Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Author: Liesbet (page 1 of 64)

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – January 2025 (Argentina & Chile)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

My apologies for posting two expense reports in a row, but we have been very busy driving, sightseeing, and dealing with the demands of life on the road. I returned from Antarctica a month ago and I still haven’t had time to organize my 1,000 photos and videos. That highlight post will take days to create and it’s already the second half of February, so first: our expenses for January 2025!

Mark, Maya, and I spent January in Thirsty Bella, split between Argentina and Chile. The first part of the month, we explored the bottom of the world. Then, I “cruised” to Antarctica for ten days. From the moment I disembarked again, we left Ushuaia and traveled north, crossing Tierra del Fuego and entering Chile. We finished back in Argentina. During these exploits, we paid $500 for fuel.

The car category was the highest, as always. In addition to fuel, we handed over $10 for a self-serve carwash in Ushuaia after driving on wet gravel roads for weeks and 7,000 CLP ($7) went to a tire repair center when entering Chile. It was the exact amount of cash we had left from a previous visit. Lucky!

What was not lucky was how we happened upon this tire puncture… I swear, you can’t make this up. On that first night after leaving Ushuaia, we camped along a remote dirt road in Tierra del Fuego. All the rattling had loosened a screw from our camper, which had fallen on the ground and landed in our track. You guessed it… We backed up onto the screw and discovered a flat front tire in the morning!

The tire repair kit we purchased in the US didn’t work. We had to solve the issue before the strong Patagonia winds started, which would make it unsafe to jack up the car. Mark succeeded in putting the spare tire on in an efficient manner and after an hour (30 minutes wasted on trying to insert a plug first), we were back on the road. Good thing we didn’t have a ferry reservation!

Groceries cost the same as last month ($366) – we finally discovered decent produce in Punta Arenas, Chile, and its cost was half than in Argentina – and we cooked pretty much all our meals as per the usual.

We managed to find another bag of Maya’s special dog food (salmon-based without chicken) in the same city. That stuff is pricy at $100, but it’s a big bag (18kg/40lbs), which should last two to three months, depending on us adding brown rice to her diet. We embraced this particular bag, since it was the last available one in the city!

Our utilities category was higher than usually. The monthly Starlink subscription ($40; the other half is paid by our business) and propane gas ($13) were similar to other months and all our potable water was free, but I spent an extra $35 for internet access on the MV Ushuaia to communicate with Mark. This was a high fee, since I only planned to send one WhatsApp message per day, but it was the lowest amount of data I could buy. This service was through Starlink as well, which meant Mark and I were chatting solely via satellites.

We had medical expenses of $79, since we were both due for teeth cleanings. It was easier spending this money than planning around dentist schedules, as we were both sick and camped at a lovely spot across from the spires of Torres del Paine in Chile. We had to postpone the appointment once.

I believe our alcohol cost ($64) was similar to last month, except, this time we focused on liquor instead of wine. Punta Arenas in Chile – a shopping paradise after dealing with little food availability and high prices for months in Argentina – has a duty-free area, so we stocked up on special booze like coconut rum, Amarula, Tito’s vodka, and 7-year-old Flor de Caña rum. Each of these bottles cost less than $14 apiece. If you know anything about rum – and our favorite brand – you’ll agree this is awesome. Ironically, Mark and I stuck to a mostly “dry January,” which means we still have all of this alcohol! It’ll last a while. 😊

There was a “drinking out” category for January as well. All me. I treated my roommate to a shot of old-fashioned, Argentinian “Old Smuggler” whisky, enjoyed one traditional, Chilean pisco sour, and shared a bottle of red Malbec with table mates on the ship. This added up to $25. You only live once!

Mark, Maya, and I took a $20, 30-minute ferry with Thirsty Bella, leaving Tierra del Fuego to return to mainland South America. We managed to just drive on without waiting. Thanks to that time spent on our flat tire, probably.

As is becoming habit, we washed most of our laundry by hand in January. And, while it is summer here, I can assure you that the glacial river water is freezing cold. Sheets, towels, and jeans were dropped off and picked up clean and fresh in El Chalten, Argentina, for $15.

Mark and I paid entrance fees ($13) for Glacier National Park in Argentina, to witness the incredible Perito Moreno glacier. That will be for a future blog post. Other hikes and excursions were free.

The last category is “gifts.” I bought myself a magnet with our route through Antarctic waters when I was on the expedition ship. I couldn’t resist.

My Antarctica magnet; the only souvenir I bought on this trip.

Actually, the three of us enjoyed two take-out dinners as well, both from the same place, a “bakery” in Puerto Natales, Chile. Their burgers and seafood empanadas were delicious! We used the last of our donation money (except for a special occasion one we are still saving) for these splurges.

Oh, and we camped for free everywhere in January. It was a mixed bag of quiet and not-so-peaceful nights.

And that wraps up a decent month, financially. We stayed under our average of $1,300, probably because I left for ten days and Mark stayed put in Ushuaia during that time.

Early drive through Torres del Paine National park – a freebie

January 2025 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $481; maintenance: $17):

Groceries:

Dog (dog food):

Utilities (Internet: $75; propane: $13):

Medical (dentist):

Alcohol:

Drinking out:

Transportation (ferry Chile):

Laundry:

Entertainment (Perito Moreno glacier):

Gift:

Dining out:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$498

$366

$100

$88

$79

$64

$25

$20

$15

$13

$5

$0

$0

———

$ 1,273

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Antarctica! (Hopefully.)

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Annual Expense Report of a Nomad – 2024 (Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, USA, Belgium, Uruguay)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. “The less money you spend, the less you need to make” is our motto. 🙂 At the beginning of each year, I produce an expense report for the previous 12 months. This is the most recent one, for 2024.

Our first yearly expense report (2016) can be found here, the report of 2017 is here, the one for 2018 here, our 2019 expenses are located here, our total costs for 2020 are documented here, those for 2021 are detailed here, 2022’s financial summary hides here, and you can find our full expense report for 2023 here.

These reports include ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and a 60-pound dog. We adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019. Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups, we both return to the US East Coast. The internet cost is for our Starlink’s monthly subscription fees. We bought our satellite dish in Lima, Peru, in September 2023.

In 2024, Mark, Maya, and I drove from Bolivia to South America’s tip, passing through Uruguay, Chile, and Argentina in our truck camper Thirsty Bella. We also took a three-month break from the road in Massachusetts, USA and Belgium.

On this multiple-year South American overland journey, which started in November 2022, so far we visited Colombia for six months, Ecuador for three, Peru for five, and Bolivia for a month and a half.  We continued with a couple of months in Chile, a month in Uruguay, and about eight months in Argentina. That’s a lot of driving.

So, it is no surprise that the biggest expense category for last year was, once again, our vehicle ($6,248!), with $3,587 going to fuel.

Maintaining the F350 truck cost over $2,000, since we had a $600 spark plug issue in Buenos Aires, we bought four brand-new tires in Chile, and we keep on buying new ignition coils, generic ones in Bolivia and better ones in the US.

Furthermore, liability insurance for the MERCOSUR countries, obtained in Argentina, tripled within four months ($412) and we paid $123 in parking fees and $68 for tolls. Yup, Thirsty drank a lot of money in 2024!

More than $3,000 went to groceries, which was a couple of hundred dollars more than last year. I guess we can blame the insane inflation in Argentina for that. Although, because of it, we only buy necessities. We hope that wherever we spend the bulk of our time this year, life will be cheaper.

The travel category was a big one ($2,357), because the three of us flew to both our home countries, an extremely rare occasion. We enjoyed this break from the road, since we’ve been roaming about fulltime for 21 years now. This amount bought us return flights from Buenos Aires, Argentina, to Boston, MA, and from Boston to Brussels, Belgium, plus one checked bag for the last leg.

Maya had her most expensive year as well at over $1,200. Not because she got sick, however. All those international health certificates and export permits added up, especially when two of them had to be obtained in the US. Our little family flying “home” is not only logistically challenging…

In 2024, Mark and I also purchased high-quality dogfood for $300 and pet supplies for $134, and gave vet clinics $130.

Our alcohol expenses remained similar to 2023 at around $600. We mostly bought decent, local wines at $4 a bottle.

Money spent on gifts ($554) went up a bunch, because there was a wedding present involved, on top of the usual birthday and Christmas gifts. And, Mark and I offered my parents thank-you tickets for a musical as well, because they were super generous over the summer.

Computer costs ($548) include keyboards and hard drives, a new tablet for the car, another router for Bella, hosting fees, and software. Leave it to Mark to find the best deals for all of this.

We spent only 1/3 of last year’s amount on dining out ($478). You can definitely blame the insane increase of prices in Argentina for that. Plus, we received donations for this splurge as well, some of which I am saving for 2025. I have to admit that because of our frugal attitude towards restaurants, our quality of life feels like it has gone down. Way more cooking and dishes and fatigue!

Utilities, camper repairs, clothing, and household supplies were on par with 2023.

Internet, propane gas, and water are necessities in life. For our interior, we could use a new DC-DC charger and a bathroom faucet, as well as household batteries, poop bags, sheets, and wine glasses. We also bought a jerry can to carry extra fuel.

The entertainment category wasn’t high, at $234, since we’ve been avoiding the steep national park entrance fees in Argentina and Chile and focused on free activities, like hiking, and more affordable visits. The most expensive excursion we booked in 2024 was an amazing day trip on the Salar (salt flats) of Uyuni, Bolivia.

As far as yearly clothing for two people, we didn’t go overboard. New hiking shoes, shorts, and jeans for Mark and two pairs of pants for me cost $134 in total.  The only reason the “Health & Fitness” category went up was our increased awareness and actions towards improved dental hygiene. We bought a water flosser, an electric toothbrush, and better toothpaste.

Transportation covers the use of Uber, cable cars, and taxis when we were camped on the outskirts of cities and our annual bank charge was a bit higher than before, because of a mistake with a (usually free) ATM fee.

I’m not sure if $100 a year for laundry is expensive, but, since drop-off prices in Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay are super high, we have been washing more and more clothes by hand, saving a lot of money. Self-serve machines in South America are very rare.

Mark and I only paid for camping once in 2024, which is hard to believe. Ten nights of fees went to Zapparancho ($83) near Buenos Aires, Argentina, because we needed a base to get ready for life on the road again after our summer break. And, we needed to fix a few things in a convenient location. This was also a good place to donate a lot of clothes and gear we didn’t use anymore.

Mark and I had bloodwork done in Bolivia, which makes up the $74 for medical costs. The miscellaneous category includes things like a voluntary contribution for being towed out of the sand in Northern Chile and an assortment of copies.

Getting towed out of the sand after a frightful twelve hours in Northern Chile

Another amount that has decreased a lot in 2024 is “drinking out.” Again, with current prices in bars and restaurants soaring, we are just as happy to have a drink at home. Especially since, surprise, decent bottles of wine in Argentina have remained very affordable.

I want to mention two more things in this expense report. First, thank you to everyone who has contributed a donation. We really appreciate this. Not only does it lower our annual costs, but it makes us smile and realize that you appreciate these blog posts and following along with our adventures.

Our only dinner out (with a friend) during our five weeks in Ushuaia

And, to be completely transparent, there was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and cost for me, Liesbet, at the end of 2024. I paid for a ten-day trip to Antarctica in January, which I will report on soon. It was super expensive, but as cheap as possible. I spent $5,752 on the “cruise” ticket with money I had saved up in Belgium, which is why it’s not reflected in our annual budget. This includes a $15 bank fee and $37 for mandatory insurance.

In conclusion, our 2024 total of $16,661 is a little bit higher than our $16K average of the last two decades. This boils down to just under $1,400 a month. Let’s see what 2025 brings!

2024 Overview:

Car (fuel: $3,587; maintenance: $2,057;

insurance: $412; parking: $123; tolls: 68):

Groceries:

Travel (plane tickets):

Dog (permits: $658; food: $299; supplies: $134; vet: $130):

Alcohol:

Gifts (B-days, Christmas, wedding):

Computer (hardware: $355; hosting: $127; software: $66):

Dining out:

Utilities (internet: $336; prop.: $73; water: $13; Skype: $5):

Camper:

Entertainment:

Health & Fitness (haircuts, vitamins, teeth hygiene):

Household:

Clothing:

Transportation (Uber, taxis):

Bank fees (Chase visa card):

Laundry:

Camping:

Medical:

Drinking out:

Miscellaneous (towing, copies):

 

TOTAL:

Donations:

 

GRAND TOTAL:

 

 

$6,248

$3,087

$2,357

$1,221

$595

$554

$548

$478

$427

$417

$234

$153

$144

$134

$131

$102

$97

$83

$74

$67

$27

———

$ 16,944

– $ 283

———

$ 16,661

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

And that’s a wrap! If you are enjoying these posts and would like to help out with our expenses maintaining this blog, please click on the donate button underneath, in the side bar, or in the menu bar on top. I promise Roaming About will remain an ad-free website. Thank you!

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Antarctica! (Or the January 2025 expense report.)

Donate to Roaming About to help maintain this website.

Unparalleled Ushuaia – The End of the World

Mark and I were not looking forward to arriving in Ushuaia, Argentina, after entering the island of Tierra del Fuego and enjoying its stark beauty, but less so, its strong winds. It was an irrational fear. Not because reaching the “end of the world” was daunting; it’s never the end of the road for us.

Ushuaia – More attractive than we expected

We stalled, because Ushuaia is a city and we don’t like staying or running errands in cities. They are loud, busy, congested, and annoying. Ushuaia did not offer a different experience – we hated driving around and not finding parking – but… its surroundings were extraordinary, unexpected, and jaw-droppingly beautiful.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

We were soon drawn to the views and the hikes and ended up staying for five weeks. Mark anyway. I went on a little side adventure, while he and Maya patiently braved the strong winds and heavy downpours for those ten extra days. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Before reaching Ushuaia proper and the so-called end of the road, we attempted a loop hike in the mountains. That circuit didn’t work out (no signs or paths were detected), but the trail to Twin Lakes still offered a bit of exercise, peace, and mud for all three of us.

Ushuaia

Upon arrival, mid-December, we had to pose by the Ushuaia sign, of course, like thousands of other overlanders have done. For many, this is a serious milestone as they will have driven the entire Pan-American highway from Alaska to Ushuaia. It means their epic road trip and journey has come to an end. Most of them rush to a port from here to ship their vehicle back home, or they sell it in Argentina or Chile after 6-12 months on the continent. It took Mark, Maya, Thirsty Bella, and me exactly two years to get here from Cartagena, Colombia!

Our arrival dread changed into excitement upon witnessing this sign and the mountainous surroundings. The innumerous white caps on the famous Beagle Channel, coloring the water more white than blue, was a telltale of how windy this area gets. We better got used to it from the start!

The first plan of action, even before running errands, was to find a decent spot to replace our rear brakes. On day one in Ushuaia, we took the camper off our truck and Mark started this day-long project, while I stood by for assistance. The wind and dust weren’t helping and – of course – something had to go wrong.

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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – December 2024 (Argentina & Chile)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

Mark, Maya, and I spent the entire month of December with Thirsty Bella in Argentina, apart from two days in Chile during which we only paid for a ferry.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

True to form, the car category was the highest, with about $500 going to fuel to cover the 700-mile (1,000km) distance from Puerto San Julian to Ushuaia and then exploring the southern tip of the continent in earnest. As you will notice in an upcoming post, Ushuaia has a lot to offer!

Over $150 went to maintenance for our truck. Mark finally bought a complete repair manual for our 2016 Ford F350, since we try to do all engine work ourselves. We shopped locally for brake cleaner and a C-clamp in order to replace our rear brakes. Of course, during that process, we faced an issue when one of the brake caliper pins appeared to be seized.

After trying to get the part unstuck with heat, twisting, and banging, Mark managed to remove the caliper and – after more attempts to loosen the pin – I wrapped it and hitched a ride with our friends to town, where I enlisted the help of a mechanic to separate the parts. It didn’t look promising, but after an hour of blasting heat, banging, and some mate drinking, Edgardo from Gato Garage in Ushuaia succeeded to separate the caliper pin. Cost: $50.

Mark also ordered two new sets of caliper pins in the US, to start fresh in the future. We used the pristine ones we brought to finish the brake job.

The camper and the truck are united again.

The grocery category was less than last month. Prices in Argentina are still soaring, but the exchange rate against the USD is improving and we didn’t splurge as much as other years for our Christmas and New Year’s Eve dinners.

We cooked and ate all but one of our meals at home in December, including special dinners on Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve.

My annual tradition in December is to create calendars for dear family members. Every month of the year has a page-size photo of Mark and me (and, ideally, Maya as well) in different locations of our travels. It has proven to be a perfect gift for loved ones and, this way, we are somewhat close by.

Sunset at 10:30pm or so on Christmas Day

As mentioned before, throughout December, Mark moved all our email addresses, domain names, and webhosting services to different companies. What prompted this mammoth task was BlueHost’s annual rates going through the roof, with the three-year subscription more than doubling in price.

Mark dealt for weeks with switching our hosting, domain, and email services.

Because of the research and switch, this blog has become cheaper to maintain and should load quicker with Easy WP. The sign-on year is affordable ($20), but prices will go up to about $100 a year. We also paid the annual fees for our email hosting ($10) and the other $30 went to our domain registrations for 2026, as we had already paid for 2025, which was transferred. We hope to recover the fees for Roaming About blog maintenance through donations within the next three years. One person already helped out, so our thanks go to MD.

Now for the less boring stuff… We stocked up on wine and beer for the holidays ($55), paid for half of our monthly Starlink satellite internet subscription (the other half is paid by our business), and topped up our propane tank. This happens more frequently now, since we run our heater quite a bit in the cold south. Even though it is summer!

To enter the island of Tierra del Fuego, we needed to hop on a ferry in Chile and cross the Strait of Magellan. The $21 ride lasted about half an hour. Just enough time to cue and pay for the privilege. Hence the transportation category in December.

I am going on a “solo” adventure in January, which I will detail in our annual expense report for 2024, and for this, I needed warm, waterproof pants. Our friend, Jeff, could miss a pair, so I bought them from him.

Layering up for my 10-day expedition to…

We lucked out with laundry last month by finding the cheapest laundromat of Argentina in Rio Gallegos. Because of this, we dropped off four baskets of clothes and linen and had about everything we own washed, dried, and somewhat folded for $13. If only we’d pass through again on our way back north!

And, because we had to cross through a small part of Chile to reach Ushuaia, Maya needed another health certificate from a registered vet in Argentina, plus an official international permit from the agricultural department SENASA. The trick to save money here is time. If you want this permit on the day of application, it costs $40. To retrieve it the following day, you hand over $20. And, if you are willing to wait three business days, the cost drops to $2! Guess what we did?

Another vet office visit to obtain paperwork for Maya in Rio Gallegos

Mark went to a bar with our friend, Jeff, one afternoon, hence the drinking out category, and the three of us enjoyed a decent meal at the same “pub” (La Cabaña) in Ushuaia after a streneous hike in the mountains. Mark and I used “old” donation money for our burger dinner and accompanying drinks. It had been a long time since we found eating out worthwhile in Argentina! Thank you, MB and MD for this lovely splurge!

All our hikes and entertainment last month turned out to be free activities.

Filling our water tank with potable water came without a cost as well – at fuel stations or the fire station (los bomberos).

We didn’t pay for camping in December and I am happy to report that most of those sites were pretty, quiet, and peaceful. Yes, we are enjoying Ushuaia! 😊

December 2024 turned out to be an average month regarding our expenses.

Note: I will be (mostly) offline for the next ten days, so I won’t be able to reply to comments here and on Facebook until I return. Thank you for being patient! 

December 2024 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $502; maintenance: $160):

Groceries:

Gifts (family calendars):

Computer (web hosting & domain fees):

Alcohol:

Utilities (Starlink internet: $40; propane: $11):

Transportation (ferry Chile):

Clothing (warm pants Liesbet):

Laundry:

Dog (vet: $10; permit: $2):

Drinking out:

Dining out:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$662

$364

$78

$60

$55

$51

$21

$20

$13

$12

$10

$0

$0

———

$ 1,346

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Unexpected Ushuaia

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Wind and Wildlife in Patagonia – Heading South along the Argentinian Coast

Happy New Year, everyone! Mark, Maya, and I wish you all a healthy, productive, inquisitive, comfortable, and adventurous 2025. Thank you for following Roaming About and appreciating that crazy lifestyle of ours.

I finally finished my Patagonia wildlife post, which contains lots of photos and videos. This footage hopefully gives you a better representation of our incredible encounters. Enjoy!

After “killing” a month of time in and around Uruguay in anticipation of less cold weather in the south, Mark and I deemed November 1st a good time to cross the border into Argentina again and head to Patagonia along the Atlantic Coast. It was still spring in the Southern Hemisphere, but the goal was to reach Ushuaia, the bottom of the continent, by December 21st, the start of the austral summer.

(As always, hover over or click on the photos in the galleries to read their captions.)

We had a rough start of this 2,500-mile (3,750km) southbound journey in Gualeguaychú with lack of sleep due to a motorcycle event with revving engines until 2am and youth partying behind our camper at 4am. We packed up and moved in the dark to settle at a fuel station by 5:15am.

This park was quiet!

This was followed by hours of driving and eventually settling in a nice and free municipal campground for a few days to work. After that commitment, the three of us started to cover miles along a boring Ruta 3, stopping at a few points of interest and stocking up on groceries before reaching a more remote and expensive Patagonia.

Eerie camp spot

One of the interesting sites we picked for a visit was Laguna de Epecuén, which draws tourists because of its eerie appearance. On November 6th, 1985 (exactly 39 years prior to our visit), an unusual weather pattern destroyed the dam and dike protecting the village of Villa Epecuén, flooding the area. This resort destination was never rebuilt and became a ghost town. Skeletal trees stand guard day and night, enhancing the barren scenario.

Most overlanders drive to Ushuaia via the Andes Mountains that straddle the Argentinian-Chilean border, which is a more scenic route than our choice near and along the Atlantic Coast. There are three reasons we picked this “faster” and “boring” side of the continent: we were already located in the east when starting the last stretch of our journey south, we hoped to spend most of the summer in the Andes on our drive back north, and this route offered wildlife encounters.

Flamingos on Epecuén Lake

Besides the random flamingoes, no interesting animals had crossed our path yet. That was about to change in Balneario El Condor, located at the northern edge of Patagonia. This, we learned after going through multiple agriculture checkpoints. We arrived in the province of Rio Negro on El Dia de la Tradicion (November 10th) and were greeted by cute children offering goodies and cheaper fuel!

Local treats for Dia de la Tradicion

El Condor might be located off the beaten track, but we really recommend a stop here if you have your own vehicle. This is where the biggest colony of burrowing parrots in the world is situated.

Miles of cliffs are inhabited by these pretty, squawking birds that are a delight to witness. Yes, they are loud! Luckily, they go to sleep at night, but the nights at this time of the year are short. They made sure we went to bed with them and woke up with the first sunrays!

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Merry Christmas & Happy New Year 2025!

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – November 2024 (Uruguay & Argentina)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally and out of pocket where needed.

Mark, Maya, and I spent pretty much the entire month of November with Thirsty Bella in Argentina, after crossing back over from Uruguay. The only reason I mention Uruguay in the title, is that some of the credit card charges from October didn’t come through until November. Bookkeeping…

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Our November expenses were on the high end, but that is not a surprise. It was an eventful month with lots of driving and quite a few realizations and stories.

It seems like every month we reach a new record high with the amount we spend on fuel! This time, we can blame the long distances. Gasoline is back “down” to around $4 a gallon (1 euro a liter) in Argentina as opposed to the $7 in Uruguay. But, man, did we cover some miles last month – and we are still going!

From November 1st, leaving Fray Bentos in Uruguay to cross the border, until November 30th at Playa La Mina along the Atlantic coast of Argentina, including a few measurable detours, we drove 2,000 miles (3,000 km)! I guess that translates to $670 of fuel… Luckily, our water consumption remains free.

Other car expenses – historically the highest category – went to maintenance ($10) in the form of windshield washer fluid and battery lugs (to create a more efficient cable run between the car and the camper, an upcoming project) and tolls ($15). The bridge crossing between Uruguay and Argentina cost $10 for cars and $40 (!) for motorhomes (and pick-ups with dual tires), which is insane. The other tolls were paid in Northern Argentina.

The expensive bridge over the river dividing Uruguay and Argentina

Our grocery bills were unusually high as well. We did stock up a bit before arriving in Patagonia, as we had heard that goods are pricier here, but the main reason for the increased number ($450), is that prices in Argentina, for all goods, keep rising. People everywhere in the world complain about inflation, but – honestly – that is nothing compared to this country. We have seen products double and triple in price this year. It is hurting every tourist, but the local population even more. Something will give soon.

My birthday gift at the end of November was a boat tour to Isla Pinguïno, off the coast of Puerto Deseado, a substantial detour from Ruta 3. Mark and I arrived here with the understanding that day tours to the island cost $80 per person, since nobody seems to update prices in iOverlander. This was already a high price to swallow for us, budget-minded nomads. But we had heard the trip was worthwhile, mostly to see rockhopper penguins, a species that is very difficult to visit elsewhere in the world.

Imagine our surprise when we inquired about this tour at two agencies and learned that the cheapest one offered these 5-hour trips (2-hour boat ride and 3 hours on the island) for $160 a person, not including lunch!

We managed to bargain them down a bit to $140 per person (cash would have been 130,000 pesos/$130 a person – we don’t even carry that many bills), which was still way out of our budget. So, Mark stayed home and let me go. Our friend Sheri came along, which was nice.

It was an enjoyable excursion (more photos and videos in an upcoming blog post), but to be honest, I still found the price too steep; just to watch the rockhoppers. Especially when adding another $60 in fuel for the detour. All the other wildlife could be seen – for free – in other parts of this country. I wish I would have known this price ahead of time (my mistake for not doing more research, but an increase of 100%?) and that Mark could have joined us.

After seventeen years (of traveling), my Crocs, a birthday gift from Mark in 2007, finally perished.

On my actual birthday (November 28), Jeff and Sheri treated us to dinner at a local restaurant, after having drinks in our camper. It was an interesting evening. and so busy that I forgot it was also the fourth anniversary of my book, Plunge. 🙂

We bought a bunch of affordable wine and a discounted bottle of vodka before the trek south and paid our monthly Starlink subscription, which is also going up due to the less favorable exchange rate. We topped up our propane tank again, for a decent price. This company only charged us for the gas they actually added, instead of for an entire 10kg tank.

Eating out in Argentina deserves a separate blog post! It isn’t pretty. Nor is it easy, affordable, tasty, or enjoyable. And that’s our bottom line. Believe me, we’ve tried. Between the late opening times of restaurants (generally around 8pm, which doesn’t mean you can eat at 8pm, of course), the increased – and still increasing – prices of meals, and the slim selection of well-prepared and healthy dishes, it’s just not worth it to us anymore.

For example, it took three tries in three different cities (the first two with us ending up cooking at home after 8pm) before we succeeded in buying a take-out pizza for two people, which cost $21, including a discount. The pie was not that great, especially the cooked ham that was supposed to be prosciutto. Oh, and the olives still had pits. We were actually going to use dinner donation money for this, but the credit card charges never came through. Yay! Now we can try once more. 😊

Mark and I bought a dozen empanadas on a beach one afternoon, expecting them to be seafood with a garlic sauce, based on our conversation with the vendor. They were quite tasty, but filled with ground beef, which came a tad unexpected.

The exception was a wonderful high tea ceremony in the Welsh town of Gaiman, where we ordered one “full service tea” at a tea house and one extra tea. This was enough food – savory and sweet treats – for two people. We shared the yummy experience with our Canadian friends, Jeff and Sheri. The price for this special feast had gone up from $8 to $24 in a year, but it was still worthwhile.

We just keep cooking our own meals (and doing the dishes) every day, which are tasty, healthy, and affordable, but it would be nice to take a break and have a splurge once in a while. Maybe in Ushuaia? Or Chile?

Dropping off laundry in Argentina – which is the only way, like in most South American countries, unless you rent an Airbnb with a washing machine – costs around $8 a load these days. We gave in, after inquiring at three laundromats and receiving a small discount when paying cash. And Maya finally received a new box of dog treats (since we saved a chunk of money elsewhere) and a bag of stuffing, with which we fluffed up her pathetic-looking dog bed.

In true fashion, we didn’t spend much money on entertainment. Mark and I visited the affordable Fray Bentos museum in Uruguay and booked a tour there on the last day of October. Luckily, we could pay with credit card, as we had run out of Uruguayan pesos by then. This charge came through in November.

Mural of the social situation in Fray Bentos, when the factory was active

Mark didn’t join me on the other two visits. The first one was to an abandoned town on the shores of Lago Epecuén. The entrance fee was low, but three times as high as six months ago. Out of principle, Mark stayed home. And the second one was a quick look into the oldest Welsh house of Gaiman, which gave me, Sheri, and Jeff a good idea of how the Welsh folks lived there in the 1800s.

Now, let’s talk about our pantry repair in Bella

I had forgotten to latch the cabinet, we drove on really bumpy and crappy roads for an hour, and the pantry slid out and in on its tracks long enough to give up and tumble to the floor. We heard the crash from the cabin of the truck, stopped immediately, and witnessed the warzone with horror, dread, and sadness.

Everything made from glass and ceramics, including precious gifts from friends, lie shattered on the floor, mixed with ball bearings of the destroyed track, and scattered shelves and spice containers.

After an already long, tiring, and frustrating day, this was another all-time-low for us. We stared at the damage and were ready to give up on this journey all together. Then, we gathered our wits, picked up the broken pieces, and swept the floor for the first time. More cleaning would follow – tiny shards of glass hid everywhere!

We contacted an Argentinian friend from Puerto Madryn, the first big town we were headed to, who got in touch with a carpenter friend of his, who let us know he could help. To make a long story short: we communicated with Federico and he came by Bella to see what was needed. Then, he bought new tracks, visited us again with his tools, and spent two hours installing and modifying the pantry.

On top of his service, professionalism, kindness, knowledge, and fast assistance, he refused to take any extra money from us! He only (under)charged us for the part, happy to help and become friends! This was an incredible and humbling experience. We used the money we’d saved to buy goodies for all three of us.

After we returned from our summer break in the US and Belgium, Mark suffered from allergies for many weeks. Finally, he bought medicine for the worst days. We also needed a new supply of hydrogen peroxide. We didn’t replace the broken mugs and glasses, apart for one wine glass on sale for $2. So far, we are managing fine. Mark refuses to drink out of plastic cups, though. I’ll have to be even more careful securing our cabinets, which I usually check meticulously before every departure.

As usual, we didn’t stay at pay campgrounds and managed to boondock/wild camp for the entire 30 days of November. Some places were quiet and attractive; others not so much.

And that wraps up our $1,512 expense report for November 2024 – above average but it could have been worse based on how the inflation in Argentina is going. We don’t want to be here for too much longer.

(For anyone interested in the political and financial situation of Argentina, Mark came across this interesting article recently: https://apnews.com/article/argentina-milei-trump-musk-default-economy-inflation-libertarian-18efe55d81df459792a038ea9e321800.)

November 2024 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $673; maintenance: $10; tolls: $15):

Groceries:

Gifts (B-day tour Liesbet):

Alcohol:

Utilities (Starlink internet: $43; propane: $13):

Dining out (teahouse, empanadas):

Laundry:

Dog (treats: $5; dog bed stuffing: $9):

Entertainment:

Camper (pantry):

Medical (allergy pills, hydrogen peroxide):

Household:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$698

$450

$139

$79

$56

$33

$15

$14

$11

$9

$6

$2

$0

———

$ 1,512

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend, check out the blogs of our nomad friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: Wildlife encounters in Patagonia

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Changing Web Hosting Services

Hello everyone,

This is a quick note to let you know that we are switching hosting services for our Roaming About website, which can cause some issues, hiccups, and glitches. We are also changing servers for our email programs and domain names.

It has been a massive, stressful, and time-consuming project, but it had to happen since our three-year BlueHost rate went up more than 100%, from $250 to $700 ($530 after multiple phone calls and pleading for a better price, which is still too much for us). We found a good alternative in Easy WP. Our new service is faster, cheaper ($100/year), and has helpful and responsive customer support. More about that in my December expense report.

I’m grateful for Mark, who knows how to do technical stuff and has spent many days on making this process go as smoothly as possible, on top of everything else that is going on in our life: his job, heaps of driving, sightseeing, errands, taking care of Maya, car projects, and cooking tasty and healthy meals. 🙂

Mark hard at work, dealing with our technical challenges

If you notice anything different, annoying, or disturbing, please let us know via the contact form (which has been tested and works fine), email, a comment, or Facebook.

We will be back to our “normal reporting” soon!

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:

Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary

Available on Amazon and elsewhere

eBook: US$ 5.99

Paperback: US$ 13.99

Exploring Uruguay – A Surprising Country in South America

Warning: This is a long post, heavy on photographs.

Mark, Maya, and I entered Uruguay from Argentina without expectations. We knew the coast drew lots of people, Montevideo was the capital, and Colonia del Sacramento was a highlight and UNESCO World Heritage Site. And that the country was super expensive, aptly called the Switzerland of South America.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Dealing with the border formalities was a bit confusing (everyone from either side wanted to inspect our camper) but didn’t take too long. We were a tad nervous regarding the “prohibited items” we brought to sustain ourselves and our dog (check the blue sign and guess what we carried), but Maya’s paperwork was in order, which proved important – and distracting – enough.

Salto Grande Dam

Right across the border, on the outskirts of Salto, we stopped by the Salto Grande dam, operated by both countries. There, Mark and I partook in a free tour, conducted in Spanish.

Afterwards, mid-afternoon, we decided to put some miles behind our wheels, since we hoped to cross the entire country and reach the coast within a few days. In Uruguay, we planned our route and stops more carefully, due to the costs. When gasoline has a price tag of $7 a gallon (about $2 per liter), you think twice about detours and their “worth.”

We stopped at a small clearing in the bushes, out of view, for that first night. The next three days, we leisurely traversed the hinterland of Uruguay, gazing at the well-kept homes and fields and feeling happy for the livestock – mostly horses, cows, and sheep – with all that juicy, bright-green grass everywhere!

We also came across a dinosaur display, with preserved footprints and information signs.

The people we met along the way were friendly, we enjoyed this peek into lesser-known territory, and we happily noticed the lack of garbage everywhere, but we were surprised at the state of the throughways.

Thinking that Uruguay was a relatively developed nation with a relatively western mentality, we had counted on beautifully paved main roads everywhere. Not in the back country. For at least 100 of the 400 miles across, we dealt with broken pavement, potholes, road work, or dirt tracks going east-west. The north-south equivalents seemed in better shape.

La Coronilla

The Atlantic coast brought pleasant surprises. First, we arrived at La Coronilla at the exact same time a familiar-looking kombi VW bus did. Mark recognized them as the Kombi Chronicles, a British couple with two cats, who had been exploring Latin America overland for a few years. We knew Willow and Lee through Facebook, WhatsApp groups, and mutual friends. It was great to finally meet! (They have a popular YouTube channel and Facebook page as well.)

After an introductory chat, they decided to stay another day, a Sunday, on which we hung out all afternoon and evening, chatting, exchanging stories, and sharing popcorn and wine. It’s always nice to meet like-minded folks and we hope to run into them again soon, on the way to – or in – Patagonia.

Our boondocking spot offered an “exotic” setting under palm trees, long walks on the beach, a decent view, and the sound of waves when falling asleep. It was quiet at night, so all three of us could rest up.

Continue reading

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – October 2024 (Argentina & Uruguay)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally  and out of pocket where needed.

After we returned to Thirsty Bella in Argentina, Mark, Maya, and I needed about three weeks to find our travel groove, get readjusted to the lifestyle, prep for new adventures, and see friends before new horizons lured. The first week of October, we headed north in Argentina and on October 9th, we crossed into Uruguay, a new-to-us country. We stayed through Halloween.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Despite Uruguay being a very expensive nation – even by western norms – our monthly budget stayed below average. Why? Mark and I were super careful spending money, stocked up in Argentina, drove slower than usual, deliberated detours, and focused on free camping and what we really wanted to see.

The car category was the highest, as usual. Over half of our total! With fuel costing $7 a gallon/$1.80 a liter in Uruguay (diesel is 40% cheaper), it is no surprise that we spent around $560 on gasoline, despite topping up in Argentina (at $4/gallon) and filling our 5-gallon jerrycan before crossing the border. I wonder if this has been an all-time monthly record. We complained about expensive fuel in Peru – where we drove around for five months – at $5 a gallon!

The other car cost went to toll roads, which were pricy in Uruguay as well. We joked that we had to pay $4 an hour on the highways. There are five “automatic” toll stations; an ordeal for foreigners.

You’re supposed to register your license plate and car (which we did), put credit on your account (we had no idea how many tolls we’d need, so skipped this) or pay at an office (which we did each time), and a camera would read your registered plate, take the correct credit off your account, and open the gate.

That last step NEVER worked. Now that we know how many tolls there are along the highways in Uruguay and that the cost is the same at each one, we would put that amount on the account and only be annoyed once at each booth, when the gate remains closed and some manual action somewhere happens.

Our grocery expense was on the high side, due to needing a lot still after coming home to an empty camper, cooking every meal at home, and preparing a handful of dinners for friends. Monthly rates for our satellite internet subscription have gone up. We now pay $80, half of which is fronted by our business.

We also opted to top up our propane tank before crossing the border – due to higher costs for everything in the neighboring country – but are not sure now this was the best plan of action. It seems that no matter where and when we add a few kilos of gas to our tank in Argentina, we end up paying for a full tank, just for the privilege, setting us back $15. Drinking water was free everywhere.

After the hassle and vet costs traveling back and forth to the US and Belgium with Maya, we weren’t done yet. Before entering Uruguay, she needed a new health certificate, export permit, and negative blood test for Leishmaniasis. We had all that done in the Argentinian town of Gualeguaychu, over one vet visit (when Maya got attacked again) and two SENASA (agriculture department) stops. We also got some of her shots updated at the vet, adding that bill up to $53. Being patient regarding the export permit meant that part only cost $2 (processing time of 72 hours) instead of the expedited, one-day fee of $30.

We are back in wine country! Despite everything else in Argentina steeply going up in price, wine seems to have been spared. We also bought two bottles of discounted rum to last in Uruguay. We never went out for drinks.

Another one of our three website domains was due last month ($22) and we couldn’t avoid laundry in Uruguay. In Colonia del Sacramento, I inquired at three laundromats. The price was the same everywhere: $7.50 for a tiny load of 2-3kg. Yikes! We had a lot of dirty stuff. The solution: drop off the most difficult items to hand wash (sheets, towels, jeans, and shorts) and wash everything else (about three big loads) by hand. The price was high for the convenience, but the savings were even higher!

Here is the truth about our dining out experiences: Mark and I had not gone out to dinner, just the two of us, since April of this year. Before we left for the summer, restaurant prices kept going up in Argentina, so we stuck to a few take-out meals. In Belgium and Massachusetts, it just didn’t happen. Back in Argentina, we didn’t have time, plus, many restaurants don’t open until 8pm. And in Uruguay, it was too expensive. We do have a couple of donation amounts left, which we look forward to splurging with soon.

All that being said, I did treat Mark to one dinner in Punta del Diablo, Uruguay, because the photos on Google looked super appealing for a place called Cardamomo and I had some money set aside from Belgium still (the last funds). Maya was welcome and, while pricy, the food and drinks were tasty and the atmosphere delightful.

The $5 we did use from our account went to a portion of fries from a food stand to complement a homecooked fried fish dinner. And, we needed a new plastic ladle/spoon as the old one was shedding and were surprised by its affordability ($2) in a Uruguayan grocery store.

One saving grace in Uruguay were its inexpensive – or free – attractions. More about that in my upcoming post. I climbed two lighthouses for stunning views, which only cost me $1 each time. Mark was not interested. And, both of us visited the impressive and well-kept Santa Teresa Fort near Punta del Diablo. All this for the equivalent of $4! A dam tour and Piria Castle were free to enjoy.

Last but not least, one of the most appealing things about that smallish country is its plethora of free, attractive camping spots, especially along the coast!

We also camped for free in Argentina; our friend Brandon paid for the three nights at Punta Viracho.

And that wraps up our relatively low ($1,135) and relatively enjoyable month of October.

October 2024 Overview:

Car  (fuel: $556; tolls: $21):

Groceries:

Utilities (Starlink internet: $40; propane: $15):

Dog (vet/vaccines: $53; export permit: $2):

Alcohol:

Computer (hosting fee):

Laundry:

Dining out:

Entertainment:

Household:

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$577

$361

$55

$55

$41

$22

$13

$5

$4

$2

$0

———

$ 1,135

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

Next up: A three-week discovery of Uruguay

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

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