Porto, the Pearl of Portugal 

Most people who visit Porto really like it, so I did have a level of expectation about it. Usually, that’s not a good thing and we try to avoid it, but … Porto didn’t disappoint. And I liked it better than Lisbon.

Quick stop in Lisbon

Our “big adventure” started on April 4th, when our easy travels by rental car came to an end. The logistics from this day on – how do we get to Belgium with Maya without a car? – had been weighing on us and a lot of research, planning, and reserving had recently become a part of our lives. None of which we normally do.

After the 2.5-hour drive from our last rental house in Cuba with our already vacuumed car, Mark dropped Maya, me, and our five pieces of luggage off at the Oriente train station in Lisbon, before removing the last of Maya’s hairs with a lint roller. We had heard that there are heavy fines when you return a rental car with dog hair. 

Maya and I sat on a blanket outside the station – and were almost reprimanded by security guards as being homeless loiterers (because that’s what this scene might have looked like; and in a way, we were) – and waited for Mark for an hour and a half. Luckily, returning the Seat rental car after nine weeks wasn’t an issue.

Then, all of us had to wait for another four hours (because we booked the cheapest train fare) before we could hop aboard for the 3.5-hour journey to Porto. Mark and I took turns staying with Maya and the luggage, when the other person stretched their legs.

The train ride went relatively smoothly, despite us not having picked good seats – this was our first experience on a train with a dog and Maya’s first train trip as well – and our dog having to be muzzled.

Porto

The three of us took a cab from the Campanhã train station to our rental accommodation in the Bonfim district and we are glad we did as it would have been a long, uphill walk with quite a bit of luggage.

Again, we had picked an interesting apartment. We mostly liked it but there were some oddities, like having the shower stall in the actual bedroom and the toilet in a closet. Is that where the European term WC – Water Closet – comes from?

We did get used to these quirks when we figured out that “backing into” the toilet closet after pulling our pants down and bending over was the easiest way to take care of business. The kitchen was inadequate for longer stays, but being here for only four nights worked just fine. And, as always, the walls were thin.

Since we had arrived quite late that first evening, we decided to grab a fast meal at a vegan place nearby. Little did we realize that this was a fancy, set-menu experience only. We would have liked to have arrived earlier for such a feast, but we nevertheless indulged in this four-course meal at 9pm! It was a nice surprise to learn that Maya was welcome inside and coddled.

Day one

Our first full day in the city started with a delicious brunch at Tomás Coffee Brunch, something we never do. When we go out, it’s usually for the main meal of the day, at lunch or dinner time. Again, Maya was welcome inside!

In the afternoon, we explored the Bolhão (only a few minutes “down the road”) and Ribeira districts on a self-guided walking tour. It brought us past cool churches, buildings, and plazas. We were so happy it was a sunny and warm day.

We gazed at a couple of tiled churches and strolled down towards the water, where we found a surprisingly lively scene, after enjoying the peace in the back alleys of Ribeira, which is located much lower than Bolhão. We had no idea this city was built on a hill too.

This meant we had to walk all the way back up, passing by what I thought was the coolest church, to reach home again.

Day two

On our second day, the weather would turn bad again, so we came up with a loop that would take in sights in the morning and errands in the afternoon. We walked a total of 8.5 miles or 20,000 steps!

First, our route took us downhill to the river viewpoint of Miradouro das Fontainhas. From there, we crossed the Douro River on Ponte do Infante, which offered nice views.

On the other side of the river, you actually enter a different town, Gaia, which is where all the port is made, bottled, and sold. So, ironically, Porto is not from Porto! We had hoped to do a tour and a tasting, but at €50 for two people, we passed. You can buy a lot of bottles of port in the store for that price!

From Miradouro da Serra do Pilar, my favorite viewpoint, we marveled at the incredible views over Porto. This spot is a must-see if you ever visit the city.

Jardim do Morro, right next to it, is also a recommended stop for more views over and along the river, but it was much less impressive than the previous one.

Next, we walked along the boardwalk (Cais de Gaia) to spot many of the port houses and old rabelo boats that used to transport barrels of port. We enjoyed the atmosphere and views, while it was still sunny and warm.

We ate our sandwich lunch in the shade along the Douro River, before crossing it again, this time on the famous Luís I Bridge’s lower level.

Clouds rolled in during the afternoon, as we made the long walk back home, via a detour to pick up extra salmon-based dog food that would hold us over until we met my cousin and her husband in France. They would bring some we’d ordered to Belgium.

We had looked forward to a stop and rest in Jardins do Palácio de Cristal, after a steep climb from the waterfront, but no dogs were allowed, so we kept walking.

That night, we enjoyed another dinner out at a dog-friendly vegan restaurant. Their all-you-can-eat buffet was a good deal at €15 per person.

Day three

On our last full day, it rained. We did look forward to one more splurge: an all-you-can-eat sushi lunch. This time, it took a bit of convincing to have Maya join us under our table, but we succeeded. Not that anyone ever knows there is a dog under our table, whenever we eat out. She always rests on those occasions.

The meal was not only tasty and special, but also affordable at €30 for both of us. This was an order-from-the-menu-as-you-go concept. You write down a list of hot or cold dishes each round with a fine of €7 if you leave food on your plate. Fair enough.

The rest of the day we spent at home, catching up on work, writing, and research. The following two days of crossing northern Spain to reach France would bring a bit more stress. Stay tuned!

Next up: Village life in Southern France

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs? Check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir: