We had heard good things about it – hot springs, hiking, off the beaten track. We had seen the green blot on maps – including the words “cliff dwellings” in small print. We’d driven south of it multiple times, crossing the country, not having time for a detour, thinking it would take ages on dirt roads to get there.
Until this fall. When we left Massachusetts in our new set-up, Mark wanted to stop in the Badlands of South Dakota and I was finally going to find Gila National Forest’s treasures in New Mexico. We made it happen in early November of this year. Unfortunately, we only had three nights to spare in this expansive area. Fortunately, we have the means to return.
(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)
In true Liesbet and Mark fashion, we had no idea what to expect. There were the recommendations of friends and the attraction of the map, but that was the extent of our knowledge about Gila. We didn’t research and we didn’t look at photos ahead of time. This way, we are open-minded and malleable. It allows for genuine surprises and discovering new-to-us treasures. It avoids expectations and disappointments.
Cebolla Mesa
When we entered New Mexico, right across the border from Colorado, we stopped at a remote but free campground on Cebolla Mesa for a couple of nights. To our shock, we found ourselves on the edge of a deep canyon, carved out by the Rio Grande. Mark and Maya braved the steep 2.6 mile R/T descend and ascent (770ft elevation gain). I turned back after a few switchbacks, fearing a massive headache from the exertion.
Black Rock Hot Springs
Another small detour brought us to the Black Rock Hot Springs, also along the Rio Grande. These natural pools are free but popular. We had them to ourselves for all but one minute. I unsuspectingly was in the middle of changing into my bathing suit when other tourists hiked down the path. Mark and I have been spoiled with solitude.
After quick stops in Santa Fe (to visit a couple we previously house sat for) and Albuquerque (to fix our camper platform for the second time), we finally made it to Gila National Forest. The road leading to the highlights of the park is slow, but – to my surprise – completely paved. We found ourselves in the mountains at a relatively high elevation (6,000ft). Also a surprise.
Gila NF Camping
The free campground we had picked in iOverlander had plenty of open sites, but only two that would fit us – the others required passing under low tree branches. The spot we selected was spacious, sunny enough for the solar panels, and along a brook with a little rapid to soothe our ears.
Gila NF cliff dwellings
After a quick briefing by a ranger at the beginning of the one-mile trail in this national monument, we were sent on our way, along a boardwalk, path, and many steps up towards the cliff.
There they were! Quite the discovery.
Not as impressive or extensive as Mesa Verde National Park, but these ones are relatively unknown, not overrun, free, and – the best thing – allow visitors to explore the rooms without booking a tour!
For thousands of years, different nomadic groups sheltered in these caves, but it was the Mongollon Pueblo peoples who modified and inhabited the dwellings for a few decades. Archaeologists have identified 46 rooms in the five caves along Cliff Dweller Canyon, and believe they were occupied by 10 to 15 families. Let’s hope visitors remain respectful of this site and continue to preserve these 700-year-old structures.
Gila NF river hike
The area around the Gila Visitor Center teems with trails, hot springs, and artifacts. When we stopped to gather maps and info, after visiting the cliff dwellings, it was too late in the day to embark on an epic hike, so we checked out natural hot springs nearby – way too hot and shallow to enjoy – and took it easy at our lovely campsite.
On our second – and last – full day, we parked at the TJ Corral trailhead around 9am and set out on an 11-mile hike called Little Bear Canyon/Middle Fork Loop. This trail sports 36 river crossings, all along the last half of the trail. This meant getting our feet wet! It actually ended up being a fun activity, especially for Maya. Mark was a tad uncomfortable in his submerged and sloshing hiking shoes, but my close-toed Teva sandals were the perfect footwear for this endeavor.
We followed the ridge of a hill, traversed a slot canyon, gawked at impressive rock formations, and contemplated a three-mile side-trip to Jordan Falls – a quintessential and super attractive soaking pool and campsite among superb scenery.
Mark was the smart one – as usual. Just when I was about to get my feet wet for the first time in an attempt to add another 15 X 2 river crossings to our itinerary, Mark did the math. With the sun setting early (we had just lost another hour due to the end of daylight savings) and the slot canyon turning dark even quicker, we stuck to plan. I moped for a few minutes and then, we braced ourselves for our initial 36 river crossings!
Luckily, the daytime temperature was unusually warm for the time of year and a hot shower awaited in Temp. Unluckily, I forgot to switch my camera back to sunlight mode after turning the setting into the “shade” position, leading to not the greatest photos of the rock formations.
The three of us would have loved to stay longer, but we were meeting a friend in Benson, Arizona. We’d pushed out that date already a couple of times. Plus, there is no cell service/internet in the forest.
Silver City
Leaving this extensive, activity-rich area to the south, we passed through Silver City. “Wasn’t this on our list of potential places to live?” Mark asked. I checked my notebook; he remembered correctly… Over a year ago (remember my blog post about Bisbee, AZ?), he and I researched which towns in the US have perfect weather (summer and winter) for our warm-blooded bodies.
Ha! Well, none do, apart maybe from San Diego, which we could not in a million years afford or regions in Florida, where we never want to live. But our “try-out list” did contain a few mountain towns with a great vibe, affordable housing (back then), and relatively decent weather. So, we walked Maya around Silver City for an hour or so and marked it off our list. Bisbee might still be a contender, but at this point, we have pretty much decided that if we ever buy a little home, it will be abroad.
Have you ever heard of – or visited – Gila National Forest in New Mexico? Any other place I mention here?
Linked up with Natalie’s 50th Weekend Coffee Share. You can find her contribution of this week here.
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