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A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Nature (page 3 of 19)

Overlanding in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru – Rough Roads and Splendid Scenery

September 20, 2023 / / 37 Comments

From the sleepy fishing village of Tortugas, Mark, Maya, and I headed inland again, back to the Andes Mountains. After traveling around Northern Peru for three weeks in our truck camper Thirsty Bella, our first impressions of the country had not been positive. Fellow overlanders kept telling us “It would get better further south.” We were both looking forward to “better,” “prettier,” and, above all, “quieter.”

Location Cordillera Blanca in Peru
Close-up Cordillera Blanca in Peru

Map of our sights in the Cordillera Blanca

Huaraz

We drove from sea level to 14,000ft (4,200m) in one day, so, as you can imagine, the scenery changed drastically as we climbed from littered roads and uninspiring plots of dirt to green fields, pine trees, and, above the tree line, views of the impressive snowy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Driving into the Andes
View of the Cordillera Blanca
Snowy tops in the distance
Happy for the blue skies at this altitude!
Quechua woman along the road

On our first night in the hectic town of Huaraz, we decided to camp at its viewpoint (11,000ft or 3,350m) for a more peaceful experience. We failed to learn that the road up was narrow, rocky, and stressful. I can’t say the view was that special, but we did, at least and at last and despite a vague headache, have a quiet night – after trying to level up a bit, getting dressed for and dealing with a police visit at 11pm, and meeting expat and missionary Larry, who thought it was a good idea to scream “Good morning, Liesbet and Mark” on his 5am run the following day.

Cross at the mirador (viewpoint)
View from above Huaraz
Huaraz by night
Huaraz by day
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Overlanding along the Coast of Northern Peru – A Mixed Bag

September 10, 2023 / / 35 Comments

Many overlanding friends warned us about the limitless trash piles along the Pan-American Highway paralleling the Peruvian coast. This is an area the usual tourist doesn’t venture to, for good reasons. In general, the North coast is desolate, depressing, stark, and filthy, but there are a few interesting sites to check out.

Sunset at the beach

Puerto Malabrigo

After leaving Cajamarca, Mark, Maya, and I continued our drive to the Peruvian coast, mainly because the road south from there (the Panamericana) is paved, smooth, wide, and fast. That part was a nice change from the narrow, curvy, sketchy roads we’d been taking to cross the Andes Mountains.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Rice paddies in the lower valleys
River valley
Look at those nicely paved roads!
Sand dunes
Reaching the dusty, windy coast

The scenery, however, was bleak and – as expected – heavily littered. Sometimes, it looked and smelled like we were driving through a garbage dump. Sad.

A common sight
Garbage along the side of the road
More litter along a coastal road
Ironic sign along the road: Forbidden to throw garbage

Our first stop was a free beach camping spot in Puerto Malabrigo, which we had picked based on the descriptions and photos in our trusty app iOverlander. There are not a lot of places where you can actually camp on the beach, and be surrounded by relative peace. The fact that this site had picnic tables and a thatched umbrella for shade was a bonus. We leveled up at the end of this area, so nobody would pass us, and were pleasantly surprised with this find.

From some angles, this place looked very pretty
Nice and modern boardwalk
Finally back at the ocean after ten months

Actually, we were super excited and relieved about the prospect of finally sitting still for a few days. The sand was soft, the beach long and flat for walks with Maya, the internet worked well, our cabinets, fridge, and water tanks were full, a newly built boardwalk beckoned, we could hear the waves, and the small town offered tiendas (stores), restaurantes, and panaderias (bakeries).

Picnic tables and umbrellas on the beach
We looked forward to a few days of relaxation in this attractive spot on the beach.

Our joy was short lived.

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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – August 2023 (Peru)

September 6, 2023 / / 37 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally  and out of pocket where needed and possible.

In August 2023, Mark, dog Maya, and I explored the Northern half of Peru in our truck camper, Thirsty Bella.

The golden light near Laguna Churup

Note: Traveling overland in this country with your own vehicle is VERY different from flying in as a tourist, using organized transport, visiting the highlights, eating in high-end restaurants, and sleeping in comfortable hotels.

We literally taste Peru with all our senses, from smelling the smoke from a neighbor burning trash and the black exhaust of trucks, to hearing barking dogs, partying locals, honking cars, homemade fireworks, and the killing of pigs, to seeing trash being tossed in rivers, the sea, or the roadside, to tasting the bland food at local stands and limited vegetables in remote villages, to touching the hungry, skinny, attention-deprived stray dogs huddling around our camper, to being stared at by sustainable farmers and squeezed by aggressive drivers. Being part of Peruvian life has been challenging and heart-breaking, but some of the scenery has been awe-inspiring.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Two cute and hungry stray puppies at El Brujo
Driving among trash along the coast
A common sight along the Pan-American Highway in Peru
Take care of the environment, don’t throw trash…
The Cordillera Blanca
Impressive peaks from our free campsite in Caraz

It is no surprise that our biggest spending category last month was the car, more precisely fuel. At about US$5 per gallon for gasoline, this has been “killing” us. Over half of our total monthly amount went to gas! On top of the high prices for this commodity, our fuel mileage has been worse than ever, due to all the mountain driving (up and down relentlessly; no tunnels), the liberal placements of topes (speedbumps) everywhere, and the abundance of potholes. There is a lot of accelerating and slowing to a crawl.

Time to fuel up again
Many speedbumps (and potholes) to slow us down and make us use even more fuel
First fill up in Peru – over US$140!!!
High fuel prices – gasoline is over US$5 per gallon

Thirsty got a bath for the equivalent of US$3 and we paid for a few toll roads as well. Unlike in Colombia, these highways in Peru are actually smooth, wide, fast, and awesome. As long as you don’t look to the sides.

Filthy Thirsty needed a bath after driving on all the dirt roads surrounding Huaraz
Toll rates on the highways: around US$3 for a normal car

Despite grocery items being more expensive in Peru than Colombia and Ecuador, we didn’t spend a huge amount in supermarkets, for two reasons: we are being frugal about what we buy and we rarely see decent stores. They only exist in bigger cities.

Our first decent grocery store in two weeks, in Cajamarca. Yay!
Full cupboards again…
Annoying local dairy store to buy butter from the source – no prices and no friendly service, but affordable and good butter
Bakery in Carhuaz

We mostly obtain produce and eggs at local markets (when present) and don’t eat very varied these days. We have to be creative, just like when we sailed in the remote islands of the South Pacific. Obtaining raw, hanging meat at those mercados is something we are not keen on, so our protein intake has been low.

Lots of fruit at the markets and at roadside stands
Vegetables like at this stand are harder to find and don’t keep long
Dogs are happy at the mercado central
Hanging chickens at the market of Huaraz
Trying to eat varied and healthy at home

Because of the high cost of fuel in August, we refrained from too many splurges. We ate out a few times, but none of that was noteworthy. People keep saying that the food in Peru is excellent. So far, we have not experienced this. If you have traveled here, please enlighten us.

The small, local restaurant where we had a decent and affordable lunch
This ceviche was tasty – it’s the first course of a day menu
Main course of the day menu in a tiny fishing village. The US$3 meal also comes with a juice.
Mark’s meal in Trujillo: beef hearts and gizzards on sticks

One day, not having bread for a sandwich lunch at home, we decided to eat a local meal on our daytrip to a fabulous lake in the Andes Mountains. When asking what was served, the answer was chicharron (pig skins). No chicken? No, but they could make potatoes and eggs for us. Sure! We were only slightly surprised to each receive a bowl with four boiled potatoes in the skin and one, unpeeled hard-boiled egg on top. Never mind that the menu poster showed two boiled eggs (peeled) per plate!

Poster on the outside wall of the food shack
Cooking on wood fires
Our bland lunch

Here is the best part of being in Peru: the scenery and sights! When we can reach and afford them, anyway. 😊 Fascinating ruins, incredible views, rewarding hikes, spectacular lakes. We did a bit of all that, which will be elaborated on in future posts.

Upper part of the Gocta Waterfall
Ventanilla de Otuzco
Cao Viejo ruins
The amazing wall art in Huacas del Sol y la Luna
View along the incredibly crappy road to Llaca Lake
Laguna Llaca at 14,000ft
Willkawain Ruins
Laguna Paron

After keeping an eye out for an alpaca poncho in Colombia and Ecuador, but never biting the bullet, I did treat myself to a colorful poncho at the artisanal market in Huaraz. It wasn’t cheap, but I love it and have used it since on those chilly nights in the mountains.

Showing off my poncho in the Cordillera Blanca
Watching the rising of the full moon in Caraz – with my comfy poncho

Finding usable internet to work has been tricky in Peru. And we have moved camp a lot for that reason. Only some towns have reliable cell service, the biggest plan you can buy is only for 1.5GB, and while Claro states Facebook, WhatsApp, Messenger, and other social media channels are included in the plan, it is our experience that this is not correct. Sometimes, we’d have full bars of 4G service and not one page loads in our browser. One moment, we can connect, the next, nothing…

Getting a Movistar SIM card in Chachapoyas
Mark hard at work at night, often the only time to focus on computer stuff
First time we used our pump to transfer water from a 5-gallon water jug into our tank – we were totally out of potable water

We have been able to stay stick to our $30 average budget for internet, but it has been due to careful consideration and planning around accessibility and the few times we bought an unlimited day plan. That’s when I upload photos to my website and read other people’s blog posts. And for anyone who wonders… yes, we are seriously considering buying Starlink. Ouch! For the first time in a year, we paid for potable water as well.

Recommended chocolate shop in Celendin
Pretty and tasty bonbons!
Carhuaz is famous for its local ice cream
Trying three different and new flavors
We stopped for a sandwich lunch in Carhuaz and I splurged with ice cream for dessert!

Our alcohol expense wasn’t too bad. We stayed at high altitudes for most of August and when dehydration, headaches, and shortness of breath threaten, an adult beverage is not appealing.

Sunset at our wild camping spot near Pueblo de los Muertos
Urban camping in Chachapoyas
Camped for a night at the cold, windy, and rainy Calla Calla Pass
Camped for a night in the countryside
Promising free campsite in Puerto Malabrigo
Sunset along the coast in El Brujo
Urban camping in Trujillo
Tortugas: not a bad place to spend a few days
We spent a few nights along the long, narrow, dirt road to Laguna Paron in Caraz

Most of our campsites were wild and free, but we did stay at a paid campground for three nights; something we usually don’t indulge in. The reason was two-fold: we wanted to take the camper off the truck, because that was the only way to visit most sights around Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca and we needed to fill with potable water. Finally meeting other campers was a bonus. Most of our fellow overlanders stay at places like this.

Our paid campground – Marian Wahi – in Huaraz

Unfortunately, Marian Wasi didn’t have WiFi and the Claro cell service was not strong enough to work, so we had to leave the camping earlier than expected. Not that this was an easy feat… We cleared the lowish entrance gate when arriving, but not when leaving. Letting air out of the rear tires was the solution. Good we have an air compressor with us!

A very tight fit leaving the campground
Too close for comfort! Our camper did not clear the gate upon exiting.
Thirsty Bella stuck under the gate – Mark drove, I stood on the ladder to check the minuscule clearance and guide him,, two guys hung at the back to add weight, and we deflated the rear tires
Spending an hour alongside the narrow road to inflate the tires again with our small compressor

The last three expense categories consisted of a few loads of laundry in Trujillo, buying an orange squeezer and new cheese grater, and drinking fresh juices at a café on the coast and coca tea at a high-elevation refugio to help with altitude sickness.

Restaurant/store where we had our juices
Refreshing and fresh orange juice on a hot walk along the coast
Our laundromat in Trijullo

Based on how we kept spending money on all of this in August, we expected our total to be higher than the $1,058 recorded, so we don’t feel too bad about just cresting $1,000. September, however, will sport some super costly items, which will bring us closer to $2,000!

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

 

August 2023 Overview:

Car (fuel: $555; tolls: $6; carwash: $3; parking: $1):

Groceries:

Dining out:

Entertainment (hikes, ruins, lakes):

Clothing (poncho Liesbet):

Utilities (internet: $32; water: $6):

Alcohol:

Camping:

Laundry:

Household:

Drinking out:

 

TOTAL:

 

$567

$227

$61

$44

$39

$38

$37

$24

$10

$6

$5

———

$ 1,058

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

First Impressions of Northern Peru – Noise, Nature, and Necropoli

August 29, 2023 / / 32 Comments

Peru has been a struggle for Mark, Maya, and me, but we hope to find our groove one of these days. Not that anything bad happened. Just that things have been difficult – finding internet, being able to sleep at night due to noise, witnessing all the trash, not connecting with the locals, weird vibes, the bad quality of food in stores, the higher cost of living – and fuel…

Jaen

The border crossing from Ecuador into Northern Peru in La Balsa was busier than usual on a Sunday, but everything went relatively smoothly and was wrapped up within two hours. As always, the TIP (Temporary Import Permit) for the vehicle took the longest to obtain. Our biggest disappointment happened at immigration. Mark and I requested a “visa” for six months, but the officer was only able/allowed/willing to give us three. Peru is a huge country to explore within three months by camper.

At the Peruvian land border
Waiting in line to get access into the country
Bye, bye Ecuador

From the moment we touched Peruvian soil, the roads turned into smooth pavement and offered a welcome change. People were drying coffee beans alongside, which cut the width of usable surface in half, but traffic was light. We took in the sights and pushed all the way to Jaen, the first city. We found a decent-looking camping spot by a river and needed the local currency (soles), a Peruvian SIM card and data plan for internet, and food.

Plenty of space in between, as long as nobody comes from the other side…
Drying coffee beans
We were surprised to see rice paddies, but the border was at a low elevation with a temperature of 90 degrees F.
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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – July 2023 (Ecuador)

August 12, 2023 / / 34 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally  and out of pocket where needed and possible.

Mark, dog Maya, and I concluded the month of July in Ecuador with our truck camper Thirsty Bella, before crossing the border into Peru.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Last night in Vilcabamba – further away from town to “escape” the fireworks
Happy hour at home, after all the drinking out!
Boondocked by a dam and violent river on our last night in Ecuador

We splurged in July, mainly on eating and drinking out in places like Baños , Cuenca, and Vilcabamba, where quality establishments are  plentiful. Yet, our total expenditure for July was well below US$1,000, our new goal.

An extensive lunch at the excellent Korean restaurant “Maya’s Kitchen” in Vilcabamba
A set lunch – main dish and juice – for $2.50 at Mr. Café in Cuenca
Awesome dumplings in Cuenca
We found the best Chinese restaurant – making their own noodles – in Cuenca
Hot chocolate and coffee in Cuenca
Splurging with a sweet crepe in Baños
Awesome empanadas in Baños
Local dish at the market in Baños
Amazing pizza dinner in Baños
Tasty, hot soup in Quilotoa
Set lunch (almuerzo) in Quilotoa – $5 per person for this main dish, the soup pictured, and a juice
Ice cream treat in Cuenca
Decent Mexican burrito, except for the tiny bones in the chicken
Ecuador’s local beer – Mark didn’t like it at all

Important to note is that Mark and I have been receiving more paid work than before and if that’s reflected anywhere, it’s in those two categories. We spent A LOT in European bakeries in July; good bread (and pastries) is important to this Belgian! Of course, we’ve been busier as well, needing more internet data and having to chase cell service. As a result, we’ve been making more than we are spending, so are not dipping into savings anymore. What a concept! 😊

The French bakery in Vilcabamba – pastries
The French bakery in Vilcabamba – breads
Vilcabamba has two European bakeries – pastries for Sunday breakfast!

While it has been fun to meet up with friends for drinks and dinner out, after one such night in Vilcabamba, on which we spent US$50, we had to reign ourselves in. That’s a lot of money. Especially for us. Especially in South America!

Happy hour with new friends in Mr. Café, Cuenca
At this restaurant, you can choose your empanada fillings.
Going out for dinner with our friends Eric, Brittany, and Caspian
The empanada cook
Drinks out at Vilca Garden in Vilcabamba
More drinks at another brewery in Vilca

The grocery cost was quite high, mainly because in early July I did a “failed” border run to Colombia and went shopping in our favorite store, D1, where I stocked up on olive oil, Parmesan cheese, soy sauce, and snacks. These items are expensive or elusive in Ecuador. While the snacks have long disappeared, the bottles of olive oil and “real” soy sauce will last a while.

While in Ecuador, we always shopped for groceries in an Aki (or Gran Aki or Super Aki), because prices were usually pretty good there.
Produce in Ecuador was very affordable – all these potatoes cost 99 cents.
Incredible produce market in Baños
Fabulous homemade meal – Mark is a good cook!
My favorite meal cooked by Mark; mushroom burgers on a bed of lettuce with rice and aioli

The car was the second-highest category, with around $180 for fuel (we covered 2/3 of the country with that amount and topped up before the border; you’ll find out next month why), some tolls, and our SOAT (liability insurance) for Peru, which only cost $16 for six months.

Meeting the smart, idealistic, and generous Tayrone of the Cuenca Store
A wonderful gift from Cuenca Shop owner Tayrone
Filling our propane tank north of Cuenca

I mentioned the dining and drinking out; our fun expenses. The next one was for utilities. We average paying $30 per month for internet in South America (Mark keeps bringing up Starlink, since cell service has been hard to come by at times) and we filled our propane tank near Cuenca. Running out of gas one chilly morning surprised us, while heating water for a shower. We managed to keep turning the water heater back on each time it turned off and reached lukewarm temperatures. Our reasoning for this unpleasant discovery: spending a lot of time above 12,000ft (3,700m), running our gas heater at night. We are more careful now.

Quilotoa Lagoon
The fee station before entering Quilotoa town
Liesbet getting ready to dive off the bridge in Baños
Geared-up for the “bridge dive”
Viewpoint over a canyon, for $1 a person

The two of us spent about $40 on activities. While national parks in Ecuador are free, pretty much all other entertainment costs money. For this amount, I dove off a bridge in Baños ($20), we paid the town’s entrance fee to Quilotoa Lagoon, the three of us visited some waterfalls, Casa del Arbol (all near Baños as well), and a museum in Cuenca, and we immersed ourselves in the Inca ruins of Ingapirca (see next blog).

Machay Waterfall
El Pailon del Diablo Waterfall
La Casa del Arbol
Ingapirca Ruins
A great museum in Cuenca
Ruins at the Pumapungo Museum in Cuenca

The remaining categories were low – we bought ourselves two small paintings of a local artist in Tigua, barely purchased alcohol in stores, had a few loads of laundry done, obtained a $10 health certificate for Maya as a requirement by Peru, and I got my biannual $5 haircut.

Painting of Cotopaxi Volcano
Painting of Laguna de Quilotoa
Visiting a vet in Loja to obtain Maya’s health certificate
Maya’s $10 health certificate for Peru

A massive way to save money for us is to wild camp/boondock. We don’t want facilities as we are self-contained for up to two weeks (at which point we need potable water), so make due with free parking available in towns and on public lands. In July 2023, we only spent $2 for overnight parking in Rio Verde. The other nights – 30 of them – we “camped” gratis.

Free camping spot near Chimborazo Volcano
Camped among other overlanders in Baños
Paid overnight parking ($2) in Rio Verde
Free overnight parking at the ruins of Ingapirca
Camped by a park in Cuenca for almost one week
Camped along a river between Ingapirca and Cuenca
Camped with friends at a park north of Loja
Wonderful free camping spot along the river in Vilcabamba, where we stayed about a week as well

A negative about not paying for established campgrounds is that we haven’t slept well, because of fireworks, traffic noise, and other sounds, either at night or early morning. Not that paid camping would solve all these issues… And, some views from our preferred campsites in nature are hard to beat!

Boondocked by Cotopaxi Volcano

Now that we are in Peru, life has become much more pricey and we have to convert our money again – no more US dollars, like in Ecuador!

July 2023 Overview:

Groceries:

Car (fuel: $178; SOAT Peru: $16; tolls: $6; maint.: $5):

Dining out:

Drinking out:

Utilities (internet: $30; propane: $13):

Entertainment (bridge dive, lagoon, waterfalls, ruins):

Gifts (paintings):

Alcohol:

Laundry:

Dog (health certificate Peru):

Health & Fitness (haircut L.):

Camping:

 

TOTAL:

 

$282

$207

$177

$81

$43

$41

$24

$14

$13

$10

$5

$2

———

$ 899

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Volcanos and Waterfalls in Central Ecuador – Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Quilotoa, and Baños

August 4, 2023 / / 48 Comments

After Mark, Maya, and I finished our car projects and left the comfortable and safe haven of friend Graham’s driveway in Ibarra, we only had four weeks left to explore the central and southern part of Ecuador, before our three-month visas expired. We hadn’t gotten very far yet, after two months!

Our visited sites in Central Ecuador

Cotopaxi Volcano

We drove a bunch to pick up our trail from a month prior, south of Quito, the country’s capital. Our first stop was the impressive Cotopaxi volcano, which is often hiding in the frequent clouds at this altitude.

Cloudy arrival at our camp spot

Thanks to our free iOverlander app, we found a peaceful wild camping spot near the national park. We failed to see the mountain, but we persevered, spending two nights at 12,000ft (3,650m) without internet, walking Maya in the paramo, meeting wild horses, running our heater at night, and waiting for a glimpse.

Pretty horse
More wild horses
Morning walk with Maya
Small waterfall during our explorations

On our second evening, after the sun set, we spotted Cotopaxi’s snowy top. The light was not ideal for optimal viewing or photography. We crossed our fingers for a clear morning the following day as, unfortunately, we couldn’t stay longer due to the lack of cell service.

Waiting for a glimpse of Cotopaxi’s top
The volcano appeared in the last light of the day.

And, look what we woke up to on day three! Time for photo shoots – and to drive into the national park for an up-close view and feel of Cotopaxi!

Early morning glimpse of Cotopaxi
A joyful walk
The moment to take selfies
The same small waterfall, now with the volcano in the background
Another family portrait attempt

Since dogs are technically not allowed in Ecuadorian national parks (which are free), Maya stayed in the car and camper during our visit. We first drove to a small lake with decent views.

National Park entrance
Hand-drawn map of the park
Driving into the National Park
Getting closer to the active volcano
Not too much snow left
A detour to the lake
A mellow day

Then, our heavy vehicle managed to climb the volcano itself, to the parking lot at 15,000ft (4,570m), from where visitors can ascend the mountain to a glacier and refugio (shelter/restaurant). It is possible to climb further to the top with a guide. As you can imagine, the air was thin here and putting one foot in front of the other laborious. Mark made it “up there,” but I had to turn around when dizziness and a serious headache threatened.

Slowly climbing to 15,000ft with Thirsty Bella
Approaching the road up Cotopaxi
Ready to ascend the mountain on foot to the “refugio” (building up ahead)
View from the climb up, before I turned around
When we drove back down the volcano around 11am, it was already shrouded in clouds again.

Quilotoa Lagoon

Quilotoa has been a highlight for many visitors to Ecuador, so we had to check it out. The road to the small town with the same name was paved and pretty, but realizing that hundreds of homeless, starving dogs are being dumped and now linger along this “highway” was heart-breaking.

Stray dog in the gutter
Waiting for food
I really hope someone picks a dog up once in a while
Another pretty, abandoned dog
Not a lot of indigenous people have cars.
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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – June 2023 (Ecuador)

July 14, 2023 / / 26 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast.

My goal was to write and publish this expense report a week ago. But a large, multiple-day translation assignment arrived in my inbox, which was followed by a few days of driving and sightseeing, as our time in Ecuador is quickly coming to an end. And just like that, it’s Friday again!

Home for another 3+ weeks!
Sunset view from Graham’s property
Maya hid in the bathroom when there were fireworks in Ibarra – mostly during the weekends

In June, the first ten days were spent exploring Northern Ecuador a bit more with our truck camper Thirsty Bella. Mark flew to the US for 2.5 weeks and then joined Maya and me in Ibarra to conclude the month at our friend Graham’s place. This time around, Thirsty Bella was parked for over three weeks on Graham’s driveway. Add our five-day initial visit to his family in May, and for one out of our three months in Ecuador, we lived in Ibarra!

Mark was dropped off at Quito airport for his short journey to the US.
Quito airport

Our biggest expense last month was the car. We filled our F350 pickup truck up with gasoline a couple of times in Ecuador and Mark did the same for his mom’s car in Massachusetts. There were toll roads here but most of the parking money went to a Dana Farber parking garage in Boston, when Mark dealt with health check-ups.

Toll rates in Ecuador
One of the frequent toll booths along the PanAmerican Highway in Ecuador

Another chunk of money went to maintenance of our truck, which is not that high all things considered, because we did all the work ourselves. Once Mark returned to Ecuador, we used Graham’s driveway to replace the 25-pound (11.5kg) front wheel bearing hub on the passenger side (which my husband brought back from the US in his carry-on luggage!) and check the brakes, including disassembling them and lubricating the parts. We planned to replace the rear brakes, but it wasn’t necessary yet.

Mark managed to bring back a brand-new wheel bearing hub in his carry-on backpack.
We had to take the camper off to do truck maintenance.
Cleaning up the brake pads
Uninstalling the old wheel bearing hub took a couple of hours.
Installing the new wheel bearing hub
Dealing with brake maintenance

Believe it or not, but $55 of those $113 that went to car stuff was spent on a frivolity item that Mark had his eyes on for many months… He bought a “moo horn” for our Thirsty Bella.

Mark installed this button of our “moo horn” on the dash, so we can both reach it.

Now, with the push of a button, she sounds like a cow as well, delivering even more smiles in the villages we pass through.

Our groceries for June cost less than $200, due to me not buying much for just one person and Mark’s mom covering the food bill in the US. Our dining out category was relatively high – we splurged on a few meals in Mindo, Ecuador, and enjoyed taking our friends out for some food as a thank you.

Eating out in Mindo
Eating a late local dinner out with Graham on the way to the airport
My splurge at Finca Sommerwind on a long lake walk in Ibarra with Maya.
This $1 lunch on my bus ride back from the Colombian border consisted of rice, a boiled potato, and a chicken thigh.

Our annual Chase credit card fee was payable last month, so that was a one-time expense, as well as the high amount for transportation. This $95 covered Mark’s two-hour transfers to and from Quito airport, his train trips to and from Boston airport, a couple of taxi rides to Ecuador’s capital from the spot where we left our camper, a bus ride for me to Yahuarcotcha Lake and one to the border with Colombia in a failed attempt to return on my Belgian passport, and two cab rides to Ipiales for me to go shopping at my favorite Colombian grocery store, the D1.

Waiting for this bus to take me back to Graham’s Place after an exhausting, hot walk around Laguna Yahuarcocha
My daytrip to the Colombian border was pretty much a waste.

The alcohol expense was average, I think; when we hang out with friends, we tend to drink more than when it’s just the two of us. Mark bought SD cards for two new security cameras, two pairs of shorts, wiring for the camper, and bandages for Maya while he was in the US. He also went out for drinks with friends one night. Internet was cheap, because we could use Graham and Amalia’s WiFi network for free when camped on their property, as well as the washing machine.

Other useful items Mark brought back from the US – most of them free through our Amazon Vine perk

The only camping we paid for was at Hostal Colibri near Quito airport, which we checked out as a potential place for me to stay while Mark was gone. It happened to be too noisy (from airplanes landing overhead), expensive, and tight to consider. All our other nights of camping were free.

This hostel/campground is located ten minutes from the airport by car.
Too close for comfort!
When you’re living in a camper here, the planes overhead are loud. Most people only store their vehicles here when flying to the Galapagos or abroad.
Free camping in Mindo town
Free camping by a “tubing” river in Mindo
Free camping in the Pululahua Crater

Most of our entertainment – hiking, sightseeing, reading – is free, but in June, we paid money for a waterfall hike in Mindo (see my next blog post) and I bought an eBook to support a fellow author.

Map of the park
Hiking in the jungle of Mindo
The first waterfall along our trail
The last waterfall along the trail – only Mark and Maya checked this one out
We didn’t swim; only let our feet cool off
Free hiking trail in the Pululahua Crater
Hiking in the Pululahua Crater

Based on Mark’s international trip and shopping sprees and my stationary time in Ecuador, last month’s total expenses of $1,043 are relatively low.

Stopped by a Chinese restaurant for lunch on one of my excursions with Graham and family
Graham dropped off a slice of take-out pizza a couple of times!

The reasons? The hospitality and generosity of friends and family (Thank you!!), the costs for plane tickets and car parts going to previous months, and the fact that Mark and I are both Amazon Vine members. This status allows us to order useful items for free, to a US address, in return for honest reviews of those products. Of course, we can only use this benefit in accordance with a stateside journey. Time to write some more reviews now! 🙂

New pepper and salt grinders
New (wireless) mouse
New laces for my old hiking shoes

June 2023 Overview:

Car (fuel: $199; maint.: $113; parking: $24; tolls:$7):

Groceries:

Dining out:

Bank fees (annual Chase credit card fee):

Transportation (taxis, buses, transfers, trains):

Alcohol:

Clothing (shorts M):

Utilities (internet):

Drinking out:

Computer hardware (SD cards):

Camping:

Entertainment (Mindo hike, eBook):

Camper (wiring):

Dog (new bandages):

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$343

$194

$111

$95

$95

$66

$53

$17

$14

$12

$12

$11

$9

$6

$5

———

$ 1,043

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Waterfalls, Lakes, and Hot Springs in Northern Ecuador

June 19, 2023 / / 41 Comments

On May 4th (an easy one to remember), Mark, Maya, and I crossed the border from Colombia into Ecuador; a non-event that took about two hours and was much more relaxed than any Central American crossing we remember from 2006. Our visa stamp allows us to stay for 90 days.

Welcome to Ecuador!
Getting our entry stamp was easy and fast; the temporary car importation paperwork took about an hour to retrieve.

Northern Ecuador Sights

Tulcán

Our first stop – after shopping for groceries and being pleasantly surprised to see dumpsters everywhere – was the topiary garden of the Tulcán cemetery. That first day in Ecuador, we also managed to get a SIM card and buy data and non-sweet bread, before settling at a great little spot by a pond.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Our first stop in Ecuador
Cool designs
It was a joy to walk around in the garden
The garden had a lot of alleyways
Enjoying the “plant statues”

San Gabriel

Laguna El Salado

If you’ve been reading my previous blog posts, it won’t come as a surprise that Colombia wore us out. Despite being enamored by its cute towns, beautiful scenery, and extremely friendly (and curious) people, the country is still rough around the edges and quite busy and loud. So when we stumbled across our first free boondocking (wild camping) spot and discovered it was quiet and attractive, we stayed for almost a week, catching up on sleep, work, and walks with Maya.

Camped by Laguna El Salado, which does not have salt water
Nice weather and quiet days
In Ecuador, people are curious to learn more about our lifestyle as well.

El Centro

Coming from Colombia, which has heaps of colorful, historic pueblos (towns), we knew not to expect much architectural eye candy in Ecuador. The center of San Gabriel was alright – tiendas (stores) and panaderias (bakeries) abound – and we learned that prime street parking spots (marked with blue lines) come with a fee.

The center of San Gabriel
Main plaza
Colorful church in the city center

Cascada de Paluz

Some locals had told us about this off-the-beaten-track waterfall, so we decided to check it out. After following a potholed dirt road for fifteen minutes, we reached this well-maintained and pretty park. The waterfall was impressive and overlooked by elves!

Lots of elves were keeping a close watch.
Approaching the waterfall
Cascada de Paluz
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Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – May 2023 (Colombia & Ecuador)

June 13, 2023 / / 30 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast.

Early last month, Mark, Maya, and I completed 175 days of exploring Colombia and on May 4th, we crossed into Ecuador with our truck camper Thirsty Bella. Did you know that the national currency in this country is the US dollar? It will make our tracking – and spending – that much easier. 🙂

The border crossing between Colombia and Ecuador was surprisingly mellow.

May 2023 was our cheapest month in years. We rarely dip under $1,000, but this time we surpassed ourselves. The reasons: because April was an expensive, above-average month, Mark and I tried hard to “save” money by not eating out and camping for free, and we had somewhat stocked up on dry food in cheaper Colombia. On top of that, we were surrounded by generous friends – old and new.

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Graham treated us to a traditional Sunday lunch out in Zuleta
Fernando made a Mexican lunch for all of us
Spectacular dinner out with Katherine and Brandon in Quito

Yes, Ecuador has higher prices for pretty much everything except tolls, gasoline, and produce and you often have to pay for street parking, hiking, and natural sites. National parks seem to be free.

One of the many free national parks in Ecuador
A lovely park!
Peguche waterfall ($1 for two people)

The main roads, especially the PanAmerican Highway, are in better shape, motorcycles are less frequent, and tourism is more established than in Colombia.

Vegetable market in Otavalo
Vegetable bounty for $5
Sampling of our fridge
In Ecuador, homemade potato chips come with three condiments…
Big jar of honey: $6

Our highest category last month was groceries at under $200, followed by car expenses. We didn’t drive that much and only ventured around northern Ecuador the first five weeks, because Mark decided to leave from Quito for his annual medical and family visit to Massachusetts, USA.

View over Quito from Andy’s place, where we stored our camper for two nights ($8) while visiting the capital with friends

Before we crossed the border with Ecuador, we had an oil change done in Pasto. When you buy the oil at a garage, they perform the change for free. Unfortunately, the mechanic overfilled the reservoir, so Mark had to carefully drain some of it back out (and save it) the following day. There were some tolls too.

The shop part of the garage
Getting ready for our oil change in Pasto
If the mechanic could have, he would have poured two gallons of oil in the reservoir!
Tolls in Colombia are pricey, all things considered.
Our last toll road in Colombia

The last two nights of May, the three of us stayed at a funky Airbnb in Quito. This allowed us to explore the capital city on foot – our accommodation was located in the historical district – and to have quality time with our friends Katherine and Brandon, who are traversing Central and South America on their decked-out BMW motorcycles. We had an amazing time!

Our Airbnb in Quito consisted of an entire house and former hotel, El Palomar
Our bedroom, one of six
View from the top floor of our Airbnb

As usual, we boondocked (camp without facilities) 100% of the time and managed to mostly do so for free. Ecuador offers more public spaces than Colombia, but we did have to pay a small fee for overnight parking a few times.

Overnight parking spot in busy Pasto
Our first (free) camping spot in Ecuador was peaceful, so we stayed a week!
Camped for one night (free) at Grutas de La Paz
Free camping at Chachimbiro hot springs
Free camping near Laguna de Cuicocha
How’s this for a free campsite view?
Camped by the El Pisque hot springs (free)
Camped for one night (free) by the Pena Pivico rock climbing wall
Parked for the night (free) outside of the Jamanco hot springs in Papallacta

The reason we spent some money on camping is because I wanted to check out a few safe options for Maya and me to stay during Mark’s 2.5-week absence. In the end, I decided to return to the property of friends Graham and Amalia in Ibarra, where I’m currently typing this. Mark left on June 11th.

Mark, Maya, and I stayed here, with Graham, wife Amalia, daughter Leah, and grandma Ada for five nights and were invited back. This is my current location.
Lots of doggies at Graham’s place in Ibarra
Beautiful property at Graham’s
Night view from Graham’s place
Camped for one night at Cascada de Peguche in Otavalo ($1)
Checking out The Garden campground in Ibarra ($6 per person per night) – too noisy
We were camped for one night just outside the Oyacatchi hot springs ($1 for parking)
Checking out Fernando and Evelyn’s place in Puembo to potentially stay when Mark left. I really liked it here as well.

Despite trying our best to not eat out (cooking and doing dishes every single day does get old, though), we kept sightseeing without worrying too much about the cost. In Colombia, we paid $9 for the cable car (teleférico) from Santuario de Las Lajas back up to the parking lot.

Goofy photo at Las Lajas
Taking the cable car back up the hill to Thirsty Bella
We are being followed!

In Ecuador, we soaked in four (!) hot springs (termales) for $42 in total, paid $5 for road access into Cayambe-Coca National Park, and visited the solar clock and museum ($5) on the equator. The following photos are just a sampling, blog posts about all these attractions will follow later this month.

Hot springs at Grutas de La Paz ($2/per person)
Grutas de La Paz; an inspirational site
The Chachimbiro hot springs were fancy at $7/person
Nice pools to soak in at the Chachimbiro hot springs, my favorite ones.
Crossing the equator in Ecuador ($5/per person to visit the solar clock & museum)
The equator museum wants to change the orientation of globes and maps.
We didn’t visit the El Pisque hot springs and this is why…
Oyacatchi hot springs
Maya wanted to be part of the fun.
For $5 (“road tax”) you are allowed access into the Cayambe-Coca National Park, but only from the north.
Jamanco hot springs

We have been hanging out with friends in May so needed to make sure we had wine, beer, and rum. Also, before crossing into Ecuador, we topped up our propane tank as this is cheaper and more convenient in Colombia. The rest of the utilities category went to internet. Claro is the biggest cell and data provider here as well, but the plans are pricier than north of the border. Somehow, we still manage to spend around $30 a month, which is alright. The price is roughly $1 per 1GB of data.

Mark’s new alpaca sweater
Lots of clothes to choose from
Our new blanket is tested and approved by Maya at the Airbnb

The indigenous town of Otavalo reputedly has the biggest handicraft market in South America on Saturdays. Our trio visited on Sunday – we are not fans of crowded places – and Mark bought two pretty sweaters, one synthetic and one made of alpaca wool, for $32. At an artisanal market in Quito we finally bought an alpaca blanket for our bed after using a crappy fleece one from Walmart for six years. It was a tough bargain at $23.

Of course, I have to try “everything,” including forcha…
I did not like it!
A sad day – Mark finished the maple syrup we’d brought from the US
Homecooked hamburger with roasted potatoes
Another tasty and varied dinner at home
My treat in Otavalo: a fruit cocktail with ice cream, whipped cream, and a wafer for $1!

Our drinking and dining out expenses were ridiculously low. We thought there would be a spike during our time with friends in Quito, but they were super generous to treat us to a fancy dinner the first night, and on the second night we cooked and ate in the house we rented. If there would be a bakery category, however, you’d be surprised at how costly it gets.

Being served at the Oyacatchi bakery by a young girl
I found some good pastries in Quito and surroundings
Amazing steak dinner for our friends
Lovely evening out with friends in Quito – and the food and views were delicious

And that’s a wrap for May 2023, totaling $652. I doubt we will ever be able to match that amount, but we might as well try. Once in a while…

May 2023 Overview:

Groceries:

Car (fuel:$101; maintenance: $62; tolls:$5):

Accommodation (Airbnb Quito: $66; camping: $15):

Entertainment (cable car, hot springs, road, equator):

Alcohol:

Utilities (internet: $34; propane: $5):

Clothing:

Household:

Drinking out:

Dining out:

 

TOTAL:

 

$179

$168

$81

$61

$49

$39

$32

$25

$12

$6

———

$ 652

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

The Trampoline of Death in Colombia – A Road Block in Mocoa & Visuals of This Notorious Ride

June 2, 2023 / / 47 Comments

El Trampolin de La Muerte (the Trampoline of Death) in Southern Colombia connects the city of Mocoa with the town of San Francisco.

From Mocoa to San Francisco
Trampoline of Death road

Before we even reached this notorious route, we had to deal with bad roads, crazy drivers, more landslides…

(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Heavy load
The small bags on the sides of the car contain live chickens
Many potholes
Being passed before a curve is common practice in Colombia.
Roadwork – “siga” means “go”
Congested area
Landslide 1
Landslide 2
Landslide 3

…and one other giant obstacle: a road block with miles of backed-up traffic that had been there for days.

Backed-up traffic in Mocoa
Walking the multiple-mile line of traffic, mostly semi trucks
The truck drivers have been here a while…
A bus had to get towed

After waiting in a fuel station for five hours, one of the protesters took pity on us and guided us through the blockade. It was a slightly unnerving but peaceful experience.

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