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A Life Less Ordinary

Tag: South America (page 1 of 8)

Our Crazy Mercedes Vario Idea in Chile – A Waste of Time?

November 27, 2025 / / 16 Comments

Warning: This is a summarized yet long story about what we have really been doing the last four months.

I’m trying to remember when this crazy idea first emerged. At least six months ago, Mark was researching campers in Europe, since we thought/think this will be our new overlanding location. He must have stumbled upon a Mercedes Vario campervan, thought it looked cool and roomy, remembered our German friends Sabine and Michael having one, and focused his research on the 4×4 kind, only to discover that in Europe you need a special driver’s license for this “more truck than van” vehicle, prices wavered around a steep US$100,000, and there are many rules regarding registration, yearly inspections, insurance, and so on.

Driver’s side view of a Vario

It seemed like the Vario idea dead-ended right there. But on June 3rd (I checked my diary), an available 4×4 Vario appeared on the South America Overlanding Facebook page. There were only two problems: it was for sale in Peru with Peruvian plates and it was not converted yet. We inquired at a shop in Uruguay — the only place in South America we knew about — about how much it would cost to build out a van. More research followed and from the moment we realized that a vehicle can only leave Peru if it is owned by a Peruvian resident and that a new build would cost close to US$90,000, the idea was discarded again.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

The 4WD Vario in Peru
The owner had bought insulation, but never installed it.
The empty van in Peru
The Peru van came with some gear
He also bought fans to build out this van.

Fast forward to sometime in August when Mark discovered that Chile had imported hundreds of 4WD Vario vans from Europe to use in the mines as passenger transportation vehicles. Another problem arose: these vans had been well used and came with a bus door instead of a passenger door. Replacing that with an RV door would prove almost impossible, let alone dealing with the paperwork, the language, and other crazy logistics.

Bus door
Closed bus door
The bus door from inside

Soon after, Mark had a revelation. For months, he’d known about a Vario van that had been built out by a Chilean and had been for sale for a couple of years. It was located along the Chilean coast, four hours south of Santiago, but he hadn’t been interested because the camper section was poorly built and unattractive.

His revelation was this: it had a normal door and two seats in the cab, it was already registered as a camper (as opposed to a company vehicle), and becoming the owner of a new vehicle in Chile was straightforward and popular. It’s why many new overlanders buy a car or camper in Santiago to start their South American overland travels. Why not buy this crappy camper, gut it, and rebuild the living space from scratch?

Passenger side view of the Pichilemu Vario camper – with a normal door

By then, we had found out that there was a company in Santiago — Suzie Santiago CTW — that built out vans for a much better rate — but inferior quality — than the expensive shop in Uruguay. More research and communications followed with companies regarding the build and the paperwork. So many months of work and focus went into this pursuit! It’s pretty much all we did during our five weeks in Paraguay. We even drew up the perfect layout. Fun!

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For Sale in South America: A Fully Contained and Well-Maintained Truck Camper

August 22, 2025 / / 34 Comments

Start your self-catered South American adventure now! All you need to embark on this trip of a lifetime is a plane ticket and your personal belongings. 🙂

Bella in Chile

Mark, Maya, and I are wrapping up our three-year journey on the South American continent and are looking for a couple or small family that will enjoy our truck camper Bella as much as we have. If you know of anyone interested in an overland adventure with the perfect set-up for this part of the world, please let them know about our vehicle or share this post with them. We are very happy to answer any questions.

Thirsty Bella in Peru

Here are the details of our rig and a bunch of photos.

FOR SALE:

Fully Equipped Truck Camper – Ford F350 + Lance 830

This camper is set up for fulltime off-grid living and the vehicle is the perfect transportation to explore South America and beyond.

Price: $47,500 USD

Location: Argentina/Chile/Paraguay

Available: Now.

We speak English, Dutch, and some French and Spanish.

Registered/titled in the United States, easy transfer to any nationality via visitor.us.

You can also use a poder to travel while waiting for official US registration/title.

Camper and truck are meticulously maintained to provide care-free travel. Clean title/no accidents.

Likely one of the best equipped vehicles in South America with the lowest miles.

The cow décor brings smiles and laughs to the locals and allowed us to meet some great people along the way by giving them something to ask us about. We loved it and enjoyed making people smile during our travels. That said, the cow spots are stickers and can be removed if they are not your thing.

The camper can be removed from the truck to allow for exploration with just the truck.

Truck camper, passenger side with an awning and side entrance door
Truck camper, driver side with newly-painted ladder and jacks
Separating our camper and truck for cleaning purposes

Truck details:

  • Currently ~72000 miles.
  • 2016 F350 with 6.2L gas engine (385hp) and 6-speed automatic transmission. This engine/transmission combination is extremely reliable.
  • Front seating for 3, or 2 with a center console.
  • Extended cab with a back seat suitable for children and/or pets. Adults will be cramped. Seating for 3.
  • 35-gallon (132 liter) fuel tank.
  • Short truck bed (6’ ¾”) so it has a shorter wheelbase, which makes it easy to turn and maneuver.
  • 4WD with in-cab switch on demand.
  • Front hubs auto and manual lock.
  • 4WD High and Low.
  • Rear differential lock.
  • Flex-fuel compatible so no issues with high ethanol fuel in Brazil.
  • Power windows/locks. Windows in back doors are manual. Rear window in back is glass and electric.
  • Running boards along the entire cab.
  • Tablet mount on dash with wired USB-C cable.
  • Dash cam.
  • Moo horn (crucial safety equipment).
  • 3M security film on truck windows to prevent them from breaking (easily).
  • We are the 2nd owner.
  • Oil change every 5k miles with full synthetic.
  • Air filter changed every 20k miles.
  • Coolant changed at 40k.
  • Transmission oil changed at 70k.
  • Transfer case oil changed at 40k.
  • Spark plugs replaced at 60k.
  • Front brake pads replaced at 48k.
  • Rear brake pads replaced at 64k.
  • All oil and filters are Motorcraft/Ford.
  • Front tires replaced at 55k and rear tires replaced at 58k. AT tires with plenty of tread left.
  • Vair portable air compressor.
  • New truck battery 4/2024.
  • Heavy duty tow strap.
  • Titled in Massachusetts (US) and can be fully transferred to anyone (not just US residents) via visitor.us.
  • Spare parts: Oil filters, belt, ignition coils, front and rear brake pads, caliper pins.
  • Full set of tools with imperial and metric sockets, 3 torque wrenches, oil filter wrench.
  • Tools for electrical repairs.
  • OBD-II reader for Forscan Ford specific computer diagnostic software.
  • Full Ford workshop manual in PDF.
  • Truck is stock beyond the addition of Timbrens to help the rear suspension and Bilstein shocks all around.
  • Torklift camper tiedowns mounted to the frame of the truck for camper attachment.
  • Driven up to 15,500ft with no engine issues.
  • Total vehicle height with camper is 10.6ft (~3.2m).
  • 5-gallon jerrycan for extra fuel
Front seats F350
Back seats F350
F350 Info Sticker
F350 Payload Sticker
F350 VIN Sticker

Camper:

  • 2008 Lance 830. Very rare side-door entry truck camper. Roomiest floor plan for a truck camper this size.
  • Aluminum frame structure.
  • We are the second owners.
  • Outfitted specifically for off-grid travel in South America.
  • Standing height inside is about 6’ 3” (1.9m). I am 6’ 1” and fit comfortably.
  • Queen-size bed with 2” memory foam on top of spring mattress.
  • Dinette area for 4 people that converts to a smaller bed.
  • Wet bath with Separett Tiny composting toilet, wet shower and sink.
  • Kitchen with 2-burner stove, large and deep sink, 12V oven, and 12V Isotherm compressor refrigerator.
  • Water filtration system with .5-micron filter to allow for drinking tank water.
  • 4 large awning-style windows with shades and screens.
  • All windows and hatches have mosquito/bug screens.
  • 2 ceiling fans. MaxxFan above the bed (in/out) and Fantastic fan in bathroom (out).
  • LED lights throughout.
  • Permanently mounted Starlink wired to 12V with on/off switch. Mounted inside the camper in a ceiling skylight.
  • Permanently mounted router for use with Starlink. Gl-MT3000.
  • Large manual full-length awning on side of camper.
  • Outside LED lights on 3 sides of the camper.
  • USB charging ports.
  • Single 20lb US propane tank.
  • 2 heaters (propane). 1 forced air heater for when it’s really cold; also keeps tanks and plumbing from freezing. 1 catalytic heater that uses no electricity and is great for above freezing situations.
  • Gas grill with quick disconnect to use main tank for gas. No camping bottles needed.
  • 1 large outside storage compartment.
  • 48 gallons of fresh water. We added an additional 18-gallon tank to the standard 30 gallons. Plumbed together.
  • 17-gallon grey water tank.
  • 6-gallon hot water tank.
  • No black tank. Storage space now as that tank was removed when we installed the Separett.
  • Outside shower with hot/cold water.
  • 4 electrical jacks with remote control to take camper off the truck.
  • 400 Watts of solar panels mounted on the roof.
  • Victron 100/30 MPPT solar controller.
  • Victron Smart Shunt battery monitor.
  • Victron Orion XS 50A DC-DC charger. Charges from truck alternator.
  • Camper is wired for 120V. Can charge battery from a 120V power source (35A). A local transformer would allow you to plug into 220V outlets. We rarely had the need to plug-in for power because of solar and truck charging systems.
  • 500W pure sine wave inverter.
  • Single 272Ah lithium battery with Bluetooth management/monitoring.
  • Keyless entry on the door with a keypad (or key).
  • Fastgun turnbuckles to secure camper to the truck.
  • Camper connects to trailer plug of truck for all camper driving lights.
  • Camper connects via separate large Anderson style plug for DC-DC charging.
  • Tablet mounted on wall as permanent battery monitor connected to all Victron equipment.
  • Electric chainsaw to cut branches and small trees.
  • Spare parts for lots of things like electrical work, plumbing, caulk, repair tape, etc. Spare water pump. Spare water filters.
  • Lots of normal camping and household gear. Plates, pots, pans, glasses, outdoor chairs, bedding, snorkel gear, 12V vacuum, 2 camping tables, etc…..
Floorplan Lance 830
Tank monitor
Dinette
Compressor fridge
Queen-size bed
Camper interior view towards the front
Camper interior view towards the back
Bathroom with a shower, toilet, sink, and medicine cabinet

Once you get used to maneuvering, the camper can be taken off the truck in about 10-15 minutes. It takes about 20-30 minutes to put it back on.

This flexibility offers the best of both worlds: you can leave the camper safe in a campground and take the truck anywhere you could imagine. For us, this combination of truck and camper is ideal for South America and we would not have done it any differently.

Kitchen
Kitchen with open cabinets
Compressor fridge, 12V oven, grill, cabinets, sliding pantry to the right
Two-burner stove, deep sink, and big cabinets
Electronics under dinette bench
Camper roof with solar panels and vents

Original brochure: lancecamper.com/docs/2008-brochure.pdf

Video walkthrough: https://youtu.be/M-IlN4qigWk?si=YWeQ0TZigW7BUOXL

We have posted regularly on this blog if you’re interested in the full history of our overland travels thus far.

It is time for new adventures – for the new owners, for the camper, and for us.

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:

Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary

Available on Amazon and elsewhere

eBook: US$ 5.99

Paperback: US$ 13.99

Paraguay – The Underdog of South America (Part 2: Friends, Cities, and Eastern Explorations)

July 3, 2025 / / 29 Comments

In Part 1, we shared our first impressions of Paraguay and explored its historic Jesuit missions. Now, our journey continues with reunions, big cities, muddy roads, and a deeper look at life in this underrated country.

Southern Paraguay contains most of the country’s attractions.
Paraguay in South America
Map Overview Paraguay

Back to Encarnación: Reunion Time

On May 19th, we reunited with our American friends Duwan and Greg from Make Like An Apeman, who’d just finished backpacking South America for a year. They had booked two Airbnbs — one in Encarnación, the other near Areguá, an hour from the capital — and invited us to stay.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Our first apartment and its small yard
Using the car as transportation device
Doing heaps of laundry
Yay! The Airbnb has a washing machine!

We quickly separated the camper from the truck, parked on a concrete pad, and shut down our fridge to enjoy house life for a change. The next few days were cozy and productive: we took turns cooking dinners, I did heaps of laundry in the available machine, Mark and I ran errands and caught up on work, and our group explored the city and waterfront with Maya.

Stack near the waterfront
Walking along the river with our friends
Happy hour at the beach bar

We also followed a boardwalk to the colorful city “letters” and strolled past Encarnación’s cathedral and central plaza.

Sunset over “the letters” of Encarnación
The cathedral of Encarnación

Sapucai: An Old Train Yard

As our friends stayed behind for another night, we hit the road towards Asunción, because we required two days of driving to reach the capital area. We stopped in Sapucai, known for its old train yard.

Potholed roads of Paraguay
Old train in Supacay
Camped for the night in Supacay
Sapucay along the old railroad tracks

Unfortunately, the train museum closed earlier than indicated (we managed to visit in the morning), our fresh water tank ran dry (so we struggled with the little bit of drinking water we had left), and loud traffic and fireworks made sleep impossible (we should be getting used to this.)

Visit to the railroad workshop
The old railyard is now a museum
Old train engine
Part of the museum: old office equipment
Railway museum
A walk on the grounds of the museum

Still, we walked Maya on a bike path and tried to stay flexible, adjusting our plans due to impending rain and muddy red dirt roads.

This cat stayed with us the entire time.
The railway bed is now a walking and biking trail
Persistent cat

Yaguarón: The Wooden Church

Before reaching the capital region, we visited Templo de San Buenaventura in Yaguarón, known for its ornate wooden interior. A local guide explained the church’s intricate design for a tip.

The interesting church of Yaguarón
Interior of the church
Intricate altar
View from the interior of the church towards the outside
The old bell tower with the antique bell in the foreground
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Paraguay – The Underdog of South America (Part 1: First Impressions and Jesuit Missions)

June 28, 2025 / / 31 Comments

Paraguay is a country often skipped by overlanders and tourists alike. With no world-famous attractions and sandwiched between popular Brazil and Argentina, it remains overlooked. But after traveling through increasingly expensive countries, Mark and I were more than ready for a change. Paraguay promised affordability, authenticity, and, according to our friends — sushi!

Southern Paraguay contains most of the country’s attractions.
Paraguay in South America
Map Overview Paraguay

Encarnación: Entering Paraguay

We crossed into Encarnación on May 11th without any issues — unless you count Mark knocking over the customs officer’s mate cup. That moment confirmed a fun fact: in Paraguay, mate is served cold, unlike in Argentina. Another surprise? The now soaked and hand-written vehicle permit had to be recreated.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Crossing the international bridge between Posadas, Argentina and Encarnacion, Paraguay
We have arrived in a new country!
Filling out the car permit for a second time
Paraguayan license plate

The city gave us a place to run long-delayed errands, save on gas prices, and visit a grocery store that had many items we couldn’t find or afford for a year. We loaded up, grabbed BBQ from a Sunday street stand, and sat by the river feeling like we’d finally entered another budget-travel paradise.

Our first meal in Paraguay is take-out asado
A friendly face and friendly prices at the gas station
Well-stocked grocery store Super Seis
Celebrating our arrival with a drink
Our first (free) boondocking spot in Paraguay
Sunset over the river

But reality hit that night: loud motorcycles, thumping music, and little chance of sleep reminded us that we were still very much in Latin America.

Waterfront boardwalk
The main beach in Encarnacion
Old warehouse
Old silo
Lifeguard station on the main beach
A pretty river beach in Encarnacion
Beach sign with the skyline of Posadas in Argentina in the background

Life on the Waterfront (and a Sushi Dream)

Knowing Paraguay would be cheaper than Argentina or Chile, we’d saved up chores and repairs. In Encarnación, we tackled a camper ladder repaint, installed a mirror, and found transmission parts — choosing to do the work ourselves to save $400 in labor. The waterfront became our “work station.”

A new mirror
Picking up and installing our freshly painted ladder

Despite the chaos, one night stood out: Mark and I finally went out for cocktails and indulged in a sushi boat at Hiroshima, a Japanese restaurant. We hadn’t felt that luxurious in years.

Cocktail time!
The Japanese restaurant in Encarnacion
Sushi for dinner!
A pretty and tasty sushi boat

Jesuit Mission #1: San Cosme and Damián

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Wrapping Up a Year of RV Travel in Argentina – From Mendoza to Posadas

June 4, 2025 / / 34 Comments

Mark, Maya, and I set foot in Argentina for the first time on March 6th, 2024, coming from Chile and Bolivia. Sure, we hopped into Chile a few more times, and we enjoyed a three-month break in our home countries since then, but we feel we gave our explorations of Argentina a valiant attempt. So much so that, in the end, we couldn’t wait to leave. We realized that slow travel—while it has many advantages—can also wear you down in third-world countries.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Bumpy roads as always
More crappy roads in Argentina
One of the police checkpoints. In Argentina, they usually let us pass without hassles.

After saying goodbye to our friends Heather and Jon in Mendoza, our trio headed east, with the Córdoba region as our first main destination. We stopped at a couple of places beforehand, but didn’t sleep well due to traffic noise and encountered restrictions in national parks because of Maya. After that, we gave up on Argentinian parks altogether.

Walk in the dunes with Maya
In this area, Maya was allowed
We had hoped to go for a few hikes in this national park, but …
… dogs aren’t allowed. Not even when they stay in the camper. We were told to board our dog if we wanted to stay.

What follows is a realistic account of our life and discomfort on the road, with a few sights thrown in. It wasn’t the best month we’ve had.

Route Northern Argentina

Dique Luján

We searched iOverlander for a quiet spot over Easter weekend and found a reasonable option by the dam of Luján. Coincidentally, we had picked a campsite close to a pilgrimage site with Stations of the Cross.

Pilgrimage to the top of the crosses
Top of the crosses route
Procession on Easter Friday
One of the stations of the cross

We managed decent walks with Maya and the sun finally gave us the warm weather we’d been waiting for after our coldest and wettest summer on record. But because of the heat, our fridge started acting up again—running too much, too hard, and draining the camper battery.

Our camping spot by Dique Lujan
Walk along the canyon
Sandy Maya after a swim
Reflections in the reservoir
Maya’s favorite spot in the house

After one warm day, the clouds returned, power became precious again, and the wind picked up. The incessant shaking of the camper upset both Maya and our sleep. We had finally found a quiet place, but ended up moving in the middle of the night to find better wind protection among trees.

The Lujan dam
Crossing the dam on foot
Staring down the dam
View of the reservoir above the dam
Maya poses next to a condor mural on the dam

The following morning, we moved away from those same trees, fearing they might drop particles on the roof that would upset Maya. We found an open-air spot, but that didn’t help with power since it rained all day. We had to run the car for an hour just to charge the battery enough to work—our computers and Starlink need a lot of electricity. Mark and I also cleaned the fridge’s compressor with Q-tips and improved its ventilation. That helped it run more efficiently.

Ready to clean the compressor tubes of our fridge
Relaxing by the river
River view from our camp spot

On Easter morning at 8am, teenagers in two cars pulled up next to us, opened their doors, and blasted music. We had planned to leave anyway, so we took off for a long day in the car.

Capilla del Monte

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The Lake Districts of Argentina and Chile

April 21, 2025 / / 25 Comments

Leaving Chile

It was a bit tricky, but Mark and I managed to get a vet check-up and international dog permit for Maya in Futaleufú over the span of three hours and for a total cost of $28. Unfortunately, unlike her other permits, this one was only valid for 30 instead of 60 days. It would keep us moving!

Location of the Lake Districts in both countries
Lake District in Argentina
Lake District in Chile

The same afternoon, we left the country and crossed into Argentina on washboard roads, aiming for six things in one week: sunnier weather on the other side of the Andes Mountains, better roads, cheaper fuel, no ferry schedules/costs that were mandatory on the Carretera Austral, an affordable laundromat, and a full propane tank. After accomplishing those goals, we’d return to Chile for about three weeks.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Back to Argentina
More potholed, gravel roads on the Argentinian side

In Esquel, our first town in Argentina, we failed dropping off our laundry and it took multiple attempts to find a decent camping spot. We did manage to fill our fuel and water tanks for almost half the price than in Chile!

This was a problem… We couldn’t enter our intended camping area in Esquel this way.
After a big and bumpy detour, we reached the camping spot a different way.
Another victim from the uneven roads – We are down to two cereal bowls now (from four).
Pretty and peaceful park for the night
A nice park to walk with Maya

The next stop was Rio Azul, where we planned to take a mini-break from the road for a few days and sit out bad weather. We did have to move once, because it rained so much that the river rose rapidly and we worried about being flooded.

Can you believe this track crosses the river?
We enjoyed this spot, before it started pouring!
Nice camping spot for a few nights
Cleaning our pee container in the river
And then the river rose! Mark put a stack of rocks on the edge to monitor the flood level.
Walk to the other side of the river with Maya
Our walking destination was this pretty waterfall.
Crossing the suspension bridge
We had to move to a higher spot when the river kept rising.

Bariloche, Argentina

The idea was to – urgently – fill our propane tank at a depot on the way north to Bariloche. We were now on paved roads, the sun had returned, and progress was smooth. We had confirmed this depot was open on a Saturday morning, but when we arrived, desperate for gas to cook, shower, and heat Bella, the people capable of filling international tanks didn’t work during the weekend. The facility was only open to swap Argentinian tanks… Right.

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The Real Patagonia – Welcome to the Mountains of Southern Chile and Argentina

March 19, 2025 / / 34 Comments

Ushuaia, the southern-most city of the South American continent, was a pleasant surprise with its excellent free camping, well-developed trails, and beautiful mountain scenery. But, by the time we left in our camper, Mark and Maya had been there for five weeks and I for over three, due to my 10-day trip to Antarctica.

Topping up our propane tank once more at Sartini Propane in Ushuaia – the best place ever!
Leaving Argentina on my first day back to shore
Back to Chile!

Needless to say, Mark was more than ready to head north again, especially since the weather had turned rainy. So, from the moment I disembarked the MV Ushuaia, we topped up our propane tank, received copies of our dog paperwork from the friendly attendant after asking for this favor, and left. Mark had taken care of groceries, fuel, and drinking water during my absence.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Still driving at the end of the world.
Monument of the wind

We made decent progress that first day I was home, but I felt like I was thrown right back into our challenging lifestyle. Extremely strong headwinds made the drive dangerous and ruined our fuel economy. We lost an hour at a fuel station near the border with Chile, because they were out of gas. We waited for the tanker to supply the station and filled up our truck and a jerrycan. This container travelled at my feet and was leaking profusely, spilling liquid and fumes. At the border in Chile, officials took all our beans and lentils, which had never been a problem before. And, the next morning, we woke up to a flat tire!

Quiet night along a dirt road in Tierra del Fuego
We woke up to this. Ooops.
Before the relentless wind started, Mark put our spare tire on.

Day two started with a tire repair kit that didn’t work, us installing the spare tire before the relentless wind picked up, and Mark discovering that the flat was caused by the car reversing onto a screw that had fallen off our own camper due to all the bumpy, gravel roads! Irony is ever a big part of our lives. We left Tierra del Fuego on a ferry and continued our journey north to the real Patagonia, covering a chunk of miles every day.

A guanaco jumping over a fence: we hated watching this as some of them get caught this way and die a horrible death.
Taking the same ferry off Tierra del Fuego from two months prior
It was a tight fit!

That day ended unexpectedly as well. We had parked at the only level spot, in front of a small, seemingly abandoned boat that rested on the grass, not on a trailer. At 10:30pm, commotion outside had us up and about. You guessed it. Exactly on this particular Sunday evening, someone needed to pick up this particular boat! So, we moved. This one had us laugh out loud…

Camped in front of what appeared to be an unused boat…
Right! At 10:30pm, someone decided to pick up this boat, so we moved.

A detour to Punta Arenas was necessary to get our tire fixed with the last local cash we had and to stock up on groceries, Chilean pesos, alcohol, and Maya’s dogfood. You have no idea how much Mark and I had been looking forward to visiting these decent, affordable stores. We could finally splurge on a few items that are unavailable or unaffordable in Argentina!

Getting our punctured tire fixed in Punta Arenas, Chile
One more time, Mark installs a tire on our truck. It was cheaper this way, especially since we only had so much Chilean pesos in cash left.
Splurging on some favorite booze
Mushrooms are affordable in Chile. Yay!
And another massive bag of dogfood for Maya, which we have only been able to buy in Colombia and Chile thus far.

The next town in Chile, Puerto Natales, also required a stop for more errands. We dropped off our dirty sheets, towels, and jeans, made dentist appointments for teeth cleanings, topped up with potable water, took Maya for a walk, and did work and research while waiting for our laundry to be done. I started to feel sicker and realized I must have picked up a bug on the expedition ship.

Welcome to Puerto Natales!
Old train engine in Puerto Natales, Chile
Church in Puerto Natales
Another historic building in town
Taking Maya for a walk in this clean and attractive town
Decent camping spot, despite being in a city
The harbor is full of fishing boats
Now this is a much cooler monument to commemorate the wind!
And we found another “Hand” sculpture by artist Mario Irarrázabal. We spotted two before, in Chile and Uruguay.

One of the main attractions in this part of Patagonia is Torres del Paine National Park. We had found an amazing free camping spot in iOverlander, one that friends had recommended, and looked forward to resting up and working in this pretty location, across from a river and the incredible park.

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Annual Expense Report of a Nomad – 2024 (Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, USA, Belgium, Uruguay)

February 3, 2025 / / 32 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. “The less money you spend, the less you need to make” is our motto. 🙂 At the beginning of each year, I produce an expense report for the previous 12 months. This is the most recent one, for 2024.

Our first yearly expense report (2016) can be found here, the report of 2017 is here, the one for 2018 here, our 2019 expenses are located here, our total costs for 2020 are documented here, those for 2021 are detailed here, 2022’s financial summary hides here, and you can find our full expense report for 2023 here.

These reports include ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and a 60-pound dog. We adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019. Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the US East Coast. The internet cost is for our Starlink’s monthly subscription fees. We bought our satellite dish in Lima, Peru, in September 2023.

In 2024, Mark, Maya, and I drove from Bolivia to South America’s tip, passing through Uruguay, Chile, and Argentina in our truck camper Thirsty Bella. We also took a three-month break from the road in Massachusetts, USA and Belgium.

A break from the road for Maya
Happy hour with friends in Belgium
Enjoying the Belgian delicacies
On vacation with my cousin and her husband in Germany
Mussels and fries in Belgium
The use of a decent-sized oven in Belgium!
Going shopping by bicycle

On this multiple-year South American overland journey, which started in November 2022, so far we visited Colombia for six months, Ecuador for three, Peru for five, and Bolivia for a month and a half.  We continued with a couple of months in Chile, a month in Uruguay, and about eight months in Argentina. That’s a lot of driving.

The incredible Los Caracoles road
Driving in Northern Argentina
Welcome to Argentina
Welcome to Uruguay
Crisscrossing Uruguay
Awful fuel mileage in the mountains
Chilly drive in the countryside

So, it is no surprise that the biggest expense category for last year was, once again, our vehicle ($6,248!), with $3,587 going to fuel.

Filling our fuel tank with jerrycans
The most affordable fuel station in Argentina
Fuel prices in Argentina
Buying fuel in Argentina
In Chile, the fuel is 1/3 more expensive than in Argentina
Buying more fuel in Argentina
Getting very expensive fuel in Uruguay
Another fuel top-up in pricey Uruguay

Maintaining the F350 truck cost over $2,000, since we had a $600 spark plug issue in Buenos Aires, we bought four brand-new tires in Chile, and we keep on buying new ignition coils, generic ones in Bolivia and better ones in the US.

Replacing worn-out ignition coils in Bolivia
Two new tires in Northern Chile
Our spare tire had a leaking valve
Doing our own oil change at a shop in Chile
Buying extra oil for a future oil change in Argentina
Getting our tires balanced and rotated in Chile
More new tires in Santiago, Chile
Needing professional help for a seized spark plug issue
Hiring someone to separate a seized brake caliper pin

Furthermore, liability insurance for the MERCOSUR countries, obtained in Argentina, tripled within four months ($412) and we paid $123 in parking fees and $68 for tolls. Yup, Thirsty drank a lot of money in 2024!

Toll booth in Bolivia
Toll booth in Northern Argentina
Another toll booth in Argentina
Toll booth in Uruguay
Expensive tolls in Uruguay

More than $3,000 went to groceries, which was a couple of hundred dollars more than last year. I guess we can blame the insane inflation in Argentina for that. Although, because of it, we only buy necessities. We hope that wherever we spend the bulk of our time this year, life will be cheaper.

One hundred dollars worth of Argentinean pesos
Counting Argentinian pesos
Vegetable market
A decent grocery chain in Argentina
Another decent grocery store in Argentina
Typical bakery in Argentina
Massive “Jumbo” grocery store in Chile
Vegetable stand in Santiago de Chile
We really like this Chilean grocery store

The travel category was a big one ($2,357), because the three of us flew to both our home countries, an extremely rare occasion. We enjoyed this break from the road, since we’ve been roaming about fulltime for 21 years now. This amount bought us return flights from Buenos Aires, Argentina, to Boston, MA, and from Boston to Brussels, Belgium, plus one checked bag for the last leg.

International flights
A real, comfy bed for Maya
Gathering with friends in Massachusetts

Maya had her most expensive year as well at over $1,200. Not because she got sick, however. All those international health certificates and export permits added up, especially when two of them had to be obtained in the US. Our little family flying “home” is not only logistically challenging…

Vet visit after Maya got bitten and needed stitches
Maya’s vaccination sheet
Vet visit before entering Uruguay
Agriculture department at the airport of BA to get Maya’s paperwork
Stuffing Maya’s pathetic dog bed
More paperwork needed for Maya’s border crossings

In 2024, Mark and I also purchased high-quality dogfood for $300 and pet supplies for $134, and gave vet clinics $130.

Waiting for Maya’s online dogfood offer to kick in
Pricey dogfood for Maya
More dogfood for Maya in Chile

Our alcohol expenses remained similar to 2023 at around $600. We mostly bought decent, local wines at $4 a bottle.

Chilean wine
Stocking up on affordable and amazing wine from a small vineyard
Affordable and tasty Dada wine in Argentina – our trusted brand
How about some chocolate wine?
Celebrating New Year’s Eve with a homecooked meal and a reserve wine

Money spent on gifts ($554) went up a bunch, because there was a wedding present involved, on top of the usual birthday and Christmas gifts. And, Mark and I offered my parents thank-you tickets for a musical as well, because they were super generous over the summer.

Belgian beer as a gift for Mark’s birthday
Dinner out with Jo and Tom as their wedding gift
Day trip to spot wildlife for my birthday
The cute and breeding Rockhopper penguin

Computer costs ($548) include keyboards and hard drives, a new tablet for the car, another router for Bella, hosting fees, and software. Leave it to Mark to find the best deals for all of this.

Dinner out with our friends, Heather and Jon
Yummy pizza out in Bolivia
Amazing and affordable empanadas in Northern Argentina
Parilla (BBQ) in Cafayate, Argentina
Pizza out
High tea in Gaiman, Argentina

We spent only 1/3 of last year’s amount on dining out ($478). You can definitely blame the insane increase of prices in Argentina for that. Plus, we received donations for this splurge as well, some of which I am saving for 2025. I have to admit that because of our frugal attitude towards restaurants, our quality of life feels like it has gone down. Way more cooking and dishes and fatigue!

Argentinian pizza with fries and eggs
Take-out pizza
Take-out sushi for Mark’s delayed birthday dinner in Buenos Aires
Our last pizza out in 2024
Expensive empanadas in Argentina six months later

Utilities, camper repairs, clothing, and household supplies were on par with 2023.

A new spoon/ladle was needed.
New faucet for our bathroom
Every year, we need a new non-stick pan.
Shopping in a hardware store
Fixing the water heater

Internet, propane gas, and water are necessities in life. For our interior, we could use a new DC-DC charger and a bathroom faucet, as well as household batteries, poop bags, sheets, and wine glasses. We also bought a jerry can to carry extra fuel.

Gravity filling our propane tank, something we are familiar with from the boat life
Filling our tank with potable water
Time to get more propane gas
Bringing the empty propane tank to a filling station
Friendly service in Argentina
Filling with water from jugs, via our pump
Getting fresh water the old-fashioned way
Our propane tank was accidentally filled with butane, which caused issues in the freezing weather!
Topping up with propane
Getting free water at the fire station of Ushuaia, Argentina
Filling with potable water, a bi-weekly chore

The entertainment category wasn’t high, at $234, since we’ve been avoiding the steep national park entrance fees in Argentina and Chile and focused on free activities, like hiking, and more affordable visits. The most expensive excursion we booked in 2024 was an amazing day trip on the Salar (salt flats) of Uyuni, Bolivia.

Day trip to the Salar in Bolivia
Visiting another salt flat in Northern Argentina
Visit to a fort in Uruguay
Historic site of Villa Epecuen, Argentina
The oldest Welsh house in Gaiman, Argentina, built in 1874

As far as yearly clothing for two people, we didn’t go overboard. New hiking shoes, shorts, and jeans for Mark and two pairs of pants for me cost $134 in total.  The only reason the “Health & Fitness” category went up was our increased awareness and actions towards improved dental hygiene. We bought a water flosser, an electric toothbrush, and better toothpaste.

Carrying extra, smelly fuel with us
New jeans for Mark!

Transportation covers the use of Uber, cable cars, and taxis when we were camped on the outskirts of cities and our annual bank charge was a bit higher than before, because of a mistake with a (usually free) ATM fee.

Cable car ride throughout La Paz, Bolivia
A colectivo or minibus in La Paz, Bolivia
Cable car ride in Santiago, Chile

I’m not sure if $100 a year for laundry is expensive, but, since drop-off prices in Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay are super high, we have been washing more and more clothes by hand, saving a lot of money. Self-serve machines in South America are very rare.

Hand laundry in Uspallata
Checking out laundromats in Central Argentina
Laundry by hand at the beach
Ice cold, but free water to do a bunch of laundry
This is the most clothes I’ve ever washed by hand, I think.
Cheap laundry in Rio Gallegos, Argentina

Mark and I only paid for camping once in 2024, which is hard to believe. Ten nights of fees went to Zapparancho ($83) near Buenos Aires, Argentina, because we needed a base to get ready for life on the road again after our summer break. And, we needed to fix a few things in a convenient location. This was also a good place to donate a lot of clothes and gear we didn’t use anymore.

Fixing the engine at Zapparancho
One of our favorite campsites this past year, in Bolivia
Camped by “The hand in the desert,” Chile
Wild camping in Northern Argentina
Great boondocking spot along the coast in Argentina
Beautiful camping spot on Tierra del Fuego, Chile
Pretty camping spot in Ushuaia

Mark and I had bloodwork done in Bolivia, which makes up the $74 for medical costs. The miscellaneous category includes things like a voluntary contribution for being towed out of the sand in Northern Chile and an assortment of copies.

Getting towed out of the sand after a frightful twelve hours in Northern Chile

Another amount that has decreased a lot in 2024 is “drinking out.” Again, with current prices in bars and restaurants soaring, we are just as happy to have a drink at home. Especially since, surprise, decent bottles of wine in Argentina have remained very affordable.

Wine tasting in Central Argentina
Wine tasting at our favorite vineyard
Wine tasting with friends in Argentina

I want to mention two more things in this expense report. First, thank you to everyone who has contributed a donation. We really appreciate this. Not only does it lower our annual costs, but it makes us smile and realize that you appreciate these blog posts and following along with our adventures.

Our only dinner out (with a friend) during our five weeks in Ushuaia

And, to be completely transparent, there was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and cost for me, Liesbet, at the end of 2024. I paid for a ten-day trip to Antarctica in January, which I will report on soon. It was super expensive, but as cheap as possible. I spent $5,752 on the “cruise” ticket with money I had saved up in Belgium, which is why it’s not reflected in our annual budget. This includes a $15 bank fee and $37 for mandatory insurance.

Visiting with the chinstrap penguins in Antarctica
One of my favorite photos of the Antarctica trip
In Antarctica with penguins and our ship, Ushuaia, in the background

In conclusion, our 2024 total of $16,661 is a little bit higher than our $16K average of the last two decades. This boils down to just under $1,400 a month. Let’s see what 2025 brings!

2024 Overview:

Car (fuel: $3,587; maintenance: $2,057;

insurance: $412; parking: $123; tolls: 68):

Groceries:

Travel (plane tickets):

Dog (permits: $658; food: $299; supplies: $134; vet: $130):

Alcohol:

Gifts (B-days, Christmas, wedding):

Computer (hardware: $355; hosting: $127; software: $66):

Dining out:

Utilities (internet: $336; prop.: $73; water: $13; Skype: $5):

Camper:

Entertainment:

Health & Fitness (haircuts, vitamins, teeth hygiene):

Household:

Clothing:

Transportation (Uber, taxis):

Bank fees (Chase visa card):

Laundry:

Camping:

Medical:

Drinking out:

Miscellaneous (towing, copies):

 

TOTAL:

Donations:

 

GRAND TOTAL:

 

 

$6,248

$3,087

$2,357

$1,221

$595

$554

$548

$478

$427

$417

$234

$153

$144

$134

$131

$102

$97

$83

$74

$67

$27

———

$ 16,944

– $ 283

———

$ 16,661

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

And that’s a wrap! If you are enjoying these posts and would like to help out with our expenses maintaining this blog, please click on the donate button underneath, in the side bar, or in the menu bar on top. I promise Roaming About will remain an ad-free website. Thank you!

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Antarctica! (Or the January 2025 expense report.)

Donate to Roaming About to help maintain this website.

Unparalleled Ushuaia – The End of the World

January 27, 2025 / / 55 Comments

Mark and I were not looking forward to arriving in Ushuaia, Argentina, after entering the island of Tierra del Fuego and enjoying its stark beauty, but less so, its strong winds. It was an irrational fear. Not because reaching the “end of the world” was daunting; it’s never the end of the road for us.

Ushuaia – More attractive than we expected

We stalled, because Ushuaia is a city and we don’t like staying or running errands in cities. They are loud, busy, congested, and annoying. Ushuaia did not offer a different experience – we hated driving around and not finding parking – but… its surroundings were extraordinary, unexpected, and jaw-droppingly beautiful.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

“End of the world” highway
Almost there!
More than 3,000 km from Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina

We were soon drawn to the views and the hikes and ended up staying for five weeks. Mark anyway. I went on a little side adventure, while he and Maya patiently braved the strong winds and heavy downpours for those ten extra days. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Before reaching Ushuaia proper and the so-called end of the road, we attempted a loop hike in the mountains. That circuit didn’t work out (no signs or paths were detected), but the trail to Twin Lakes still offered a bit of exercise, peace, and mud for all three of us.

First hike near Ushuaia
One of the Twin Lakes
Second of the Twin Lakes
The views were okay
Our first beaver dam in Tierra del Fuego

Ushuaia

Upon arrival, mid-December, we had to pose by the Ushuaia sign, of course, like thousands of other overlanders have done. For many, this is a serious milestone as they will have driven the entire Pan-American highway from Alaska to Ushuaia. It means their epic road trip and journey has come to an end. Most of them rush to a port from here to ship their vehicle back home, or they sell it in Argentina or Chile after 6-12 months on the continent. It took Mark, Maya, Thirsty Bella, and me exactly two years to get here from Cartagena, Colombia!

We made it to Ushuaia, the end of the road
High ten, Maya!
Arrival in Ushuaia on December 15th, 2024, exactly two years after starting this drive in Cartagena, Colombia!

Our arrival dread changed into excitement upon witnessing this sign and the mountainous surroundings. The innumerous white caps on the famous Beagle Channel, coloring the water more white than blue, was a telltale of how windy this area gets. We better got used to it from the start!

It was VERY windy from day one.
It’s always windy at the bottom of the world.
Southside of the city

The first plan of action, even before running errands, was to find a decent spot to replace our rear brakes. On day one in Ushuaia, we took the camper off our truck and Mark started this day-long project, while I stood by for assistance. The wind and dust weren’t helping and – of course – something had to go wrong.

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Wind and Wildlife in Patagonia – Heading South along the Argentinian Coast

January 3, 2025 / / 40 Comments

Happy New Year, everyone! Mark, Maya, and I wish you all a healthy, productive, inquisitive, comfortable, and adventurous 2025. Thank you for following Roaming About and appreciating that crazy lifestyle of ours.

I finally finished my Patagonia wildlife post, which contains lots of photos and videos. This footage hopefully gives you a better representation of our incredible encounters. Enjoy!

Route South to Ushuaia
Northern Part Route
Southern Part Route

After “killing” a month of time in and around Uruguay in anticipation of less cold weather in the south, Mark and I deemed November 1st a good time to cross the border into Argentina again and head to Patagonia along the Atlantic Coast. It was still spring in the Southern Hemisphere, but the goal was to reach Ushuaia, the bottom of the continent, by December 21st, the start of the austral summer.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in the galleries to read their captions.)

Group of youngsters partying behind our camper, playing loud music and driving their motorcycles on the sidewalk.
Almost at our next destination to finally go to sleep!

We had a rough start of this 2,500-mile (3,750km) southbound journey in Gualeguaychú with lack of sleep due to a motorcycle event with revving engines until 2am and youth partying behind our camper at 4am. We packed up and moved in the dark to settle at a fuel station by 5:15am.

This park was quiet!

This was followed by hours of driving and eventually settling in a nice and free municipal campground for a few days to work. After that commitment, the three of us started to cover miles along a boring Ruta 3, stopping at a few points of interest and stocking up on groceries before reaching a more remote and expensive Patagonia.

Eerie camp spot

One of the interesting sites we picked for a visit was Laguna de Epecuén, which draws tourists because of its eerie appearance. On November 6th, 1985 (exactly 39 years prior to our visit), an unusual weather pattern destroyed the dam and dike protecting the village of Villa Epecuén, flooding the area. This resort destination was never rebuilt and became a ghost town. Skeletal trees stand guard day and night, enhancing the barren scenario.

Signs in Spanish and English offer information and sketches of what was before.
A glimpse into the past
Remaining bars
Stairs to nowhere
Old playground
Rumble and ruins

Most overlanders drive to Ushuaia via the Andes Mountains that straddle the Argentinian-Chilean border, which is a more scenic route than our choice near and along the Atlantic Coast. There are three reasons we picked this “faster” and “boring” side of the continent: we were already located in the east when starting the last stretch of our journey south, we hoped to spend most of the summer in the Andes on our drive back north, and this route offered wildlife encounters.

Flamingos on Epecuén Lake

Besides the random flamingoes, no interesting animals had crossed our path yet. That was about to change in Balneario El Condor, located at the northern edge of Patagonia. This, we learned after going through multiple agriculture checkpoints. We arrived in the province of Rio Negro on El Dia de la Tradicion (November 10th) and were greeted by cute children offering goodies and cheaper fuel!

Local treats for Dia de la Tradicion

El Condor might be located off the beaten track, but we really recommend a stop here if you have your own vehicle. This is where the biggest colony of burrowing parrots in the world is situated.

Homecoming
Flying parrots
The beach in El Condor

Miles of cliffs are inhabited by these pretty, squawking birds that are a delight to witness. Yes, they are loud! Luckily, they go to sleep at night, but the nights at this time of the year are short. They made sure we went to bed with them and woke up with the first sunrays!

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