolitano in Santiago on my birthday ($7). I also bought a discounted eBook written by an author friend ($1).

The national park pass on Easter Island went up from $75 to $102 right before I arrived, and I booked three tours with the rest of the money in this category. While initially appalled at the high entrance fee required to access most of the island, I thought it was all worth it in the end. I will post a separate blog about this magical experience.

Likewise, the close to $200 “we” paid for accommodation went to my four hostel nights in Hanga Roa, the capital of the island and its only town. It was expensive for what it was. I slept in a private room with a shared bathroom.

Trying to save money on my “little side trip,” I only ate out once for about $15. The rest of our dining out category went to glorious French food on my actual birthday and a few other restaurant meals, like a local lunch and take-out Chinese.

Almost all of our meals were prepared at home.

I was early this year with my Christmas gifts! As always, I created personalized photo calendars for my closest family members and managed to get these to them a month early, because I had time and our best group shots of 2025 had been collected already. Plus, I had no idea what December would bring…

At $64, our monthly Starlink subscription went up again with the Argentinian peso. Half of this amount is paid by us and the other half by our freelancing business. Because we failed to top up our propane tank in Argentina before crossing into Chile and we wanted to leave a full bottle for the new owners, we made the effort to get it filled at a professional outfit in Santiago. It was the most expensive, but the most efficient propane fill on the entire continent! Potable water top-ups were free as usual.

Since we had to empty our camper cabinets, including our alcohol stash, we only spent $40 on this category in November. No complaints here!

I had forgotten to incorporate transportation to and from the airports in my Easter Island trip budget, so I had to skimp in other areas (like dining out). I used an InDrive taxi ($14) to reach the international airport of Santiago when I left and a shared van ($10) upon my return.

Waiting for an hour at the airport to take a shared van back home

On the island itself, I walked the 30 minutes from the airport to my hostel (I only brought a small backpack as a free personal item) and lucked out with a free ride back from the owner because he needed to pick up paying guests at the small airport building before I left.

I wanted to buy a few small souvenirs ($16) on Rapa Nui, because it is such a special place, and Mark needed more allergy medicine and a fresh asthma inhaler ($6) while in Santiago. These made up the miscellaneous category.

The drinking out category shows zero, because the only time we enjoyed a few cocktails at a restaurant was on my birthday and they were covered by my best friend Rosie. Thank you!

We boondocked (wild camped for free) the entire month and didn’t spend money on laundry, because I did a few loads by hand in the beginning of November and we saved the dirty clothes and linen from the second half of the month to wash at our Airbnb, which came with a machine.

And that almost concludes 2025. It was a very expensive month, but if you consider that $1,068 of our total of $2,487 went to my five-day vacation on Easter Island and another $484 was spent on plane tickets, November was actually quite cheap at just $935 of normal living expenses. We shall see what the future brings…

November 2025 Overview:

Travel (plane tickets to Easter Island and Boston, MA):

Groceries:

Car  (fuel: $237; tolls: $22; Vario part: $18):

Entertainment:

Accommodation:

Dining out:

Gifts:

Utilities (Internet: $32; propane: $30):

Alcohol:

Transportation (airport taxis Liesbet):

Miscellaneous (souvenirs):

Medical:

Drinking out:

Laundry:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$1,050

$354

$278

$240

$198

$150

$69

$62

$40

$24

$16

$6

$0

$0

$0

———

$ 2,487

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Our last month of Chilean and South American travels in Thirsty Bella!

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Homeless at Fifty – Our Truck Camper, Thirsty Bella, Has Sold!

It is official, our home on wheels for three-and-a-half years (three of which in South America) has been sold to a Dutch couple, ready for their own adventures on this continent.

Old and new owners of the Cow Camper

About five weeks ago, they contacted us after seeing the paid ad for our camper on an international website for overlanding rigs. It turned out to be the best $40 we spent this year!

Max and Marjolein had been looking for the perfect camper in which to travel the world after quitting their successful careers. When they spotted Bella on the Expedition Meister platform, they knew it was meant to be. They love cows!

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

A two-hour video call in Pichilemu followed and – to our surprise – by the end of that virtual tour they made us an offer and we accepted. After waiting for a buyer for three months, things turned positive and imminent all of a sudden. They paid a deposit to hold the camper for them (we did have another interested party soon after) and excitedly updated us of their prep and plans to come to South America for the foreseeable future.

For us, those last five weeks were a waiting, researching, preparing, planning, pursuing local Vario vans, fixing, packing, cleaning, and stressing game.

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Our Crazy Mercedes Vario Idea in Chile – A Waste of Time?

Warning: This is a summarized yet long story about what we have really been doing the last four months.

I’m trying to remember when this crazy idea first emerged. At least six months ago, Mark was researching campers in Europe, since we thought/think this will be our new overlanding location. He must have stumbled upon a Mercedes Vario campervan, thought it looked cool and roomy, remembered our German friends Sabine and Michael having one, and focused his research on the 4×4 kind, only to discover that in Europe you need a special driver’s license for this “more truck than van” vehicle, prices wavered around a steep US$100,000, and there are many rules regarding registration, yearly inspections, insurance, and so on.

Driver’s side view of a Vario

It seemed like the Vario idea dead-ended right there. But on June 3rd (I checked my diary), an available 4×4 Vario appeared on the South America Overlanding Facebook page. There were only two problems: it was for sale in Peru with Peruvian plates and it was not converted yet. We inquired at a shop in Uruguay — the only place in South America we knew about — about how much it would cost to build out a van. More research followed and from the moment we realized that a vehicle can only leave Peru if it is owned by a Peruvian resident and that a new build would cost close to US$90,000, the idea was discarded again.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Fast forward to sometime in August when Mark discovered that Chile had imported hundreds of 4WD Vario vans from Europe to use in the mines as passenger transportation vehicles. Another problem arose: these vans had been well used and came with a bus door instead of a passenger door. Replacing that with an RV door would prove almost impossible, let alone dealing with the paperwork, the language, and other crazy logistics.

Soon after, Mark had a revelation. For months, he’d known about a Vario van that had been built out by a Chilean and had been for sale for a couple of years. It was located along the Chilean coast, four hours south of Santiago, but he hadn’t been interested because the camper section was poorly built and unattractive.

His revelation was this: it had a normal door and two seats in the cab, it was already registered as a camper (as opposed to a company vehicle), and becoming the owner of a new vehicle in Chile was straightforward and popular. It’s why many new overlanders buy a car or camper in Santiago to start their South American overland travels. Why not buy this crappy camper, gut it, and rebuild the living space from scratch?

Passenger side view of the Pichilemu Vario camper – with a normal door

By then, we had found out that there was a company in Santiago — Suzie Santiago CTW — that built out vans for a much better rate — but inferior quality — than the expensive shop in Uruguay. More research and communications followed with companies regarding the build and the paperwork. So many months of work and focus went into this pursuit! It’s pretty much all we did during our five weeks in Paraguay. We even drew up the perfect layout. Fun!

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A Whirlwind Drive through Argentina 

In the middle of September, Mark, Maya, and I returned to Paraguay without a deadline. We would use this landlocked country as a base during the spring until it turned unbearably hot or until we found a buyer for our camper. Neither had happened when we decided to leave.

Yes, two days each week were miserably hot, but it was still manageable. No buyer had appeared, but we felt Chile would be a better location for any prospective buyer to start their journey on this continent. The other reason we changed countries has to do with a concept that’s been emerging over the last few months. I can’t elaborate on that (yet) since all our attempts to reach this goal have been failing so far. But, if you’ve read our previous expense report “between the lines,” you might have gotten a hint about this idea.

Leaving Paraguay at night

Once we decided to head back to Chile — on the opposite side of the continent — we felt an urge to do this as quickly as possible. Like I mentioned in a previous blog: first, we wanted to eat sushi one more time. Over dinner, skipping an alcoholic drink, we decided to cross the border into Argentina that very same evening. We knew of a good camp spot in Posadas on the other side and hoped for a quick and easy crossing that late in the day. It was the middle of October.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Border officials were friendly, passports were checked, our Paraguayan TIP (temporary import permit) for the truck was returned and an Argentinian one obtained, and we had to back out of a narrow lane, because no height limit was indicated for a low arch up ahead…

Then, just when we thought all was fine and nobody had asked about Maya, we were told to exit the car and our camper was scanned by a massive machine! It was loud and intimidating.

Afterwards, the official stepped out of the giant scanner with our paperwork with only one question: “Do you have a dog?” Our “yes” was answered with only a nod. There’s no hiding from this futuristic machine! Luckily, people had told us earlier that nobody checks dog paperwork at this particular post.

After one short night in Posadas, we hit the road in an attempt to spend as little time as possible in Argentina. There are a few reasons why we don’t like this country, but I won’t get into that now. Our first day was productive, despite the rain and the mix of road conditions with smooth pavement in the morning and uneven patches, dips, grooves, and bumps in the afternoon. We ended up at a familiar camp spot but had to navigate slippery mud to get there.

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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – October 2025 (Paraguay & Argentina)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

In October, Mark, Maya, and I covered long distances from Paraguay back to Chile in our home on wheels, Thirsty Bella.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in photo galleries to read their captions.)

When you’re on a tight budget, every unexpected expense disappoints. But when money gets wasted just because you are in the wrong place at the wrong time, it hurts. We had a few of those unfortunate occurrences last month.

Our October car expense — including the fuel cost — matched the amount of September and for the same reason: we drove a lot! As a matter of fact, we basically crossed the South American continent from east to west again, to end up at the Chilean coast 1,500 miles (2,300km) further.

Apart from gasoline ($625), we spent money on tolls, liability insurance for Argentina (one month) and Chile (six months), car soap, and a parts manual.

At $410, our grocery bill was higher than usual, but this is understandable. I mentioned in a previous post that one of the highlights of Paraguay (Hohenau in particular) is the availability of German goodies, like incredible bread, sweets, and cured meats. That’s where the extra food money went!

Some of our unexpected expenses became part of the miscellaneous category: a hefty fine in the Mendoza province ($175), hiring a mechanic ($90) to check out a van we were curious about (a failure), and a paid ad on an international vehicle website to try and sell Bella ($34).

Let me give you some background about the painful fine. In South America, EVERYBODY passes slow trucks — and us — over a solid yellow (or white) line. Everywhere and all the time. Even when it’s not safe. We’ve done it as well, but always in a safe manner.

On this particular occasion, the road was clear, straight, and slightly uphill. We’d already had a crappy day due to the usual challenges trying to get things done in a third-world country, and Mark passed a slow truck driver over the solid yellow line. At the top of the hill… you guessed it. A police car was waiting and an officer stopped us. We felt like they were targeting tourists, but remained friendly. We pleaded, yet couldn’t talk ourselves out of a fine. They did not try to get a bribe. This was all legitimate but unfortunate and hypocritical.

Pulled over once we started enjoying the scenery

The officer in charge wrote us a ticket with a fine to be paid online. We had two options: pay the discounted fee of $175 within the next three business days, or $320 afterward. The cop returned Mark’s driver’s license and after an hour, we went our way again. We were leaving the country the following morning and we did not intend to pay this fine. After a lot of research, we learned that this would likely never hurt us. Foreigners rarely pay fines.

Getting our first ever fine

And then we realized that whoever would next own Bella might visit Mendoza and drive back into Argentina. And then our conscience started acting up. We didn’t want anyone else potentially getting in trouble for our misfortune, disappointment, and stubbornness. So, we paid up before the rate increased. Sigh.

We decided to pay our steep fine.

We usually don’t stay in pay campgrounds, but we needed a break from driving and wanted to sit still for a while, so the $160 we paid for camping was planned. We mostly enjoyed our three weeks at the Manantial Campground in Paraguay and would have stayed longer if it wasn’t for the heat, bugs, and more pressing matters calling us back to Chile.

Home for three weeks at Camping Manantial – We did move twice a week!

The rest of the month, we camped for free.

Mark and I splurged on dinners out in October because we were in affordable and multi-cultural Paraguay and had the company of friends. For the first sushi round in Encarnación, Larry chipped in more than his fair share, our first pizza meal was a treat from Jon and Heather, and Larry took Mark out once as well. Since I had a migraine that evening, they brought me back a take-out plate.

We returned for Japanese and Italian cuisines on our own dime and I had a $3 Grido ice cream in Argentina. That had been a long while.

Most of our dinners were cooked at home, as always.

And our friends Abigail and Richie spoiled us on our one-night stopover at their property in Mendoza with a fantastic and extensive dinner!

Our alcohol budget hovered around $70 as usual, which isn’t bad considering we spent a couple of weeks with friends. But I was sick a bunch, so skipped out on the wine often.

We don’t usually spend money on household supplies, but we wanted a bread knife to cut all those fabulous German breads, bought bungee cords and a new frying pan, and really needed new camping chairs after being without for weeks. Our old $6 ones from Peru finally ripped enough that Mark fell through, and they became unusable.

A painful $40 went to dog paperwork. Painful for two reasons: these permits are superfluous, and the vet made an expensive mistake. Maya always has all her vaccinations and papers in order, but border crossings in Latin America require verification of our paperwork, first by an accredited veterinarian and again by the agriculture department. With new permits and costs involved.

A new health certificate is created first by the vet and then copied over by Senasa. In Mendoza, the vet left two fields blank. This led to us going to Senasa two days in a row to apply, returning to the vet (all on foot, 45 minutes apart), and needing the international permit quicker, resulting in higher fees. FYI: We have gone through this process about six times, just in Argentina.

We treated our friends to drinks at a beach bar and at the pizzeria-brewery, but most of the time we hung out for happy hours at the campground.

The utilities category comprises our monthly Starlink internet subscription ($30 — the other half is paid by our business) and only $3 for propane. We wished this number was higher since we aspired to top up our tank in Argentina before crossing the border into Chile, where propane fills are more challenging. Unfortunately, the company only managed to add 1 kg to our tank after an hour of trying, so we gave up and moved on. Filling up with water was easy and free.

We bought more caulk, masking tape, glue, and scrap wood for leveling boards for the camper, and champagne for Jon’s birthday. We dropped two loads of laundry off at someone’s home in Hohenau, and the friendly lady returned our clothes clean and a tad too fragrant. The price was right at only $9. We love Paraguay!

And the last expense went to a decongestant for me after suffering from sinus issues for ten days. This most recent illness took a long time to resolve.

It wasn’t a great month financially, as we almost crossed the $2,000 threshold. Since our future is up in the air right now and we have no plans, who knows what November and December will bring for the wallet…

October 2025 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $625; tolls: $26; maint.: $23; ins.: $22):

Groceries:

Miscellaneous:

Camping:

Dining out:

Alcohol:

Household supplies:

Dog:

Drinking out:

Utilities (Internet: $29; propane: $3):

Camper:

Gifts:

Laundry:

Medical:

 

TOTAL:

 

$696

$410

$296

$161

$151

$71

$52

$40

$34

$32

$20

$13

$9

$8

———

$ 1,993

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: A whirlwind drive through Argentina!

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Returning to Paraguay – The Interlude

This is more of a status update than an exciting blog post…

When we discovered that I couldn’t get a 90-day extension to stay the full six months in Brazil as a Belgian—hoping we’d sell our camper by then—we needed a new plan. The closest border was Paraguay. Having great memories from our previous visit, we decided to make it our South American base for a while, at least until the heat chased us off or a buyer popped up for Bella.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Tacuru Pucu, Hernandarias

After crossing the border in hectic Ciudad del Este on September 11, Mark, Maya, and I returned to the free Tacuru Pucu campground, managed by the Itaipu Dam organization. Just like five months earlier, we stayed the allowed 14 days, but the grounds and facilities had deteriorated further.

Some of the electricity and water hookups were broken, the WiFi worked intermittently, and none of the hot showers functioned anymore. Most days, it was hot enough to shower with cold water anyway—or we could use our own shower and refill the tank with potable water. Maya was only allowed in a restricted area, so long walks were out of the question.

Despite the bugs and the heat, we enjoyed a much-needed break. Our favorite amenity remained the covered palapa, where we could do hand laundry, eat at the picnic table, chat with new and familiar faces (including Larry, who stopped by briefly), and swing in our hammock. I even started reading a book again!

Those two weeks filled up fast with cleaning nearly everything in and on the camper, cooking delicious meals, writing, catching up on Brazil blog posts, and setting up a new computer after more files got corrupted on my ancient laptop. Now, I’m getting used to two new-to-me devices.

I also gave my published book some long-overdue attention and started experimenting with a virtual audiobook. After a few chapters, I abandoned the idea—Amazon’s beta version wasn’t ready for prime time. Meanwhile, Mark repaired our water pump after an entertaining ride to the free zone with a Colombian, a Cuban, and a Paraguayan.

Nights were restless. Each blistering, humid day seemed to culminate in a violent storm, leaving us with a couple of chilly mornings before the heat built again. Maya was terrified of the thunder and lightning, and fireworks or gunfire from a nearby military base didn’t help either.

Mark was sick for a few days as well; a bummer. When it was too hot to do anything but sit in the shade of our palapa, we fantasized and talked about the next chapter in our lives, after our camper sells.

Ñacunday Falls

On our way to Hohenau to revisit Manantial Campground, we stopped for a night at Ñacunday Falls. Reaching the campsite deep in the jungle required trimming branches, brushing past foliage, and careful maneuvering to get level, but the peace was worth it.

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