Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – November 2023 (Peru)

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally  and out of pocket where needed and possible.

In November 2023, Mark, dog Maya, and I explored the southern part of Peru in our truck camper, Thirsty Bella. These last two months have been extremely busy and overwhelming, hence my delayed expense report.

We drove a lot, from Arequipa to Colca Canyon and then back to Cusco and the Sacred Valley, to meet family from Belgium. Yet, our car was not the highest expense category, last month. That honor went to Mark’s new computer and a few “accessories.”

A couple of months ago, I wrote that Mark’s laptop (needed daily for work) kept crashing. We were trying to figure out how to send his Surface back to the US and get it replaced under warranty. Being in Peru made this impossible, so we went a different route.

We are very fortunate to have a lot of (accommodating) friends. Two of them returned from the US and had space in their luggage. So, Mark ordered a new laptop, which Rodney and Heather brought back to Cusco in November. My cousin and her husband flew back to Belgium via the US and managed to drop off the broken one at a UPS box in one of the airports. A new Surface should be waiting for us whenever Mark returns to the US on his annual visit. This spare laptop will probably become mine at some point. We also needed a new router, hard drive, and Windows Office key for the arrived laptop.

Some of the packages brought back to us in Cusco by Rodney and Heather

The car category – especially gas – was high again; no surprise there. Gasoline is expensive in Peru, our truck has awful fuel economy (10mpg), and we covered big distances on steep, gravel roads. We also paid for parking a bunch and our friends brought specialty grease back from the US. But no tolls had to be paid.

Another extra expense last month (and this one) was accommodation. My cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, came for a multiple-week vacation to Peru, some of which to the Cusco area. I’d booked hotels and Airbnbs ahead of time and we split the accommodation costs for sixteen nights.

In the meantime, Mark and I left Bella at the Quinta Lala campground in Cusco and we used the truck to travel between sites and hotels. Sometimes, we parked Thirsty in fenced lots in towns, other nights, we put him next to Bella at the campground. Before my family arrived and a few nights afterwards, the three of us stayed at Quinta Lala in our camper.

I will write about the visit from Griet and Wim later, but I will admit now that we didn’t have the best experiences with our lodgings. Every night, there was something that kept us awake, resulting in a couple of very exhausting weeks. We surely missed our home on wheels!

We did our best to save money on other nights, by boondocking (wild camping) in nature, and enjoyed natural hot springs instead of developed termales.

Since we stayed in hotels for one third of last month, we ate out a lot, upping that category. Griet and Wim were very generous visitors, treating for dinner often. Yet, this cost ended up higher than usually.

Which lead to our grocery category being on the low end, at well under $200. We cooked much less, which meant no dishes and less time spent in the kitchen!

Mark, Maya, and I visited Colca Canyon, for which there is an entrance fee of 70 soles (US$20) per person. This boleto turistico (tourist ticket) allows access to condor viewpoints, a hike into the canyon (which we didn’t do), and a few other sites. I’ll write about these excursions in my next blog post.

To save money – and since we had already (briefly) toured the Sacred Valley – we only bought one ten-day tourist ticket for when my family arrived. I joined them at some of the archeological sites (new ones and revisits to others), while Mark did the driving, waiting, and working.

All of us did visit Machu Picchu, the end of November, which lived up to its fame and popularity. For this excursion, Griet and Wim arose early on our first day in Aguas Calientes (“base camp” for MP); Mark and I explored this site on the second morning, while my family watched Maya. More about that later as well.

As always when we have family – and friends – around, the alcohol expense goes up. Good times were had by all, which was a nice change to our regular lifestyle.

Rum tasting at our first Airbnb in Cusco

Our Starlink satellite internet fee is roughly the same every month, based on the exchange rate. We didn’t use it as much these last two months when staying at hotels and the campground, where WiFi was present, but, being back on the road now, we still love this installation and investment!

Not living in our truck camper also meant we needed to use public transportation, like taxis and Uber, quite a bit, especially in Cusco, heading back up the hill to Quinta Lala to pick up the truck or when we were camped there. Plus, the 20-minute bus ride to Machu Picchu (a monopoly) was expensive at US$14 each way. I bought a return ticket and Mark hiked down the steep steps after our visit.

Masses of tour buses for the ride to Machu Picchu

Flea collars went on sale in the US, so we bought one online for Maya and will pick it up in Massachusetts one day. Mark and I went out for drinks with friends and family a few times, Rodney and Heather also brought back an urgently needed 12-volt vacuum cleaner from the US for us (required to dry out our ceiling after fixing a couple of leaking holes in our roof; our old one had died), I bought a Pachamama (Mother Earth) statue at one of the sites (which Griet took back to Belgium for me) and we managed to drop off all our dirty laundry in Arequipa for a decent price.

In conclusion, November was another expensive month for us at over $2,000, because of the extra expenses (Mark’s new computer, our accommodation costs, pricey Machu Picchu, extra transportation, and Maya’s meds). I’d like to say that this month will be better, but it has mainly been an extension of the previous one. Maybe, we will do better next year?

November 2023 Overview:

Computer (new laptop, hard drive, router, Office key);

Car (fuel: $314; maint.: $22; parking: $13):

Accommodation (hotels: $215; camping: $86; storage: $35):

Dining out:

Groceries:

Entertainment (MP: $82; Colca Canyon: $37; ruins: $35):

Alcohol:

Utilities (Starlink internet):

Transportation (taxi & bus MP):

Dog (flea collar):

Drinking out:

Household (12V vacuum cleaner):

Miscellaneous (souvenirs):

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$491

$349

$336

$186

$176

$154

$94

$71

$63

$58

$37

$32

$16

$10

———

$ 2,073

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

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28 Comments

  1. Just over $2000 is not too bad considering!

    • Agreed! We did get a lot in return for that amount. But, in the US our monthly average was $1,300 and one of the reasons we changed continents was to lower our expenses. We will see what the year’s total brings in a little while. But, I still hope to stay around $1,000 per month, in the future.

  2. Hey Liesbet! Yes a little more expensive but small when compared to the adventure of it all! And spending time with friends is ALWAYS good IMHO. Your photos look great too. Did you get a new phone or did I miss reading what happened? At any rate your photos look as good as always. And YES Mark needs a computer (ha! don’t we all?) Loving your adventure and always look forward to your photos. Merry Christmas! and may 2024 be even better! ~Kathy

    • Hi Kathy!

      Thank you for the wonderful comment!

      In a way, we did get “a lot” for that $2,000, but I guess what Mark and I struggled with the most is that we spent twice more money in November than usually, while being less comfortable. We had hoped to somehow have “a vacation” by staying in hotels and that didn’t quite work out. Due to the sleepless nights and other lodging inconveniences and to actually receiving more paid work than normal, which is good, of course, but made our time with family even busier.

      About the phone… I have been taking photos with my “old” camera throughout November, ever since my phone was stolen, so that’s what the shots after November 21st have been taken with. Everything from the Cusco and Sacred Valley region. And even Machu Picchu.

      But, there is more to the story, which I haven’t shared yet. Since my birthday coincided with friends returning from Canada, Mark had a surprise delayed B-day gift for me in December… 🙂

      Happy holidays to you and Thom! Wishing you many new travels and adventures without the western consumerism.

  3. Your entire month’s expenses is less than my mortgage! Yikes! Fun times, Liesbet.

  4. still very reasonable for for all of those experiences and adventure. and so much lower than here

    • Hi Beth,

      I assume “here” is a western country? We often wonder if we could ever survive again in a place like the US or Europe. Not on the freelance income we have.

      I think a camper is the only way for us to explore the world – and our own countries – at the moment. That being said, though, our monthly average during seven years in North America was $1,300, which is why we are not so happy with these last months’ expenses.

  5. Hi Liesbet, Bolivia and Argentina may be less expensive than Peru if you’re heading to those countries. Merry Christmas to you, Mark and Maya!

  6. $2000 may seem like a lot compared to your usual expenses, but it sounds as though you and your family got quite a bit of enjoyment out of the extra splurge. Merry Christmas! 🙂

    • Hello Diane!

      Merry Christmas to you and your husband! From Bolivia. 🙂

      We had a super busy month with quite a few splurges with that $2,000, but we also learned a few lessons. 🙂 At the end of the day, not considering the extra expenses for the computer, etc. we “only” went a few hundred dollars over budget. We will survive!

  7. Hi, Liesbet – Thank you for sharing this with us. Despite November being a more expensive than usual month, you did get a lot in return for that amount. Wishing you, Mark and Maya a happy holiday and a wonderful new year ahead!

    • Hello Donna!

      You’re right about the things we got (to do) for those $2,000, but we really ought to be spending less than what we did in North America. It’s one of the reasons we switched continents! Yet, the only way to actually save money is by slowing down and sitting in the same spot for longer periods of time. Meaning: not drive.

      Thank you for the lovely holiday wishes! We hope you and Richard enjoy this festive period and have a cozy Christmas and an exciting New Year! I hope your husband is recovering well and that you are able to plan your next getaway soon.

  8. petespringerauthor

    December 24, 2023 at 00:55

    Yoiur highest month ever is a normal month for most of the rest of us. You’ve done remarkably well historically.

    • Haha, Pete. I really don’t want to be spending as much as someone in a western country. That defeats one of the purposes of roaming about developing nations. We will see how next year shapes up! The challenges of being here have to reap some rewards…

  9. Any month that includes wonderful scenery (Machu Picchu!), good food, and friends can’t be that bad even if the expenses peak a little. Well done–and Merry Christmas! 😀

    • Merry Christmas to you and Cliff, dear Marian. May 2024 bring you better health and the same love, friendships, and social connections as all the previous years! Xxx

  10. Well, I’d say you guys did pretty darned good considering your little luxuries and having to cave for a hard drive. I find it’s getting harder each month to say I’ll do better next month when the rising cost of everything just keeps on. Good luck and safe travels, and wishing you both a very Merry Christmas and all good things for the new year my friend. Holiday hugs <3 xx

    • Hi Debby,

      I hear you! We should probably stop saying that we will do better, financially, the next month. There are always unexpected expenses and events that are out of our control. That being said, we really hope to hover around $1,000 a month in 2024.

      I hope your holiday season was uneventful, pleasant, and somewhat fun. May 2024 bring you writing pleasure and an absence of costumer support related issues. I also hope you will make it to Mexico – or somewhere else warm – this winter and wish you continued support and friendship from the people you care about! xox

      • Hello my lovely. Thank you so kindly for your warm well wishes. I’m glad the holiday season has passed and time to make plans for the new year. And yes, I recently put out a post of a grey outline of my plans, and yes, I will be going to PV mid FEb for a month! Strange how it all came together as I thought by December 2023 it wasn’t going to happen.
        As for your budgeting, it’s always important to have goals to try to keep finances in line, but as the price of everything goes up, and like you said, there’s always a surprise cost that pops up, we can only do our best. Wishing you both a safe and beautiful 2024! Hugs <3 xxx

        • Thank you for the lovely wishes, Debby! Shortly after I sent you my best for 2024, I read your update and plans for this year. Exciting news about your Mexico trip, on which you – hopefully – will never feel alone! <3 I guess you trusted the universe, and … voila!

          Regarding our “crazy” spending the last few months, we found a nice solution for January… We are staying put for a month, running a cozy campground in La Paz, Bolivia: no driving means no fuel costs, life is cheaper in this country than in Peru, and we are settled in one spot while we work, so we save instead of spend. Win - win. Hopefully, we can “catch up” a bit with lower expenses this month. 🙂

          • Hi Liesbet. Thanks so much for the Mexico kudos. Yes, I am learning to let go a bit and trust. Apparently, it paid off. 🙂 And yay, glad to hear you’re parked for awhile and can catch your breath for a minute and keep down the expenses. I should look forward to your next monthly expense to see just how well you’ve done. Hugs and enjoy. <3 xx

            • Well, the next expense report will be for December, which was still a bad month. But, January will be much better!! We hope. 🙂

  11. 215 dollars for 16 days is amazing. We are spending much more than that in CDMX, but we are also “blowing it out,” having a real vacation, and not worrying about money too much. But also I think prices are much lower in Cusco for comparable accommodations.

    I know $2000 is alot for you but considering all your eating out, your accommodations expense, and new stuff, it is still really good. I’ve had people think that Greg and I live so cheap when we spend around $2000 a month.

    Friends are such great resources in the traveling world. I’m glad that Rodney and Heather could help you out. It is amazing that a chance encounter on a beach could lead to friends on another continent.

    I would have never thought about someone being able to mail something from an airport in the US. Great idea! Do you know there are Facebook groups for “mules” to bring things back and forth from the US? Some charge money but some are free, I follow a Fred one for Ecuador. When we finally get to go to South America, I hope to offer to bring something to someone.

    I hope Bolivia is treating you well!

    • And I just looked through your pics. I guess we need to ask if the toilets have seats when booking an Airbnb in Cusco.

      • Hi Duwan,

        The Airbnbs all have had toilet seats. 🙂 It was one of the hotels that surprised us with its bare toilet ring. That being said, public restrooms and local restaurants in Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia rarely have toilet seats on the bowls. The upscale places, of course, are better.

    • Hi Duwan,

      Bolivia is treating us well, so far! 🙂 The people are much friendlier than in Peru, the drivers a little less crazy, and the littering a tiny bit better as well.

      I think life would be less stressful and our goals more realistic, if we aim for average expenses of US$2,000 a month. But, that would be too easy! 🙂 I think we should be able to make half that if we can have a “normal” month in a cheaper country, where the fuel is affordable. Like Colombia and Ecuador. But, I have no idea where this will happen again. Reaching our US average of $1,300 is probably more feasible.

      Our friends have been amazing, helpful, and generous. Who would have guessed, when we all met Rodney in Baja two years ago, that we would reconnect in South America? He had just decided to keep going back then. Poor Dixie is missed, though. They have decided not to make Ushuaia this winter, so we hope to run into them again later this year.

      Yes, we have heard about the “mule” Facebook groups, but are not part of any yet. Enough group participation already. 🙂 We had actually hoped you two could bring a few things to Cusco, if everything would have worked out and you could have stuck to plan… I’m sure you’ll be able to help someone once you make your way down here.

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