“The scenery is amazing!” “The people are so friendly here!” “Everything just works!” “Argentina is dirt cheap!” – These were the sentiments shared by fellow overlanding friends when they arrived in Argentina, many months before we did. People loved the change of scenery, culture, attitude, and quality of life, once they crossed that “last” border.
Mark and I couldn’t wait to visit. But, sometimes, slow travel bites you in the butt. In March 2024, when the three of us finally arrived in Northern Argentina, prices for everything had doubled, if not tripled or quadrupled, and the excitement of other travelers was lost on us. Because we are on a tight budget? Because we travel with a dog? Because we came from “westernized” Chile with immaculate paved roads, leashed dogs, friendly drivers, clean cities, and modern feel?
In a nutshell: We had expectations when we crossed the border (and that was our mistake, really; we know better than to have expectations). Yet, what we – initially – found were dusty towns, lots of trash, dangerously grooved roads, ear-piercingly loud motorcycles, the smell of burnt garbage, and loose dogs. There were also a lot of indigenous people, unlike in Chile. Northern Argentina felt like an extension of Peru and Bolivia, and it was NOT cheap.
Apart from those experiences as vehicle drivers, long-term travelers, and dog owners, of course there was beauty, joy, and excitement to be found as well. Why else would we still be on the road?
Our destinations in Northern Argentina
Susques
After a beautiful drive, a smooth and efficient border crossing in Pasa Jama, and a disappointing money exchange (our crisp U$100 bills weren’t as crisp as we thought, and the blue dollar “tourist” rate had dropped a lot), we spent our first night near the town of Susques, which has a cute adobe church.
Here, we had to choose between the famously pretty but bumpy Ruta 40 South or the paved comfort of Ruta 68. We picked the easy solution and are happy we did as it delivered beauty in the form of scenery and new friends.
Salinas Grandes
Before reaching our first real tourist town, we stopped at the salt flats of Salinas Grandes. We’d hoped to visit the Ojos, clear pools in the middle of the Salar, on a short van tour, but because of recent rains, this part was too wet to drive on. So, the three of us just walked around the salty terrain with its clear-blue canals – and Maya was a mess!
Purmamarca
In Purmamarca, we only anticipated a hike among the colored mountains. It was a hot afternoon, but the fee for the trail was low and the surroundings bright and attractive. When returning via the center of town, we liked it so much that we decided to spend the night on the sloped parking lot we had pulled into earlier. The pleasant atmosphere of downtown – and the prospect of dinner at a pizza restaurant that didn’t open until 8 pm – had us change plans.
Prices at the pizzeria had gone up more since their last Google review a month prior, but we decided to stay and splurge anyway. It beats cooking and doing the dishes every day. And, that $20 meal allowed us to communicate with a local couple and practice our Spanish!
Before we left the following morning, Mark, Maya, and I ventured back into town to check out the adobe church and the 700-year-old tree our friend Jeff had told us about.
Maimara
Our campsite in Maimara sounded nicer in iOverlander than it was – a dirt pit that would turn into mud during rainy weather – but when the sun set, the colors around us turned spectacular. After a quick walk to town and fending off heaps of loose, barking dogs, we visited a local lady to buy homemade preserves and hot sauce. She let us try some of her creations and endured our poor Spanish with a smile.
Tilcara
The main reason we were driving north again (towards Bolivia) was to meet up with other nomads and their dog in Tilcara. It was very hot. After checking out an established campground with lots of shade, we decided against staying, because of two territorial dogs that had free range of the grounds. This would not be a stress-free stay, so we opted to free camp along the muddy river again.
After another day of researching flights for this summer (and eventually buying tickets!), we met up with Shani, Todd, and dog Sebastian from the US at their rented cabaña. We had a lovely evening together with these world travelers; there were many stories and similar (dog) experiences to share! Regrettably, on that particular Saturday night, a loud party with a DJ took place right across from us, until 5am. Then, the smoke of burned trash took over.
The following morning, we met our new friends again in town to shop for fresh produce and, somehow, it was 5:30pm by the time we returned home! This second meet-up had extended into a tour of Bella, enjoying a wonderful shower at their casita, giving Maya a quick bath on their patch of grass, going out for a tasty lunch, and the discovery and enjoyment of Torrontes white wine, a specialty of this area.
Before leaving Tilcara, we attempted a few errands, all of which failed. The exchange rate for dollars was worse than ever before, the lines at the ATM were even longer than anywhere else, we didn’t find a decent vet for Maya’s next rabies shot, and – to top it all off – our girl was attacked again by an aggressive loose dog. This was when we wondered what the hype about Argentina was all about… Surely, it would get better further south.
Road workers called us over to ask for potable water.
Termal de Reyes
Mark and I needed to find a camp spot where we could sleep, as our exhaustion was building and our moods were deteriorating. The first two sites didn’t work out, due to low-hanging wires and narrow roads with obtrusive tree branches. We had to turn around and reach option #3 via a different route.
The grassy parking lot of the Reyes Hot Springs was hot, but relatively level and situated along a rushing river. Here, we worked, researched, and slept well, before moving on to Salta (which I wrote a separate blog post about). Of course, it was way too hot and humid to actually indulge in the termales.
Cachi
The road between Ruta 68 and Cachi was stunning. Since we had experienced a super long day in Salta, we stopped for the night at a slightly higher elevation, before continuing on towards our next destination, which would become our favorite in Northern Argentina.
Our bodies and minds craved an easy day and night at the same location, but because of the heat (our fridge running constantly to keep up) and the heavy use of battery power for our computers, our energy supply had gotten too low to “sit” longer. We had to move on to charge the camper battery.
We parked at the edge of Cachi, by the river, in full sunshine, to retain and gain electricity. Surprisingly, even at this higher elevation (8,000ft/2,500m), it was still uncomfortably hot. We really appreciated this spot, because it was easy to reach the shady central square, my favorite bakery, trash cans, and the mercado.
Our little family managed to slow down. We spent a total of six days here, with a quick side trip to a vineyard recommended by Shani and Todd. In Cachi itself, we enjoyed walks in town, drinking wine at bodegas, and an interesting take-out pizza dinner. Restaurants open late in Argentina (usually not before 8pm), which makes eating out, other than the price, not too attractive for us.
One early morning, Maya’s walk consisted of a climb to a cemetery and viewpoint over Cachi and its wineries. We really liked the laid-back atmosphere of this area.
When attempting to reach certain places in our camper, we never know if we will make it, due to (unmarked) height and width restrictions. The plan was to stay at a cool-sounding camping area next to a river in the desert just outside of Cachi and stop by the Puna winery to check menus and prices.
Driving further into the mountains
Yes, this bodega was located in a beautiful valley and we were interested in having a late lunch or early dinner there (they close at 6pm), with a bottle of Torrontes wine. But we wanted to make sure we could camp, so we kept driving uphill. The road turned narrower and narrower. At some point, we stopped to walk the last bit and to determine Thirsty Bella could not cross the river and squeeze into the tight campground with tiny, shady, unlevel spots.
Maya had fun in the water and then, we backtracked with our vehicle and pulled off alongside this dusty, quiet road to sleep among the cacti. The surroundings were pretty and our walks back to the river pleasant. But, imagine our surprise when people walked by at 3am in the morning, followed by noisy motorcycles. The only reason for waking up at this ungodly hour – in the pitch black – must be to work at a farm or vineyard…
The lack of peace and abundance of dust made us move back to Cachi, where hundreds of flies kept us company. But first, we splurged with an early dinner at Bodega Puna. We opted for a couple of glasses of wine each instead of sharing a bottle, since the price was the same and this way, we could try four different grapes. Even here, on the patio, we were greeted by loose, barking dogs, but the puppies among them shaped up and even kept Maya company later on.
The pond
The drive up and over the mountain pass to return the way we came was quite tricky as fog enveloped the higher surroundings. Without visibility, views were nonexistent, progress was slow, and our focus was intense, especially when a big tour bus approached on the narrow and windy gravel road.
We reached Dique Puerta de Diez park for a few calm days. The most remote spots along this pond were out of reach for our tall, wide camper, so we settled in a more accessible and popular patch of dirt. A caretaker lived close by. He had twelve dogs, many of which hung out with us during the day and at night. The non-shy ones got along okay with Maya, but they were super skinny and hungry.
It was here that I managed to finally work and write a bunch, did research about our potential route, and finished proofreading and reviewing a friend’s book. Our biggest question of the moment was: Which direction would we travel? Back into Chile? East to Paraguay? Or – extremely slowly – southeast towards Buenos Aires, Argentina, from where we will fly out in June?
Maya helps me with work
Los Estratos
The scenery along Ruta 68 remained appealing, so we made a few touristy stops and decided to camp near Los Estratos.
To avoid the heat of the day, Mark, Maya, and I waited until 5:30pm to follow the trail through this rocky, colorful, and free park.
Los Colorados
We had an early start for the same reason: This time, we wanted to hike in the Los Colorados area before the sun got too high and strong. We succeeded and finished our explorations just as the clouds separated above the rock formations.
Cafayate
The town of Cafayate is well-liked by fellow overlanders. We wild camped next to a convenient, green, and relatively clean park with only a few loose dogs. Semana Santa (the Holy Week before Easter) made the area extra busy and loud, so sleep was difficult to come by.
As always, we had errands to run. The propane place refused to fill our tank, but a helpful mechanic managed to repair the leaking valve of our spare tire. This was our second attempt to fix this issue. Fingers crossed it holds air now!
Mark and I had looked forward to visiting a few bodegas and vineyards in Cafayate. Our first three attempts in town failed, so we ended up savoring a bottle of wine in the grass next to our camper, until the smell of dog poop sent us inside. That night, the fumes of trash being burned overpowered the screeching sounds of passing motorcycles. Luckily, conditions improved.
We managed to get our laundry done for an affordable price and – after a long, sweaty walk – enjoyed the grounds of Cabra de Cafayate, a (goat) cheese farm in the countryside. As expected, we had to fend off a lot of stray dogs with our spray bottle. To be honest, this town has had the biggest population of loose dogs we have ever encountered. It was even worse than Uyuni, Bolivia.
Fortunately, Maya did not get attacked again, but we were all aghast when joining a free wine tour at a vineyard and being approached by two aggressive dogs underground, in the wine cellars, while on this tour! Nobody claimed or restrained the dogs, so we left and – again – opted to skip other bodega excursions to instead drink one of the bottles of white we had just bought.
We left Maya home more often, especially when running errands and once when dining out. I can see the attraction of Cafayate during a quieter time of the year and when traveling without a dog. The square was green and cute and the food and wine we tried was delicious.
Tafi del Valle
After all the desertscapes, reaching Tafi del Valley in the green mountains felt like a breath of fresh air! Since it was Easter Weekend, we checked out the lawn of an Argentinian who welcomes overlanders. While he had a parking spot available, we declined staying in his fenced yard, because his five small dogs didn’t stop barking when we introduced Maya and one of his cats attacked our girl in the face. We opted to park outside his property, along the gravel road, after inquiring if the neighbors would be fine with this. He said, “No problem!”
The following morning, we walked to the center of Tafi and took in the weekend atmosphere at the park. Friends and families were sharing their mate. It is an Argentinian tradition to carry a thermos with hot water and a full mate cup with a straw at all times. Some people own an entire travel kit, which lives by their side. Since arriving in the country, Mark and I wanted to try this herbal drink.
When I spotted a couple on a bench next to a table with mate ingredients and four white stools, I concluded that they were selling mate. So, I inquired about the price of a cup and was met by a quizzical look. I explained that my husband and I were curious about trying the national beverage. The woman started smiling and soon stuffed her cup with two kinds of leaves and sweetener, before topping it up with hot water and passing it to me! It was sweeter than I anticipated of this “acquired taste;” the resulting Spanish conversations were at least as pleasant as sampling this special drink.
A massive wind gust had flipped our awning backwards and caused two rips in the fabric. When adding tape after our walk to town, we were met by a neighbor, who claimed that our camper blocked her view. Since she didn’t seem happy with our presence, we left early afternoon.
El Mollar
We don’t like confrontations and we don’t like to be chased off when camping, but the alternative spot we found was so much better! During the busiest time of this long weekend, we had our own garden with grass, a rushing stream, and visiting cows, horses, and happy families having a picnic.
When the cooler, sunny weather turned into a cover of fog, which didn’t clear after a day and a night, we decided to leave this area. On our drive out of El Mollar town, we swung by Menhir Park for a look at 2,000-year-old stone pillars that had been found and collected near the river.
San Juan
A few long days of driving followed. Mark and I had formed a plan. Paraguay was still too hot this time of the year, so we would head back into Chile. Instead of making a big loop again, which would cost another fortune in fuel, we opted for a smaller circuit near its capital, Santiago, easily reached from Mendoza. But first, we stopped by Bodega El Milagro for a night.
This was an amazing stop we would recommend to any overlander. Juan, the owner of the vineyard, is welcoming, friendly, and artistic. He is a man with a vision! Not only are his wines tasty and affordable, he also has a shop that sells cold cuts and different cheeses. The highlight for us was the meditation building that he had designed and built, pretty much with world peace in mind.
He was happy for us to spend the night, which allowed us to roam the grounds and visit this incredible spiritual space freely.
And then, a super friendly family filled our propane tank in town and we continued our drive to Central Chile…
This 89-year-old man in San Juan and his family were happy to help us with our propane needs!
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
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April 21, 2024 at 15:34
It is unfortunate that a heritage of unchecked spending and generally bad governments which among other things defaulted on international debts left many Argentinians the feeling they deserved everything and should not have to pay for anything. Since we had a wonderful visit some years ago, my wife has tracked their exchange rate. The inflation rate has been unbelievable: about 17 pesos to the dollar [bought over the border in Punta Del Este] and today at about 870. If you had it hard, imagine the life of their people.
April 21, 2024 at 15:46
Yeah, the inflation has been insane in Argentina. Until recently, I only read about countries where this happens, so being in the midst of it makes you realize the extent of it.
Of course, we feel bad for the locals and we actually fear that this might not end well. Prices are the same for Argentinians and for tourists (apart from some entrance fees and restaurants), but their income hasn’t gone up, while the prices have. So, this is super hard. While we don’t make much, it’s still more than the average Argentinian. And, we can leave and spend our money elsewhere if we please.
April 21, 2024 at 15:47
One of the people in my writing group recently returned from Guatemala. He talked a lot about the loose, barking dogs too. It sounded like there weren’t leash laws and he talked about having trouble sleeping because of the incessant noise.
April 21, 2024 at 16:08
Hi Pete,
Yeah, no leash laws in any of the Latin American countries. And, yes, the barking dogs get old, especially when you sleep in a fiberglass box, haha. It is really difficult to find peace and quiet except when being in nature. We never sleep well when we visit cities. Santiago de Chile is an exception!
April 21, 2024 at 18:03
Another “mixed bag” of experiences, but at least you had a few pleasant ones mixed in with the not-so-pleasant ones. Are you getting excited about your ‘vacation’ visit home?
April 21, 2024 at 18:30
P.S. The egg-and-fries ‘pizza’ made me shudder! I’m an adventurous eater, but there are some lines I won’t cross. 😉
April 22, 2024 at 18:01
Now, was it the eggs or the fries that put this one over the edge? 🙂
April 24, 2024 at 17:54
LOL! The fries, believe it or not. The fried eggs would have been fine, but those fries just look dry and hard and bland. Not what I want on my pizza. (Although I probably would have eaten the fries anyway if they came with some dipping sauce.) 🙂
April 25, 2024 at 19:26
Isn’t that funny. I remember looking at the photo afterwards and thinking that, if the fries would have been served separately with the pizza (and with mayonaise; yes, I’m a true Belgian), it would be much tastier and look more appetizing as well. Yet, as my mom would say, it all comes together in the stomach anyway… 🙂
April 22, 2024 at 18:00
Hi Diane,
I’m not one to get excited much as I’ve learned to not expect and anticipate, since that only leads to disappointments. In other words, I haven’t given our summer trip much thought. The break will be nice, but we are still planning, living, traveling, and figuring out things here every day. Those decisions are more eminent. And, we’ve been having some fun lately as well. 🙂
April 24, 2024 at 17:54
Hooray! I’m so glad you’re finally having some fun! 🙂
April 25, 2024 at 19:27
Thanks for the encouragement and sentiment! It’s nice to feel happier again, after a few tougher months. 🙂
April 21, 2024 at 18:43
interesting as always, Liesbet. Is Milei liked there as it sounds like he is in the US news? Sounds like he’s making improvements!
April 22, 2024 at 18:04
Ho Jacqui,
I think Milei’s changes and policies are definitely having an impact on life in Argentina. But it’s one of those things where time will tell. Everything is very expensive for the locals at the moment, so they are suffering from the inflation, especially since wages are not going up, but maybe in the long run, it’ll all be for the best?
April 21, 2024 at 20:11
Sorry the prices were so much higher.
Sounds like so many issues with dogs and traveling with one. Hopefully no more dog attacks.
April 22, 2024 at 18:05
Hi Alex,
We are constantly looking over our shoulders for loose dogs, which gets old. But, our recent break in Chile made that part easy, since all the owned dogs are on leash. 🙂
April 21, 2024 at 21:22
Sounds like Argentina ended better than it started. With so many challenges for months now, you must be looking forward to a short escape to Europe!
April 22, 2024 at 18:07
Hi Lexie,
Yes, you got that right. The more south we traveled in Argentina, the more relaxed we could be about Maya and about camping. I’m sure the country is growing on us! Especially the wines. 🙂
We are not giving our summer escape much thought at the moment. That will happen once we are on the plane. Too much to arrange beforehand, still, and we do want to keep enjoying this part of the trip as well.
April 21, 2024 at 22:24
A lot of adventure and a lot of great photos. I have never been to Argentina or South America. I am wondering about the coyote looking animal in the middle under the headline Cachi. I am pretty sure that is not Maya. What kind of animal is that?
April 22, 2024 at 18:09
Hi Thomas,
Thanks for swinging by. Yes, you are right. Those two photos of coyote-looking animals are, indeed, coyotes. There are captions with the photos, but you have to hover over them or clock on them to read those. I forgot to add that instruction message in this post.
April 22, 2024 at 00:45
I would think you must be chomping at the bit to fly away to Europe after some of the very negative experiences in northern Argentina. The incessant barking would drive me nuts after a while as would their disturbing your peace and quiet. But, on the bright side, so many of the bodegas and hikes looked fabulous. I hope they were enough to overcome the negatives, Thanks for including the highlighted map – it’s a big help seeing where your adventure is taking you.
April 22, 2024 at 18:14
Hi Annie,
You know, this life on the road is challenging but also exciting. Yes, I am looking forward to a few months where not everything is difficult, but we also like (most of) the adventures we have here. A lot is involved with our multiple-month “escape” to MA and Belgium, so that part we don’t look forward to. But, once we are on the plane, I think we will be able to let go of the stress a bit.
But, yes, the positives outweigh the negatives, still. We seem to go through periods and, I’m happy to say, at the moment we have reached an up again. 🙂
Sometimes, I just forget to add a little map. Thanks for the kudos about that.
April 22, 2024 at 18:01
I know it wasn’t a visit without problems, but hopefully you enjoyed it overall. The scenery is gorgeous!
April 22, 2024 at 18:15
Hi Anabel,
Argentina is growing on us. 🙂 We actually took a little two-week break in Santiago de Chile, which is more western, and are ready to explore Argentina again now. The Andes mountains are super pretty here.
April 22, 2024 at 20:07
I love your opening. I cannot tell you how many times we have placed high expectations on a location, only to be disappointed. We now try to have very low expectations and hope to be surprised. Interesting that you two keep finding these salt flats. Are there many of them in South America? You mention loose free-roaming dogs again… that BITE!. Hope Maya is OK. Damn! Not sure how we are going to handle Mexico later this year with our fear of seeing abandoned dogs and wanting to care for them. I have a hard time comprehending restaurants not opening until 8 pm. Shoot, that is close to my bedtime. ???? Why were you refused to fill your propane tank? That has happened to us a few times and they have always said they did not believe our recertification stamp. Any way, thanks for sharing! Jim
April 23, 2024 at 15:23
Hi Jim,
Yes, there are quite a few salars in South America, but none as big and mind-blowing as the one in Uyuni, Bolivia. I try not to look at photos of famous sites we plan to visit, for the same reason – to not have expectations. Much better this way. I guess we all learn that the hard way!
Except for Chile, I’d say 99% of the dogs that we have seen has been loose, meaning not leashed. Some have collars. And that’s the thing, many of these “stray dogs” are owned, but they are let out of the house/yard/patio in the morning to roam around freely – and protect their home and neighborhood from people and other dogs! – and let back inside at night.
When they stay outside at night, that’s when most of the incessant barking happens that prevents us from sleeping. Some places are better than others. But, understandably, we prefer nature to towns when it comes to boondocking and sleeping!
I’m happy to learn that you are finally headed for Mexico! I assume that you are visiting in Beauty and with Pico? Good thing he’s so small, as you could easily pick him up or walk around dense towns with him in a backpack. If only we could do that with Maya!
We are having a hard time with the late opening times of restaurants in Argentina, since we are usually done dining at home by 8pm, including the dishes. At that time, we are ready to relax and prep for bed. 🙂
The propane filling refusal has nothing to do with recertification for us. They don’t care about any of that in Latin America. It’s about wanting to help or not in Argentina, since we don’t need an adaptor here. That woman was staring at her phone the entire time, barely looking up when we entered her shop, and then she used the excuse she couldn’t help us because of the connection of the hose. Bullshit!
In some countries, they just refuse filling tanks as their system consists of just swapping, and in other countries you do need an adaptor to get your own propane tank refilled. None of this is an issue in Mexico, since they use the same fittings as US tanks.
April 23, 2024 at 08:59
Glad to see you guys making your way through Argentina one bottle at a time. Good wine makes trials tollerable. So sorry poor Maya is always in the crosshairs of roaming packs of wayward dogs. Love your smile while tasting mate for the first time. Where will you store Thirsty Bella when you fly home?
April 23, 2024 at 15:28
Haha, Suzanne, that’s right, we are heading south one bottle at a time. Whether it’s in Argentina or Chile! 🙂 We are really hoping – and thinking – the loose dog problem will improve as we head further south on the continent for two reasons: the towns should be more westernized and there will be more natural areas and less cities. But, that’s mainly for when we return from our “summer trip.”
We don’t have anything booked regarding storage yet, but I have a few leads in Buenos Aires. That being said, Mark and I are aware of potential accelerating economical issues and protests in the capital and the country, which might culminate into chaos by the time we return to Argentina. For that reason, we are looking into storing Thirsty Bella in Uruguay as well.
April 23, 2024 at 13:02
Wow, sounds like some magnificent touring. Thank you for sharing your stories and pics and giving us a tiny taste of South America. But I don’t like that wild dogs should be at a tour spot, unleashed. There is a lot of that in Mexico too. 🙂 <3
April 23, 2024 at 15:32
Hi Debby,
We are finally making some headway south on this continent. But, now we are paused as this (the line between Santiago, Chile, and Buenos Aires, Argentina) is as far south as we want to be during the chilly fall here. During the next austral summer (your winter), we aim for Patagonia.
Compared to South America, the loose dog problem in Mexico (at least on the Baja Peninsula) was a dream! Most aggressive dogs we encountered in Mexico with Maya are barking and growling a lot, but behind fences and gates. That being said, the two times I’ve been bitten by loose dogs have been in Mexico. 🙁
April 24, 2024 at 07:47
Oh wow Liesbet. I assume you had rabie shots? x
April 24, 2024 at 12:30
Nope. Those are hard to come by, expensive, and time consuming. But, luckily, the skin never broke, so I didn’t worry about it. A good friend of ours got bitten with blood draw in Lima, Peru, and needed to get three rabies shots with month-long intervals, administered in different countries.
April 25, 2024 at 11:46
Wow. Oh I thought you may have had that shot while in the US before you set off to SA. Stay safe! <3
April 25, 2024 at 19:29
Hi Debby,
Some people do get the rabies shot ahead of time in the US (good friends of ours did, but they actually just told us that they’d still need extra shots if they’d be bitten abroad and the skin would be broken), but for us, this was cost prohibitive. A bit risky, maybe, but I’m counting on finding a health clinic with the “antidote” vaccine within 24 hours if needed. We can cover a lot of ground in our car if need be.
April 23, 2024 at 13:03
Argentina’s scenery looks nice in your photos. I’m glad you’ve been enjoying Argentinian wines and made a ‘getaway’ to Chile before exploring more of Argentina. I enjoyed both countries when I visited them. There’s plenty of hiking opportunities with spectacular scenery in the Andes, not far from Santiago at all. Safe travels to you, Mark and Maya!
April 23, 2024 at 15:35
Hi Natalie,
I can totally understand why you enjoyed Chile and Argentina so much. The drives and scenery in the Andes Mountains is stunning! Today, we returned to Argentina from Santiago under a bright-blue sky and had a few glimpses of Aconcagua topped with snow. So impressive. Yet, knowing that this tallest mountain of the Southern and Western Hemisphere dwarves the giants of Asia is humbling! It was a super scenic drive and border crossing.
April 24, 2024 at 05:07
I can’t believe you have already reached Argentina!! Life seems to be moving on far too fast.
Agree with you, high expectations usually leads to disappointments. But I don’t think overall this part of your trip is anything but disappointing. You have seen some amazing things, it probably cancels out the annoying bits.
I have heard that Argentina is not cheap, but knowing you, I bet you still going to accomplish a wonderful trip within your budget ????
April 24, 2024 at 12:27
Hi Gilda,
While it felt we were going super slow the first year of this SA trip, now we finally made some progress south. But can you believe that we have been on the continent for a year and a half already? Speaking of which, do you have any Brazil trips planned this year or the next?
And, yes, with every new year, time seems to go faster. It’s a funny thing! Argentina is – in general – cheaper than Chile for the day to day items and activities (but we did drive back to Chile to buy imported parts like tires, a car battery, and oil as that’s cheaper there). The issue is the fuel. We can’t get around that.
Eating out we still keep to a minimum and sightseeing with high entrance fees as well. By cooking at home all the time, sharing bottles of wine in Bella, and camping for free every night, we do save heaps of money, even in Argentina. 🙂
April 25, 2024 at 21:36
A meditation hut with world peace in mind, and a gorgeous dog who helps you with your computer work….all piled atop of incredible adventure? No wonder I am a huge fan of your writing and your incredible blog!
April 30, 2024 at 15:06
You are too kind, Donna! But, you are right, we do stumble across some real treasures once in a while! Thanks for continuing to follow along! I hope spring is gracing you with some lovely weather.
April 26, 2024 at 05:45
Isn’t it amazing how a trip over the boarder can bring so much difference in roads, people, drivers and dogs that roam freely. I guess it’s all down to how the economy of those countries are. The inflation rate in Argentina is frightening, Liesbet.
There was a lot of wine drinking in this post, but I don’t blame you given that it all sounds so nice and is not that expensive. The noise, burning of trash and dangerous dogs is such a shame, though. But the scenery and those lovely refreshing running streams look amazing. I’m glad Maya got to play in the water, but sorry to hear she got attacked again. I felt for her when looking at the photo where she was refusing to budge. Please give her a big hug from me.
April 30, 2024 at 15:11
Hello Hugh,
Since publishing that last post about Northern Argentina, we hopped across the border and back once again. For some reason, Chile has been resonating with us, particularly because we seemed to be ready for a strong economical nation. Now, back in Argentina, we feel the country has the potential to grow on us. But, winter is approaching fast.
Whenever we can find camping spots in nature, all three of us do better. So, we have focused on that, this last week. And, we even met some friendly loose dogs as well. Maya says “thank you” for the big hug!
May 1, 2024 at 07:40
I’d forgotten that winter was approaching the part of the world you now in, Liesbet. But it’s good to hear that Argentina is growing on you and that some friendly loose dogs have also appeared.
May 3, 2024 at 07:45
It’s getting colder and colder, Hugh. We might have to head a bit more north again, before flying back to the US/Europe in June.