Day One
We approach Badlands National Park mid-afternoon, after crossing the width of South Dakota. The burning question: do we buy the $80 annual National Park pass (what we usually have) or a 7-day ticket for $30? We’ve been doing without a pass for over a year. We are leaving the country soon. It’s nice to be covered “everywhere” and sometimes get discounts on camping, though. But, we usually camp for free anyway. If we have to spend another summer in the US (instead of heading to South America in 2022), we will need and use the pass… “We either lose $50 or we lose $30,” Mark says, “Your choice.” Life has become very expensive on the road. Eighty dollars is a lot of money. We buy the week-long entrance ticket.
That’s when we realize we didn’t even check the pet rules… A quick search online reveals that dogs are not allowed on ANY trails. As a matter of fact, they aren’t even allowed at the look-outs. Pets are only welcome to walk around in campgrounds and parking lots. Great! Did we just waste $30?
I go for a short walk. Mark is annoyed and takes Maya around the parking lot. We drive through a small part of the park to our first free campsite for the night, in Buffalo Gaps National Grassland. Much more dog-friendly!
We crest a little hill and pick a flat spot among smaller badland humps. Because of the underground (sticky clay and sand), you don’t want to park here during rain. Many cars and campers have gotten stuck here, doing just that. But, there is no rain in the forecast, so we should be fine!
We take Maya for a walk and then this happens…
Talk about a nasty storm cloud! We run home and beat the rain. Then, it pours until 2am. We worry all night about being stuck here by morning…
Day two
We get out! The wheels spin a few times, the truck camper slides sideways, but that 4WD sure comes in handy – for the first (but not the last!) time… Look at those mud-caked wheels! Other campers are stuck until the sun does its job.
We attempt two hikes (without Maya) – the first one brings us among the oddly-shaped sandstone features and reveals our first bighorn sheep.
The second one – a climb to the top of a tall mount – is too wet and muddy to be attempted. We carry on, to Maya’s pleasure. She doesn’t like to be left alone.
We drive the “loop road” and stop at several viewpoints. We sneak in a photo of Maya at one of them. Don’t tell anyone…
Did you know that the United States was split into two parts, many millions of years ago? We didn’t. The Badlands were under water back then.
We encounter quite a few bighorn sheep (with small horns) along the road. That’s a lot of white bums!
The badlands take on different forms and shapes throughout the region.
For our second night, we chose the most amazing location for a good night sleep. Again, this spot is found in the free iOverlander app and doesn’t cost us anything. But the day is not finished yet…
Are you wondering what Maya is looking at in the photo above?
This camping area comes with its own herd of bighorn sheep. They are gone when we take our dog for a long (off-leash) walk. We should have known better..
Maya’s nose goes 100mph. She has a strong prey drive and is fearless. But she listens pretty well. Then, this happens…
Maya sniffs something and takes off. That’s when we notice the herd, on a hill around the corner. Maya separates two sheep (the ones to the right) and chases after them, into the canyon! Once I spot our beloved, oh-so-sweet dog, she is running along a ledge a hundred feet below us. No photo of that.
We call her. She faces a steep wall, which the sheep ascended, and halts. Or, she hears us and listens. We will never know. She runs back, climbs out of the canyon to reach us, and remains on leash for the rest of our time in the Badlands.
It is windy, but we manage to sit outside with an exhausted dog and enjoy the view and sunset.
Day three
We leave the main area of the national park and follow a dirt road to Sage Creek Campground at its western edge. It is a short drive via a few more viewpoints, a herd of bison, and Prairie Dog Town.
The reason we want to spend a night at the free and primitive national park campground by Sage Creek is the promise of wildlife. The campground is established within a real prairie dog town! Those holes house rodents. Bison and coyotes frequent the area as well.
Upon our arrival at Sage Creek Campground, we realize Maya has to be on leash at all times.
Her senses go crazy… Thousands of prairie dogs abound and heaps of holes to sniff. She is rewarded with treats for good behavior (not pulling on her leash and ignoring all that activity). Which activity?
We take Maya for a walk, away from the rodents and into the hills, for some welcome exercise.
And then, it is time to relax…
Just being here and watching the animal world go by is incredible!
Here are some close-ups:
These are two of my favorite shots!
The bison walks by our home. We can see him from our bed. How cool is that? (Yes, there are a lot of flies too.) If I would have had my camera ready that evening, I could have fitted a buffalo, a prairie dog, and a coyote (and potentially Maya) in one frame!
Day four and five
Mark, Maya, and I have been very lucky with the pleasant fall weather. It couldn’t hold. The last two days, we sit out immense rain and wind. One more night at Sage Creek and the second night, after driving straight into wind gusts up to 40mph (this was a BAD decision), to another part of Buffalo Gap National Grassland. We move because we hope to find cell service (and therefore internet) in the Grassland. We have one bar and manage to catch up on things, but wonder if it was worth the stress, beating the camper up, awful fuel economy (7mpg!!), and staying in a less attractive spot. You learn by doing! 🙂
By the way, while it rains in our neck of the woods, it snows in the Black Hills, an hour further west. More about that in a future post!
Happy 73rd birthday to my dear dad (in Belgium)! xxx
Read about our nomadic lifestyle and eight-year sailing adventure (the good, the bad, and the ugly) in my travel memoir Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary. You can find more info about Plunge here.
This post is linked to Natalie’s Weekend Coffee Share #43. You can read her contribution of this week here.
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October 27, 2021 at 17:04
I imagine that must have been frustrating for you as a dog owner, but I’ve experienced so many irresponsible owners in parks and on trails (to say nothing about around my neighborhood) that I am relieved when dogs are restricted. It’s too bad that responsible owners are penalized but, for the sake of the welfare of the wildlife and protection of the fragile ecosystem, the parks have to make tough decisions. It looks like you had a great time anyway and saw lots of wildlife.
October 29, 2021 at 12:53
Hi Janis!
I totally agree with you regarding irresponsible dog owners. We always pick up after Maya in public places and are disgusted by people who don’t. In towns, I have often picked up dog shit that is not Maya’s. I also understand the pet rules in the National Parks and we abide by them. I do find it sad if none of the trails allow dogs. Usually, even in Yosemite or Yellowstone, there are a few lower-key and less-traveled paths that allow pets on leash. Honestly, I even understand that dogs aren’t allowed on any trails, especially when there is an abundance of wildlife. Where I had my issue in Badlands NP is that dogs weren’t even allowed on fenced-off boardwalks or concrete viewpoints…
This is one of the reasons (and the free camping) we like BLM and National Forest lands. Dogs can run off leash there and can be controlled by voice. That being said, having Maya chase the big horn sheep was awful and we need to anticipate this in the future by keeping her on leash where wildlife is present. This, of course, is not always possible, especially with the amount of deer in every forest.
October 29, 2021 at 19:33
That does seem odd that they were more restrictive than other national parks. I was going to suggest that maybe it was because of the buffalo (can you imagine if she had gone after one of those?!), but then I remembered that Yellowstone has lots of those too. Hmmm…
October 31, 2021 at 21:27
Yes, it doesn’t totally make sense, the different pet rules among national parks as, regardless, in national parks dogs have to be on leash and Maya always is there. She is only off leash on public lands, where this is allowed. Yet, animals still live there too, of course, so we are extra vigilant. And, most of the time, a chase is avoided… 🙂
October 27, 2021 at 17:35
Super cool. This place is on my bucket list….I really need to put it closer to the top.
October 29, 2021 at 12:54
Hi Pam! I hope you manage to visit the Badlands one day. It’s a fun and inspiring place for a few days of hiking, wildlife viewing, and camping.
October 27, 2021 at 19:23
In my early twenties I traveled in a Chevy sedan with a friend and her parents. The rock formations are my only recollection of this national park.
October 29, 2021 at 12:56
Hi Marian! I remember that cross country road trip you did with your friend and her parents from your book, Mennonite Daughter. Like you, I visited this park a while ago (about twenty years ago), but all I remembered were the prairie dogs. 🙂 So, we revisited with renewed gusto and appreciation. 🙂
October 27, 2021 at 19:44
Looks like a lot of fun – minus the scary situation of Maya chasing sheep into a canyon! We enjoyed the Badlands a number of years ago, but we didn’t spend as much time and see as much as you did. (The prairie dog town would be so fun to see!) Enjoy the rest of your western swing in the coming weeks!
October 29, 2021 at 12:59
We truly enjoyed being surrounded by prairie dogs, their cute faces, and their funny cries. Sage Creek Campground is highly recommended if you end up driving through again, with a tent or a small camper. Lexie, you can’t believe how nice it is to finally slow down. I keep thinking we are on a schedule to reach place A, finish project B, or get far enough south to get away from the cold weather. But, why? We are not in a rush and due to the pandemic, there seems to be no better or easier place to travel than the US right now…
October 28, 2021 at 04:33
Wow…wow again, just the name “Badlands “ already gives me goosebumps. Stunning photos and loving all your descriptions.
I am glad Maya was ok, although very frustrating to have to keep her on a leash, it is safer for her.
Definitely one for our list 😀
October 29, 2021 at 13:02
Hi Gilda! Maya is a sweet, cute, and super smart dog, but she has her issues. One of those is her prey drive. We have been training her every day – on different levels – but that one is hard to beat. She does have a gps collar and listens better than ever before, but it is still a risk to let her off leash when there are animals around. We try to anticipate and scan our surroundings constantly. Yesterday, for example, Mark spotted two deer in the prairie grass, so we put Maya on leash immediately. It took her another few minutes of (constrained) walking, before she sniffed and spotted the pair. Another chase averted! 🙂
October 28, 2021 at 14:35
I second Gilda’s “WOW!” What an incredible experience. Your photos and words brought this all to life. Glad that Maya was okay. She truly is a Rock Star Dog!
October 29, 2021 at 13:06
Haha, Donna. Shall I ask Maya for an autograph? She is Trouble, with a capital T. But, I doubt there is a happier dog anywhere in the world right now, the way she can roam the world, sniff new scents every single day, explore new places, hike in different terrains, rest in a queen-sized bed, and has 24/7 care and company. 🙂
October 28, 2021 at 16:23
Experiencing the animal world in a different part of the world would be a highlight for me. Pleased that you are both out enjoying your nomadic life with Maya.
October 29, 2021 at 13:08
I can totally relate with the joy in wildlife encounters, Suzanne. That is a highlight of my travels, for sure. On the water and overland. Like you, I can’t wait for international experiences again. Once this pandemic slows down or is fully integrated into our lives.
October 29, 2021 at 14:53
I think of the badlands of Dakota from the film Annie get your gun. I loved your photos and I am glad your dog got out of the canyon safetly.
October 31, 2021 at 21:06
Hi Anne! Thanks for swinging by and leaving a comment. I’m not familiar with that movie. Maybe because I grew up in Belgium? Is it a good one? If so, I’d like to check it out. We have a hard time finding good movies on Netflix these days… 🙂 I’m glad you enjoyed the photos. I take way too many and choosing the ones for my blogs is always a difficult task…
October 29, 2021 at 16:49
My heart was racing during the telling of Maya’s chasing of the sheep. I’m sure you were so relieved to have her back safely. The Canadian badlands in Alberta are similar and hoping one day you can explore them. Hope good weather follows your journey. We had our first snow today and it is snowing a great deal in the mountains.
October 31, 2021 at 21:10
Hi Sue! It looks like we beat you with the snow as we encountered quite a bit in the Black Hills of South Dakota about two weeks ago. One of my next SM posts will be about that. I’m running behind as always.
Yes, we were relieved to get Maya back. To be honest, she’s ran off (usually chasing a deer, wild pig, or groundhog) in the past and usually returns after we call loud and often enough. She can be stubborn. For this reason, we have a gps tracker on her collar, which has come in handy. We do need cell service for that, though.
Life is tricky with a prey-driven dog, but she needs a lot of exercise, so we have to find a balance. Traveling might just be easier with a cat called Bill. 🙂
October 29, 2021 at 18:43
Sounds like a wonderful adventure! The Badlands have been on my travel list for awhile–thanks for letting me travel vicariously through you.
October 31, 2021 at 21:25
Hi Janet! Thanks for swinging by and leaving a comments. I’m glad you enjoyed the Badlands virtually and I do hope you will make it there one day. But, there are so many other fantastic sites in the US, too. Our favorite area of the entire country is southern Utah. If we are still in North America by next spring, that’s where we are headed. 🙂
October 29, 2021 at 20:04
So cool that you visited the badlands and saw so much wildlife. I’m glad Maya didn’t get hurt chasing the sheep. I’ve seen similar wildlife, except bison and buffalo, in the Canadian Rockies. Always a thrill to see wildlife in their natural habitat. Happy birthday to your Dad! Thank you for linking up with #weekendcoffeeshare.
October 31, 2021 at 21:29
Hi Natalie! The ironic part is that my dad doesn’t read my blog. But, I’m sure my mom relayed the birthday blog wishes. And, of course, I called him that day to congratulate him as well. Wildlife is the best! 🙂
October 30, 2021 at 08:58
well wow! I would have worried that Maya would not find her way back up to camp. It sounds like she’s also an aggressive explorer and hunter. Did you worry?
October 31, 2021 at 21:35
Hi Gary!
It all happened so fast – Maya taking off, being many feet below us, following the sheep, stopping in her tracks, and running back up, that there was little time to worry. We do have a gos tracker on her collar and – because of the kind of dog she is – this has come in handy. Luckily, it was not needed this particular time.
Another thing about our dog is that she is extremely smart and has an amazing sense of location and direction. She more than likely is capable of finding her way back to our camper after being parked there for a couple of hours. And we move every day or every other day. Yes, she is very adventurous and curious. This lifestyle is perfect for her. 🙂
October 30, 2021 at 17:51
Wow, I really enjoyed this post and seeing the photos. To sit there and watch all these animals! Amazing.
October 31, 2021 at 21:37
Hi Susanne! I thoroughly enjoy watching, walking among, and swimming with wildlife. Those are the highlights of all my travels – overland or at sea. In another life, I’d happily live among animals in the wild to study and photograph them… 🙂
October 31, 2021 at 13:40
Such wonderful sights, Liesbet! We had a chance to stop by the Badlands several years ago, on one of our road trips, but didn’t have enough time to explore them. We did purchase the annual NP pass, I thought it’s so cheap, considering you use it all year long. Although we used it for few weeks only, it was still cheap. We only have few National Parks and sites in Canada, and they are so far from each other, that is not really convenient to buy it, unless you really stick around them for days.
I love the prairies dogs, they can be such posers🙂
Safe travels!!
Christie
October 31, 2021 at 21:43
Hi Christie!
The first time I drove through the Badlands, I only stayed one night or so, I think. This time around was special, since we weren’t in a rush and the weather was great. This allowed us to spend time sightseeing but also “living” in the park, surrounded by its wildlife and natural beauty. It’s the best way to immerse yourself in an area.
We usually buy an annual NP pass as well, since we have been living on the road for six years, but because of Covid and our plans to leave the country, it hasn’t happened lately. It is so worth the $80 when you travel full-time – or for a couple of months – throughout the US and have national parks on your agenda. After visiting three of them, you for your money back. If we end up spending another summer here, after Mexico, we will buy the pass for sure.
Yes, there seem to be so many more national parks here than in Canada. Especially in the southwest of the country. It’s awesome! 🙂
October 31, 2021 at 15:14
Seems like a wonderful time and whew – the leash sounds like a good idea
/ we went on a two day hike in the mountains and our dog followed a smell and was gone for about 15 minutes / the husband’s whistle finally
Lured him back and felt like a close call so we stayed leashed up after that
Your wild life photos are so good c
October 31, 2021 at 21:46
We always carry a leash with us for that particular reason. But sometimes the smell is so addictive and luring, that the dog takes off. Usually, Maya returns after a few minutes as well. But, after a couple of serious scares (once she was gone for 36 hours!) after we just adopted her, we purchased a gps tracker, which gives us some piece of mind. When there is cell service! We actually just changed carriers/companies and now have a tracker that will work worldwide. I’m so glad your dog returned. Fifteen minutes is a long time to worry!
October 31, 2021 at 22:37
Hi – 15 minutes is nothing compared to 36 hours – and the gps tracker sounds awesome especially with the new cell service
☀️
And your camper and truck look awesome
November 2, 2021 at 12:28
Thanks for the camper compliments, Yvette! The gps tracker gives us peace of mind. And, we have used it successfully in the past.
October 31, 2021 at 18:33
My first reaction to your post is the pet restrictions in the national parks, Liesbet. It’s a bummer but so many people abuse the fragility of many of the parks’ amenities letting their pets run wild.
That’s why we prefer to camp in the trailer so at least we can keep the dogs there while we explore. There are restrictions on the local state-wide trails here, too. It’s a little frustrating to by any kind of park pass and not be able to walk our dogs. If you read my post from today (halloween) you’ll know why I have to keep a close eye and sometimes a leash on both dogs on our own property, until the fences are complete! Amazing images of the badlands and glad you escaped those storms and stayed safe! Looks like your camper is a wonderful haven!
October 31, 2021 at 21:51
I totally get the rules in the national parks, Terri. Like you, we are responsible pet owners when it comes to these public areas, the leash laws, and picking up after our dogs. There are always people who have to ruin it for everyone else. Sigh!
Unlike Aero and Brody (who also have each other), Maya has separation anxiety and we don’t feel comfortable leaving her alone for more than three hours. This allows for some flexibility, but in general, we prefer to take her. Walking a trail without a dog doesn’t feel right, as she needs her exercise and hiking with a dog just ticks all the boxes. 🙂
That being said, this dog is so spoiled now that she is barely alone for any time. Which is not a good thing to teach her to be left alone. It’s all a tough balance…
I can imagine you receive a lot of visiting deer – or other species – in your current yard. I’m looking forward to catching up on your blog soon.
October 31, 2021 at 22:25
Wow! What an amazing experience! I haven’t done too much traveling/exploring in my lifetime other than to family’s homes for holidays and this definitely looks like something I would enjoy doing! Beautiful pictures and I’m glad your Maya didn’t stray too far. 🙂
November 2, 2021 at 12:26
Hi Angela!
Going on holidays and staying at people’s homes is so rewarding and comfortable. I often wished I could do this more to take a break from the road and enjoy the conveniences. But we love our lifestyle, so we will take it with the ups and downs. The ups are definitely the wildlife encounters, camping in nature, and being in a quiet and peaceful environment.
Our Maya is trouble! But, so far, she has always returned – except for that one time, where my husband tracked her down via the phone and gps for over one mile and had to grab her and bring her back…
November 1, 2021 at 00:45
Wow, what a gruelling trip. I guess they don’t call it the ‘Badlands’ for nothing. 😉 At least you’re learning how your new setup performs; and Maya didn’t catch a sheep. So that’s two checkmarks in the ‘plus’ column!
November 2, 2021 at 12:29
Hi Diane! It surprises us that people actually tried to homestead (and eventually failed) in these badlands. They look cool, but the harsh environment definitely attributes to their name. We were surprised that so much wildlife actually exists – and thrives – here. Pluses are good!! 🙂
November 1, 2021 at 08:41
Amazing pics, love seeing your adventures unfold
November 2, 2021 at 12:34
Thanks, Alex. Right now, these are small adventures in North America. Soon, we hope to head to South America, where the real adventure awaits. 🙂
November 1, 2021 at 19:00
So interesting. Thanks for the tour.
November 2, 2021 at 12:34
My pleasure, Antionette! We are fortunate to be able to keep living our lives on the road in North America right now.
November 2, 2021 at 11:32
WOW! What an adventure. That scenery is beautiful and I’d love to see all that wildlife. That rope ladder would be a big no for me! I’d love to see that area someday
November 2, 2021 at 12:37
Hi Kirsten! There was a cue of people coming down that rope ladder when we arrived, so Mark and I found a different route up and climbed on the sandstone walls to get there. This approach would have been too tricky to head down, so the rope ladder it was. It looks more terrifying than it is, as the hand “rails” and some of the rungs are bolted into the rock. The biggest issue was that descending it was slow going. I hope you manage to visit the Badlands one day. They are quite spectacular and most views are accessible by car.
November 2, 2021 at 19:48
I’d imagine the leash for Maya, or no dogs allowed could be for her own safety, after seeing all that wildlife going on there. 🙂 x
November 3, 2021 at 16:53
You are right Debby. Maya is fearless! Having her on leash among all that wildlife was the best solution. She does need a lot of exercise, though, so it is a matter of scouting out the vast, open areas of dog-friendly public land when we let her run and walk “free.”
November 3, 2021 at 07:42
I love your book block – where did you learn to do that? 🤔 😁
What an amazing place, Badlands is, Liesbet. It’s like nothing I’ve seen before. Although it has many mountains and hills, many of the photos also have land that looks very flat. The photo of Mark running towards your vehicle with the storm cloud in the distance is amazing.
And what incredible wildlife. It’s almost like being in a safari park. I’m glad you never got stuck in any mud. It looks like a place that is so big, you don’t see many signs of other human life.
My heart ponded hearing the Maya story of chasing the big-horned sheep. I’m sure our two dogs would have done the same, though. I’m glad she made it back up to you.
Snow? Did you really mention the word ‘snow?’
November 3, 2021 at 17:09
Hi Hugh!
You noticed my reusable book block!! 🙂 I was wondering if you’d say something about it. If not, I was going to point it out. Thank you so much for the tutorial about this. I finally made some time to dig into your advice and follow it. I still have to focus on a few other improvements, like the social media buttons and the page list…
We love this area of the US, because of its peace and vastness. So many times, we are camped all by ourselves. The starry nights are incredible. And, listening to the cries of the coyotes or seeing the prairie dogs and bison makes it all more special. I really enjoy being part of nature and the Western US delivers, especially the southwest, where we’re headed.
Maya has ran off a few times in her life. That’s why we have a gps tracker on her collar. Usually, she returns (and she is very smart and location aware), but you never know. In general, she finds her way back to the camper without issues. Even when we just arrived an hour or so prior. She always leads us back home.
Yep, that’s right. Snow. Yikes! It’s an awful four-letter word. We never thought we’d encounter it on this trip west, let alone camp (and slip) in it… Stay tuned! 🙂
November 4, 2021 at 12:12
It looks great, Liesbet. I think it looks great at the end of a blog post. And because it’s reusable, any amendments you make to it will be reflected wherever you use the block. How much time that will save you in only having to make the one amendment is what makes these blocks great. I don’t know why more people aren’t using them.
I would love to view the nighttime skies from a place like Badlands. No light pollution must make it an incredible experience. You must be able to see thousands of more stars than you would if looking at the sky from within an urban area. And the chances of catching shooting-stars is also increased.
Send any snow my way, please. I want a few more years of being able to toboggan down the hills around here.
November 5, 2021 at 12:05
Yes, indeed, Hugh. We spotted a couple of shooting stars recently.
I love the American West for its vast expanses of nature and public lands. Camping for free is easy, pretty, and diverse here. Unfortunately, many people – usually locals who go to these place to shoot guns or drive around in ATVs – leave trash. It’s awful. There are no trash cans, but you are supposed to take your garbage back out. “Pack it in, pack it out!” These people have garbage bins at home, so it’s even easy for them to dispose of trash the right way!
I tried to send you some snow but by the time I reached the post office, it had melted… Sorry! You’ll have to ask the British weather gods for help.
November 7, 2021 at 12:28
Glad you’re enjoying the American southwest. There are so many diverse and amazing sights. Traveling with Maya does make it more difficult though. So many incredible hikes in National parks. We’ve never seen anything like it anywhere else in the world.
November 8, 2021 at 23:59
Hi Steven! You are so right – there are few countries as diverse and spectacular as the US. Only Australia comes to my mind as a comparable competitor. 🙂 Honestly, and as you know, one could explore this country for years, discovering new places and indulging in all the national parks. We love that part of the states. And, each time my husband claims he’s tired of the US and really need to travel abroad again (which I’m ready for as well), I do point out that this isn’t a bad place to roam at all, especially the Southwest. Yes, I could easily spend another year in this neck of the woods. 🙂
November 11, 2021 at 09:45
What a wonderful place to visit. Odd about not allowing pets. Someone somewhere probably sued for something and there it went. I really need to visit our badlands.
November 11, 2021 at 12:55
You are right, Jacqui. Each time rules get tighter, it’s because someone – or many – disobeyed the previous rules and shows no respect towards the parks, rules, or fellow pet owners. I hope you get to check out the US Badlands one day. Maybe on your next road trip east, you can take the northern route. 🙂